(Topic ID: 73213)

Home for the Gottlieb SYS1-SYS80B guys, Yep it's a club :)

By Gerry

10 years ago


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  • Latest reply 29 hours ago by JakePG
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There are 6,524 posts in this topic. You are on page 90 of 131.
#4451 3 years ago
Quoted from Insane:

Nice, i like the translight.

Thanks. I think it turned out with just enough 80s douchiness to it. ^_^

#4452 3 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

I’m not particularly a fan of the super caps. While some of the 5101 chips barely use any power others can drain that cap in a short time.

I had good luck in the past, and a few caps waiting to be used in a drawer. In this case, I was getting only a little voltage at the cap with the power on_ so I was looking for an additional issue.

This is mostly for my curiosity. Now the game has a nvram.weebly.com NVRAM (which I also had on hand) and it's staying that way, but I still wonder.

#4453 3 years ago

Does anyone own a Spirit willing to give me the dimensions of a ramp guide on either side of the ramp?
The part numbers B-22122 and B-22123, they are mirrored images of each other. I need to make new ones because PBR does not have them and I’d like them to be fairly accurate.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

C5CDBDB9-47C8-4260-82DA-72BFF36EF4B6 (resized).jpegC5CDBDB9-47C8-4260-82DA-72BFF36EF4B6 (resized).jpeg
#4454 3 years ago

I have a scrolling problem on #bighurt until I tap the Q relay, once i pain stakingly get in to switch test mode constantly left flipper why?... Also vuk after you hit home run doesn't fire vertically, missing ball call rep blah blah. I have re soldiered the coil, tested, ohms and volts are good but no fire even in manual test (driver board?). Then the backboard left switch.... I have so many questions. Does anyone have an ear to borrow for some possible guidance?

Much appreciated in advance!

-Mjr_Knockout

#4455 3 years ago

I have not done side by side tests but i have the cap that gpe sells in my volcano. It gets played once or twice every couple of weeks. I have had no issues with it .

1 week later
#4456 3 years ago

I know this might not be the place to bring this up, but has anyone else had this happen with a System80b? It seems like when a particular relay turns on it messes up the sound board. Here's a vid.

#4457 3 years ago

Is there a reproduction backglass for Spirit by chance? the nose on mine is worn off due to the disc motor coming loose in transport long ago and rubbing against the glass. I'd be in for one if ever available.

#4458 3 years ago

Anybody know what "CYS" is supposed to stand for on the Arena machine stand-up targets?

#Arena

#4459 3 years ago
Quoted from Carmoney:

Anybody know what "CYS" is supposed to stand for on the Arena machine stand-up targets?

https://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=82&picno=5195&zoom=1

#4460 3 years ago

Thought you all would like to see this naked pic. (Whistling allowed.)

863CEB25-27E8-428F-96FE-413BCF11C9F2 (resized).jpeg863CEB25-27E8-428F-96FE-413BCF11C9F2 (resized).jpeg
#4461 3 years ago

2021 Pin-up.
You just cant post a pic like that anywhere though.
Nice clean board!

#4462 3 years ago

Has anyone used the quickscan80? I have one and it's not doing anything except showing the clock, irq, and resets.
If anyone has the experience I'd love some assistance.

#4463 3 years ago

Thanks, but I'm trying to figure out what the letters C, Y, and S actually stand for! (Did I miss something?)

#4464 3 years ago

They are inserts on the playfield?

#4465 3 years ago
Quoted from Carmoney:

Anybody know what "CYS" is supposed to stand for on the Arena machine stand-up targets?
#Arena

Always kinda wondered about that aswell

#4466 3 years ago
Quoted from Carmoney:

Thanks, but I'm trying to figure out what the letters C, Y, and S actually stand for! (Did I miss something?)

I'm following this too. Waiting for an answer.

#4467 3 years ago

#Cheddar, If you are having issues deciphering the results of the Quickscan 80 you would be better to reach out to GPE who designed it.

Ed helped me out when I couldn't work out what was happening with my Quickscan 80. A true asset to the community.

