If you can find a voltage change on those 4 values between startup and when the sound fades that would be the one I replace. But all 4 of those are 47uf 50v so I'd buy 4 of those even if I only replace 1 of them

Do these fuses look correct? SLO blo, I believe.

6DE11752-46C7-46D2-827D-0AEBA39F0E27 (resized).jpeg

All the input voltages are still there throughout the whole issue.
Going to hope replacing C38-C41 and C3 does something, because not sure where else to go from there. One bit is that when the sound does go away, the audio amplifier hum remains, so I know the output section is still working.

I was chatting with a guy on FB who was having a similar issue with a RFD. I'll check back with him and see if he figured it out.

Another thing to check is U5 the LM380N. The assumption is it quits working when it warms up and starts working again when it cools off. Assuming it is, you should be able to test this using canned air to cool down the chip when the sound goes out and see if it comes back.

Possibly. Just did the recap and played for a while and haven't had an issue yet, although I will say I don't have a desoldering iron and absolutely ANNIHILATED one of the traces on the sound board while trying to extract those caps. All those things they say about SYS80 boards is true I guess lol. Made some jumpers and we're good but sheeeesh

With caps I typically heat both leads with my iron and try and pull them through the board while keeping the solder molten. Once I get it far enough off the board I cut the leads. Both gottlieb sound boards I did this on I still lifted a trace

Exactly what I did and still lifted some traces.

Well, it works. If I ever sell the board (since I won't ever sell the game) I'll give it a full disclosure.

Glad to find this group and be apart of it! Now a proud owner of a Volcano! I've been researching, researching, researching, [enjoyed every moment of it how to care for it and be a good owner. Looking for answers to a couple questions.

*Please note: I'm pretty much a pinball noob. I did own a GamePlan old coney island at one point but it got damaged beyond belief in transport and I couldn't afford a full restore which it needed. Looking to try the hobby again with a system 80. I am new to being a Gottlieb owner and have almost no understanding of electrical tech and repair (other then how to remove parts, solder, righty tighty lefty loosy... Looking for instructional guidance, i.e. videos/posts/ or websites, on care like cleaning and waxing, repair and maintenance of system 80 Gottlieb machines. I do have tools to do repair work and looking to learn.)*

Q1[Non tech related]: The operator's manual included with the machine turns out to be photo copy of the original (probably from 90's considering the quality) and is missing many pages like the schematics. Where would I get a copy/original/reprint with all the pages? I checked Pinball database and they aren't allowing downloads and the Pinball Resource doesn't seem to have a copy (maybe I missed it).

Q2: When the game turns on, it loads a ball into lane where the ball is launched with the plunger. It will not accept credits or react to the freeplay button until that ball is launched and received down the drain. Afterwards it plays and functions as expected. Is that a normal system check action or is there something wrong?

Q3: The circuit boards don't appear to have acid damage, does have an external battery attachment, and seems to have the grounding mod talked about on Pin Wiki. The game turns on and accepts credits and allows play. The issue?
The credit/match led display and 3rd play display's green translucent covering on the backglass seems to be melting when turn on. What should be checked, investigated, or replaced?

Q4: I tried adjusting the pot/volume control knob and, along with the volume, the brightness of lamps and led displays in the backbox increased when volume was turned up, and decreased when volume was turned down. Is that typical? Ideas, thoughts concerns?

Q5: Am concerned that Questions 2-4 root cause may be related to power cable as it is the stereotypical cord that only has two prongs. Looking to replace it but unsure which is best suited or if changes are required based on that choice: 110v or 120v? Which kind should be bought? Also, if it is needed to be replaced, where should the grounding wire from the power chord be attached inside the machine?

Any recommendations greatly appreciated Have a great weekend!

I think I have the original Vulcano manual somewhere, I can have a look and scan it for you.

Ball in the shooter lane is likely the power on thunk. The driver board is starting in an unknown state some of the coils are activating. There are solutions listed on pinwiki.

