I removed the wire harness from the bottom board and cleaned with dawn. Also replaced the capacitor, rectifiers, power cord, power filter, fuse board, and general cleanup.

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Wow ! That looks awesome

OHHHHHH man that does look nice

Funny how we jones for wiring.

Thank you very much gentlemen.

If anyone needs the files for the cabinet / backbox cards, let me know. There are a few cards that Peter does not have on his website.

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Hi. I've got one of Pascal's Sys 80 board in my Haunted House. When I switch it on and it cycles through, it says that switch 57 (Tilt switch) is locked on. This is odd as the tilt mechanism has been removed (not by me). Any idea why - I guess if it was locked on the game would be on permanent tilt but it plays normally (sometimes - it's Sys 80!)?

Also can anyone upload photos of what the tilt mechanism and associated wiring looks like - someone has chopped my wires.

Thanks

The Slam Tilt switch is Normally Closed so if it were just removed, that'd be your problem. If you switched over from an old MPU, someone very possibly could have done a board modification to allow them to fully clip out the slam tilt circuit.

The error can be for multiple tilt switches.
Check the playfield switch too.

tilt (resized).JPG

Just added a Haunted House to the collection. Looks right at home next to the Sinbad. Some of the snobs dont like sys 1/80 games, but I sure like them!

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Love system80's and I have to say it saddened me when more people started buying them over the last 4-5yrs, cut down my continuous stream in and out! Lol

I have had my share of 80 to 80b. Liked nearly all of them. When i got into pinball in 2007 they were always available and always cheap.

The only game of the series i owned and did not like was Timeline.
I hated the sound. Didnt realize until i owned Circus that you had a choice of sounds.
I hated the game play. It seemed to me that it was just a wide open playfield with not a lot to hit.
Finally, the tic tac toe thing didnt work for me either.
Cliff

Heads up if you have an aftermarket power supply from Boston Pinball. I just received this message from them, sounds like they had some parts issues that can lead to voltage drop and are looking to get everyone who purchased a potentially affected power supply squared away with repair or replacement:

"Hi, you recently purchased a 5V Power Supply for Gottlieb Pinball Machines from us. We discovered that some of the

supplies have a problem with a diode that can cause the voltage to drop below 5V when under load. We would like to

either send you a new diode or repair the supply you have. Please let us know what you prefer. If you have soldering

skills, we can just send you the diode and you can replace it. If you would like to have it replaced, we have set up

an ebay item # XXXXX, if you purchase this, we will send you a new supply, then you can do a request refund with ebay, and once you return your supply we will refund the $20 and shipping cost.
Again sorry for the inconvience, we stand by our products and strive to give you the best we can and would like to

correct this problem to avoid you having any problems with the supply in the future.
Please return the power supply within 14 days to recieve your refund.
Thanks, Jim "

Awesome. Props to BPC on standing behind their product like that. I've had some displays, and even the Chexx led score board display. Good products.

Yep! Very good stuff and I'm very pleased with both the product and their followup. Won't hesitate to buy more of their parts should I need them in the future.

Where is the best place to get a voice eprom? I just picked up a Big House. I have sound but no voices.

Has anyone found a source for wire that's at least close to what Gottlieb used back in the day? I'm looking for White/Black, Black/White and Red/White.

Pinball resource may have them, then I thought there was one “official” licensed rom burner but I can’t remember his name.

I need a flipper coil stop for Roller Disco.

I see this, but it says Joker Poker. I find it hard to believe that's the only machine it works for.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-17908G

Does anyone know the part number for that? And where I can get one?

Actually, I only need the coil stop
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/500-2507
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-9520
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-17183-1

But marco doesn't help me with what games these go to - like they do on most parts.

You can get help from PBR to be sure but that first link should work especially if you upgrade the whole mech to the newer parts.

Parts catalog lists 17908 as the generic flipper coil stop.

It's nice when Marco lists the games it works in, but obviously they don't have them all listed for this part.

Like chuckwurt says, you could just get it from PBR and know you're getting the correct part.

Flippers.com is the license holder for EPROMs. PBR for copyrighted material.

They have Big House binaries available on their website.

https://flippers.com/catalog_oc/index.php?route=product/product&path=676_720&product_id=2802

There are 4 Switches in the "Tilt" function.
Here are Photos of the 2 Base Switches , Located in the front Left of the pinball bottom.
Called the Ball Roll and Plumb Bob switches, both are normally open and close when activated.

Are on page 38 at the bottom of the schematic, use a 555 (Green, Green, Green) that comes from the diode board through A7J1 Pin 7, Feed wire and a 666 (Blue, Blue, Blue) Return wire through A7J8 Pin 8 onto A1J5 sending a Code 5 Strobe to the MPU.

There is also a Ant-Cheat Switch aka Slam, normally closed on the coin door. That has a 700 (Purple, Black, Black) to A7J1 Pin 10 on to A1J5 of MPU and a 9 (white) wire that goes to A7J1 on to Ground.