#4469 3 years ago
Quoted from Andy_B:

#Cheddar, If you are having issues deciphering the results of the Quickscan 80 you would be better to reach out to GPE who designed it.
Ed helped me out when I couldn't work out what was happening with my Quickscan 80. A true asset to the community.

Not ready to do this yet although it is a great idea. I cleaned up a minor amount of corrosion and when I checked the reset line I was getting a weird noise out of the logic probe. Something on the board is pulling the 5.1 VDC (meanwell power supply) down to 3.5V. I found 1 7404 Z17 was getting hot and removed it but now only U2 and U3 get warm and nothing else. I am reaching the end of the warm chip troubleshooting.

Any ideas?

#4470 3 years ago

Hi everyone,

I have a question about the System 80 lightboard. This is from a Mars God of War. I might be missing something but it seems like mine has an extra set of drilled holes for some reason on the right front side for the display mounts. Can anyone confirm this is something I need to fill in before repainting? It's weird because they seem to be pretty clean drilled holes. The bottom drilled holes line up with the left side holes for the displays.

Thanks
PXL_20210317_214437500 (resized).jpgPXL_20210317_214437500 (resized).jpgPXL_20210317_214444726 (resized).jpgPXL_20210317_214444726 (resized).jpg

#4471 3 years ago
Quoted from vipe155:

Hi everyone,
I have a question about the System 80 lightboard. This is from a Mars God of War. I might be missing something but it seems like mine has an extra set of drilled holes for some reason on the right front side for the display mounts. Can anyone confirm this is something I need to fill in before repainting? It's weird because they seem to be pretty clean drilled holes. The bottom drilled holes line up with the left side holes for the displays.
Thanks
[quoted image][quoted image]

Why fill them? Nobody will ever know they're there.

#4472 3 years ago

Update on the Bench Booting issue. I have 4 questionable sys80 boards and all of them pull the voltage down to 3.5. I cranked the output on the meanwell to 5.5 and I'm getting a boot although the voltage at the board still reads below 5V at ~4V. Is this normal?

That said the QS80 is starting and giving me 4, 5, 6, 1 then F1 so I think I have identified 2 things: 1. The reset still isn't working. I have to connect U1-40 to 5V to get a boot and the 5101 is bad.

So nice to be able to get this working.

#4473 3 years ago

Bro. Post #4460...

#4474 3 years ago
Quoted from Cheddar:

Update on the Bench Booting issue. I have 4 questionable sys80 boards and all of them pull the voltage down to 3.5. I cranked the output on the meanwell to 5.5 and I'm getting a boot although the voltage at the board still reads below 5V at ~4V. Is this normal?
That said the QS80 is starting and giving me 4, 5, 6, 1 then F1 so I think I have identified 2 things: 1. The reset still isn't working. I have to connect U1-40 to 5V to get a boot and the 5101 is bad.
So nice to be able to get this working.

Figured out the issue. I found a post by ForceFlow that had a voltage drop due to alligator clips. I scavanged some old harness and jumped to 5.6V at the board. I dialed that back at the power supply and was able to get a successful test of the board.

#4475 3 years ago
Quoted from John_In_WI:

Why fill them? Nobody will ever know they're there.

But why keep them?

If they truly aren't supposed to be there, then either the factory drilled them wrong and just left it or (being an export game) some operator in France drilled new holes in the lightboard for some reason.

#4476 3 years ago
Quoted from vipe155:

But why keep them?
If they truly aren't supposed to be there, then either the factory drilled them wrong and just left it or (being an export game) some operator in France drilled new holes in the lightboard for some reason.

Those holes are there for the nipple on the back of glass displays.

#4477 3 years ago

I am curious if this 80B is worth Saving. On the plus side it actually boots in this condition and 90% is in the reset area. On the negative side I'd have to destroy the CPU to clean underneath it. I don't trust the small traces on this board. I've highlighted what I think needs to be replaced.
80B Damaged Area (resized).jpg80B Damaged Area (resized).jpg
Also included a picture of the back that looks like it got some off gas on it.
2021-03-18 12.15.14 (resized).jpg2021-03-18 12.15.14 (resized).jpg

#4478 3 years ago
Quoted from Cheddar:

I am curious if this 80B is worth Saving.

