It varies when it comes on also. It may come on right as ball one starts or later during the ball. And even waits till ball 2.

Not often you get a chance to win a System 80B game and support a great cause at the same time! Project Pinball is raffling a Gottlieb Rock. Lets get this sold out!

https://projectpinball.rallyup.com/rock-pinballmachineraffle/Campaign/Details

My point was that the tilt function is controlled by the MPU, it's not a direct connection from tilt switch to relay. if the MPU already thinks the game is tilted, you can't bypass that by removing wires.

This would only prove that the tilt signal is not coming from those two tilt switches. The problem is now isolated to the MPU, an edge connection, or the wiring.

Unless....

What about the tilt switch under the playfield? I don't know the official name, but there's a tilt switch on the underside of the playfield that is a leaf switch with a small weight on the end. If you move the machine, the weight jiggles the leaf back & forth where it makes contact if it's jiggling too hard.

My Volcano has three tilt switches in parallel. If any one these three activate, it will tilt:

• Plumb bob
• Ball in track
• Jiggling leaf switch

Unfortunately it appears the problem lies with the MPU. As a last resort, I took my working MPU from my Haunted House pinball machine and swapped it into the Volcano. The green button on the right works as is should >>> stops the motor and running light (upper left drop targets) for the skill shot, and freezes the crater light when trying to lock a ball for multi ball. The tilt issue is no longer present.

So….can this be repaired? Can switch matrix issues be corrected? Or am I screwed and the MPU is faulty, and I will need a replacement?

Count down has blown the 1amp fuse next to the transformer Everything was working good before the fuse blew but now there is zeros in all 4 displays and nothing in the credit display can not start a game and all three boards are brand new.
Raff

It sounds to me like the issues you are having are on "Return 6". I don't have the schematics to see if you've got any other switches on that return.
Return 6 goes to Z14 (7400) on the MPU and then to U4.

I suggest to check/replace Z14.

Have you contacted him yet? Sounds like you should send it back to make it right.

Since game boots and plays otherwise, it's probably just a bad logic chip or two, which are not difficult to obtain. These can be easily tested with a $15 logic probe and/or a digital multi-meter with diode mode.

Like Regne said, Return 6 is common to Tilt (SW 46) and the Right Shooter Guide button (SW 56). This goes through pin 16 on A1-J6 to the MPU switch matrix and through chip Z14 (7400).

The other switches that are also on Return 6:

• Ball-save, Left outlane rollover (SW 06)
• Left return rollover (SW 16)
• Kicking target (SW 26)
• Spot target (SW 36)

I also would not rule out Z15 (or Z12?); speaking from personal experience, Z15 can have a downstream affect on any part of the switch matrix. Although, you'd probably have a few more things going wrong if there was a bad gate in Z15.

switch matrix

Here's a thread from when I blew up my switch matrix with 38 volts.

Actually the Tilt(SW 46) and right shooter guide (SW 56) return comes into MPU on A1J5-8 and ties to A1J6-16 on board (where sparky672 has it circled.)

The "MPU switch matrix" he is referring to in this case means the operator selectable switches (dip switches on MPU) not to be confused with the switch matrix which consists of strobes, returns, playfield switches, and diode boards on the bottom of playfield)

The issue you are having is with R6 on the switch matrix.

Yes. The MPU is definitely repairable. Swap out Z14.

Good point. I got my information from the schematic, which shows a direct connection. Keep in mind that the single SW-46 N.O. switch symbol on this page actually represents three separate tilt switches in parallel; the one tilt switch under the playfield probably does connect directly to A1-J6.

IMG_9293 (resized).JPG

Although, I recognize Gottlieb's diagrams sometimes have mistakes and omissions. The cabinet diagram does show the A1-J5 connection for the cabinet side switches.

Is there a tutorial, link, or information on how to use a logic probe and check the pins on this Z14 integrated circuit (IC) and what to look for?

I have been in this hobby for (4) years now, and have learned a lot, but there is a lot I need to learn yet…especially with electronics.

Yes I reached out to home this afternoon. He stated that it is possible that something in the game damaged the switch matrix. Of may be concern is that something may have shorted to high voltage, such as kicking targets and the coin drop switches.

With this possible revelation, is there anything else that anyone has seen or experienced >>> high voltage short that would damage the switch matrix? Is there any other components that I should check as well?

sparky672 and REGNE

I cannot thank you guys enough for taking the time to post up pictures, diagrams, information, and insights. I am writing down and recording all this great information for future reference.

