So if have just been doing practice attempts on a random board from a PC PSU i found at the dump. My best so far is attached. But I’m thinking that it would still need work. Am I right that my wire cannot touch any of the solder on the heads of the pins sticking Through, or on the other side, it should not touch the solder connected to the wires, pins, etc., that go through to the other side. For the driver board ground mod I am doing it looks like an chip and a few resistors are closest to the trace I’m working on.

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I’m realizing that the actual pin my wire is touching is connected to the trace that i soldered onto. So I think my question should assume that the head of the pin that i am touching is not directly connected to the trace i am joining...

I would back it away and only be on the trace to be safe. Amateur tip: put solder on the wire (called tin the wire) first before trying to put it on the trace. That trace is big enough to put a small amount of solder on that too before attaching the wire. That should make for a quick and easy connection.

Yeh, thanks for that advice. I was chasing the little balls of solder around a bit too much. I think it went alright, see pics. But damn if I didn’t just look at the power cord. Does the cord negate the effect of the ground mod, since there is no ground prong on the cord?

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They're both connected, it doesn't matter. If someone is working on the board in the future and needs to desolder that pin, the ground wire will probably come off anyway because it's so close. Since on the actual driver board you're doing the ground mod from the topside of the board (IIRC that's the way most of the directions that are worded....) you don't want to get anywhere near any of the chip or component leads since that will be make that component more difficult to remove in the future. Unless you're doing the style of ground mod where you actually attach the ground lead to the component.

The purpose of the ground mod is to make sure the ground potential doesn't rise (get a voltage on it) due to resistance in the connections - which causes transistors driving lamps and solenoids to lock on. If you do the mod properly it will never lock on due to this in the future.

Don't forget to mod the under playfield driver transistors as well if your game uses them with the pull-up voltage, it's more common to get locked on under playfield transistors than on the driver board IMO. (This is NOT referring to the pop bumper driver board ones - it's for the ones that are on little L brackets that use a lamp driver instead of a solenoid driver to run.... for instance on black hole there are a couple to fire various kicker coils like ball release, the tube exit, etc.)

You definitely want to ground that plug too. See this thread for steps to take.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacing-line-cords-plugs-wall-sockets-vids-guide

...that looks like some previous owner BROKE the ground prong off to use it on an ungrounded outlet. Replace that plug/cord before you power the machine on again.

From what I understand about electricity, the ground is there to prevent people from getting shocked by touching things. But I am also hearing that the ground serves a purpose within the circuit where if there is no ground then the machine will fail because certain components will fail. So is it both reasons?

The game will work fine with the ground prong off. It will shock you if you play in bare feet on concrete and touch the lock bar with one hand.

Walmart sells a black grounded extension cord for 9.99. Cut off the female end and you have a grounded cord.

They already have one. You can get a new head with three prongs at Home Depot and wire it up.

Yeah , thats true but a decent cord cap is going to cost $5.
I like the complete $10 cord because it looks more like the original.
The cords that come with machines that i buy are often brittle, scarred, have bare wire or tape repairs. The extra $5 is short money to be safe.
YMMV

Done

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Should the ground mods be done to non-original modern boards, like the rottendog MPU, and the x-pin power supply boards?

Yes. All the grounding on those games is done within the connectors. It’s my understanding even the modern boards don’t add the common ground that the mods do. They are still needed.

Hey all. I have a question regarding the availability and difference of the motors used by Gottlieb in this era.

I'm looking for the one that's used on Bone Busters in the topper mechanism. Here's a picture from an old listing here on Pinside: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/complete-bone-busters-topper Here's the link on Marco: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/26589?fbclid=IwAR0Ec-kpIWjU3QgHKbssPJoO54yZKwur5JyPGk6drRdnvoZeC41ZljLxLDY (out of stock obviously.)

My question is - from what I've seen looking through schematics and marketplaces, Gottlieb manufactured a BUNCH of different motors for games from this era on this system. And finding the specific motor listed above being what it is, what is the ultimate difference between the motors themselves? Would there be any others that are similar enough to mount (even violating the factory design by designing my own) that would work? It seems really odd that they'd actually develop a motor just for Bone Busters, a game that potentially was limited in release and popularity just from the theme alone.

