Solenoids
If you have lost a solenoid (it will no longer energize when it should), you will have to trace back the logic to the corresponding drive on the board. On the System 1 board, each drive circuit is protected by a zener diode, and they protect the CPU from a broken driver board. One good way to determine if you have blown one of these diodes in this case, is to remove it.

However, before doing so, it will be necessary to correct the problem that blew this circuit to begin with, because after removing the diode, the circuit protection is lost, and a damaged driver board will then blow ever more complex components. If, by removing the diode, you can restore solenoid operation, you can replace it with a 5v nominal zener diode. If this is not the case, check the operation of the 7416 inverters.

...also just saw this, old bulletin on the Niwumpf site...

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Mar 17, 2019 - It has happened again - Ni-Wumpf has been challenged in our supply chain. Over the weekend, we identified a bad batch of transistors (MOSFETs) in our latest production run of System 1 driver boards. As before, this has come despite vendor testing of the component and the manufacturer: ON semiconductors. Driver boards shipped since the October 2018 are potentially part of this recall. As you will note in the enclosed picture these ON components have a date code of 1J18AA or 1J18AB. Not all driver boards shipped since then utilize these bad components, please validate this date code before acting. If you examine the board, you might also see that there are one or two Fairchild MOSFETs on the board in the QS5 through QS8 component locations... a manufacturer that we have blackballed from purchasing ever again. As it turns out, ON bought Fairchild, and clearly that specific plant is continuing down the path of poor production quality wherever these came from. Unfortunately, Ni-Wumpf did not realize this acquisition in time. Other ON MOSFETs components of the same designation; FQP13N10, used in our System 80 driver boards are working fine, and there are other System 1 driver boards that are fine as well, it appears to be just this date code run. If you notice that the board does not energize the coil strongly enough to have the target banks reset, this is the symptom of this issue. Please contact us, and arrange to have the boards returned for warranty service. Our apologies for this inconvenience.

BAD GIRLS TRANSLITE: DO I GO WITH NOS OR AN ALTERNATE?

Restoration & LED conversion is complete. One last decision to make:

1. Alternates (3 choices): https://www.pinball-translite.com/contents/en-us/d1052_Bad_Girls_Pinball_Alternative_Replacement_Translite.html

2. NOS - Shown in attached pic

Wife, believe it or not, prefers the alternates.

What say you, Pinside 80B club members???

Also, does anyone have any experience dealing with member "Pinstein" who sells alternate translites? He's $95 shipped, whereas the guys in the Netherlands (the ones I linked to) are more like $115 shipped. The NOS will be $120 shipped.

Bad Girls translite pinball (resized).jpg

Original is waaay classier. Plus, the pool table matches the game.

My boards are older than that. Also, the coil is trying to energize, it just doesn't have enough oomph to get it done. I went back through my notes and had a similar problem before, but not exactly the same. I have reached out to NiWumph, as they have been super helpful in the past. I am also trying to trace and check components.

Yeah, I saw the note on the site and even though it specifies System 1, it also specified that ON Semiconductor had a bad batch, and that they had "banned" another supplier that ON Semi had purchased prior. Just noodling.

Finished restoring the coin door for Spidey.

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Badass.

Very very nice work!

Awesome, love the coin cards..

Thank you gents. If anybody wants the file for the coin cards let me know.

Maaan, who has the nos, I've been looking for one

Two topic:

1) from http://www.ni-wumpf.com/support.html - "Ni-Wumpf CPU's do not work with Rottendog driver boards - there is a component incompatibility with the chips on that product. If you are having issues with the tilt or game-over lamps, this is the most likely source of the problem." Is anybody running this setup and NOT seen problems? Are these problem specific to a particular rev of the two boards?

2) what are the leg lengths on Roller Disco? All four of mine are 28-1/2" (leg only - not including the extension bolt and foot). On my Haunted House they are Front 27" / Back 31-1/4". My bolts are rusted, so I can't adjust right now. But even if I could, I don't think there is enough length on the bolts to make it play right. I currently have a block under the back legs - a 2x4 on top of a 1x4.

The girls in the alternate aren't even playing pool. They look like stock photos of ladies photoshopped into the setting. Weird, IMHO.

TNT Amusements has one for 200 dollars

Always get NOS if you can. Did you try PBR?

I just picked up a load of parts from a former pinball tech that worked for a local distributor. There were about 15-20 Gottlieb system 80 boards/displays which he had repaired on the shelf ready to swap. Trying to gauge a value on sound boards, driver boards, power supplies/displays. All are very clean. Just a sample, I have multiples of each. Thanks for the help.

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Mayfair Amusements has NOS Bad Girls translites. Steve Young does not.

I'm not sure on value but I know PumRibby could use some of those for his Black Hole and Haunted House projects.

I think the sound boards are pretty rare.

pintech nvram 62256 module works on Rottendog system 80 replacement MPU fine, but you have to remove the battery terminals.

I really dislike having to change batteries periodically on my games so I replace all of them with NVRam where possible.

I'm having an issue on a Sys80A That resets when entering diagnostics. Sometimes I can press the credit button to get to test 16 and then it resets but most of the time the credit display shows 0 and it resets right away. I thought it might be power so I adjusted the 5v from 5.06 to 5.15VDC.

Any ideas that I should test?

The bleed capacitor works well if you have the original boards.

that turned out great. Spider is such a cool game with great artwork

Just some somethin somethins from Uncle Pinball's recent Tim Arnold interview:

He really does have EVERY GOTTLIEB GAME. EVERY SINGLE ONE. EVER MADE.
He won't talk fave machines because then there would be haters.
The new building looks like Scrooge McDuck's money pit!

https://unclepinball.buzzsprout.com/

I'd put them on eBay individually. I've sold most boards from a Sys80 set and IIRC, I got $150 for a sound board (with a supposed busted amp and SC-01), $90 for a CPU that needed some work, and $50 for a working power supply.