I would definitely open up the machine and check all the wiring to see if you can find any wires that may have shorted against something they shouldn't have.

I think it's in the PinWiki... how to use a logic probe...

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Logic_Probes

How to check a logic chip with a DMM in diode mode...

Testing 74xx series logic chips with a DMM in diode mode is basically... just put the red lead on ground pin and then measure each gate with the black lead. You should read something around 0.7 volts or so. Since the chip is usually a package of several identical gates, all gate outputs should read similarly, and gate inputs might read different than outputs, but they'll also all read similarly to each other. If you get an oddball reading, the gate is probably bad and the chip needs replacing. Test can be done with chip in circuit, but test is not definitive; it's just a possible clue. I've seen a couple bad chips pass this test... but I've never seen a good chip fail this test.

BTW - you misattributed my quote to the wrong user. I am the one who said "Since game boots and plays otherwise, it's probably just a bad logic chip..."

I pulled off one side of my spinner and set it right next to a slingshot switch leaving the spinner spring attached. Then I turned on my game. The spinner shorted out the slingshot switch which is 38 volts. Since the spinner spring is attached to a 5 volt scoring switch, I sent 38 volts straight into the MPU switch matrix and blew up Z14 and Z15. The MPU would not boot correctly (went straight into tilt mode) making troubleshooting very difficult. That's not the worst part... the absolute worst part was not knowing why the game wasn't working. While laying in bed, I finally remembered that I set the spinner next to the slingshot switch; then it was 1000% easier to find and fix the problem. See thread below...

YES! Exactly this. From my previous message: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-system-80-i-blew-it

I would say RIOT chip U4, but again, your game boots and plays so this is probably fine.

Alright fellows...put your thinking caps on...
I have a Touchdown that turns on but only slightly.
Backbox lights and only 1 light in each of the playfield groupings (pass, yard marker, shoot again, the O and the B in FootBall) lights.
The sound goes through the different sounds but the game never really starts.
I checked all the contacts and reseated all the connections.
Here is were I scratched my head.
I checked all the TP on the power supply board...they were all DOUBLE what they should have been!!
The 60v test point was putting out 125v...what..and yes I read the meter correctly.
I even checked the outlet..it was only 121.
Any thoughts or previous experience?

I have the opportunity to scoop up a nice shape Mars God of War locally. Can anyone speak to how it holds up in home use, good rules for play over and over etc? Its getting harder and harder to sell and trade locally, so if I grab it, I'd be buying it for myself for a while and not to flip or trade.

FlipperFanatic -
Review Pinwiki - I seem to remember something about measuring the power supplies. Something about ground not being the same reference when measuring voltages.

Have you done the ground mods ? Always start with the ground mods.

Just brought home a non-working Bad Girls! I have a Sys1 Buck Rogers and a Sys80 2nd Gen Volcano so I am familiar with the usual capacitor replacements and ground mods. Still, time to do a review on this 99 page thread before getting started ...

20211012_204546_HDR (resized).jpg

I just rebuilt a power supply for Buck Rogers and got my game running. First, disconnect all the plugs from the power board. Be careful with the one on the bottom since you could plug it in upside down when reconnecting!

On AC check the voltages at the bottom connector. There is no ground involved. If they are ok then power off the game and plug in that bottom connector. Then check your voltages at the outputs of the power supply on DC using the ground reference on the top connector. The 5v should be at 5v or just a small amount over like 5.1v using the control on the upper left. Only make small adjustments. If you turn it too fast or that control is dirty it could kick in the crowbar circuit clamping down on the 5v and you have to turn off the game to reset.

For the two display voltages those use the separate ground on the connector on the right. That is adjusted by the upper right.

There are also some good YouTube videos on the system 1 power supply and testing.

Lucky!

I created a checklist with this procedure. Pm me an email address and I'll send you a link to it.

So a little update...new power supply placed..still getting double voltage.
The 62v TP is putting out 130+..
Anybody have any ideas of where to start.
I do not have the manual... it's in the mail.

What are you using for a ground? The meter is set to DC - correct?

Put a 50 watt light bulb (load) on the output and read the voltage.

I may have missed it but what are the voltages going into the power board?

System 80B Diamond Lady Ball save kick back fine tuning.
cant get the kick back to work 100% seems worse when you get a slow ball down the outlane
kick back plunger is to slow to react or timing is out,
tried different gap sizes on the leaf switch with mixed results.
anyone done a microswitch mod on this or have any tips.

