Alien Star
Gottlieb, 1984
Arena
Gottlieb, 1987
Asteroid Annie and the Aliens
Gottlieb, 1980
Bad Girls
Gottlieb, 1988
Big House
Gottlieb, 1989
Black Hole
Gottlieb, 1981
Bone Busters Inc.
Gottlieb, 1989
Bounty Hunter
Gottlieb, 1985Upgraded my Gold Wings yesterday with a new MPU and 5v board from myPinballs and he also had the correct siren which he sold me as mine was the wrong one and sounded a bit high pitched. Can now feel the pin vibrate with the gold one
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Quoted from jim5six:Hopefully I dont get shot for this but I had to save this Alien Star. Or as I'm calling it now "Alien Scar"! The playfield was too bad to save so I decided to sand it down to a flat surface and then cleared it. I figured I'd get it all working that way when/if they repop the playfield I'll be ready. I actually like how it turned out and I am happy to have a playing game that I had been looking for for a very long time. Next up is Ice Fever. I'm using rubber rings I had on hand so thats a little hodge podge at the moment and PBResourse sent me the wrong caps but other than that its done for now.
-Jim
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This actually looks awesome.
Quoted from jim5six:Hopefully I dont get shot for this but I had to save this Alien Star. Or as I'm calling it now "Alien Scar"! The playfield was too bad to save so I decided to sand it down to a flat surface and then cleared it. I figured I'd get it all working that way when/if they repop the playfield I'll be ready. I actually like how it turned out and I am happy to have a playing game that I had been looking for for a very long time. Next up is Ice Fever. I'm using rubber rings I had on hand so thats a little hodge podge at the moment and PBResourse sent me the wrong caps but other than that its done for now.
-Jim
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Nice Jim! glad you finally got one. Ice Fever too? I may have to come visit sometime.
Quoted from sparky672:After cleaning off the old glue and tape residue with denatured alcohol, I just use a dime-size glob of clear silicone adhesive under the top two corners. It sticks well but can still be popped loose if ever needed. The main advantage is that it keeps a small gap behind the glass while still making really good contact over a potentially uneven, rough, or warped surface, and you have quite a bit of time to adjust position if needed before it sets up.
With tape, I always worry about failure with age, heat, or not making enough initial contact. And if the tape is too good (I actually have some that sticks as well as super-glue) you're never removing that display without breaking the PCB or the glass.
FWIW, I have original display boards with serial numbers that match my game, and with the silicone method, over the years I have been able to replace the glass tubes as needed without trouble.
Thank you for the responses. I actually considered both ideas, i.e. something from 3M or using silicone adhesive. I think I may actually try the silicone, because you don't have to worry about the thickness of the tape material letting the glass lay flat. Also it's more forgiving and flexible.
Calling on all System 80 gurus, enthusiasts, experts, or anyone that can lend some technical help and advice. I am bringing a 1981 Volcano back from the dead and restoring it to add to my Gottlieb collection. I am so close to completion and playing the machine, that it is now driving me crazy.
I have now hit a road block and wall, and I am stumped and don’t know where to continue with my troubleshooting. The machine was energized, and booted when start button was depressed. Started checking all kickers, pop bumpers, slingshots, switches, etc. and found the right side drop target bank had an issue. Found the drive transistor (2N3055) was shorted, so replaced it along with a new solenoid coil. HOWEVER, I did not check the position of the diode and it was backwards. After the drop target reset would not reset, with new coil, I found my mistake and and corrected it. The drive transistor and pre-transistor are both good.
Sorry for the long, back history but here is the current situation:
1). When turned ON, the pinball boots and I have full attract mode and all displays. The high score to date also cycles as normal.
2.) At the start up THUNK (solenoids), the ball release energizes and allows the 1st ball to roll into the shoot ( before any start button is depressed).
3.) When START button is depressed, the outhole kicks the last ball into the holding shoot, BUT no ball release or anything else. The 1st player is flashing “0” as the display is showing game ready, BUT there is no action:
• no flippers
• no rollovers, switches, slingshots, etc.
• only general illumination lighting with a couple of insert lights that stay on
• the pinball seems to be “ dead “
Does anyone have any insight, knowledge, or guidance of what the problem may be? Any leads or direction where to look? I appreciate any help or assistance. Thank you all.
Quoted from chuckwurt:Just plunge that ball that gets released at start up and let it drain. Does the game work now?