I would be interested in a display depending on how many you have.

Swemmer and maybe Flipp (pascal).

Yeah. He has every production run game as well as lots of prototype only games. All of them? Maybe not, but at least all of them that even remotely exist. Tim has some great stories and talks about his collection in depth on the old TOPCast episodes.

I believe only Swemmer does Sys80b games right now.

True. And mine has been pretty dodgy..

Running a lisy80 board in my Genesis. Couldn’t be happier.

Is there a dedicated club thread for the Monte Carlo game?

I have the game but I have never seen a dedicated thread...hard to believe there is a Raven thread (which doesn't get much action) but not one for the Monte, which is a better game in my experience. I would believe it be like the Raven thread due to the game being thirty four years old. Most of the most active threads are new games, which are out of my market because I just can't bring myself to spend that kind of money for a pinball machine.

I have a Monte Carlo too. Start one!

Hey there,
my first post on this great site. Forgive me my english, i am Dutch.. but i'll have a try....

I have been reading along for over a year now. Since i've picked up an old Pinball game at my friend's house.
It is owned by 4 mates and me . It has been stored i a shed and a bit forgotten. But after 8 years the space was needed and it had to move.

It did not function , only 6 bulbs where burning.... Since i am the one in our group who does the 'electra-things' , it was logical the machine was going my way Sooo... i have picked up ROBO WAR ... in a medium condition. Dust , chickensh*t, spiderrags (spinnenwebben) it was very dirty. BUT is was complete and its ours. How we got it, is a special story... for later on.

This was about a year ago , so i started learning. one of my teachers was PINSIDE and its members

NOW... i have decided to become a member because the reading has finished, and the questions start ...

The state now is... after a lot of cleaning, polishing and repairing... it works ! Its clean, it has a lisy80 board, its got an new connectorpin. Some new capicators and some new elements on the prints. It has LED lights , some new popbumper stickers, new droptarget stickers, new rubbers and new balls !

BUT.. here comes my question.

one of the small issues i still have is that the sound of the end tune keeps repeating. It will not stop. Only when i start a new game the tune changes.

I had the luck to purchase a Gold Wings recently as well... (work in progres, but the technnique works complete) i have borrowd the MA-774 and placed the original Roms to test if the Lisy80 was causing my problem, but sadly the end tune still keeps repating.

Is there anyone who can give me an idea to look for?
What could be the cause ?

Tips are more than welcome !

FTN_Ferry

picture included, the envelope was still closed inside the game.

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Done!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-monte-carlo-club-both-high-and-low-rollers-welcome#post-6105550

Decided to go back to the original translight. I really like the view from the fighter jet cockpit but I was missing the 80s cheesiness!

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Had gold wings for 6 or 7 years.
Gotta love the bg.
And the music, same song over and over.
I miss that game.
I put a night switch in it to turn of the siren if i played it after 9pm.

How did Gottlieb number different ROM versions in their system 80/A/B games? Is there a list of what the latest ROM version is for each game?

I know the ROM images aren’t available but is there a list of the checksum values somewhere? It would be very helpful to at least compare checksums to help identify versions and if an EPROM is corrupt or not.

The source from PinMAME might be useful - have a look from line 103 onwards,

https://github.com/vpinball/pinmame/blob/master/src/wpc/gts80games.c

That helps. Thank you!

Would be great to find any supporting notes that mentioned the updates and what was fixed in each version. From that source it looks like there were three versions for Monte Carlo not counting other languages or the free play hack.

I've read that on some of the Gottlieb games that there was a different ROM version depending on how the games were wired and that the earlier ones had a different ROM. Was that the only Gottlieb game to have a different ROM version for different wiring? Normally I would look at going to the latest stable version of the code but don't want to cause issues by installing a version for a machine that may be setup a bit differently.

Alien Star has 2 rom sets. But, it looks like the only difference is how the coin door is wired for the number of coin mechs installed.

Hello guys,

Here is a new arrival. Over pay for it a bit, for a project at least, but I really wanted it.
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Looks rough but I can't imagine how hard these must be to find in Greece. Good find.

It's indeed very hard.

My Haunted House has an all in one Pi 80. When I run the coil test, all the coils fire as expected except COIL 2 gives Err 2. According to the book, solenoid 2 is the upkicker from the lower playfield (which makes sense - because that's when the game malfunctioned). Err 2 means "No current is flooding through the coil, although the coil is energized".

I know the up kicker coil is good, because when I close the contact that triggers the coil, it fires. The contact is closed by a gate relay (A-20558). The book says the resistance should be 156 ohms. It measured a bit low (115 ohms). So I replaced it. But I get the same error.

Any ideas?

(dupe post: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/haunted-house-coil-2-err-2#post-6107764)

Not to state the obvious but you did check the diode and fuse associated with that coil, right?

Also, Solenoid #2 is up kicker from the main playfield to the upstairs if I am reading the schem correctly.

Check the connector "fingers" at connector A3J4-13 and A3J4-10.

I am looking to replace battery packs on my System 1 machines (Cleopatra, Sinbad and Count-Down) with memory capacitors.

I see lots of posts about using 1F and 1.5F, 5.5V capacitors going back several years. As I understand it the capacitance (1 or 1.5F) is a measure related to charge of a capacitor. Therefore a capacitor with a higher capacitance rating would keep the memory circuit charged longer. As an example 2F capacitor will hold twice the charge of a 1F capacitor and keep the memory circuit charged for twice as long. Is that correct?

I am considering using a 2.2F capacitor (https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/kemet/FG0H225ZF/4290880) so it will keep the memory longer. Any comments or suggestions?