Or if you have one - let me know!

By no means any kind of expert, i would think if you can find a motor that is the correct voltage and rpm, probably also torque to some extent, you could probably make some kind of mounting bracket. it just needs to turn the arm so you get the back and forth motion.

That was my thought. I'd also figure that the motors used on these system boards would be pretty universal to cut back on the needs for higher/more voltage lines. Like, if they all run on 27V, that would be great. But that's why I asked.

Hey friends - It's me with the jacked Sys80b board again. Thanks in advance for any advice on the below!

So - I took the advice here and removed a few additional parts, cleaned everything more thoroughly first, and then verified all traces affected for continuity. Also bought the right reset generator from Ed instead of trying to get the type I used on a battery leaked Sys9 board with additional resistor. Regardless, the good news is - The reset circuit is working (quick low then high at power on).

Unfortunately, still not booting. Continuing down the list on Pinwiki - I've found that my IRQ (Pin 4) is stuck low, causing much of the other pins on the chip to be stuck as well. I pulled the 6502, installed a socket, and tried flipping the 6502 with another one (I have a regular sys80 board here that is working, but everything I've read says upgrading it is 'not recommended' without any idea of what all's required). Also removed and rebuilt the daughter card with all new pins since the existing ones looked to have seen better days. Confirmed none of the RIOTs get exceptionally hot after leaving it run a few minutes

Anyone have any other ideas of where to look? The Pinwiki has been a great help to get to this point, but doesn't always have a suggested place to look in case of an issue for this board. I'd consider buying a repro 80b board in the interim while I keep plugging away, but everywhere is OOS right now.

Picked up a rare one today! A Striker that has previously been used as a parts machine. I'm excited to get it up and running. Looks like it should play like no other pin.

However, getting it to work will be tricky. Anybody got a System 80/80A transformer panel for sale? Mine is missing completely...

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My Spider-Man randomly reboots within a few minutes after starting up. After it restarts sound doesn’t work. Checking it out tonight... voltage levels seem pretty good. 5V sitting around 4.8V... wouldn’t think that’s low enough to trigger a reboot. When I push the test button on sound card a few times it eventually triggers the restart and test button doesn’t trigger any sound. Anyone have something similar before and point me in some direction... sound card triggering restart on mpu? Or mpu restarting and messing up sound card?

20+ games we recorded and nobody did the thing! Lol

Check with PBR I'm not 100% positive but I think Steve rebuilds them or offers alternative motors for some Gottleib games.

I disconnected the sound card and the game seems to play solid without resetting.

I’m expecting more than connector problems. But will clean them again.

For many years i would occasionally get a random small sound play, (Not the attract ditty) but it wouldn’t trigger anything else like the recent reset. Is that another symptom of something wrong with the sound card?

Can the sound card generate tones on its own or will it always be sent what to play from the controller board?

Yes, S2 on sound card plays attract theme when in game over approx every 6 minutes.

Likely your power supply is marginal and removing the extra +5 load from the sound board is giving the MPU board more headroom.

I see from earlier you only have 4.8 volts is that at the 5v test points on the boards or at the power supply? Adjust the power supply pot to give you +5 at the boards they are running, not at the power supply.

I agree, I think 4.8v is too low. See what that is low, I forgot if sys80 power boards have it but sys1 power board have a pot to adjust voltage

I’ve been trying to avoid touching that pot as people have said you should replace it. I adjusted and it seemed pretty smooth. I bought my pin in 2002 but maybe the original owner (arcade owner) changed it before he sold it to me. He had done all the ground mods so maybe replaced the pot too.

Adjusted up so that TP on power board is 5.1v and power at circuit boards are 5.0v. Reinstalled sound card and played a few games ... no reset. I’m leaving it on in the middle of a 4 player game for a couple hours to see it it resets.

Looking good! Thanks.

Since I never tried it before I also switched sound modes... idk... too robotic for me after listening to the other mode for 17 years

Yeah, old pots get stuck in their ways sound one are usually bad too,

Well awesome news! Thanks for posting up, I hope that fixes it!

Ok, so I have started looking for a transformer panel for my Striker. Now I have been offered a panel from a System 80 machine which looks similar, but slightly different.

