It says NOT to do this to the last 4 games as they used a N.O. slam switch. I didn't see goldings named as one of the last 4 games.

Edit: I just went back and saw that you're having a different problem, sorry.

It's pin 7 on A1J5.
The slam tilt's different, it's closed. My problem is a short in the tilt bob wire, giving continuity between the bob & bracket.

Thing is though that this problem showed up AFTER i switched out Z14 and Z13 and resoldered the daughterboard, before that the game worked but had Switch matrix problems on the playfield, which was the main reason i did the chip switch/socketing job in the first place. And i have gone back and checked all the solder jobs i did and nothing seems to be wrong or out of continuity or connected to something it shouldnt be, i followed all the lines by looking at them udner a lamp and checked with multimeter, and the tilt switch where never touched at all.

i checked the ones i know a Gottlieb sys80b have, and all of those are in the open position, and have been all the time, could it be that one of them is supposed to be closed though?

I created a topic about UDN6118 and Gottlieb glass testing if anyone is interested in discussing: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/udn6118-and-gottlieb-glass-testing

Received this in the mail from PBR last week.

It'll probably be quite a while before I have the time to restore the machine. But: it's reassuring to have the most important part I need to do so. Especially since I might not be able to find this part ever again.

It cost me as much as the machine itself did. And it will definitely be clearcoated before a ball ever rolls over it.

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Fully restored.
Still few cabinet and coin door repairs that I want to plus leds and it will be as good as new.
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I like the blue legs with the red bolts. Could see it the other way too. Nice.
Love my Spider-Man. Fun to play, great art, and it’s Spider-Man!

Like the 007 eclipse too!

It's one if my favorites. I was searching it for a really long time. The plan is to switch it to the original cabin in some point.

Very nice job "patrioti"

Preproduction look at the Excalibur ramp coming. If you would like to be notified when it is available, you can sign up here: https://rampomatic.com/products/gottleb-excalibur-ramp-25940?_pos=1&_sid=f2abaf4fa&_ss=r&variant=37904156590263

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Ice Fever is blowing the 1/4A fuse for the displays right at power up. Pinwiki has a lot of spots to check for power but no mention of potential/typical areas that could cause the fuse to blow. Any ideas would be appreciated.

I have a Gulf Pinball power supply in here. Before I unplugged J3, I unplugged each display’s connector. With the displays unplugged the breaker (I got one today) blew. Unplugging J3, the breaker didn’t blow. For reference, here are my measurements on the PSU followed by (printed value).
TP1 13.7V (12V)
TP2 is GND
TP3 5.0 (5V)
TP4 7.94V (8V)
TP5 83.2V (70V)
TP6 62.5V (60V)
TP7 44.5V (42V)

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Power off, disconnect all displays, reconnect one display at a time (still power off!)

Test between connecting displays - do each individually then additive once fuse/breaker blows, that display is likely bad (6184 drivers)

The first time I tried that the breaker blew, even without any of the displays plugged in. Doing it again nothing blew ever. I plugged them all back in and the breaker was fine. Strange, but ok.

Here is the game in attract with the fuse pulled for back box lighting to try to not wash out the displays. Nothing is scrambled like what used to happen, but you can see a few digits are completely out in one display. The credit/ball display is on, but barely.

One other thing is when I put the backglass back on it played a sound. The game is in attract mode so shouldn’t do that. It used to play the spinner sound and the startup song at random and that might still be an issue.

Well, after attempting to swap displays and see if the missing digits stay or follow the display the problem has resolved itself. Connector might not have been fully seated, or starting to go bad, or who knows. So that's done.

Now my next issue is the ball/credit display. Super dim. I tried to apply voltage to the pins of the glass and that didn't work. The three wires inside got a red glow and turned it off after a minute. Plugged it back in and it was still very dim. Any other options to look into?

I have a new friend with a Gottlieb Sinbad (System 1 version). I've never worked on a SYS1 pin, but have plenty experience with DMD era games. The issue is that the right 3-bank of targets will not reset for him (they drop, but never return upright). He says the targets themselves look good, and he thinks it is something electrical.