No sir.
The ball release premature “firing” was occurring when I was able to start up a game and performed testing. When the premature ball was returned to the drain, the game would run as normal.
However, now that the game seems “dead”, despite the Player 1 display appearing ready, when the premature ball is returned to the drain, the game will kick the ball from outhole up into holding trough. But then all (3) balls just sit there.
Quoted from Snowtrooper:No sir.
The ball release premature “firing” was occurring when I was able to start up a game and performed testing. When the premature ball was returned to the drain, the game would run as normal.
However, now that the game seems “dead”, despite the Player 1 display appearing ready, when the premature ball is returned to the drain, the game will kick the ball from outhole up into holding trough. But then all (3) balls just sit there.
Just to confirm. Make sure all balls are in the drain before hitting start. Still have issues?
Quoted from chuckwurt:Just to confirm. Make sure all balls are in the drain before hitting start. Still have issues?
Yes.
Confirmation of all (3) balls in the trough. Typical (3) ball setup in Gottlieb System 80 (Black Hole, Mars, Devil’s Dare, etc.) where there is two (2) balls in the trough (one at ball release, one adjacent, and one in the out hole drain >>> No change!
All switches were checked as well and are good (2 trough switches and drain outhole).
Quoted from jim5six:Or as I'm calling it now "Alien Scar"!
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Very fitting name. Looks cool. I'd buy that one and attempt to build one if you ever got a new playfield.
Cheers!
Quoted from Snowtrooper:Yes.
Confirmation of all (3) balls in the trough. Typical (3) ball setup in Gottlieb System 80 (Black Hole, Mars, Devil’s Dare, etc.) where there is two (2) balls in the trough (one at ball release, one adjacent, and one in the out hole drain >>> No change!
All switches were checked as well and are good (2 trough switches and drain outhole).
Weird. The only times I’ve seen the behavior you describe, is when all the balls are not in the trough when you hit start.
Quoted from chuckwurt:Weird. The only times I’ve seen the behavior you describe, is when all the balls are not in the trough when you hit start.
Agreed.
I am practically banging my head against the wall, and I am so frustrated. So close….
UPDATE:
As you stated, all (3) balls have to be in the trough. Looks like the outhole kicks the last ball into the trough at the draining of your the last ball. As soon as I placed all 3 balls in the trough, it fired right up. Need to make a couple small adjustments. Thanks for the tip and persistence to keep looking at trough.
Now to figure why the ball release is prematurely activating upon first powering up / turning on the unit. In addition, I am now getting TILT…. TILT …TiLT…. speech at times. Also making a punch list of small tweaks and fine tuning.
Quoted from Lostcause:Upgraded my Gold Wings yesterday with a new MPU and 5v board from myPinballs and he also had the correct siren which he sold me as mine was the wrong one and sounded a bit high pitched. Can now feel the pin vibrate with the gold one
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Gold Wings had 2-3 factory sirens in OEM games....I think they had purchased whatever they could get ahold of at the time. The gold ones look like CHP motorcycle sirens.
Quoted from JodyG:Gold Wings had 2-3 factory sirens in OEM games....I think they had purchased whatever they could get ahold of at the time. The gold ones look like CHP motorcycle sirens.
Yes I’ve heard TNT say that on a video but the gold one looks right and sounds much nicer, has a deeper tone and less annoying.
Maybe I should hook the other one up as a door bell
Quoted from Lostcause:Yes I’ve heard TNT say that on a video but the gold one looks right and sounds much nicer, has a deeper tone and less annoying.
Maybe I should hook the other one up as a door bell
I had a gold unit, always cracked me up when it lit off.
Quoted from jim5six:Hopefully I dont get shot for this but I had to save this Alien Star. Or as I'm calling it now "Alien Scar"! The playfield was too bad to save so I decided to sand it down to a flat surface and then cleared it. I figured I'd get it all working that way when/if they repop the playfield I'll be ready. I actually like how it turned out and I am happy to have a playing game that I had been looking for for a very long time. Next up is Ice Fever. I'm using rubber rings I had on hand so thats a little hodge podge at the moment and PBResourse sent me the wrong caps but other than that its done for now.
-Jim
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I dig it.
Quoted from gdonovan:I had a gold unit, always cracked me up when it lit off.
I have never heard any machine with a siren like that, who has a video of that thing going off ??