Hot displays. Take the green covers off until you figure this out. Are the displays hot to the touch? If you have a dmm you can measure the voltages at the power supply test points for 60 and 42 volts. Much higher than that and you probably need a power supply rebuild or a new power supply (they are at the price point where it's really only cheaper to repair them if you do the work)

Pinwiki had power cord replacement instructions. Vid1900 here on pinside made a great how to topic on it. It's a job that can be done with basic soldering skills

Digging a little deeper on my display fuse blowing. I pressed on the connectors on all of the boards and couldn’t mimic this behavior, but if I press on the front of the light board (or sometimes when you nudge) I can get the displays to flicker.

They all flicker at once, so it’s not seeming to be a single display. I can hear an arcing sound up in the top right corner when the light board is closed, so top left when it is open. That’s power supply and sound board territory. When I fidget with the connectors I can’t get it to flicker the displays.

Any guesses would be appreciated.

Joined the club today. Nothing is plugged up, all the boards were removed from the head. But Ive got it mostly back together and ill be sorting out the harness later.

Supposedly it works, just had a flasher lock on and the last owner broke it down and never messed with it after that.

Wish me luck!

20210620_125319 (resized).jpg

20210620_125326 (resized).jpg

20210620_125333 (resized).jpg

Wow, nice condition victory, you'll never tire from playing it sir, good luck with the restore.

That would be awesome! Thanks so much. What do I owe you?

Thanks for the advice! Will look into the driver board advice on pin wiki and Vid1900's guide.

Any recommendations on sites/vieos/ or guides for using a multimeter on checking power supply? Thanks

I don't see a System 3 Fan Club so I thought I'd share this here. Having trouble with diagnostics on a System 3 so I pulled out the A15 board that detects the flipper switches and sends the signals to the switch matrix. I was able to test the diodes, resistors and transistors and all tested good so I set about testing the MCT6 Optocoupler. Since 1 side of this is an LED it's easy to test with diode mode. But the other side is a transistor. And the Base of the transistor is the light coming from the led so no diode test is possible here. I used a AA battery to light the LED and was able to diode test the transistor side to validate the MCT6 is working. I made a video to demonstrate:

Thanks pinostalgia I've always loved the gameplay of following the checkpoints to advance on this one. Im going to need a bottom right plastic if anyone reading this has one I'd be interested.

First initial look through the game and I find one coil that wont move and someone has clipped the wire on it. Before I swap the coil, do I need to check corresponding transistors like with williams solid state games? This is my first Sys80 so a little advice would be great.

Thanks for any input.

16242488398891298123224447452938 (resized).jpg

20210620_224935 (resized).jpg

I have an odd problem. I cannot get the backglass out of my Spider-Man. The key easily turns and the locking mechanism clunks appropriately, but no go on getting it out. I don’t want to drill the lock, and wondered if anyone has had a similar experience.

quick question.
Joker Poker SS
On cold boot player 1-4 all have the same segments out and credit has a few out
Once warmed up and rebooted more segments come back and coin/credit display partially better
After maybe an hour and a reboot all displays work great

I do need to repin more just in case (both display connectors at mpu) but this feels like a different issue on the mpu itself.....

test the display voltage at the power supply on boot and again when all segments are working to see if there is a difference.

You'll save yourself a lot of time down the road if you just bite the bullet and re-pin everything.

Ugh, it’s like I tell everyone to do that but never do it myself :-p I did the power board but I need to do the rest….. I’ll do this as well and report back.

Will do!

Shameless self promotion!

Gottlieb System 1:

Nice, love my Pinball Pool.

I super miss mine, converted it to chimes and it was glorious. Tons of drops, chimes and pool theme!

Found the source of that little arcing sound.

looks like it is 63-64vdc at boot and during the score to 000000's

Sounds like it's time to recrimp those connectors.

