After checking the fuse, check the pop bumper driver board. Pretty sure this game only has one.

i'm not sure. i just know that the manual says the tilt should go to the main board via A1J6-7, and i have no wire there. If you look at the post 3628 and from there, it appears from the people who chimed in, that the manual is wrong. This weekend i hope to install the new diode and see if that is the problem.

Countdown now at work in our physical therapy department for use by staff and patients.

20200703_120559 (resized).jpg

20200703_120652 (resized).jpg

Need some help with MGOW... I have an issue with the 6x multiplier light and need some guidance. Q33 was bad and that corrected the issue initially. While converting to LEDs I also noticed the socket was bad so I replaced it. The lamp no longer lights and Q33 is fine. Not sure what else to check. Any thoughts? Thanks

I'm having a weird issue with sound on Hollywood heat. The board wasn't booting and measuring across c18 only gave .5 volts. I recrimped the output on the power supply and verified 5vdc at the sounds board connector.
But still .5vdc across c18 and board doesn't boot.
So I ran a jumper wire from power supply C2 right side to C18 bottom on the sound board and it worked.

I forgot to test continuity on the wire from the power supply to the sound board. I'll do that next.

Is it possible that something is pulling the 5v low? My guess is it would pull it low just as low with the jumper.

So it has to be a wiring issue correct?

As mentioned in many threads & posts. It comes down to not enough power getting through to the flippers. Mainly eos switch problems. PBR has been contacted. Thanks again all.

I’m gonna check out a Monte Carlo pin soon. Priced at $1,000,plays and has the topper. What should I look out for on this title. Thanks

Ramp is almost always broken....i'm working on it!

Agreed and great news!

I would also add that Marco and PBR have a few of the game specific parts for this but it's a no go for any plastics or the translite for this game from what I've found.

Always nice to see a Count-Down out in the wild!

Monte Carlo owners...im going to be running some of these this weekend. Drop me a PM if you would like to get on the list. These are 50% thicker and stronger than the original. (Note- the edges are a bit rough on this test piece in the photo)

20200709_193600 (resized).jpg

JodyG, you're a saint

Does anybody have teardown pics for Mars God of War? I'm putting together a machine that I picked up that had the majority of the topside torn down. Need to verify post placement and general top side parts. Any leads appreciated!

Have a look at the shopout pictures in the Mars God of War machine gallery:

https://pinside.com/pinball/machine/mars-god-of-war/gallery

Getting a Panthera soon and it’s missing the power supply. What are my options on replacement? I’d rather not buy from rottendog if I can help it.

Thanks!

Need new spinner switches for ROCK but PBR is out of B-19354.

This is an assembly of a switch + bracket, does anyone have a part number for the switch by itself?

Marco carries the one from Gulf Pinball, which seems to be a poor mans clone of the GPE design.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/MA-114

You can also get in touch with Fred Swemmer to see if he has any at the moment.

get a ".. 5A DC-DC Boost Buck Step-down Constant Voltage Current LCD Power Supply Module .." for 8 bucks and you are done.
for a 6.5V - 36V input you get a regulated 1.2V - 36V output , and is rated for 4 amps. you can get the less luxury one without a display with 5 bucks.
I got the cheaper version and works fine on my Robowar.
I know the opinion some people have for Chinese products but often you get quality items for really super price.

Screenshot_20200717-165452_eBay (resized).jpg

What does this do exactly? Replace the stock power supply? I already bought a replacement board.

On another topic, I picked up a Raven in real bad shape ,the play field is completely shot. i guess the original clear coat has turned brown and is flaking off but the residual stuff will not come up with anything i have tried so I have decided to re theme it. I have an idea on how to use something else for the sound board but my question is this. The board has 5 inputs ...Sound 1 ,Sound 2 ,Sound 4, Sound 8 and sound 16 which is a single line from the A9 , I'm thinking they use a single binary code to make 16 different sounds so if the board gets a low input on 1 ,2 and 4 it decodes that to play sound 7 ....Am I in the right ball park or am I out in left field ?

Nice job man that looks great.

Where can I buy the game EPROMs for Panthera?

Pinball Resource has all the ROMS to Gottlieb games. Just ask for the latest revision.

I did. They said they don’t have them. Reading their response again they recommended this place:

www.flippers.com

Anyone use them?

Haven’t used them yet but that is John’s Jukes.

https://www.flippers.com/catalog/product_info.php/gottlieb-game-sound-promepromgals-p-2802

FYI: there’s a note on the page for Panthera that you’ll receive a single EPROM instead of two, so you may need to perform some jumpering if your board hasn’t already been modified for a single EPROM.

.

Okay cool. I’ll buy this and look into the modification from one EPROM instead of 2. Thanks!

I have used johns jukes.
He has some obscure parts and charges a premium for them. If you need it, he is often times the only source around.
HOWEVER: service is top notch. Turn around is quick from there to boston. Shipping is reasonable.
Extremely helpful over the phone and via email. You will get what you ask for.
Deal with confidence.

