For sys1 and 80b games I'll test continuity and if it checks out then I'll wiggle the wires a bit while testing continuity again. If it all checks out, then I'll play the game. If there is problems in the game after a month or so, then repin.

Man I ask this then was doing some random pin checks and bam, a wire fell out of one with a tiny hard tug.. Honestly after that....it is worth your time to repin the entire harness and just not have to troubleshoot forever. While all wires test good via continuity it could be a different connection when the edge connector is actually plugged in.

Ye ole wiggle test.

In a previous life, I wired a few control panels. My boss at the time would wiggle, and pull on the cables to see if they were installed properly. Sometimes a quick pull is all it takes.

well....I took the 30min and re pinned the whole harness, no others fell out luckily, but the new interconnect doesn't fix my issue.... hmmm However, lesson learned, ALWAYS repin the entire interconnect and edge connectors. It will rule out that stuff immediately...I've told this to people but didn't do it myself :-p baaahhhh

Looking for some thoughts on this issue:

Friend has a roller disco. We have a stock MPU, LISY1 mpu, rotten dog driver, gulf psu and rebuilt stock psu. Game was working for months. Then we moved the game to his house, few months later he says the game stopped working. I go find a coil locked on, outhole. I take the game home.

Both MPU's do this: game starts up, all looks fine. I press start, and the outhole coil locks on.
I put a new diode on the coil, new transistor on the driver board. same problem.

I used a dmm and logic probe and found the mpu was sending the coil signal constantly once the button was pushed. Figured a pascal all in one board would fix the issue, so we kind of just left it at a stand still.

Well the other day I needed to test my Joker Poker, so I took his boards (both), put them into my game, SAME problem. The outhole locks once you press start.
I repinned the entire interconnect harness, same thing.
So the issue is following those two boards to multiple games, but only the mpu's.

Would there be a way, that the board could be damaged from Roller Disco's initial failure? LIke if the coil diode was bad, the driver transistor was bad, and it wrecked logic on both mpu's (they were swapped back and forth before replacing transistors/diode)? This just seems super weird that a newer LISY1 would display the same issue an original board did.

I've updated the LISY1 software, verified the coil, the outhole switch, the wiring color. Joker Poker had all the connectors repinned. IMO it is something on those two MPU's BUT I am totally open to thoughts and tests I can try to fix this.

Anybody here need some Gottlieb Counterforce plastics, let me know. Here is the buzz blower. The drop target plastic is junk. The rest are fine.

Hi everyone,

Could someone with a Sys 80 that has a hinged backbox tell me what bolt (and washer?) is supposed to be used to secure the outer frame to this upper plate? My game had some replacement bolt in here with a undersized Philips head that doesn't even prevent the frame from coming off.
PXL_20210720_185438231 (resized).jpg

For a Gottlieb DRAGON Sys1 :

Looking for a plastic A-18042 (right slingshot) in excellent condition.

DRAG (resized).jpg

I believe the original was a button head screw that you use a allen wrench on, but a phillips would work but easier to get off if on location. It's just a washer that goes under it to hold the frame from coming off. Don't have sizes, sorry, but washer is about 1/2" wide on the one I have access to at the moment (system 1 but same hinge).

PXL_20210721_155119766 (resized).jpg

Thanks for that. Seems simple enough with the flat washer, and I'll try to find a button head if I can.

Have you checked with PBresource.com

I need a suggestion for a set of assorted colored wires to do various rewirings and ground mods.

What do you guys use? 16 awg? 18?

Thanks!

What kind of machine?

What would be best for all games from the 80s really. Looking for the most common gauge in a variety of colors.

RemingtonIndustries.com

Thanks!

Question for the more experienced than me folks!

I have a Black Hole that I did the cosmetic resto on and now am trying to get it to work. It did not work when I got it, prior owner said it would go into attract mode but would not coin up or start a game. It has a new rottendog MPU in it and a new power supply board as well. Everything else is stock as far as I know.

When I powered it on for the first time I got a thunk from the solenoids and all the GI flashed. Then nothing. I turned it off and checked fuses, F4 was blown. I replaced F4 thinking maybe it was an old fuse and the new fuse also blew on power up however this time there was no thunk or GI flash. I unplugged all the pop bumper driver boards and was able to get it to turn on without F4 blowing. The MPU appears to boot and go into attract mode. I have alternating 000000 and 700000 on the displays. I also get the random voice for attract mode.