Good morning folks. I have a beautiful bone busters (3/4) of my collection is sys 1 and 80.
I had back surgery where they fused 3 of my L vertebrae and it causes me days of pain to work on my games now. I am wondering if there is someone in west michigan that can do a tech visit here. I have a LCA that needs a little flipper work, my car hop needs a little work and I have a beautifuly restored Monte carlo, (nicer than new) and all of the sudden the drop targets wont reset.
On the Bone busters, it got moved from a pals where it worked beautifully for a year, and when I set it up here and turned it on all pf lights are locked on. So I quickly shut it down.
so I need someone pretty familiar with these gottliebs to help me out. I will be happy to pay your rate, as I am down to 2 games that work!!!
I am in galesburg MI which is a hooterville type town right off the 94. we even have our own exit!!!
Please drop me a line if you can help or if you know someone I should contact, please send me the info.
I really appreciate the help. I make my living on pinball, but most folks would be surprised how little i know about the electronics. since it causes me so much pain, I just stopped working on them about 10 years ago, which means I dont learn new stuff any more, and have forgotten every thing I knew at one time.

It would be great to find someone. Rob anthony came out a couple years back and he claims not to know anything about gottliebs and he fixed everything.
I had to sell most of my games for roofs for the house and studios but I still have a bunch of gottleibs that I love.
Title fight which took me 8 years to find one
Hot shots. home use only never had the time to set up because it needs work and clean
silver slugger put in storage after it needed work
Monte carlo, beautiful with new alt. translight, and topper!
restored dragon SS nos pf and BG plus pascal board
car hop. I have owned 4 of them
LCA love it
Eldorado city of gold. took 10 years to find
Bone busters
Black hole. Just bought it and havent set it up yet. It needs to be shopped and I like clean games. They play so much better.
star race. Bought it and had it shipped. the seller hadnt finished putting the pf back together form a shop job. I am gld because he used the wrong size star posts and raised the rubbers
2 amazing spiderman.

I have found that the best way for me to get a game shopped and fixed is to let someone have it for 9 months to a year. That way they can fix and shop it and play it for a year or till they tire of it. In the past this has worked out great. My bud Ryan did the bone busters and its gorgeous. I used to live in that area of chicago so I enjoy playing.

Cheers, kruzman

Ugh, I suppose. I pulled out a few and ha they look good. But when I did my interconnect from roller disco, wires fell out of the pins on a few :/ ok I’ll do j2 and j3 at mpu and see if it changes!

First contact pbresource.com and purchase a good copy of the manual. They have a ton of things not listed and they are the place to get most of the Gottlieb parts you may need fir Volcano. I had to get a pop bumper cap from them for my Volcano when one broke replacing a bulb. Be extra careful of those if you remove them.

Read through the Gottlieb System 80 section on Pinwiki.com as there is a ton of great info there.

Would check the voltages to make sure you have good power. I’ve had to replace the small pot fir the 5V supply on a couple Gottlieb games.

Volcano is a fun and fast title. An underrated game for sure. You should enjoy it once you get it going.

Shameless self promotion #2:

Gottlieb Pinball Pool in action!

Blue replacement vinyl window films now available, I have these listed in the marketplace, they have adhesive and work great for replacing scratched windows, best to do all four so they color match perfect, I'm selling them for $15.00 a sheet shipped to the lower 48
PM me if you need one

The Black Hole is and example of what the films look like installed

20210626_075945 (resized).jpg

20210626_153323 (resized).jpg

Drug home a spring break to work on. Didnt even plug it in just started ripping boards out doing normal stuff. Yet I have 3 questions.

1 can someone take a pic of ramp area please? Going to order new ramp yet the rig job is impressive. Would like to see what stock should look like. Appears extra post and zip ties?

2 what bulbs are you using under ramps and orange domes so not to melt. Both orange domes are heat melted

3 how did they get Ron Jeremy on the translite?

16247364660458066508269248043998 (resized).jpg

16247364947241938225873324925444 (resized).jpg

16247365171498507056614672791065 (resized).jpg

Alright,
I repinned A1-J3 and A1-J2 (the right 2 plugs on the mpu for the displays)
I turned the game on and the credit display looks good now (need more testing)
But the score displays still all show missing segments

Since all displays are missing the same segments it shouldn't be the pins at the displays, I would think. So either I repinned something bad, or there is some logic on the mpu thats bad?

