(Topic ID: 73213)

Home for the Gottlieb SYS1-SYS80B guys, Yep it's a club :)


By Gerry

6 years ago



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There are 3920 posts in this topic. You are on page 79 of 79.
#3901 4 days ago

I just posted an original 80B driver board. I no longer have an 80B machine, but had it repaired to help someone who does.

Parts - For Sale
Used, good condition “A fully functional, OEM Gottlieb driver board. It had burned a transistor for the out-hole solenoid on one of my old machines. It has been repaired and tested. (Photo below shows i...”
4 days ago
Detroit, MI
100

#3902 3 days ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

good to know, i'll try the connector then see if the MPU itself is the issue. that's the problem with only one machine of that generation, i could use a quick swap to check it out if I another GTB SS

My display problems when I aquired mine were all connector related. Those displays are pretty good from what I've experienced.

#3903 3 days ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

First time owner of a SYS80, found myself a pretty beat up Alien Star but I am still happy.
I read pretty much the whole thread and went through Pinwiki, did what I could for now but I still have display issue.
-The game boot right away to all 0's on the display (minus the one not working) but I can coin up and start a game. it plays fine all around after that but I am assume there is some kind of issue with all the 0's and not having the 5 seconds boot up sequence?
-The display have missing segments (Unit on all 4, M's on P2 and 4 and service display completely out! the picture didn't catch P4) i went through some of the pinwiki steps (power tested good, display glass was fine...) but i do not have the material to redo the connector yet.
I see the 24 and 19 EDGE connector are out of stock from GPE... what is the alternative? I would rather buy new ones instead of having to remove all the pins one by one and reuse the connector.
[quoted image]
On a side note, Pinwiki table mention that M's digit out on P2/P4 should be D13 on A1J3-19 with Z18-3 but A1J3 only has a 17 pin connector, am I missing something?
From the picture I think the MPU had quite a bit of work (lots of IC replaced with sockets...) done so after doing the connector if I still have issue I will assume the MPU has issues and a replacement maybe needed...
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

From Clay's repair guide:-

When there is a problem with two (or more) displays, often the problem is
the chips closest to the connectors on the CPU board. This would be
Z19,Z21,Z23 (7448) or Z17,Z24,Z26 (7404).
If there is a Digit problem on two or more of the displays, check these chips.
These chips all go to connector J3. If all displays are missing a digit, suspect
CPU chip Z25. If two displays have a missing digit, suspect chips
Z17,Z24,Z26. If only one display has a missing digit, suspect the display
itself.
CPU chip Z25 (74154) controls the three digit CPU chips Z17,Z24,Z26.
CPU chip Z17 controls player 1, player 3, and the bonus display.
CPU chip Z24 controls player 2, player 4, and the credit/ball count.
CPU chip Z26 controls the the status display.
If there is a Segment problem in two or more of your displays, check these
chips. Remember connector J2 takes the segment lines to the displays. If all
displays have a segment problem, suspect CPU chip Z16. If two displays have
a display problem, suspect chips Z19,Z21,Z23. If one display has a segment
problem, suspect the UDN6116 chip on the display itself.
CPU chip Z16 (7404) is the main segment controlling chip. If a segment
is out on all displays, chances are good Z16 is the problem.
CPU chips Z18,Z20,Z22 (74175) feed Z19,Z21,Z23 (7448)
respectively. If a segment is out on a pair of displays, chances are good
its a 74175/7448 pair that is bad. The Z19,Z21,Z23 (7448) are the
most problematic though (I don't think I have ever changed a 74175 to
fix a segment problem).
CPU chips Z18,Z19 control segments on players 1 and 2 displays.
34 of 68

#3904 3 days ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

My display problems when I aquired mine were all connector related. Those displays are pretty good from what I've experienced.

that is my first priority though GPE is backup and now allowing order at the moment so it will have to wait unfortunately

#3905 3 days ago
Quoted from Andy_B:

