I just posted an original 80B driver board. I no longer have an 80B machine, but had it repaired to help someone who does.

Parts - For Sale

Gottlieb 80B Driver Board Archived

Used, good condition - “A fully functional, OEM Gottlieb driver board. It had burned a transistor for the out-hole solenoid on one of my old machines. It has been repaired and tested. (Photo below shows i...”

2020-12-07

Plymouth, MI

gorditas

100

Archived after: 149 days

Viewed: 143 times

Status: Not sold

My display problems when I aquired mine were all connector related. Those displays are pretty good from what I've experienced.

From Clay's repair guide:-

When there is a problem with two (or more) displays, often the problem is
the chips closest to the connectors on the CPU board. This would be
Z19,Z21,Z23 (7448) or Z17,Z24,Z26 (7404).
If there is a Digit problem on two or more of the displays, check these chips.
These chips all go to connector J3. If all displays are missing a digit, suspect
CPU chip Z25. If two displays have a missing digit, suspect chips
Z17,Z24,Z26. If only one display has a missing digit, suspect the display
itself.
CPU chip Z25 (74154) controls the three digit CPU chips Z17,Z24,Z26.
CPU chip Z17 controls player 1, player 3, and the bonus display.
CPU chip Z24 controls player 2, player 4, and the credit/ball count.
CPU chip Z26 controls the the status display.
If there is a Segment problem in two or more of your displays, check these
chips. Remember connector J2 takes the segment lines to the displays. If all
displays have a segment problem, suspect CPU chip Z16. If two displays have
a display problem, suspect chips Z19,Z21,Z23. If one display has a segment
problem, suspect the UDN6116 chip on the display itself.
CPU chip Z16 (7404) is the main segment controlling chip. If a segment
is out on all displays, chances are good Z16 is the problem.
CPU chips Z18,Z20,Z22 (74175) feed Z19,Z21,Z23 (7448)
respectively. If a segment is out on a pair of displays, chances are good
its a 74175/7448 pair that is bad. The Z19,Z21,Z23 (7448) are the
most problematic though (I don't think I have ever changed a 74175 to
fix a segment problem).
CPU chips Z18,Z19 control segments on players 1 and 2 displays.
34 of 68

that is my first priority though GPE is backup and now allowing order at the moment so it will have to wait unfortunately

thanks that is helpful, based on the above and the table from Pinwiki, it would be worth trying to replace Z26 since my P2&4 M's digit is out on boath display as well as the whole Status display.
Since the Unit digit is missing on all 4 display i'll try to change the Z25 based on above too.

I can get those from a shop 10 minutes away compared to hard to find Edge connector for now...

80A - Millions digit - on players 2&4 is D12. A1J3-12. Z26 pin2

In fact all of your display issues seem related to Z26. (maybe someone unplugged connectors with the power on? do not do this.)
D12: A1J3-12 Z26 pin2 80A - Millions digit - on players 2&4
D13: A1J3-13 Z26 pin4 80A - RH most digit of status display
D14: A1J3-14 Z26 pin6 80A - middle RH digit of status display
D15: A1J3-15 Z26 pin10 80A - middle LH digit of status display
D16: A1J3-16 Z26 pin8 80A - Ones digit - on players 1&3 and LH most digit of status display

Power off while making these display swaps:
Try each 7-digit display in player 1. only one display plugged in at a time.
Try each 7-digit display in player 3. only one display plugged in at a time.
does each display behave the same as in your picture above when in those locations?

For the status/credit display.
Is +42V DC present out of the power supply? if no, check CR6 and R5 on PS.
+42VDC at the display?
Proper VAC at the display?
Glass is still in good condition? (black dots in top left & bottom right corners still present?)
if white dots glass is NG.

Will try that today, thank you!

Yes on all the above, i check the power on the display, both VDC and AC were good and the one black dot (and nipple) looks fine as well. I am ordering a spare from PBR just in case though.

Just when you think you are out, they pull you back in...

