Im working on replacing Z13 Z11 and Z12. Thanks for the info. I did check the diode board and it looks good. Ill report back once the chips are in.

Ok I have found an odd problem with a Solar Ride (system 1) ive been working on. All the boards are orignal, and I had to fix some broken traces on the power supply to get the game to run. It looks like the game hasn't been assembled and powered up since the 1980s. The original battery is still on the MPU board, and I plan to replace it.

The issue im seeing is with the displays. When the game goes to display the high score, there are segments missing in every displays. The same is true if I go through the audit data. However it's not always the same segments missing. Also, when you go through the display test, all the segments work, and when you go to play a game, all the segments work. Is this some kind of corrupt rom issue?

Sounds like your audit data is corrupt, since the battery is dead you can't depend on it coming up with anything resembling correct data. So get the battery going first, then maybe think about replacing the battery backed ram if it persists.

The part of the rom that would control this is in one of the spider chips so you should hope it's not the rom issue. The eprom on system 1 just contains switch scripts, and you know they work since the game plays correctly.

There's no checking on gottlieb games of this era in regards to 'proper' segments (i.e., bad data to displays that other maker's decoder chips reject). So it's displaying the corrupted data as best as it can (missing segments and all....)

REGNE

All the chips have been replaced. Just a question where do pins in red go back to? I messed the pad up on pin 4 and cant test continuity. If i need a jumper where does it land?
And what does the MR stand for?

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I believe pin4 of Z13 goes to the top of dip switch 5 of each bank of dip switches… so…S5,S13,S21,&S29.

It looks like it’s a top side trace and routes in under Z13. I can’t quite see it from the pictures that I’ve got on hand.

I’m not home at the moment. I think it’s the line in red on the frontside pic below, or to any one of the pads in red on the pic of the backside of the board. I’ll beep it out later for you once I get home.

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Sometimes you can see the path of hidden traces by holding board up to a light source

I'm working on a Cleopatra that seems to have about one million hacks on it. Waiting for the schematic/manual to come in, but the issue currently is it's blowing the 24v fuse every time you coil up. A few things I've noticed:

The tilt/off lockout coin coil (or whatever that mech is called) has just one wire going to it (the power for the 24v) and no return. I get continuity between that coil and the closed coin slot switch. Can anybody enlighten me as to where that switch runs to? I'm assuming it goes through some sort of interconnect harness and the CPU but I've only had limited access to the game and frankly told the person that I would need a schematic before I could feel like everybody's time was being used well.

There also seems to be a coil and relay on the coin door that directly links to one of the chimes firing (which is also the only chime that works). Is that stock on these Sys1 games with chime units?

You mean the power feed chain? That would be the only wire that would go from coil to coil in the cabinet (chimes and coin lockout on door)

Is there an easy way to remove the rivets in the side rails without any damage? Thanks.

Hello all - I am thinking about selling my project Black Hole. I have had this for years hoping to turn it into an Eclipse. I don't think that is going to happen so I am going to let it go in a couple of weeks. I have never tried to power it on because several of the mechanisms are gummed up. A few parts are at my vacation house - that is why it won't be able for a couple weeks. I know mpu is good because I bought it a replacement. It was the only board missing when I aquired it. I also think the power supply is good because I rebuilt that to troubleshoot another Sys 80 in my collection. I have everything including the spinning disc and backglasses. The outer glass is great while the mirrored one is pretty bad. The lower playfield looks great while the upper has typical ware. $1000 seems like a good price. Please let me know if your interested and in the SoCal area.

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RGarriott
All beeped out just fine.

My Victory is finally up and running! New Titan rubber all around. Lots of broken plastics but mechanically in great shape. This game is still very new to me. Can anyone tell me when/ the black LED strips are supposed to light up?

I believe mine are not working but I haven't really dug into the issue yet.

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REGNE
Ok. Left advance button works. I made my jumper repair for pin 4. Went back through z11-z14 and verified each pin had continuity to its proper destination. I made sure that each pin on the chip wasnt accidentally bridged to another pin or trace. Still getting returns closed for row 1 and 3.

U4 bad?

I have verified the resistor and the cap for both rows. All is good.

I have a probe but not sure what im looking for. I giess I would be checking pin 11 for row 3 and 9 for row 1. While the game is running should they be high low or pulsing?

Can anyone speak to the Mirco replacement playfield? My upper playfield has almost a powder type deal going on in a lot of places (especially the pop bumper area) and I just have been on the fence about whether or not it is worth the effort trying to deal with it for a very long time at this point.

Thanks!

If you're thinking about Black hole I have installed Mirco's playfield replacement and am happy with it.

The black strips of bulbs will alternate sides depending on sling hits. Only one will work at a time.

Thanks, starting to make a bit more sense now.
My right side works intermittently. But the left doesnt work at all. After finding the boards that control these. One looks like it was in a fire. Luckily I think i have already found a replacement.

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I swapped a mirco spirit and was very impressed with it. I specifically liked the countersunk dimples for screws.

Apologies - I was referring to Black Hole. Appreciate the reply!

Good to know, thanks!

Can anyone with a Rock or Rock Encore confirm whether there is a match number on the display at the end of a game? I noticed today on mine that nothing comes up for the match. Maybe this was reprogrammed out with the Rock Encore ROM? Thank you.