If there is a Digit problem on two or more of the displays, check these chips.
These chips all go to connector J3. If all displays are missing a digit, suspect
CPU chip Z25. If two displays have a missing digit, suspect chips
Z17,Z24,Z26. If only one display has a missing digit, suspect the display
itself.
CPU chip Z25 (74154) controls the three digit CPU chips Z17,Z24,Z26.
CPU chip Z17 controls player 1, player 3, and the bonus display.
CPU chip Z24 controls player 2, player 4, and the credit/ball count.
CPU chip Z26 controls the the status display.

thanks that is helpful, based on the above and the table from Pinwiki, it would be worth trying to replace Z26 since my P2&4 M's digit is out on boath display as well as the whole Status display.
Since the Unit digit is missing on all 4 display i'll try to change the Z25 based on above too.

I can get those from a shop 10 minutes away compared to hard to find Edge connector for now...

#3906 3 days ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

On a side note, Pinwiki table mention that M's digit out on P2/P4 should be D13 on A1J3-19 with Z18-3 but A1J3 only has a 17 pin connector, am I missing something?

80A - Millions digit - on players 2&4 is D12. A1J3-12. Z26 pin2

In fact all of your display issues seem related to Z26. (maybe someone unplugged connectors with the power on? do not do this.)
D12: A1J3-12 Z26 pin2 80A - Millions digit - on players 2&4
D13: A1J3-13 Z26 pin4 80A - RH most digit of status display
D14: A1J3-14 Z26 pin6 80A - middle RH digit of status display
D15: A1J3-15 Z26 pin10 80A - middle LH digit of status display
D16: A1J3-16 Z26 pin8 80A - Ones digit - on players 1&3 and LH most digit of status display

Power off while making these display swaps:
Try each 7-digit display in player 1. only one display plugged in at a time.
Try each 7-digit display in player 3. only one display plugged in at a time.
does each display behave the same as in your picture above when in those locations?

For the status/credit display.
Is +42V DC present out of the power supply? if no, check CR6 and R5 on PS.
+42VDC at the display?
Proper VAC at the display?
Glass is still in good condition? (black dots in top left & bottom right corners still present?)
if white dots glass is NG.

#3907 3 days ago
Quoted from REGNE:

Power off while making these display swaps:
Try each 7-digit display in player 1. only one display plugged in at a time.
Try each 7-digit display in player 3. only one display plugged in at a time.
does each display behave the same as in your picture above when in those locations?

Will try that today, thank you!

Quoted from REGNE:

For the status/credit display.
Is +42V DC present out of the power supply? if no, check CR6 and R5 on PS.
+42VDC at the display?
Proper VAC at the display?
Glass is still in good condition? (black dots in top left & bottom right corners still present?)
if white dots glass is NG.

Yes on all the above, i check the power on the display, both VDC and AC were good and the one black dot (and nipple) looks fine as well. I am ordering a spare from PBR just in case though.

#3908 3 days ago

Just when you think you are out, they pull you back in...

I picked up a nice BH this weekend. It came with all the usual electrical gremlins, but I should be able to get it working soon.

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#3909 3 days ago
Quoted from uncivil_engineer:

Just when you think you are out, they pull you back in...
I picked up a nice BH this weekend. It came with all the usual electrical gremlins, but I should be able to get it working soon.[quoted image]

Looks pretty nice from here!

#3910 3 days ago

So I'm getting ready to test the power supply in the Force 2 I just picked up and I'm pulling up a schematic for the voltages and pins. I usually use the System 80 Service Manual since the power supply doesn't change until 80B.

http://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/PDF%20Pinball%20Misc/System80%20Service%20Manual.pdf

So I see this? Anybody spot the problem?
pasted_image (resized).png

#3911 3 days ago

I'm not a fan of that schematic as it can make a pin to pin match up confusing. I have a better pic and the update for it.
-Mike

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#3912 3 days ago
Quoted from Grizlyrig:

I'm not a fan of that schematic as it can make a pin to pin match up confusing. I have a better pic and the update for it.
-Mike
[quoted image][quoted image]

thanks for this!