Depends. Time v money. You should be able to bring it back. It's way easier to trash it and buy new.

I had an 80b mpu with a bad cpu. I socketed it carefully. Works like a dream

#4479 3 years ago

Yeah, parts are not a lot of money.

I have done it 3 times and had lasting success on 2.
The third one failed somewhere else over and over. I was building trace jumpers all over it. One failure, I threw it in the trash.
I do it for the challenge and to say I did it.

#4480 3 years ago
Quoted from Cheddar:I am curious if this 80B is worth Saving

I would save it ....new 6502 only 15 bucks .....would cut all the pins off the chip on top of the board and take them out one by one ....that way the traces wont take too much of a beating .....then again I'm retired so I got plenty of time to do stuff like that .......if you do decide to trash it ....let me know what you want for it .....I'd be willing to buy it off you as long as your not looking for an arm and a leg

#4481 3 years ago

I’m looking for a system 1 project machine

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/112048

#4482 3 years ago
Quoted from BlueBlood:

Those holes are there for the nipple on the back of glass displays.

The holes I'm asking about are the small ones above the plastic mounting clips for the display boards.

#4483 3 years ago
Quoted from the9gman:

I would save it ....new 6502 only 15 bucks .....would cut all the pins off the chip on top of the board and take them out one by one ....that way the traces wont take too much of a beating .....then again I'm retired so I got plenty of time to do stuff like that .......if you do decide to trash it ....let me know what you want for it .....I'd be willing to buy it off you as long as your not looking for an arm and a leg

Decided to depopulate and see how bad. It was a nasty job but only 1 broken trace, 1 missing pad and 3 damaged pads. The missing trace and pad may not be used since I'm going to use a dallas reset generator in it.

#4484 3 years ago
Quoted from vipe155:

The holes I'm asking about are the small ones above the plastic mounting clips for the display boards.

Wondering if maybe that light board was used in more than one title. With slightly different display positions.

#4485 3 years ago

Alright, me and my bro had a "boi-night" last night and had some MPU fixin', resoldered 3 daughterboards and we had 3 different results, 1 game got back in the game working nicely (Hollywood Heat), one game (Goldwings) got "Tilt Switch Closed" error and the third game (Monte Carlo) got..nothing much really.

Hollywood Heat suffered from boot error but is now fixed.

Goldwings played nicely, but had Matrix error but now after got this Tilt Switch Closed error.

Monte Carlo was not booting at all before except some lights on the playfield so this resoldering was a test to see if anything better happened, and well not much happened, except the middle spinwheel started working full on.

So anyone here got any leads?

ive brought along 2 videos of Goldwings and Monte Carlo for you to enjoy and ponder over.

https://streamable.com/1mhtoq
Goldwings

https://streamable.com/29q0cg
Monte Carlo

#4486 3 years ago
Quoted from Luzur:except the middle spinwheel started working full on

seen this one before happened to me and was due to daughterboard connection..........question did you fully remove the daughter board and solder all the connections underneath it ?

#4487 3 years ago
Quoted from the9gman:

seen this one before happened to me and was due to daughterboard connection..........question did you fully remove the daughter board and solder all the connections underneath it ?

Yep, all three had full-on resoldering on everything remotely looking like a solder point, and i even contact checked with a meter afterwards before slapping them back in the game.

#4488 3 years ago

mine did the exact same thing when I had my daughter board problem could be a micro crack in one of the connections to the daughter board on the main board

#4489 3 years ago

Wanted to know if I could use Boston Pinball LED displays on the bench and the answer is yes. I had some old harness from Steve Charland (RIP) and put the dimmer connection in the right connector. Attached 5V and GND and booted it up. I need to tidy it up and fix the Credit Display now.

I used the Sys 1 Asteroid Annie set as it only has the 2 displays and is priced accordingly.