On Page 33 , You then have the Playboard Tilt underneath the playfield about center of the board which is normally open. It is switch matrix 46, Strobe 4 To A1J6 Pin 5.
A 044 (Black, Yellow, Yellow) wire, and a 666(Blue, Blue, Blue) Return to A1J6 Pin 16

Gottlieb Volcano Tilt Switch and Inspected b 41BB abd Foreign Stamp (resized).png

Volcano Box Tilt Switches (resized).png

Looking for one of these boards for my TX Sector. if anybody has one please PM or have they made replacement doors for this? Any help or insight would be greatly appreciated.

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Is your machine missing this board or is it not functioning? This looks simple enough to rebuild with less than $10 worth of part.

Yes I have the board and the tracers are good but I was just looking to see if there was a better alternative and or another board for backup. This is my first systems 80b game that I've owned. So with my luck I'll fix it and then something else will go wrong with it!

Just had to replace one of the transistors on one of these for diamond lady. I say just stock up on the components that are on this board and replace as needed.

Hey guys here is my lineup so far! Big fan of Gottlieb Sys1 and 80’s!

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So I am still having issue with my displays on Alien Star...

There is some kind of issue that makes the display dim/flickers when the backbox panel is in the position "dropped in" but as soon as I lift it even before turning it, the display go back nice and full brightness...

I did the grounding mod and i wanted to redo the connectors (A1J2 and A1J3 on the CPU board, A2J3 on the power supply board) but GPE only has the right size one for A1J2, they don't have the 10 and 24 EDGE connectors, where can I found those nowadays?

I am especially suspicious of A2J3 on the power supply board which could get "squeezed" in the corner...

Many of those old card edge connectors are not available. You need to re-pin the existing ones.

What site can I use to find these? Any help is appreciated.

Great Plains electronics should have everything.

Tyvm

re-pin the IDC one? I am not sure i have ever done that with IDC... I found a few more at Marcos (the 10 pin especially) .

I wonder if those would work for 24 pins one?
https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/store/pinball-kits-parts/pinball-parts/amp-24-pin-bifurcated-leaf-single-sided-edge-connector-housing-as1015/

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=2-640136-4

In another not, one of the through hole kicker coil is pretty toasted, i wanted to change it and the associated transistor but the manual does not seem to give a coil table or a clear schematics for the driver board to which coil is driven.

Am I missing something or should i just check the coil driver wire color and check against A3J4 and A3J6?
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Docent also has the edge connectors with the tabs (like arcade ones) where you just solder the wire to that leg instead of "pinning"
https://www.docentelectronics.com/httpdocs/AmusementGames/Pinball/Gottlieb/system%2080%20AB.htm

Also gottlieb called coils weird thing. You may have to look at the schematics to find the coil via color on lugs and trace back to the transistor.

Replace the IDC ones with real connectors.

I think that's what everyone is looking for, source of the connectors.

right, i sort for a 2nd there was a way to remove the pin from the IDC and use the connector with crimped ones... i don't think that would work

Yes. I know it sounds weird but these can have .156 molex pins put in them just like molex connectors. Take out the idc crimps and crimp in the molex pins and insert.

Just received my Pascal all-in-one board and sound board for Spider-Man.

Where is everyone attaching the ground mod on the 80x4 board?

Thanks

i'll try as a last resort, i assume wires need to be pulled and top section cut off. i don't see any access for the pulling tool to get them out though. I found all size except the 15 one, docent has the "solder" kind but i am really not a fan.

It should be an A-16570 coil according to the manual.
The coil is driven by an UTP (Under The Playfield) transistor, which is driven by Q13 (MPS U45) on the driver board.
Most likely the driver board is just fine and the large transistor under the playfield is bad.
Don't forget the fuse....

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I have found a great selecton of IDC connectors at Arrow Electronics.

More importantly, the proper crimp tools:

AMP - TE CONNECTIVITY
58246-1 IDC .100 DIE
58247-1 IDC .156 DIE
58247-3 IDC .156 DIE

PISTOL GRIP
58074-1 MANUAL
58075-1 PNEUMATIC

IMO lots of myths about about IDC connectors being bad - more factual to say that manufacturers used the wrong IDC connectors (cheaper) and pushed them too hard (too many GI lights).

I think there's a decent non-ratchet, hand-held IDC crimper (both .100 and .156) at Great Plains. Don't even bother with the plastic crimp tool or a screwdriver, it's cr*p.

I can't remember off the top of my head on IDC connector colors and ratings, but Orange or Black are better for interconnects. And instead of frankenstining a molex/fairchild connector, IDC does great for line loops.

Sorry if it's less than intelligible, it's late

https://www.arrow.com/en/products/search?q=Conn%20IDC%20Connector%20F%205%20POS%202.54mm%20IDT%20RA%20Cable%20Mount%20Bag&promoGroupLevel=pl&prodLine=Connector+Headers+and+PCB+Receptacles

Take a tiny flat head screwdriver and push down the tab in the pin from the window of the connector the work it out of the connector using the screwdriver. Might need some needle nosed pliers to get the wire and pin completely out.

Cut that IDC and throw it in the garbage. Replace with molex crimp .156 pins and new housing.

The housing he currently has is fine. Take the idc crimped pins out, and replace with molex crimped pins.

thanks i wasn't sure how to match which coil to which transistor based on the manual. i order a replacement of the coil and each of the transistor so i will swap coil and the 2N5879 when i receive them.