Quoted from Snowtrooper:Calling on all System 80 gurus, enthusiasts, experts, or anyone that can lend some technical help and advice. I am bringing a 1981 Volcano back from the dead and restoring it to add to my Gottlieb collection. I am so close to completion and playing the machine, that it is now driving me crazy.
I have now hit a road block and wall, and I am stumped and don’t know where to continue with my troubleshooting. The machine was energized, and booted when start button was depressed. Started checking all kickers, pop bumpers, slingshots, switches, etc. and found the right side drop target bank had an issue. Found the drive transistor (2N3055) was shorted, so replaced it along with a new solenoid coil. HOWEVER, I did not check the position of the diode and it was backwards. After the drop target reset would not reset, with new coil, I found my mistake and and corrected it. The drive transistor and pre-transistor are both good.
Sorry for the long, back history but here is the current situation:
1). When turned ON, the pinball boots and I have full attract mode and all displays. The high score to date also cycles as normal.
2.) At the start up THUNK (solenoids), the ball release energizes and allows the 1st ball to roll into the shoot ( before any start button is depressed).
3.) When START button is depressed, the outhole kicks the last ball into the holding shoot, BUT no ball release or anything else. The 1st player is flashing “0” as the display is showing game ready, BUT there is no action:
• no flippers
• no rollovers, switches, slingshots, etc.
• only general illumination lighting with a couple of insert lights that stay on
• the pinball seems to be “ dead “
Does anyone have any insight, knowledge, or guidance of what the problem may be? Any leads or direction where to look? I appreciate any help or assistance. Thank you all.
"Q" is the Game Over relay. It's not working.
I have a Volcano that started doing this exact same thing. I went nuts trying to figure it out... the Q (game over) relay controls power to the flippers, pop bumpers, slingshots, etc. Without the Q, it looks like it's ready to play but no balls get released either. I was seeing Q drop out intermittently during play.
I cannot say exactly which connector because I ended up fixing them all and that issue was fully resolved. However, Q is energized via A3J3, but that might check out fine. Keep in mind that the Driver board is controlled by the MPU board so you might have a connection problem on the data bus.
Check Q relay and see if it's pulled in. You can jumper the switch contacts (NOT the coil!) on Q, which forces power to stay on the playfield, just as a test. Alternatively, you can also hold it in with your finger but it's not as easy to test things this way. Once you know Q is not energizing, you can trace the problem backwards. Don't forget fuses, wiring, etc. Again, if you get to the Driver board and everything still checks out, then your communication between MPU and Driver should be suspected and the data bus connectors cleaned or replaced.
Quoted from gdonovan:I had a gold unit, always cracked me up when it lit off.
I had the gold one as well.
I put a night switch in it to silencecso i could play it after everyone went to bed.
The neighbors could hear it.
Quoted from Raff:Started working on a count down every thing working except pop bumper,left flipper and both sling shots not working.
Raff
For the pop and flippers make sure the switches are clean and the assemblies move freely. Then test the power at coil to make sure it is present. Both of these are direct driven from the switches so as long as the power can flow it should work. There is a switch on the game over relay that supplies power to the coils it's worth checking that too. There is a connector at A6J5 pin 10 that is power for all coils. If the other coils are working this is not it.
There are no slings in countdown
Have an odd one on Excalibur. Using a new pop bumper board, and rebuilt with all new parts, the pop bumper works, but it seems to be firing slow. It’s not weak, just slow. Not sure what could cause that. Switch is gapped really close for extra sensitivity, but not quite getting the pop action I would like up there.
Any thoughts?
Quoted from chuckwurt:Have an odd one on Excalibur. Using a new pop bumper board, and rebuilt with all new parts, the pop bumper works, but it seems to be firing slow. It’s not weak, just slow. Not sure what could cause that. Switch is gapped really close for extra sensitivity, but not quite getting the pop action I would like up there.
Any thoughts?
Any mechanical binding? Need a new sleeve? Maybe the plunger is mushroomed a bit and just filing off the sharp edge will help.
Quoted from Robotworkshop:Any mechanical binding? Need a new sleeve? Maybe the plunger is mushroomed a bit and just filing off the sharp edge will help.
All new parts. Completely rebuilt. Clean as a whistle. No binding.
Quoted from chuckwurt:All new parts. Completely rebuilt. Clean as a whistle. No binding.