I was wondering if someone could please point me in the right direction of how to diagnose this issue and what might be wrong? I've watched a few SYS1 videos and read everything on pin repair, but I've yet to see anything that specifically address this particular issue.

The drop bank should reset every ball. Is that happening? If so the mpu control is working. If that is the case I'd expect it doesn't know the drops are down because the switches aren't registering. Of the bank never resets then it could be anything from a coil, connectors or driver transistor

Do you have a multimeter? Can you test the coil resistance? Can you test the transistor controlling this coil?

Yes, I do have a multimeter and can test whatever is required.

According to his account (I've not yet seen it in person), the targets are not resetting on new ball.

Could be fuse (it's individual for each drop reset on sinbad).... could be burned up solenoid driver. This part of system 1 is no different than any other solenoid drive on other makers' games. Transistor or predriver blown, blown coil, wires off, connections, etc. If you get back into the mpu board, you might run into an issue if it's one of the spider chips (u4) - if that's the case he should just get a replacement mpu as the spider chips just aren't available.

1. Test fuses for continuity, see if any are blown, 2. Test coil resistance to see if coil is blown, 3. Actuate coil manually to see if mechanical issue, 4. Test transistor on driver board. 5. Beer, 6. Report back to pinside for further analysis.

Could be a connector needs re-pinning, had that exact issue on one of my machines, forget which one.

Thanks for everyone's input and ideas. I may be able to get to the machine this Friday, but if not it will be next week. Just trying to plan ahead.

Also, I don't know if he has a manual or not, and I see they are not available online. Does anyone have schematics they could share with me relevant to my issue (e.g. fuse locations/types, connector location, wires, etc.)?

Ugh I am going through this with a force 2. I've redone the switch connecter, digits connector, interconnect and partially on several of the inline connectors. I know I have to do the cabinet switches and likely on several of the coil driver connectors. But each time I do it, switches start working, digits come alive and coils start kicking.

And the ground mods. Fortunately I've had all of the boards on the bench so it was easy to install them

A3J3 connector repin ootions?

Hi guys...I have a black hole that's been acting up the ball lift coil because the A3J3 connector is loose. Almost floppy loose. I've been through a ton of posts with no clear answer yet.

Do I buy the bifurcated pins (08-52-0304) and go to work or is there a new header option that's easier these days? I also like OEM headers but I'm willing to change.

Thanks everyone for their advice.

If you can find them I'd buy the kit that has the bifurcated pins already crimped to a length of wire. By the time you pull the existing wire out of the body, strip and crimp it can be too short to reach.

Or buy just the crimps but supply your own wire

I like to use the solder on replacements.
https://www.docentelectronics.com/httpdocs/AmusementGames/Pinball/Gottlieb/system%2080.htm

anyone used them recently? they are apparently under a "new ownership" where you can only contact them by TEXT msg and pay with money order...? That is like the trifecta on how to get scammed on the Internet for me so i am apprehensive :/

Yeah I'm trying to think how desperate I'd have to be to go buy a money order for parts.

Good grief, are we back to eBay shopping circa 1997? Shopify is really, really easy. I'm guessing the new owner is trying to dodge getting 1099'd.

I did not know about this, I used them years ago without issues but it does sounds sketchy now.

I just buy mine direct from Digikey. Their search system is difficult to use unless you're good with electronics and know exactly what you're looking for, so here are the direct links to their dual-edge solder-eyelet card connectors. If the connector size I want is unavailable, sometimes I buy the next size up and use polarizing keys to block the unused pins.

You'll also need some heat shrink.