I picked up a nice BH this weekend. It came with all the usual electrical gremlins, but I should be able to get it working soon.

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Looks pretty nice from here!

So I'm getting ready to test the power supply in the Force 2 I just picked up and I'm pulling up a schematic for the voltages and pins. I usually use the System 80 Service Manual since the power supply doesn't change until 80B.

http://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/PDF%20Pinball%20Misc/System80%20Service%20Manual.pdf

So I see this? Anybody spot the problem?
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I'm not a fan of that schematic as it can make a pin to pin match up confusing. I have a better pic and the update for it.
-Mike

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thanks for this!

Well, all pretty strange, took off the MPU to change Z26 and after putting it back in, everything worked! i feel like there is some bad connector contact somewhere for sure...

When the bakcboard is out of the back box everything is sharp though sometime when i push it back in and it drops in its resting place the display seriously dim to a point you can barely see the status.
Below is V reading test from display from when they are out or when they are in.

Board open
status/credit: 2.8VAC, 42.9VDC & 6VDC
P4: 5.9VAC, 61.0VDC & 6.0VDC

Board close in its resting position
status/credit: 2.8VAC, 17.1VDC & 6VDC
P4: 5.9VAC, 34.5VDC & 6.0VDC

Looks like the 40/60VDC drops quite a bit... any thoughts? Grounding issue to display or voltage itself?

I’m in need of a scan of a Rock manual. If anyone has one, please send me a PM.

EDIT - Copy has been obtained. Thanks for the support.

Different voltage based on the position of the backboard?
Sounds like terminals and/or cold solder joint on PS.

Repin A1J3. Repin all PS connectors. Check the PS pins for cold solder joints as well and reflow or replace.
Need to get your voltages stable.

Make sense, thank you. I was waiting for GPE to reopen orders so I can get EDGE contact. Are the "08-50-0134 / 08-52-0072" the right one for these SYS80A connector? Not the "Bifurcated" ones right?

I was wondering if there was ground mod for the displays as well? Would a flaky ground to the display impact reliable VDC?

Update, so I replaced u4, and z11-z14 and game is back up and running and switches work. Only things not working is the feature lamps in attract mode only. Lamps light fine in game play mode, which has got me baffled. Not sure where to go from here, so any help would be greatly appreciated
Game worked fine until I hooked up the #5 kicking target, that was previously disconnected by someone

On my Black Hole (and a number of my Gottlieb games), I've noticed that a lot of the plastics have broken/warped themselves in part due to posts wooden star post screws just blowing out of their socket in high impact areas or areas where the rubber tension is high.

Does anybody see any issue with just drilling those holes through and replacing the bare wooden hole with metal T-Nut receiver for more strength or am I really better off just doweling and re-drilling with the original post.

Drilling and using t-nuts is a good option. Just confirm there is nothing under the playfield where you are drilling.

Nope, I do this all the time. Just make sure your machine post and tnut gets more than a thread or 2 into it - should ideally make it all the way to the bottom.

I recently had a customer request a yellow ramp for Gold Wings...I never really gave this color a thought until now, but it could definitely work on some machines. I think I would need to change some bulbs back to white in order to pull it off.

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@jodyG, is that top left "roller coaster" ramp attainable at all? i simply can't make that shot.

Mine is set up that it has to be hit juuuuust right, but I like it that way. Its definitely a fidgety mech to get right, and im not sure mine was in the factory form when I got it. I make the shot about every 1 in 5 attemps, which still lets me get the extra ball occasionally.

Picked up another one of my grail pins. Getting it cleaned up to set it next to my Spiderman.

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I had that pair for a while. Couldn't get rid of Spiderman fast enough, had to sell Hulk kicking and screaming. great game. I hope someday I come into another one.

Interesting. I restored a Hulk last year and sold to a guy in Sacramento. Was happy to get rid of it since the ball kickers in the lower playfield make the game play slow. Now am restoring a Spider-Man for my 7yr son.