Are there multiple pop bumper boards in that game? Have you swapped them to see if it follows the board?
Quoted from Robotworkshop:Are there multiple pop bumper boards in that game? Have you swapped them to see if it follows the board?
One pop bumper. Original board was dead.
I think I’m just going to experiment with a working original pop board and two different aftermarket ones. See if they behave differently at all. I’ll report back.
Quoted from chuckwurt:I think I’m just going to experiment with a working original pop board and two different aftermarket ones. See if they behave differently at all. I’ll report back.
Did you rebuild the board using the guide on Pinwiki?
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#Replacing_the_2N6057_with_a_TIP-102
Many of the early boards had a design flaw that was later changed.
Quoted from FLASHBALL:Did you rebuild the board using the guide on Pinwiki?
No. I used a new board.
Hello Everyone - Just put my Black Light Roller Disco up for sale. 3 owners in 41 years. Super clean!!! PM if interested.
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:Hello Everyone - Just put my Black Light Roller Disco up for sale. 3 owners in 41 years. Super clean!!! PM if interested.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/121935
Looks fantastic. Good luck with the sale!
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:Hello Everyone - Just put my Black Light Roller Disco up for sale. 3 owners in 41 years. Super clean!!! PM if interested.
If you weren't on the other side of the country, I'd be all over this. Looks great.
While they are the biggest pain to work on, I really do like the feel of Sys80 flippers out of any other early SS flipper... Just a thought.
In the final stretch of Volcano restoration and on the verge of declaring it ready to go, but I am working out some last minute items on a punch list. Got the ball trough issue and the ball release issues resolved, now I am trying to diagnose an issue with the shooter guide button (green button) on be right side. This button will stop the shooter guide motor, freeze the crater lights (trying to select the right crater the ball will drop into for multi ball lock), and / or freeze the light in front of the upper left drop targets.
Problem that has arisen is, once the green button is pressed and closes the contacts all these functions occur (as they should), however, the game goes into full TILT mode, including the speech saying tilt….tilt……tilt. The schematics show a “M” set of contacts for the shooter guide motor, but I cannot find where the “M” coil is on the schematics and what activates it. Any ideas out there? Any guidance or help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!!
Quoted from Snowtrooper:The schematics show a “M” set of contacts for the shooter guide motor, but I cannot find where the “M” coil is on the schematics and what activates it. Any ideas out there? Any guidance or help would be greatly appreciated.
Yes, you would think that with an "M" contact, they would show an "M" coil, just like any other schematic. Unfortunately, Gottlieb does not seem to follow the common schematic convention where "X" relay contacts are controlled by the "X" relay coil. (aside: good luck figuring out what coil controls the "Q" relay contacts on page 35... well, that coil is labeled elsewhere as the "Game Over Relay" with no reference whatsoever to "Q". 
)
The "M" relay contacts on page 35 (where motor is also labeled as "M") are controlled by a relay coil labeled "Motor Relay" on page 34...
Motor Relay coil is controlled at pin 25 of A3-J3, which is Q13 (L12) from the Driver board.
Shooter guide switch goes straight to the MPU, and the motor relay is controlled by the Driver via the MPU. It's very straightforward so it seems like you have a wire touching someplace if tilt is simultaneously triggered.
I'm looking at cabinet schematics on page 38. Notice how the shooter guide switch wire is right next to the wire for the tilt switches...
A1-J5, pin 7, one side of shooter guide switch
A1-J5, pin 6, one side of the tilt plumb bob and tilt roll switches
A1-J5, pin 8, common to both shooter guide switch and tilt switches
Maybe also look closely at that diode board to see if something is shorting across any of the wires.
If there's nothing physically wrong with the switches or wiring, I'd take a close look at the logic chips in the switch matrix circuit.
Have you done Step 18 of the self-test yet? Do it without any balls in the machine and you should see "99" on the display.
Thanks sparky672 for the great information. I glanced right over and missed where that motor relay is shown on the schematic. It was right in front of me, although I still had to look very closely at your picture of the schematic, with all the wording (jumbled together) … but there it is.
Definitely clears things up. I will take your advice and check for any shorts, especially with the diodes. Thanks again.
Quoted from sparky672:Maybe also look closely at that diode board to see if something is shorting across any of the wires.
If there's nothing physically wrong with the switches or wiring, I'd take a close look at the logic chips in the switch matrix circuit.