Positions: Link
6/12: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/edac-inc/307-012-500-202/107605
10/20: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/edac-inc/307-020-500-202/107608
12/24: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/edac-inc/307-024-500-202/107611
15/30: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/edac-inc/307-030-500-202/107614
18/36: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/edac-inc/307-036-500-202/107617
22/44: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/edac-inc/307-044-500-202/107620
24/48: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/edac-inc/305-048-500-202/1711784
25/50: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/edac-inc/307-050-500-202/107623
28/56: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/edac-inc/307-056-500-202/107626
36/72: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/edac-inc/305-072-500-202/107598
43/86: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/edac-inc/305-086-500-202/107601
In-contact polarizing key: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/edac-inc/307-240-328/1292401
Between-contact polarizing key: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/edac-inc/306-240-318/1291808

Bookmarked this post!

Working on a driver for a driver board tester. I have the pascal output boards but driving them is easier in the game. Right now I suppress most of the lamps by grounding the data lines when power is applied. Frankly lamp issues on these boards are far less prevalent so I'll get to those last. With 5V and GND applied I cans send to 5V to the coil lines to light all of the coil leds at once.

Next Steps.
Make an arduino do this
Make the arduino turn off the lamps
Make the arduino test the lamps
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I wish I was this smart...excellent work!

that's nice to have! any chance they have a single edge connector with 19 positions? i am not very succesfull

Did the lamps anyway

Yes, they have this part in Active status but it is currently backordered. You can sign up for a stock notification here: https://www.digikey.ca/short/pbbzv22t

Left the game on in the garage to try to get it to juice up the 4-digit display a little. Came out a few hours later to this. No clue what’s happening to cause it...

Back from the dead after who knows how long.PXL_20210417_171203091 (resized).jpg

Hi all-

On my devils dare...I’ve got at least one lower slingshot that’s scoring when it shouldn’t. It’s odd though, it doesn’t do it as soon as a game starts. The erroneous scoring starts maybe halfway through ball one. The scoring starts slow, and then gets progressively faster until it’s constant

It appears that the slingshot scoring functionality is activated by of a switch installed similarly to a flipper EOS switch.

I can’t figure out what’s causing this. I appreciate your thoughts on the matter!

This game has a pascal all in 1 board, FYI

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The slingshot switches directly drive the coil, there is no computer control of these coils. The switch is part of the switch matrix and controls the scoring. Nice thing about this arrangement is how difficult it would be to get coil voltage to that switch. It's pretty safe.

Is this a new problem? Has the game worked with the pascal board before this happened? I am wondering if the right game is selected?

The game was working fine with the pascal board. This just randomly started.

Regarding the switches - the stand up switches behind the rubber ring fire the Coil, but what I was mentioning is the NO switch that closes when the slingshot arm reaches end of stroke. It’s this switch that when closes, Scores.

The erroneous scoring is 10points. And the sling shots are the only thing that score 10

Pete

We would like to see a picture of this. Trying to envision what you are talking about, because their is not a end of stroke switch on the slingshot arm, only flipper arms.
-Mike

It’s very common for slings and pops to have these switches. Lots of games have them.

I picked up a Mars god of war over the weekend. It was not booting, but I think I have that figured out. The reset circuit was not holding the reset line low long enough for the game code to start. I can get the game to start by manually grounding out the reset line. I am going to replace the reset section with DS1811 setup. Hopefully this will solve the problem.

The game has another strange problem. The power switch on the bottom is very hard to operate. Does anyone know of a source for the push-button style power switches? Or am I better off replacing the switch? Is it single pole or double pole?

Check with pbresource.com on the switch.

I have asked recently, PBResource has no stock of the push-button power switches. Likely have to replace with newer switch.

I placed my order today with PBR, and was basically told this. I don't mind having a toggle switch which is what they are going to send.

Hi I’m helping a friend who has a spiderman with a feature lamp circuit locked on and another one that is dead.

Seemed doable from the original schematic but when we looked in the backbox it had a rottendog driver board GDB080.

The suspect drivers have the part number nicely printed on them FQP 13N10L which ED at GPE shows as mosfets. But before ordering I wanted to ask if anyone has the schematic for this board or advice on if I need to worry about a decoder like chip and what that part is.

I had short to ground at the driver but didn’t think to reverse engineer what chip owned that mosfet. So any help appreciated.

Thanks Kenny