Here's where the weirdness starts. If I plug in the pop bumper boards I can get it to boot into attract without F4 blowing but the controlled lamps are all out. If I unplug the boards again the controlled lamps are back. It will not coin up or go into test mode at all. I have checked the tilt switches and all appear correct. I checked continuity on the test switch and it does work. The power supply has the LEDs lit correctly so I think the power output is ok. MPU (rottendog) has both LEDs solidly lit (not sure if the reset one is supposed to be lit or flashing?). I do get the re-entry gate solenoid cycling in attract mode so there is power to at least that coil.

Any ideas on where to start here? I am a little concerned I may have done some damage to the MPU with the initial power on since I got a thunk first and nothing since, however the MPU does appear to be booting into attract mode. I can't figure out why it wouldn't go into test mode at all though.

Seeking guidance and assistance with a problem that just occurred with my Gottlieb Genesis pinball machine. My daughter was in the middle of playing a game, when the music started fading and the score display went completely blank. The flippers were still operational, but pop bumper and drop targets were dead. When the pinball drained into the outhole, nothing happened. Cycled the power to the machine, and the game will not reboot.

Any ideas or leads where I can start to troubleshoot? Checked all fuses >>> good. Daughter is having a graduation party this weekend, so hoping to get this repaired and resolved. Thanks in advance.

First check power. Do you have a solid 5V going to the MPU? The trim pot for the 5V can be flaky so I usually replace those with the precision 10-turn version that is sealed and more stable.

Another source of troubleshooting info is the Gottlieb System 80 section on pinwiki.com which is a great reference. Definitely check that out too.

Make sure you are getting 5v at the little connector on the left side of the MPU board. It’s like 6-7 pins and goes from the power supply to the MPU. Reseat that and maybe you’ll get lucky.

This is a great read and guide
https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80

Do you have original boards still?

No the game came with the replacement boards. No originals were provided.

Hi, just picked up a Gottlieb Monte Carlo with clean boards that boots and will play if I move the ball out of the trough outhole, but there is a full row of switches that won’t register (strobe 6: #2 #4 #7 #9 drop targets, left return rollover, trough outhole) . In test mode with pinballs removed, all switches show open. Is this a board issue? (one of the Z chips) or should I be looking for something else like connector, wire continuity, under playfield wire, diode board etc? Thanks I’m not familiar with the 80B boards. I don’t have a scope. Is there a certain Z Chip associated with this switch matrix row that I can try to change? I don’t see any broken wires associated with any of these switches. Any help would be appreciated thanks.

D99C0C4C-802E-4DB6-BBE5-98CDCAD04A43 (resized).jpeg

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55886B27-D751-4DE4-A247-8C3C709C86C9 (resized).jpeg

almost sounds like strobe 6 is missing if the strobe is there you should see about 4.5 vdc with a multimeter on pin 7 of A1J6 and on all of the cathodes of the diodes. with a scope you would see a square wave and when a switch is made that square wave passes to the appropriate return line ....it is possible you have a bad diode which is bringing the line down so I would check all the diodes in that string

Thank you! I will try that.

Quick question... Old system 1 tone board... It's always worked, but the sound doesn't make the tone like it's supposed to... Volume is there, but the sound almost sounds like a putt-putt-putt instead of the beep it should be. I redid the electrolytic caps, but it hasn't helped. Any idea which component to check next before I just shotgun the whole board?

Anyone looking for a The Games? If so here ya go:

Machine - For Sale

Games, the Archived

Partially shopped/refurbished - “Up for sale is a 1984 The Games. It’s a title you don’t see come up often. This game was recently removed from storage and gone through to get clean and working. Everything ...”

2021-10-05

Keene, NH

Gotpins

1,250 (OBO)

Archived after: 42 days

Viewed: 604 times

Status: Not sold

There is also a Monte Carlo dedicated thread on pinside:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-monte-carlo-club-both-high-and-low-rollers-welcome

Strobe 6 is A1J6 pin7.

I think continuity at first.
Make sure you have continuity from the harness back to pin 2 on Z11. (eliminate the concern of a bad connection at the board edge connector)
Re-pin connector if necessary. (I would re-pin.)

Then I suggest Z11 (7404). You can diode test it based on pinwiki instructions... or just try by replacing it.
(I've found a lot of bad 7404 in my time)

Z11 monte carlo (resized).png

So it ended up being a bad 7404 at Z11. Thanks everything works great now!

Check the voltage at the amplifier chip.
I think it should be 24VDC.
If the sound is the same for all three tones, replace the amplifier chip, LM380N.

Can someone with a system 80B game like a Monte Carlo snap some pictures of how the power cord comes into the cabinet and how it is connected? Would like to confirm how it should be attached, where the ground lead connects, and confirm the hot and neutral connections.

The ground plug was broken off and noticed the ground wire was off inside too. I’m just going to replace the whole power cord with a new one and want to get it as correct as possible. Also that it is properly grounded and safe!