2021-03-22 12.57.42 (resized).jpg2021-03-22 12.57.42 (resized).jpg

#4490 3 years ago
Quoted from tyking:

Is there any way to know where to connect the ground wire to the modern boards? Pinwiki page just has the pics showing original boards.
[quoted image][quoted image]

With a little help from a friend, I was able to figure out the ground location on the modern boards, which was actually way more obvious than I had anticipated.

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#4491 3 years ago

So no one got any clues to the "Tilt Switch closed" thing? i done the ground mods and resoldered everything on the daughterboard and connect-tested it all, pin by pin, and everything had a solid line as it seemed. Could it be a chip even though i kinda checked them all for shorts? i have really no clue anymore what to check.

#4492 3 years ago
Quoted from Luzur:

So no one got any clues to the "Tilt Switch closed" thing? i done the ground mods and resoldered everything on the daughterboard and connect-tested it all, pin by pin, and everything had a solid line as it seemed. Could it be a chip even though i kinda checked them all for shorts? i have really no clue anymore what to check.

While not having any personal insight this RGP post says Z14 is the culprit. Might be worth pulling and swapping it. https://groups.google.com/g/rec.games.pinball/c/m9oTyqlB7Rw

#4493 3 years ago
Quoted from Luzur:

So no one got any clues to the "Tilt Switch closed" thing? i done the ground mods and resoldered everything on the daughterboard and connect-tested it all, pin by pin, and everything had a solid line as it seemed. Could it be a chip even though i kinda checked them all for shorts? i have really no clue anymore what to check.

I got that error a while back & since I didn't know what I was doing, I called a tech & he yanked the wire from the connector at the board. I checked & there's continuity between the bob & the bracket, so I guess there's a short somewhere.

#4494 3 years ago
Quoted from Cheddar:

While not having any personal insight this RGP post says Z14 is the culprit. Might be worth pulling and swapping it. https://groups.google.com/g/rec.games.pinball/c/m9oTyqlB7Rw

Hmm, i did socket those chips before, maybe i made a dodo somewhere during soldering.

Quoted from Topher5000:

I got that error a while back & since I didn't know what I was doing, I called a tech & he yanked the wire from the connector at the board. I checked & there's continuity between the bob & the bracket, so I guess there's a short somewhere.

which wire was that?

#4495 3 years ago

Ok so i just went back tot he MPU and desoldered both Z14 and Z13 sockets fully out and then went over every line and continuity tested every bit, and then resoldered in both sockets and changed the N7400 chips to two new ones, never used, continuity checked them hole per hole, and then put everything back in again just now, and well the intro music started playing but it still displays "****TILT SWITCH CLOSED****", so it isnt my soldering or the Z13-Z14 chips atleast. Which could mean U4 is blown, i guess?

#4496 3 years ago
Quoted from Luzur:

Ok so i just went back tot he MPU and desoldered both Z14 and Z13 sockets fully out and then went over every line and continuity tested every bit, and then resoldered in both sockets and changed the N7400 chips to two new ones, never used, continuity checked them hole per hole, and then put everything back in again just now, and well the intro music started playing but it still displays "****TILT SWITCH CLOSED****", so it isnt my soldering or the Z13-Z14 chips atleast. Which could mean U4 is blown, i guess?

If you know anyone with a QuickScan 80 it will check the U4 without removing it. If you are near Northern California I could run it for you

#4497 3 years ago
Quoted from Cheddar:

If you know anyone with a QuickScan 80 it will check the U4 without removing it. If you are near Northern California I could run it for you

Im in northern Sweden, so sadly we a few miles apart, but if you treat me to a airplane ticket i could stop by of course LOL
i found a guide though on how to test the chips with a multimeter set on diode-check, gonna try that tomorrow.

#4499 2 years ago

its a Goldwings, dunno if its in that list of games that must have the modification? werent those just the last 4 games?

#4500 2 years ago

<blockquote cite="#6210</blockq

Quoted from Luzur:

its a Goldwings, dunno if its in that list of games that must have the modification? werent those just the last 4 games?

It does look like the last 4 games. If the game expects a closed switch and it is closed (does this happen with the switch connector removed?). Is it possible there is a tilt closed somewhere?

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