(Topic ID: 73213)

Home for the Gottlieb SYS1-SYS80B guys, Yep it's a club :)


By Gerry

6 years ago



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There are 3697 posts in this topic. You are on page 74 of 74.
#3651 18 days ago
Quoted from BorgDog:

nice Alien Star. I like the narrow door much better on this one, shows much more of the stencil artwork.

Agreed!

#3652 16 days ago

Question, I recently bought a decent Haunted House and have started to break it down to do a thorough cleaning and refurbishment. After taking the lower playfield out, I noticed that only the L/H speaker is connected to the wires. I do not see any other wires capped and stowed to connect to the R/H speaker. If I am reading the wiring diagram correctly, the two speakers should be 4 ohm speakers each not sure if they are 6" or 6.5" until I measure them and connected in series? For both speakers to be working, should I just connect the positive wire, not sure which one yet, to the + on the left speaker and the negative wire to the - on the right speaker and jumper the L/H - and R/H + connections? I think the wiring diagram said the speakers were 8 watt, if I put a 4 ohm, but say 20 watt speaker in, is this bad? Is there a recommended replacement speaker?

Would there be any reason to NOT have the left speaker hooked up, unless it is just blown?

Thankful for any help.

speaker (resized).jpg
#3653 16 days ago

Can someone do me a HUGE favor? My best friend has a Gottlieb SS Cleopatra and I want to buy specific LEDS for it. However, the manual is not downloadable. I don’t want to buy an LED kit. I want to choose the LEDS myself. However, I need the total number of bulbs in the entire machine (backbox, GI, inserts). I know, total pain, but I wanna get him all the LEDS he needs for his birthday as a surprise. Thank all!!!

#3654 13 days ago

Ok, so after doing some more checking, the playfield tilt goes through an IN270 diode that appears to be bad, checked with my meter on Diode setting. None of the usual suspects seem to have that diode, is there a possible substitution? I have some other diodes in my stock, perhaps one might work. All help is appreciated.

#3655 13 days ago

Thanks again for the scans gdonovan !

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#3656 13 days ago
Quoted from dahlman:

Thanks again for the scans gdonovan ! [quoted image]

Glad to be of service.

#3657 12 days ago

Hello gottlieb guys and girls. I'm working on a Night Moves. Someone had completely removed the entire right flipper mecs from the underside of the playfield. I've ordered all the parts from PBR and was informed that the flipper return spring is discontinued. I was sent an A779 spring as a replacement. Can someone please confirm that I have this spring ran correctly.

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#3658 12 days ago

No it is not. On those newer style 80B mechs, the return spring runs from the other side of the crank (above the switch leaves) and is hooked on the most far wire lug which needs to be reinstalled here with the lug facing upwards. There are 2 installed here but you only need to use only one, most far from the crank. This wire lug needs to be isolated from the switch leaves. Rotating the lane changes switch leaves would do the trick if it is a seperate stack.

Quoted from swampshroom:

Hello gottlieb guys and girls. I'm working on a Night Moves. Someone had completely removed the entire right flipper mecs from the underside of the playfield. I've ordered all the parts from PBR and was informed that the flipper return spring is discontinued. I was sent an A779 spring as a replacement. Can someone please confirm that I have this spring ran correctly.

#3659 11 days ago

Hey all, just acquired a Gold Wings with a ton of issues, lucky me! I’ve worked though most of them... over fused, bad transistors and bad diodes. I’m down to the end with a couple issues and need some assistance from the community.

Top right flasher (blue, sol 6) isn’t working, the left/right thruster and cockpit lamps (Q3, 4, 5 test good) aren’t working. Also, the upper left flipper isn’t working.

Any assistance is appreciated! Thanks

Added 10 days ago:

Fixed all issues. Lamps were bad resistors.