Question for the technicians: could the panel that I have been offered be used for the Striker? If yes: Are modifications needed? And if yes, How hard would these be for somebody that knows how to handle a soldering iron, measure voltages and replace connectors but is by no means a professional pinball technician by heart?

Picture 1 shows the transformer panel that should be in my Striker, but is missing:
Picture 1

Picture 2 shows the transformer panel that I have been offered:
Picture 2

I don't see why not, just double check all the voltages are going where they should. Gottlieb parts catalog for 1987 doesn't even list differing transformers.

almost looks like the panel from the jacks to open (that you are being offered)
striker is also a sys80a. I would think it can work no issue, but as slochar said, you'll want to run through the before powering on section (i know this is sys1 but apply to sys80, similar setup)
http://www.pinrepair.com/sys1/index.htm

You'll want to power just that panel on and verify all the power voltages etc. remembering that some are AC and some are DC

EDIT: dang I thought I had a pic of the cab/panel from the jacks to open work, but I dont sorry

Seems to come from a Volcano....additional rectifier with capacitor (which can be removed). I should expect issues if there are any with wiring and connectors.

This is a board from my volcano.
Looks like you are correct sir.

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Hey Sys80 freaks, first time I’ve ever had flipper/+38v issues.

I was working on someone’s game yesterday and I had more or less solved all the issues at hand and then right at the end of the day, a dangly filament of the player one score display broke and all the displays went dim. Then, possibly by coincidence, all of the non controlled +38Vdc coils wont fire. No flippers, pop, ect.

+38Vdc is still present on the flipper coils and pop coils, but can’t get them to work at all. +38Vdc is present on the bridge rectifier, and I get continuity on the +38Vdc tip and the coils (at least most of them, I didn’t check all as it was the end of the day). Any tips on where to look? Connectors A12J/P8 and A12J/P1 and A9J/P8 all were disconnected and reconnected and had no affect.

Possible ground short? Where should I be looking for this?

While I’m at it, the owner mentioned that he had flipped a few dip switches with the game on. I don’t see any reason that would affect this?

boilerman

I bought a metal backglass lift channel (28.5" 1/8 glass) from Planetary Pinball.

Cut it down to a little over 26" to fit my new Amazing Spider-Man backglass.

Works / looks great.

I hope this question fits this thread, but I'm putting back together a Mars God of War, and though I took pictures of everything on disassembly, I find now I didn't take enough pictures

Was there anything put out by Gottlieb that showed the hardware used in the cabinets? Diagrams, or a part list? I have some screws and washers I'm not sure about where they go.

Does this help?

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Thanks for that, but the real issue I'm having is which screw goes to what type stuff. For example, the playfield "H" prop I'm not sure which screws attach that to the bracket, or whether to use a washer.

This is inside of my Amazing Spider-Man cabinet. It’s a system 80 from 1980

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Wow, that’s amazing. It looks new. How’s the outside compare? I love Spider-Man - simple, solid and great art to boot.

That's a really nice looking game. Thanks for those pictures, definitely the most detail I've seen online anywhere of a System 80.

Thanks. Cabinet has been fully restored. New rails and lockdown receiver from PBR as well

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Absolutely beautiful. Wonderful work on the restoration.

Wow. Even the wires! Did you clean them or install new ones?

I'm sure this has been asked before buy I can't find it.

What is the correct part number for the nylon standoffs that hold the CPU board on a System 1? MP-52?

TIA,

Ken

http://www.pbresource.com/boards.html

Looks like mp-11 from what PBR is saying

I saw that, but they are not the same as what I need. Looks like I need the ones that just plug in on both sides like the MP-52.

Ya I agree, the ones from my sys1 where secured to the back box differently. Did you send them a message about it?

No.

I did take a measurement of mine and they look like the ones that PBR is out of stock on anyways. There are only 2 that look like the ones I have and the other is too long. Don't need them now, but just wanted to pick up some extras on an order I'm putting in tonight as these break very easily.

You could also check with Todd at big day enterprises.

Also looks like docent may have them
https://www.docentelectronics.com/httpdocs/AmusementGames/Pinball/Gottlieb/System%20One.htm