#3913 2 days ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

Will try that today, thank you!

Yes on all the above, i check the power on the display, both VDC and AC were good and the one black dot (and nipple) looks fine as well. I am ordering a spare from PBR just in case though.

Well, all pretty strange, took off the MPU to change Z26 and after putting it back in, everything worked! i feel like there is some bad connector contact somewhere for sure...

When the bakcboard is out of the back box everything is sharp though sometime when i push it back in and it drops in its resting place the display seriously dim to a point you can barely see the status.
Below is V reading test from display from when they are out or when they are in.

Board open
status/credit: 2.8VAC, 42.9VDC & 6VDC
P4: 5.9VAC, 61.0VDC & 6.0VDC

Board close in its resting position
status/credit: 2.8VAC, 17.1VDC & 6VDC
P4: 5.9VAC, 34.5VDC & 6.0VDC

Looks like the 40/60VDC drops quite a bit... any thoughts? Grounding issue to display or voltage itself?

#3914 2 days ago

I’m in need of a scan of a Rock manual. If anyone has one, please send me a PM.

EDIT - Copy has been obtained. Thanks for the support.

#3915 2 days ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

Looks like the 40/60VDC drops quite a bit... any thoughts? Grounding issue to display or voltage itself?

Different voltage based on the position of the backboard?
Sounds like terminals and/or cold solder joint on PS.

Repin A1J3. Repin all PS connectors. Check the PS pins for cold solder joints as well and reflow or replace.
Need to get your voltages stable.

#3916 2 days ago
Quoted from REGNE:

Different voltage based on the position of the backboard?
Sounds like terminals and/or cold solder joint on PS.

Repin A1J3. Repin all PS connectors. Check the PS pins for cold solder joints as well and reflow or replace.
Need to get your voltages stable.

Make sense, thank you. I was waiting for GPE to reopen orders so I can get EDGE contact. Are the "08-50-0134 / 08-52-0072" the right one for these SYS80A connector? Not the "Bifurcated" ones right?

I was wondering if there was ground mod for the displays as well? Would a flaky ground to the display impact reliable VDC?

#3917 1 day ago

Update, so I replaced u4, and z11-z14 and game is back up and running and switches work. Only things not working is the feature lamps in attract mode only. Lamps light fine in game play mode, which has got me baffled. Not sure where to go from here, so any help would be greatly appreciated
Game worked fine until I hooked up the #5 kicking target, that was previously disconnected by someone

#3918 1 day ago

On my Black Hole (and a number of my Gottlieb games), I've noticed that a lot of the plastics have broken/warped themselves in part due to posts wooden star post screws just blowing out of their socket in high impact areas or areas where the rubber tension is high.

Does anybody see any issue with just drilling those holes through and replacing the bare wooden hole with metal T-Nut receiver for more strength or am I really better off just doweling and re-drilling with the original post.

#3919 1 day ago
Quoted from radial_head:

On my Black Hole (and a number of my Gottlieb games), I've noticed that a lot of the plastics have broken/warped themselves in part due to posts wooden star post screws just blowing out of their socket in high impact areas or areas where the rubber tension is high.
Does anybody see any issue with just drilling those holes through and replacing the bare wooden hole with metal T-Nut receiver for more strength or am I really better off just doweling and re-drilling with the original post.

Drilling and using t-nuts is a good option. Just confirm there is nothing under the playfield where you are drilling.

#3920 1 day ago
Quoted from radial_head:

Does anybody see any issue with just drilling those holes through and replacing the bare wooden hole with metal T-Nut receiver for more strength or am I really better off just doweling and re-drilling with the original post.

Nope, I do this all the time. Just make sure your machine post and tnut gets more than a thread or 2 into it - should ideally make it all the way to the bottom.

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There are 3920 posts in this topic. You are on page 79 of 79.

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