#3660 11 days ago
Quoted from Cherga:

Hey all, just acquired a Gold Wings with a ton of issues, lucky me! I’ve worked though most of them... over fused, bad transistors and bad diodes. I’m down to the end with a couple issues and need some assistance from the community.
Top right flasher (blue, sol 6) isn’t working, the left/right thruster and cockpit lamps (Q3, 4, 5 test good) aren’t working. Also, the upper left flipper isn’t working.
Any assistance is appreciated! Thanks

Make sure cockpit lights are 44 incandescent bulbs, the sockets are wired in series for them and led wont work.

#3661 11 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Make sure cockpit lights are 44 incandescent bulbs, the sockets are wired in series for them and led wont work.

They’re incandescent

#3662 11 days ago

Upper left flipper working now (corroded switch... filed contacts). Still chasing the other issues.

#3663 11 days ago
Quoted from Cherga:

Upper left flipper working now.

Because magic?

#3664 11 days ago

Did you do the driver board ground upgrade?
I've got information about this upgrade that will combine all 16 ground wires on the driver board.
Not just one additional wire....
Gottlieb_System-80_Driver_board_Ground_update.pdf

#3665 10 days ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

Did you do the driver board ground upgrade?
I've got information about this upgrade that will combine all 16 ground wires on the driver board.
Not just one additional wire....
[quoted image]

The cabinet ground mods were already done when I acquired the machine. I haven’t done the driver board ground update. Another issue I left out was the music cuts out during gameplay, almost always when starting the second ball. I’ve changed out sound boards and the behavior remains.

#3666 10 days ago

Could someone please post a picture of Gold Wings underside of playfield... specifically need close up of upper right flasher (blue), there are two resistors wired and one is fried. Manual says it should be a single 8 ohm 5w. I also need lane change wiring photo... my wires were disconnected. I found one but not the other(s). Thanks

#3667 10 days ago
Quoted from Cherga:

Could someone please post a picture of Gold Wings underside of playfield... specifically need close up of upper right flasher (blue), there are two resistors wired and one is fried. Manual says it should be a single 8 ohm 5w. I also need lane change wiring photo... my wires were disconnected. I found one but not the other(s). Thanks

I’ll try to snap a few after I get the kids in bed.
Be about an hour.

#3668 10 days ago
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#3669 10 days ago
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#3670 10 days ago
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#3671 10 days ago

When loading straight from my IPhone it turns all of the pictures sideways, sorry I’m not a techy enough guy to figure out why that’s happening.

You may notice I added several spotlights (extra wires soldered into the GI) and multiple extra GI light sockets. So some of the sockets on mine won’t be theee on yours.

Let me know if you need others.

#3672 9 days ago

jeep-mustang thank you very much for the pictures, I really appreciate it! I like he extra lighting idea and may do they same. Would you mind measuring the resistance of the smaller resistor at the upper left (blue) flasher and letting me know what it is?

#3673 9 days ago

Struggling to get my Alien Star to boot, all I am getting is a 0 on player one display.

Voltages are good on psu board.
Ground mods done to the mpu board and driver board.
Not done cabinet ground mods as already there from factory.
Two orange caps replaced for 15,000uf cap
Dallas reset mod done
New Crystal
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#3674 8 days ago

Can someone please post the resistor values for Gold Wings top right (blue) flasher? There are two wired on mine, one is a 4ohm 10w however the other is fried and unreadable. Thanks!

#3675 7 days ago
Quoted from Cherga:

Can someone please post the resistor values for Gold Wings top right (blue) flasher? There are two wired on mine, one is a 4ohm 10w however the other is fried and unreadable. Thanks!

The manual says 8 ohm 5W wire wound.

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#3676 7 days ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

The manual says 8 ohm 5W wire wound.[quoted image]

I’m assuming the fried resistor in the attached picture is 4 ohm to make the 8 ohm as listed in the manual... thoughts?

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#3677 7 days ago

Anyone know where I could get a new sound board for bad girls?

#3678 6 days ago

Just picked up a Night Moves.