Have you done Step 18 of the self-test yet? Do it without any balls in the machine and you should see "99" on the display.
Checked the diode board and all wiring checks out >>> good. There are no wires, screws, or conducting foreign debris shorting across the diodes.
Removed all the balls from the trough / machine, and initiated Step #18 >>> “99” was on the display.
As a test measure, I even removed the tilt plumb bob / track wire from the return side of the diode >>> to disable any tilt switches and it still occurs. Reconnect this wire.
Also while in switch test (Step #18), the green motor guide button displays #76, and the tilt slide / plumb bob displayed a different number (cannot remember at this time). I am thinking something is being energized when the motor guide green motor button is depressed.
Question? Since this is home use only, could I just remove the coil wire from the tilt relay? Would this cause other issues?
Question on 5101 on system 80.
I have had Volcano for 4 years. Had light battery damage which i repaired then.
At that time i installed a bleed cap which i never had one problem with.
A month ago my game could not remember a score from one game to the next. This was not turning it off, just one game to the next. Each game was a new high score, i got 3 credits and that was that. I had power to the 5101 and i assumed it was bad.
I got a nvram and installed it.
Board was out of game for a month. The bleed cap was actually on the board until i was ready to install nvram into game. I cut it off and installed the nvram.
My question is this, i still had credits and a high score. Is the memory IN the 5101/ nvram or is it elsewhere and powered by the nvram/ bleed cap?
Quoted from Snowtrooper:Question? Since this is home use only, could I just remove the coil wire from the tilt relay? Would this cause other issues?
I would not remove a wire, effectively creating a new issue, to get around a different fault. It's just going to create a new set of issues. I would want to get to the root of it. If I am correct, cutting power to the tilt relay probably won't matter if the MPU thinks the machine is in tilt. After all, the tilt switches just tell the MPU it's in tilt mode. Cutting power to a relay will be as effective as removing a light bulb.
tilt switch (INPUT) -> MPU (tilt mode) -> tilt relay (OUTPUT)
If the wiring all checks out good but the tilt is still being triggered by the shooter guide switch, there's a good chance your problem is in the switch matrix on the MPU. One of the logic chips might be shorted out. Have you visually inspected the MPU yet? The edge connectors?
Working on an original System 1 MPU for a Buck Rogers. Have it running and playing but the 3 and 4 player displays aren’t right. They are always odd. Seems like bit 0 is stuck high on those.
Which IC’s are specifically for the 3rd and 4th players? Maybe the 7448 or 7417 for those has a bad gate. Been years since I’ve had to look at one of these boards and hadn’t expected to see another one.
The displays and wiring are ok since they display ok when driven by a LISY 1 board.
Quoted from sparky672:If I am correct, cutting power to the tilt relay probably won't matter if the MPU thinks the machine is in tilt. After all, the tilt switches just tell the MPU it's in tilt mode.
I removed the wire from the one end of tilt switch / plumb bob diode to disable” the tilt signal. But this did not stop the problem. My thoughts were if there is wire shorted, the tilt relay coil being disabled will allow the game to continue.
Quoted from sparky672:tilt switch (INPUT) -> MPU (tilt mode) -> tilt relay (OUTPUT)
Is this the sequence of the tilt operation?
Quoted from sparky672:If the wiring all checks out good but the tilt is still being triggered by the shooter guide switch, there's a good chance your problem is in the switch matrix on the MPU. One of the logic chips might be shorted out. Have you visually inspected the MPU yet? The edge connectors?
I had this MPU sent to Chris Hibler and paid to have it checked out and repaired (if needed). There was a little corrosion that was treated and corrected. Otherwise, I was told it worked.
All the connectors were repinned.
Hey guys, I got a weird thing happening in my Robo-War . I am getting the Flight again extra ball after I start the game on ball 1 or 2. I have looked in the dip settings but do not see anything that would cause this. Anyone had this happen?
Quoted from RGarriott:Hey guys, I got a weird thing happening in my Robo-War . I am getting the Flight again extra ball after I start the game on ball 1 or 2. I have looked in the dip settings but do not see anything that would cause this. Anyone had this happen?
Is it just the light stuck on, or are you actually getting an extra ball? If it is just the light, it is probably a bad transistor.
Quoted from bigguybbr:Is it just the light stuck on, or are you actually getting an extra ball? If it is just the light, it is probably a bad transistor.
I actually get an extra ball
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