Hey Gang,

Has anyone re-pinned the A1J1 (+5V) connector on a system 80B?

I think these pins from Ed would work [08-52-0072]

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=08-52-0072

I can’t quite figure out how the existing pins come out, though . Do you need the molex removal tool for this connector or is there an alternative approach?

All the parts needed here.
https://www.docentelectronics.com/httpdocs/AmusementGames/Pinball/Gottlieb/system%2080%20AB.htm

A video that shows the pin removal.

Thanks! My A1J1 connector doesn't have the little slots like in the video but it helps to visually see where the tail is on the pin so that I can try to disengage it.

Love quirky sounds of the older Gottlieb games. Especially Totem!

Anyone have a Gold Wings Topper For sale; working or not? If so, please PM. Thanks!

Does anybody know the must do mods specifically on a BoneBusters.
Is there a Checklist of things?

Well I replaced the interconnect cable, replaced the pins in the mpu connectors and.. nothing. Just 000000 on the displays. Not even kicking out a ball from the saucer or 70 on the display.

Anyone have an aftermarket system one MPU for sale? Hate to use it for parts.

Hey now progress!

Have a 5 second boot up now! Replaced the Z29 buffer chip and this got me out of slam tilt mode.

Now I get coin up tones, start tones and the first step of the diagnostics which will power up the flippers , outhole and popper. The MPU is seeing the switch matrix too.

Displays are good and sharp.

20200609_175409 (resized).jpg

Newish to System 80. My (rather ugly) Alien Star won’t play a game after sitting for a couple months.

I reseated some connectors to get it to come on and it did start a game, but all solenoids and switches are unresponsive.

What should I be looking for? Any connectors in particular?

Thanks a bunch everyone.

Looking for 80b TX-Sector sound help. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tx-sector-80b-no-sound

Anyone have a “family friendly” Bad Girls alternate translite? I’ve seen some alternates that were less family friendly than the original but nothing the other way. If someone has a Photoshop file with correct sizing and placement of the display cutouts, that would help too. Thanks!

Hi guys,

Just got a Supet Orbit with a very loud humming sound coming from the speakers.
Any known part that could be causing that?

Thanks

Just picked up a Mars God of War. Anyone have a pdf service manual? Thanks!

No one?

Ok, i got this weird ROM problem, after i did some romchip juggling (to test MPU board from a Goldwings) my comrade managed to put int he ROM2 chip in backwards in my Hollywood Heat MPU, which we all know pops the chip dead, so i got the "Missing ROM2" message after booting HH up, and i figured i do a quick reburn a new ROM2 with a brand new chip, and now the "Missing ROM2" message is gone, but the game doesnt boot anymore, it lights up the backbox and a load of lamps on the playfield and also have a section of attractmode going (Extra ball and Bonus multiplier strips) but nothing more, even with the quick ON/OFF trick. did i burn the romchip wrong? faulty but brand new chip? is there some trick to burning Gottlieb roms? i used the modded "free credits" Roms you can get from flipprojets.fr and changed the dipswitches to match.

Nihonmasa Not sure if this title has a line filter, but if so, I’d check that. I’ve found most Gottlieb speaker hum issues were ground related.

Anyone have a nice scan/actual size pdf of this section of the Arena playfield?

D9146E50-CBB6-48D0-BB84-B51AB3F434AA (resized).jpeg

I have a blank digit on my credits/ball in play display, System 1. Can anyone provide a (portion of) picture of the schematic of this display board?

Sys 1 Credit Display Schematic (resized).png

Cheddar, thank you. Does this mean Z1 is not used for anything on this board????

Z1 is used as an input to Z2 pin 2. Between the connector and Z2

OK..I see it now. My D7 display is blank. So if I don't have a bad connection somewhere, and my MPU is good, then I can assume the Z3 is defective?

I see Z3 can also be tested. With the power off, disconnect the display and use a DMM set to diode function:

Red DMM lead on udn6116 chip ground (pin 9)
Black DMM lead on udn6116 pin 2 to pin 8 - reading of .5 to .7 should be seen.
Black DMM lead on udn6116 pin 11 to pin 17 - a null (no reading) should be seen.
Sound like a plan?

I have never done this but that sounds like a plan

If anyone needs a spare System 80b MPU board and driver board, I have a set for sale. See my ad for details.

Looking for a working sys80 Mpu and driver for my MGOW. Pm if you have. Thanks

I wound up hand painting mine after the tedious task of hand mixing colors to match. Then I clear coated.. Seems to be a very common wear area on that game. Sadly, I no longer have the game. I DO have scans of the rest of the playfield that was no missing paint on mine.

20180526_120400 (resized).jpg

20180526_135642 (resized).jpg

Ordered a new MPU from PBR. I could muck around with the OEM board for weeks and it still could have a bad spider chip.

Cleaned all the inserts and made sure all the lamps were working and refreshed the power board and reflowed its headers.

20200618_175553 (resized).jpg

Well this is awkward.. I got the System One board to work. After replacing the outhole driver on the driver board, I did some work on the MPU and brought it back to full operation.

So when the aftermarket MPU shows up send it back or keep it?

