i will try that out on the one connector size i couldn't find the right replacement connector for, thanks!

I had to replace housing and couldn't find the right size so I just bought the larger size and cut it to size I needed.

Ideally yes, but many of the specific Gottlieb edge connectors are no longer available, so he has no choice.

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I have absolutely no idea how those Volcano pics got into that post!!!!!

but don't they have specific tabs between certain pins numbers? did you cut those off too?

Anybody have a source in the US or have a couple of the Gottleib World logo stickers for the coin door on a Sinbad?

http://www.pbresource.com/CoinDoor.html

scroll down till you spot them, or search the page for decal

Gents,

I am currently refurbishing the underside of my system 80 (Spider-Man) playfield (e.g. testing all the diodes and coils, etc.) before installing the new Pascal board.

There are two banks of 1N270 diodes that seem original (all read forward bias ~0.233).

I replaced a broken 1N270 with a replacement from Newark (new diode forward bias is 0.57).

https://www.newark.com/solid-state/1n270/rf-diode-pin-0-8pf-100v-do-7/dp/10P4366?scope=partnumberlookahead&ost=1N270&searchref=searchlookahead&exaMfpn=true

Is this variance significant or due to the nature of age of the older diodes the range seems plausible.

Reverse bias reads OL for all diodes

Thanks.

Man i miss my Volcano so much

there was a reason that Gottlieb used germanium diodes ...I believe it was due to de-bounce characteristics of the germanium diodes vs standard silicone ones on the strobe and return lines, at any rate I think you need to put a germanium one back in there or you may have problems

Thanks @the9gman.

Interesting thing is that I replaced it with a germanium diode. Package I received is same as item in link

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wow that's strange usually a germanium will read an average of .270 to .330 forward bias and a silicone will read .57 to .6 something its an rf diode so technically it should work

It looks like Mirco will be doing a small run of Alien Star playfields this spring!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/small-run-of-alien-star-playfields-/page/3#post-6055360

I ordered the manual for Devil's Dare from PBR, and believe that I have an issue with the bridge rectifiers in the body near the transformer.

Is there a post here or any notes someone could share on measurements of the three bridge rectifiers?

I have ordered a new 6800 mfd cap, couldn't seem to find a 10,000 mfd 40V cap, so hopefully will have good luck from Docent.

TIA

Check great plains electronics

I used these for my Amazing Spider-Man (1980, System 80)

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Thanks, guys.

I think I have the rights bridge rectifiers as well as some spares on order - some of them don't have the positive leg rotated 90 degrees as I would expect, and am seeing what I expect to be incorrect voltages in diode test.

Also seeing incorrect voltage from power switch - reading 26VAC which I know is wrong and suspect the power switch to be faulty.

The plan is to replace the bridge rectifiers and power switch, but would like to know if there's a doc or whitepaper that shows what I should be measuring off of the bridge rectifiers out there.

I'm going to take pictures and label the BRs and cut and test out of the system, to be sure. But I'm seeing some odd reverse bias on the current BRs.

terryb has a website, http://pinballrehab.com/, that has tutorials for measuring rectifiers, diodes, etc. I'm having problems with the site ATM though.

Right, yes thank you. That's the way I've tested them in the past, but getting some weird reverse readings and wanted to know if there's anything 'funny' in the way they're wired up (didn't have the manual, waiting on replacements).

My gut tells me they need replacement, and I'm going to take them out of circuit and test as a sanity check.

Test them out of the game to be sure. I just diagnosed a bad BR in my Panthera and did all testing out of the game.

when a system 80B repair goes south and I mean really south. I have a Monte Carlo and it wouldn't do this all the time but seemed to glitch when you had a really good game going. The display would blank and never come back and the sounds would stop playing. When the ball drained the sound would come back on but the display would not. Turn the machine off then back on and everything was normal again. This problem came with the Machine which is why I think it was priced the way it was 1100 bucks. Finally got sick of it and figured it was probably the daughter board. This wasn't my first Rodeo but the problem was someone had got there before me and the daughter board was smashed all the way in ....I tried all the tricks and ended up with this a complete nightmare .....so I ordered a new swemmer board first picture is the damage second pic is the attempted repaid

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it didn't work so I ended up taking it back off ....swemmer board was not in yet and I ordered these and did this making the daughter board socketed so to speak and it did work. although I am not a fan of hot glue it was the only thing that would keep the traces down ....epoxy ,superglue, copper tape nothing would adhere to the board

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then the swemmer board came in so ....I installed it .....it didn't work ....all kinds of funky things started to happen .....it was not the swemmer board .....my 5 volt power supply was all over the place so took it out ....reworked the 5v supply ...new heatsink compound ....cleaned the resistor new solder on all the joints and the power supply was very stable at that point but every once in a while the stupid problem persisted . So took the display out and sure enough all the caps were bad the 470uf read 360uf the 3 10uf caps read 1uf so replaced them all and did some re-soldering on the display board .....any joint that looked suspect, put it back in and the problem seems to have gone away at least I hope so
not real proud of this repair but it works so guess I'm good with that

I am interested in buying your old hack'd board. I have a few system 80B boards I'm in the process of fixing and testing.

its still in the machine working ...waiting on 5v 10 amp power supply to put the swemmer board back in ......The swemmer board is a nice piece of equipment but I believe with all the led's it draws more current so the plan is to put the new supply in with the original board and then give the swemmer another try to see if this is the main problem that people have problems with when they install these boards in their machines

There's a spendy but very good kit from Soldertools.net for replacing eyelets and traces.