No, it is still in there.

Check dipswitch 26.
Off = number to match off
On = number to match on

double post...

Thanks, I checked that and it was turned on, so must be broken. Appreciate the reply.

Are there any programs to change the sounds in the original ROMs? Thank you.

I had this issue in the past with other functions, so what to do in this case, what's actually "broken"

The dip switch. You can run a little jumper on the back of the board or just replace the dip switch bank.

I have a set of tested good system 1 boards I will be selling soon. I have an MPU board, driver board and tone board. I’m offering all three for $150 plus shipping. PM me for details.

Thanks for pointing that out. I think replacing the dip switch bank would be the best option.

Has anyone tried using an MP3 trigger sound card to change some of the music on their Gottlieb game? Thanks.

Just joined the club with a Joker Poker project just over a week ago. After a bit of work, I was able to get the game booted and running. At the time, the knocker coil was clipped off and transistor Q25 looked like it has some work done to it. After cleaning the knocker, I decided to reconnect it to the game and ran coil test. Well, Q25 blew, and when pulling off the driver board, pulled a wire out of the pin, so I have to get new pins to replace it.

While I'm waiting for new pins, can anyone hazard a guess as to why Q25 blew? I replaced it once with a TIP102 as suggested by pinrepair, but it blew again, and also all the coils locked up and I turned it off before it got a chance to boot, so I don't know if it will boot correctly. This second time around, I replaced both the diode on the coil and Q25 again with a new TIP102. Before I try to boot it up again, is there anything else I should be looking for? What would cause all the coils to lock?

It has a Rottendog PS, Ni-Wumpf MPU (older version), and a stock Driver board, ground mods done. The game had the interconnect replaced, I believe with the diodes inline, and has been repinned from what I can tell.

Added Gold Wings today

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Love that game

Anyone know this part number for the kicker assembly? Thanks.
bumper (resized).jpg

I'm not sure the varying lengths or if Gottlieb only used one. But this is what I found.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/22425

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Or just the fiber link:

https://www.bestofpinball.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=0&products_id=6246

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Thanks for your help everyone. Now I know the part number, was able to find one in Canada. I think the fibre link would be suitable to fix the issue. Anyone know how the plunger and link combo connect to the coil? Thanks again.

https://flippers.com/catalog_oc/gottlieb-c-5_27/link-p-1498.html

This is what it looks like:
IMG_0536 (resized).JPG

The plunger just slides into the coil tubing in the coil.

From that photo you should probably replace the plumger. Looks like it has oil on it. Coil sleeve and possibly the coil stop.

several have tried no one has really succeeded yet on the 80B system ....the music triggers are part of the 32 bit selection and sometimes there are two codes that can trigger the music selection

you have to put together a 32 bit decoder first and then figure out which codes change the music ....disable the music section and don't know if it would work but wire it in parallel with the selection lines

I have done a lot of work on this and there are other threads using raspberry pi that have tried but to date I have not seen a successful solution

My plan was to add the music over top of the existing music. Start with triggers for the start button and ball changes. Then could try for more advanced triggers. Pinsound is currently working on a soundboard for Gottlieb 80B games so hopefully it is released in the next year or so.

Does anyone know what the bolt types are to lock the Gottlieb head in place? Thanks for the help!

same size as the leg bolts just a couple inches taller works for me.

Does anyone know what the washers are called that Gottlieb used on the cab to head bolts in games like MGOW and Black Hole? They are also used for the large bolts mounting the board in the cab with the transformer, fuses etc. It's a large fender like washer with a straight bend down the middle. I can take a picture if need be.

The aforementioned washers.
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Can anyone help me sort out what the power connection on a system 80B is supposed to look like? On my Spring Break it looks to be missing pieces. The power cord is going through a piece of sheet metal attached to the cabinet, with sharp edges and no strain relief. It just seems wrong.

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The display is spoken for.

I have had this display for awhile. I do not remember when or where I obtained it. I guessing it is for a Gottlieb pin. Thus my posting it here. Apologies if mistaken.

The display is a 20 digit display that is 10.25 inch long and 1.75 inches wide at its widest points. There are two sets of ten pins on the edge with the glass nipple and two sets of nine pins on the other edge. This has never been installed. So I assume it is NOS. I do not know if if functions properly. (See attached images)

I’ll let it go for the cost of shipping. I just ask that this is something you need and will not be selling. If your interested, let me know.

Phil
42E63068-D557-4BFF-827A-9F3FE0FF28D5 (resized).jpeg7E6CE8C2-1987-4B4D-83B7-E674739D6EE8 (resized).jpegAB1E0202-CE5D-4BBD-82C4-0853DE81D7DA (resized).jpeg

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This is from a Gold Wings.
IMG_6279 (resized).JPG

Perfect! Thank you!

Now I need to find that plastic or rubber grommet

PinMAME has a sound card debugger that lets you write values to the sound card's address to trigger it, used it to rip the music & SFX from Rock Encore. It wasn't 32 bit, more like 32 possible values (5 bit).

My MGOW randomly just stopped kicking the ball into the shooter Lane. Coil looks fine, connections are good. The switch is working. Its not a fuse because all the other connected coils work. Im at a loss. Any help is appreciated