Here are some pics. Pm me your email address if you want them emailed to you.

08726C1B-4AE0-4B14-9BC2-CCF40A92A27C (resized).jpeg554A5ED5-2D79-4ABC-B74B-F1A7B0C0DBF4 (resized).jpegF7A5D59B-2B49-48BA-B1D3-A6A52FE233D4 (resized).jpeg95C14B8A-53E2-4751-961C-2436A0ABB5EB (resized).jpeg

These help a lot! Thank you. Exactly the images I needed.

Glad you are flippin' again.

Hey Gottlieb friends, what part is this little metal clip that holds the ball guides?

3D5228B3-5231-48D2-82CC-E4C5216ED126.jpeg

EF0D80CB-EC38-4939-B1BC-22179B030D68.jpeg

Flat rail clip. pbresource has remade them on their signature parts page, scroll down till you see them http://www.pbresource.com/signatur.html

Does anyone have a copy of the Rock manual or know if they are available online somewhere? Thanks for the help!

Saw a video on Youtube where they mention this board should be removed as it causes issues with the game. Anyone know if it is fine to leave in if no apparent problems?

Love the hack lighting job. Think I should remove this as likely not done correctly. Thanks for the help!

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Hey all,
Ijust picked up a Panthera. It works and plays. Looing forward to digging through this thread and learning about these machines

The reset board monitors one of the address lines on the mpu and resets it if there's no activity for a bit. If it works fine just leave it but if you start to get random resets, pull it off.

Make sure that's actually the board in question as well - GTB/PRM loved to have special helper boards all over the place game to game. The board you pictured doesn't look anything like the reset board in my one game that has it.

Ok, thanks for the advice. I may add a separate board with LEDs behind the translite and run it with separate power source. Has anyone added external sub woofer as Rock only seems to have a single tweeter.

Hey guys got a question on a 80B Robowar. Been working on a robowar and making progress, going in diagnostics switch test i had everythng working. I started a game to check all was good and then it went into tilt switch closed. did some research and found that it was likely Z14. Replaced Z14 tonight, put the board back in, fired it up and all was well again.
Attract mode and sound was all good, lamp test was good, solenoids and flashers were good, went to switch test and not all good. It was showing that the (1) and (3 ) switches were closed, so 1, 3, 11, 13, 21, 23, 31, 33, ect.

What would cause this ? And do I need to replace Z13 as well? Thanks for the help.

I posted an ad looking for a System MPU board and original PROMs for Solar Ride "E" and Count-Down "F".
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/119498
Send me a PM if you can help me out. Thanks.

Have to preface by mentioning I don't have the Robowar schematics. (I'm referencing Touchdown schematics.)

You have an issue with Return 1 (1,11,21,31...) & Return 3 (3,13,23,33,...)
Return 1: tracing from the switch matrix... into A1J6-pin11 then to Z13(7400) - 8 out to 9 - origin is U4
Return 3: tracing from the switch matrix... into A1J6-pin13 then to Z13(7400) - 6 out to 5 - origin is U4
You can use the diode test procedure found in Pinwiki to test Z13.
Bad U4? I doubt it, because all else seems OK. Is U4 hot to the touch? (compared to U5 and U6)

This may be a bit different for Robowar, but hope this helps you out.
robowar help2 (resized).png

Wow. Thanks for that explanation. I did notice also that the left selection button does not work now. I tried using the button when i was doin the solenoid test and it was not working.
I have some 7404s so I may swap those out.
I could send ya a link to the robowar schematic if that would better help.

I misspoke before. It's Returns 1&3 you are having issues with. (not Strobes)
I went back and corrected my original post.

You were on the right track. I believe it's Z13 (7400) you are having issues with.

Sure. Send me the link. I'll take a look at it.

Left selection button on one of those returns by chance?

Heres the pdf file to robo war

http://nstyle.free.fr/doc/robo-war%20reduit.pdf

RGarriott
definitely Return 1 & 3. Check/replace Z13 (7400)

Not sure about the left selection button though.
(Ah ha! See below.)

Does this occur now that you’ve replaced Z14? Or is it working now?

If your test switch works strobe0 and return7 are ok.
Left “advance” switch is also on strobe0, but it needs return6. (Return6 goes to Z14 on MPU) Z14 has already been replaced.

If your other switches work on return6 (Outhole, Rh flipper,etc) and it is just this one switch that doesn’t work…
Check the left advance switch itself, the connection 9 at the 1A7 diode board, or the 1N270 diode is bad.
If nothing on return6 works…maybe check your work at Z14.

68E6EB62-9B48-437A-9FB6-F2F474105E58 (resized).jpeg