I use the non-epoxy for trace repair (uses heat from soldering iron and heat tape - forget the brand name).

https://www.soldertools.net/circuit-frame-best13ackttrackdf/

^ that's one example of what they offer.

Oh damn if it works then great! I guess I didn't read very well & missed it, in your posts. You definitely need a good power supply to test those sys80b games. I bought a new one off of eBay and use it for testing.

that's a great link thanks

Help. On my Joker Poker. Been working fine, now the 10-J drops wont reset, they try, but don't come all the way up. if i lift the PF, so the coil is horizontal, they will reset. Coil resistance reads fine, as does the diode. i had this problem before, but don't remember what the fix was. hopefully someone can help.

Weak springs?

Weak springs would cause the opposite problem, no?

I would change your coils sleeves and rebuild the cross bar reset mech. Been a bit since I’ve had to mess with any of my gottlieb drops though so I could be wrong.

Good ground?

i pulled the sleeve out and cleaned it, all seems to be fine. Nothing seems out of the ordinary. i will replace the sleeve, i just didn't have any with me.

Also in case you don't know the 10-Jack drops are on the same single reset coil. It is 3 total drop targets.

Perhaps bad coil, maybe there's some impingement on the path of the rod going into the solenoid perhaps some gunk? I'm trying to remember the assembly pieces...

I attached pics from a Cue Ball Wiz, thinking perhaps the spring, or spring washer may be positioned incorrectly also. I realize the drop targets may be a different style, but maybe they help someone.

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So as i said, nothing changed, we were playing. All was fine. i raised the pf to change a diode on the diode strip at the bottom of the pf, for the tilt circuit. Put the pf back down, and noticed the drops were staying down. Went into the test menu, and checked the coils, it tries to come up, but only comes up maybe 1/2", when i raise the pf to vertical, then that coil is horizontal, it raises them all the way. The mech seems smooth, i checked the resistance on the coil, it reads around 9.0 which according to pinwiki, is correct, i also compared to another of the same coil, and got the same readings. I checked the coil diode, it also reads as good.
While i was checking, i pulled the coil sleeve, and ran a paper towel through it, and wiped down the plunger. i haven't made any changes to the mech, changed any springs or anything.

anyone with an Alien Star can confirm what their upper right wire gate looks like? I am not sure if mine is a replacement but it doesn't fit right if the ball goes from left to right, it often gets stuck if it comes in slowly...

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There's no guarantee of the diode coil being good if it's mounted on the coil - which in itself of course is a great big loop. Did you cut the diode and test?

Just wanted to give everybody an update on the Germanium 1N270 diode saga.

Bought diodes from Newark that were labeled as 1N270s - all 20 measured forward bias of ~0.5 (not in range of what a Germanium should read).

Received my order today from Jameco (labeled 1N270s) - all 20 measured forward bias of ~0.223 (correct range).

Just an FYI to the Gottlieb club since many machines use this particular diode.

I believe mine looks a bit different than that, but hard to tell from the angles.

per the manual it's a 21958, Marco has them. https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/21958

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Also a heads-up, not really Gottlieb related, but I got 20 out of 20 bad LM339s from Marco's recently.

I saw marco had 6808 ICs.
With that notice i think i will pass on ordering from marco on those.

I did not know that! Thanks for the info. Good luck with your issue. Drop target reset issues always piss me off. I love drop target, until they dont work or need to be replaced.

Anybody in New England have some 6 digit displays they would sell me in person? I’ve had a set lost in the mail, looking to pick some up in person. Only need one really....

While I’m at it, any reason a failed display would fuck up the Non Controlled +38vdc?

yes, removed 1 leg from coil before testing.

Thanks, I'll compare with mine and buy it anyway

So today, i swapped the coil and diode between the 10-J drops, and the queens drops. the problem stayed at the 10-J, so must be something in the mech, or the plunger. Like i said, nothing changed, i didn't do anything to the mechs. 1 game they were working, and the next game they weren't. unless it isn's getting the correct power for some reason?

I don't have a schematic to that game, but I'm wondering if there's something up with that particular 10-J coil's circuit or perhaps the connector? I'd test the diode(s), transistor(s) and resistors to it. Should be on the solenoid/driver board...?

i am running a NiWumph driver and cpu board. But i will test all appropriate devices.

Ah, I didn't see that in prior posts. Might be something on the board, but hope not. Looks like a much more difficult rework on the driver board as it's surface-mount on some of those pieces.