20200622_094420 (resized).jpg

20200622_085455 (resized).jpg

The new MPU I have has a new rule set options you can use, I think it really helps me enjoy Cleopatra.
Extra ball, high score recall and skill shot options makes the game a bit better.

Ended up canceling the MPU order, its working well and I think I'll be moving it along in the near future. It is pretty fun to play but not a big drop target fan.

I'll be able to list it for less without a new MPU baked into the pie.

Can anyone help me with sys 80 flippers. They are weak. Feels like the ball is too heavy for the flipper or the flipper is dragging. I've tried cleaning, adjusting, rebuilds to no avail. I'm at my wits end with these Gottliebs. Bally's, no problem. Adjust & go, strong as hell. Any direction or guidence is much appreciated. Thanks. Scott

did you check what voltage you get at the flipper coils?

I'm heading in that direction. As well as cleaning and recleaning all switch contacts involved. Including q & t relays as mentioned in other posts. Its been frustating to me. 3 seperate games with weak ass flippers! Thanks for the response. I'll report back.

Seems like the first thing you'd want to check, no?

I guess, start with how much voltage is at your outlets, then you know what your games are getting.
Then you could go down and check voltage at the test points to make sure the boards/transformer have good voltage, then move to power at the coil(s). If this is your first time doing this, yes it can be overwhelming and daunting, however just ask questions, do some googling and focus on one thing at at time.

I actually find the Gottliebs are very sensitive to flipper pivot and sleeve condition and usually the first thing I look at along with EOS switch.

How do I check voltage at the flipper coil?

Put the game to on/attract mode. Get your DMM and set to DC voltage. Black lead goes to cabinet ground. Red goes to the power leg of any coil. You should read a voltage. The manual should state the voltage it should be.

Refiled down switches. Ever so slightly better. Having trouble getting voltage readings?

What trouble are you having?

Another tip...take care when tightening the flipper crank to the shaft of the flipperbat. When it is too low, the whole flippercrank will rest on the lower bearing and when it too high you will get a sticky flipper. The last issue most of us will be aware of, but with the double bearing baseplates Gottlieb uses in system 1 and ststem 80, the first will be an issue too and you will loose power. It can be a bit of a hassle to get the crank floating between the 2 nylon bearings.

Thanks for all the tips everyone. Just need to work through some of this.

I’m troubleshooting a coil not firing on my sopranos and was documenting tests via video but haven’t finished...

Thought I'd throw this out here in this thread to see if anybody has any suggestions, I've got an Amazing Spiderman System 80 that locks up after it's sat in attract mode for 5 or 6 hours. I know that's not really that big of a deal, but it's still kind of weird, something is going on there.

Ni-Wumpf MPU Board
Ni-Wumpf Driver Board
Gulf Pinball Power Board
New capacitor in the transformer board
New bridge rectifier in the transformer board
Seperate grounds back to the power supply (ground mod)
The extra 2 wires added into the interconnect
CPU harness repinned (the 5 volt/ground connection from the power supply)

Game plays great no issues and all the boards are new except the sound board. Power supply voltage is at 5.05 and 5.04 on the cpu and driver....

It's just a little bit of an annoying issue, it wouldn't be able to be operated like that (as if anybody's still operating System 80's much).

It has a slight heat component to it, once it locks up if you turn it off and back on it immediately boots and plays fine... but it will lock up in a couple hours instead of 5 hours.

When it locks up it kind of just freezes where it is (in attract).... so the score displays are still lit, the lights on the playfield are still lit (whichever one was lit up)... it's as if the game has just frozen in the middle of the attract mode it's in. No coils or anything lock on, and the displays are legible and just look as if it's stopped where it was.

The Ni-Wumpf board is an early one, I think serial number in the 300's, it's one of the ones where they had to preprogram it to whatever game you wanted. These machines have so many ground issues and things I hate to bug Ace about it possibly being the MPU if somebody's seen something similar but I'm kind of running out of grounds to fix

Have a System 1 game, TOTEM, with Ni-Wumpf MPU and original driver board and PS. Game is shopped and plays great except for the tilt bob functionality. The bob is new and all metal contacting parts are clean. It takes repeatedly HARD hits to tilt the game. Normal bumps of the bob into the brass ring do not tilt the game. I've read this problem on other postings and other websites, and it seems to pertain only to System 1 games running the Ni-Wumpf. I have the original version Ni-Wumpf, and they deny there is any issue with their board. Interesting however, the Version II board has settings for tilt that my version doesn't have.

Anyway, has anyone here ever dealt with this tilt bob problem, and any solution out there?

I have an issue on my Joker Poker. Tilt bob doesnt work. i have found that the wiring in my machine doesn't match the manual, but also looks original. I have also now found a blown diode for the playfield tilt that seems to have the tilt bob running through it as well. i have a new diode, just haven't installed yet.

look at post 3584 and 3635 in this thread.

I'm going off random memories, didn't they run a few tilt/slam switches off eachother? I know many disable the slam switches to stop any random slam/tilts.

Just picked up a Hot Shots. The Pop Bumper coil doesn’t fire but the spoon switch registers points. Diode is good, haven’t checked the coil yet. Any other feedback on what I should be looking for?

Also need a manual if anyone has one on electronic form. Thanks

Check the pop bumper board fuse.
F15 under the playfield.