Weird issue with Hollywood Heat, hoping for some assistance. L40 the “B” lamp which is driven by Q41 on the driver board is dead. Q41 checked ok but I replaced anyway, same issue persists. I also replaced the socket without success. Not sure where to go next... thoughts?

1) Check continuity from lamp to driver board. (to rule our wiring & edge connecter terminal)

then check driver board:
2) R41 is not open (has resistance)
3) then check 74175 (latch flip flop) at Z11. Pin 2.

REGNE thanks, I have continuity from the lamp to the connector. I will check to Q41 as well. I swapped The Driver and MPU and the issue remained. Is there a diode somewhere that could cause the issue?

Yes, that's correct, but sometimes they send a series of codes that will do alternate functions.... and sometimes the sound board itself decides to play one sound out of 2 or 3.

There was a map somewhere I remember seeing of the 'common' codes (like tilt, no sound, game start, etc.) that are the same for each game but I've no idea where I saw it or how long ago it was.

My edit above does you no good since you swapped the driver and MPU. I still think it's 1).

Yes. check from lamp onto PCB. rule out that edge connector pin. also check other side of the lamp is connected to other working lamps.
& I believe all diodes are in the switch matrix, so no diode.

Thanks slochar . I have been troubleshooting the old board for a noise problem and realize its a beast, the actual songs are made on several different chips and mixed at the final output amp. I built an led decoder to look at the inputs and try and decode some of the sound commands. I figure it this way the old ems only used three chimes so if I can figure out a way to to play a couple of songs and get 16 wav sounds I will be happy. Anything is better than the cheesy sound effects the machine comes with

ok so I'm definitely deep in it and determined to figure this out. sound one ,two,four and eight are 1 millisecond triggers. sound 16 is strange it either stays low or goes high depending on whats going on in the play field. right now I think it mostly controls what song is being played but, it also moves intermittently to create certain sounds. Since there are 15 possible commands on lines one,2,4 and 8 that would mean there are 30 possible commands due to the function of sound 16. What makes this difficult is that to make a machine gun noise the control actually spits out 5 triggers on the one line that makes the single gunshot sound. I'm thinking I can use a 4 line in to 16 line out converter with a long delay de-bounce circuit and a wave trigger board for the normal sounds and call outs and an mp3 trigger with a modified trigger circuit using sound 16 to select the songs

Hi Pinsiders. I am trying to track down a part from a Gottlieb System 80 Multi-ball Gate Mechanism. This gate is used on Black Hole, Devil's Dare, Mars God of War, Volcano and several others. Gottlieb lists the part number as A-20606 and describes it as a "gate". The pictures show the entire unit and the part that I need. Steve at Pinball Resource doesn't have any of them left so I am reaching out to you guys. If anyone has a spare A-20606 "Gate" or has the complete unit I will gladly purchase either. Please shoot me a PM if you have one you can part with.

Many Thanks

Ken

Gottlieb Ball Lock (resized).jpg

Gottlieb A-20606 Gate (resized).jpg

Gottlieb Ball Gate (resized).jpg

Just realized Panthera has a plastic spinner. Bummer. Haha. Anyway the metal gottlieb spinner can be installed?

Does anyone have a J2 connector for a system 80b control board? Thanks!

Both of mine have plastic too probably all Gottlieb used in the early boards.

Yeah metal isn’t stock by any means, just wanted to maybe mod the game for a metal one to get better rippage

I need a little board assistance:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/best-way-to-fix-this-board#post-5761680

I think I got what your looking for.(see picture for match)
Funny I’ve got an old Genesis playfield mostly parted out, when I looked almost all mechs are missing then crazy enough here is the part you need dangling from part of the leftover wiring harness, not connected to anything, lol.

I feel like God must have wanted you to have it, since it was missed and left hanging there when the playfield was parted out.
If you wanna pay for shipping I’ll send it your way.

Just pm me your address.

Bud

C406B596-4F81-47E1-9CB9-2AD08EA21431 (resized).jpeg

Thanks Bud! PM Sent.

Would anyone have the paint codes for the purple paint on the cabinet of Hulk? Are they even available somewhere, or is it best to just match with color swatches on a per machine basis? Thanks

Does anybody replace their crappy eaten up non-adhesive pop bumper mylar with adhesive mylar rings? Suggestions?

I have done it on 2 machines and I think it works great. the bad part pulling the bumper cleaning underneath it and reassembly

I'm getting a tilt and game over randomly on joker poker. Slam switches are gapped wide for home use, same with plumb bob. Tried to run a switch test, can get switch in the display, but cant figure out how to run test. Any ideas on tilting and how to run test? Ni wumph and rotten dog

Yes. Definitely not looking forward to this part...

it's not to bad, the de-soldering and re-soldering of the light socket wires is really the only pain part. i've done it on several machines, although the ones I cleared I did not put a mylar ring back. be sure and wax good before sticking the new ring down.