Wish I could point out what bugged me about Spidey. The Playfield artwork and cabinet were in rough shape on mine and that might have tainted my view of it. I think once I realized I could alley pass the inlanes to boost my bonus multiplier up with consistency made the game extremely dull for me.

I never minded how those slingshot kickers slowed the game down. Plus. Those sounds!

Hulk is on my "one to get" list.

I owned gold wings for 8 years or so. The loop has to be "finessed" to work properly but even then it is not an easy shot. I could get it about one in five trys.
Then i changed the coil to the next strongest one and could get it 60 to 75 % of the time.
Even wth the original coil, if you play it enough that shot can be made.

What's the recommended cleaning solution for restoring System 1-80B aprons? Dish soap & Water?

I hit a System 1 apron with Simple Green and it started making the screen printing run.

Almost everything smears/pulls the ink off, at least on system 1.

80B fans, the ramp for Excalibur is coming up shortly on my to-do list. I think this ramp is almost always broken. If you know anybody in need of one, please have them contact me so I can put them on my list. Drop me a PM with an email address so I can get an accurate count of how many I am going to run initially. Thanks!

Diamond lady. The bottom half of the display fades out from time to time. Top is always good. Ground mods done. If I tap the front of the display it comes back for a while. Any ideas?
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I'm curious about the display voltage and if it's low maybe the upper display is starving the lower? I would think cap but they look to share a common incoming line

Swapped the displays between diamond lady and Monte Carlo and they both seem nice and bright in each. Haha. I’m going to run them for a while and see if anything changes.

Okay confirmed. The issue follows the display. So I guess it’s a power draw issue at one of the caps on the display board.

Never heard of these outgassing, so I assume it can be repaired. Doesn’t look like repros are available.

Beautiful thing about gottliebs, these displays are tough!

The caps do go bad on one of my displays the 470uf cap was bad .....read 360uf and both 10uf caps were bad however I would think that would affect the whole display. would think the problem may be U2 because the actual display looks good as far as brightness but the lack of info and the fact that you tap on it brings it back. I would check the caps and reflow the pins on U2

Thanks so much. Will do.

Sounds like a broken solder joint to the glass display where it meets the board, most likely a power or ground pin. Best to remove the solder on all the pins and resolder them all. I repaired 2 different Gottlieb displays like this.

I've had a couple where this happened...resoldered everything and it melted the pin off when I plugged it in again. I gave up on it at that point.

My Hulk is finally together with my Spider-Man.

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My two favorite System 80Bs.

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The Amazing Spiderman- Game works great. Boards all refurbished. I have an issue with my sound, volume is very low almost non existent, sound board works great in another spiderman cabinet.

My Pot measures 0 ohms to 96 ohms. When I turn the pot its silent until the very end of the turn. Then I get low volume.

Is it possible the pot is worn out? Even though it does measure correct Ohms variance?

Riddle me this sys1/sys80 folks. I have two different displays in my Haunted House. One has two ICs, and one seems to have a few other single strip ICs (please correct me if thats not what those are).

The display with more ICs is noticeably darker than the rest. I have tried toasting the crud off of it with that trick with the end pins and some AC voltage.

So what is the difference between these two?

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The single strip components are resistor networks, not ICs.

I guess that would make sense then. There are a few hacked looking resistors stretched across the board as well. Is this just two different revisions of the same board or some hack work?

I think its not some hackwork. It is a different version with Dionics (level converter) IC's which you don't see often. Not sure if the resistors inside the SIL resistor networks are used as pull-ups or series resitors. At most of these displays UDN6118 or UDN6184 are used. Atari also used Dionics IC's at some of their Gen1 displayboards and the Display Controller in Williams System3-6 games can also be configured for using Dionics level converter IC's.

I think also Hankin used this kind of display?

Good to know! So any reason to believe they’d be noticeably dimmer?

I assumed it was hackwork, just because of that one stray resistor that looks unoriginal.