TIA

Mines a bitch too. But I’m missing a rubber gasket that’s in the back end of the bracket that helps keep the plunger straight so I get intermittent weak kicks backs. It’s unobtainable, so I’ve just had to make due with a nice clean mech and give the game a little nudge to get the ball back into play.

I suggest taking the mech apart and cleaning throughly, replace the sleeve, and see if it improves. But yeah, it shouldn’t register until the ball has almost made it all the way to the bottom of the switch actuator.

I had a weird one with my Robowar, it would randomly reset during a game. All voltages checked out, the mpu had been repaired with new riot chips by the previous owner.

After much checking I narrowed the fault down to the spinner, every so often when you hit the spinner it would reset. I guess a RIOT chip for the switch matrix was dodgy, I have been told there are poor quality chips for sale. Anyway I bought a new mpu from myPinballs.com (Jim) and all is good.

I also bought one from Jim when I recently picked up a Gold Wings even though it didn’t need one. Much better mpu board, fit and forget!

If anyone wants to add music, etc. to their older Gottlieb. This is a Gottlieb Rock using a WAV trigger card. Just connect the front two buttons and turn your older game into a jukebox. Lots of potential with this card to customize the sounds on your game.

Uses SD card to store the WAV tracks that can be activated with 16 triggers on the card. When the switch is closed, the WAV track plays. Multiple sounds/songs can be added to each trigger.

2E485D09-514C-4DF8-9DB9-CB69915CE83E (resized).jpeg87FD6BDE-0D2B-4CF3-9A17-523D0593D0F7 (resized).jpeg

Cool idea. Do you just turn down the existing sound, or do you have a custom sound rom with the BG music cut out?

I just turn down the existing sound.

I put sound into a 1956 rifle game with the wav trigger.
Nice little rig.

Hey fellow volcano owners, my game does attract sound on 4 min intervals or whatever the longest setting is.
BUT, once you play a game, the lava sound plays over and over.
Has done this since i bought it.
Do other volcanos do this?

What is the "lava sound"? Is that the same as the volcano eruption sound? Can you post a video of this?

Its that rumbling and yes i think it is the multiball sound effect.
I cannot post a video because i do not know how to post it on you tube.
Not really concerned, just wanted to know if it is normal. Honestly, if it is not a dip switch, i have no intention of fixing it.

Solved...shittty meter..got my backup... everything is golden power wise.

Devil's Dare keeps blowing fuse 13 after a few games or about 10 minutes.
Right drop bank resets after new fuse but quits after only a few rounds.
Ohms on coil are correct per the manual.
Thinking heat issue?

Solenoid 6 is the right bank.
That is controlled by transistor Q64.

16343974565705938836411576654132 (resized).jpg

163439764212857615379998428835 (resized).jpg

This is transistor Q64.
How often do they go?
How is it checked?

IMG_20211016_113357_01 (resized).jpg

The eruption sound is long and only when multi-ball starts and when the game is over. However, there is a shorter rumble or explosion sound that slowly repeats in the background as you play, so maybe that's the one you're talking about.

This guy posted a Volcano video a few days ago but it's kinda hard to hear because he's talking over it non-stop.

Since the sounds are triggered through the driver board, it's likely a super easy thing to troubleshoot and fix if one sound was stuck.

I did follow the schematic and it appears the DB-1 on pin 12 of the U6 spider chip is stuck high. I hoped that the 6.8k pull down resistor at R87 was open but that checks out ok.

Looks like I need a replacement U6 spider chip from a donor board. The one on mine is a 10788EB

I can see that 4 of the other spider chips had been resoldered or replaced. As far as I can tell it all works except for that stuck line for the lower bit of data for the 3rd and 4th displays.

Anyone have a scrap system 1 board with that spider chip on it? It is far away from the battery so if you have a really trashed board that chips could still be good.

This board is so close it would be nice to save it.

You are right, he talks too much to hear the background.

This is a 2N3055 power transistor. They are used to drive “larger” devices such as 4-5 bank drop target coils, etc. They do go bad, and in some cases could get so hot that they turn the PCB board black around the transistor.

This is a direct quote from Pinwiki:

To test, set your digital multimeter (DMM) to diode mode and perform the following steps:

NPN TO-3 package (2N3055, 2N6057, 2N6059, MJ10000)

Place the black lead of your DMM on the metal case of the transistor
Probe each of the legs with the red lead
.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading
Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor

Thanks.. I'll check that asap.

Try this. My Volcano that I am playing really poorly while not talking at all...

That background sound never stops at the end of a game. Sounds like a blast furnace.

Can I check while still in the board?
If it is bad opinion that I change all at once?!