IMG_2529 (resized).jpg

You are missing the D1 signal for sure on the score displays since it's completely out. (The credit display doesn't use that strobe... but the game also splits those up into 2 different strobes (D1/D9), D1 for p1/p3, and D9 for p2/p4) The segments ('c' appears to be the one that's out, but not on all your digits). The segments are split into 2 groups as well, players 1/2, and the credits display, then the other group is p2/p4. Oddly the c segment isn't out in the first digit though.

Have you tried just one display at a time to see if one is pulling the other segments down? The system 1 manual isn't much help as it just says "replace control board" haha.... yeah. There's discrete logic chips coming out of the U6 spider chip that you could test the inputs/outputs on with a logic probe, but it would seem odd that both would have failed.

If that's the high score to date being displayed your memory is probably jumbled. Go in and clear the high score.

Are you providing battery voltage to maintain settings?

Oh my, I took the original battery off the board and cleaned the board, then forgot to install a remote battery pack. The holes are different and don’t line up for a coin cell. Can’t believe I forgot to put a batter back on.

Ok I’ll get a remote battery pack on, wipe memory and then also test 1 display at a time. Thank you guys! I’ll report back

update.
I added in a battery pack AND did the reset audits 0-10 via holding mpu board for ~3s and pressing white coin door button to go to the next audit.

3c. Built-in Diagnostics/Bookkeeping
Inside the coin door there is a large white momentary switch that is known as the "play/test" button. Press this button to access the game audits and test modes. After the button is pressed, it takes about one second and then the audit number "0" will appear in the ball/credit display, signifying the first audit value. The value for the audit will appear in the score displays. As the test button is pressed, the ball/credit display will increment a number 0 to 13 indicating the test/audit number. If any audit number (0-10) needs to be cleared, press the CPU board mounted black "reset" button to clear the audit value. To exit the test mode, either open the Slam switch or close a Tilt switch.

Note on the high score level replay values. Setting a "zero" at high score level means the level is not in use. But this does not apply to the High Game to Date score level (the zero does not disable this).

While in audit/diagnostic mode, the Q (game over) relay will be energized. This means the flippers and pop bumpers and slingshots (non-CPU controlled) coils should work while the game is in audits.

Great advice! Will look into PBResource. Any recommendations on how to properly use a DMM. I was told earlier to check for 60v but still confused where and how. Believe it is for Gen. Illumination (GI) so feel it should be done while turned off.

Any suggestions? Thanks

you might want to google using a DMM. they are pretty simple. if you are trying to check for proper voltage, it will have to be turned on. but you want to make sure you check in the proper location. someone will probably chime in as to where that is.

Does anyone know where I can get the ramp decal for Diamond Lady? Marco only sells it in a set and I don't need to spend $40 on a decal set when I only need the ramp decal.

RampDecal_image (resized).png

PBResource has them : http://www.pbresource.com/pfplayfSS.htm

Need a little help.
I swear when I had the game at first, multiplayer games worked, but now when I press start, I get p1, when I press start again, the game goes to ball 2, press start again and the game goes back to player 1 ball 1.
Everything in test works.

Recent work:
added freeplay jumper to diode board - removed this, still does it
Added a AAA battery pack to the board w/ blocking diode
Reset the 0-10 cpu/ram/memory
replaced chime coils

Odd find. The chimes worked most the time, but many times would hit once then not again, it would plunge but not hit. I replaced the foam, no change. I replaced a single coil (had one on hand) and that seemed to work. so I replaced the other two and it seems to work great now. Coils out of the game test within spec...is this normal? just age or ?

Finally got the space to put the boards back into her.......it certainly has a "rock star" look.

aaa1 (resized).jpg

aaa2 (resized).jpg

Question on sys 80b and slam tilts.

On my Diamond lady and Monte Carlo, if you open the coin doors during a game, sometimes all the displays go to ************** on them and the game goes back to attract mode and kills the game. I assume this the game slam tilting. Any ideas how to fix this?

Thanks!

if it's the normally open type bend the switch out of the way or cover it with tape/heat shrink.

If it's the normally closed type put the leafs together and wire tie them

I’ll recheck, but pretty sure I have the slam tilt disabled already. Why would opening the door trip it though?

Does anyone continuity test their interconnect harness? If that works do you leave it, or do you repin even if it tests good via continuity test (with dmm)