Game will play but w/o display or sound. Going through and diagnosing, looking for things to fix.

One thing I noticed is the replacement power board references MA-645, however the manual calls for MA-831. Is this a potential problem?

I found a different 80b upgraded power supply board for sale which references the proper part number, and it looks different from the one that's installed on my machine. ebay.com link » New Gottlieb System 80b And System 3 5v Power Supply Ma 831 Ma 1359

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#3679 6 days ago

I don't recognize who made it, but that's an aftermarket power supply.

#3680 6 days ago

Nice score, always wanted a Night Moves. Definitely aftermarket. Not sure if this is the same board (looks like it to me based on picture) but Marco has this listed as an 80B power supply replacement.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/MA-645

Have you confirmed 5VDC from the power supply?

#3681 5 days ago
Quoted from pincity:

Nice score, always wanted a Night Moves. Definitely aftermarket. Not sure if this is the same board (looks like it to me based on picture) but Marco has this listed as an 80B power supply replacement.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/MA-645
Have you confirmed 5VDC from the power supply?

A good thing to check but would not be playing if no 5V.

Power supply looks a Gulf unit which is reliable.

Clean the edge connectors on the MPU, the display won't work if communication is lost with MPU. Most common problem.

#3682 5 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

A good thing to check but would not be playing if no 5V.
Power supply looks a Gulf unit which is reliable.
Clean the edge connectors on the MPU, the display won't work if communication is lost with MPU. Most common problem.

Good to know, thanks! Prev owner also replaced the MPU with a new Swemmer. But Connectors in general are also on my list to look into once I figure out how!

#3683 5 days ago
Quoted from pincity:

Nice score, always wanted a Night Moves. Definitely aftermarket. Not sure if this is the same board (looks like it to me based on picture) but Marco has this listed as an 80B power supply replacement.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/MA-645
Have you confirmed 5VDC from the power supply?

Trying to figure out how to do that exactly... mostly not sure where to place my multimeter leads to measure that. I *think* I'm starting to figure out that there are certain individual pins on the board connector that I need to measure, but haven't tried it out yet.

#3684 3 days ago

My first System 1; It had been in a basement for the last 30 years dead with no key for the head. I drilled the lock and this is what I found behind the backglass, a very unmolested unit back there. The tilt wiring and outhole had been disconnected in the cabinet for some reason, undoubtedly an attempt to "repair" the unit after the battery leaked.

I repaired the tilt wiring and outhole switch, pulled the battery off the MPU, did some quick clearing of the board contacts and fired up with the MPU unplugged. Checked and set voltage and plugged everything in.

Looks like it is stuck in slam tilt mode even with C2 bypassed but the MPU looks to be working. No insert lights but the GI and displays work and the ball in the saucer was ejected on power up so the MPU is seeing the switch matrix and can activate a coil.

I'm going to replace the interconnect cable (already on order) and use the good pins from the old cable to rebuild the J6 connector which has several broken ones from the battery leakage and go from there.

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#3685 2 days ago

A friend of mine asked me to fix his Hot Shots. Of course there is no manual in the game, and it had a stuck switch column. I’ve got a copy of the manual on order, but it won’t be her til next week. Could someone post a picture of the switch matrix diagram for me?

#3686 2 days ago

Sure, no problem....

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#3687 1 day ago
Quoted from colinize:

Just picked up a Night Moves.
Game will play but w/o display or sound. Going through and diagnosing, looking for things to fix.
One thing I noticed is the replacement power board references MA-645, however the manual calls for MA-831. Is this a potential problem?
I found a different 80b upgraded power supply board for sale which references the proper part number, and it looks different from the one that's installed on my machine. ebay.com link » New Gottlieb System 80b And System 3 5v Power Supply Ma 831 Ma 1359[quoted image][quoted image]

Get a regulated adjustable power supply from eBay for 5 bucks .
I did it for my robowar and things run super smooth for the last 2 years

#3688 1 day ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

Sure, no problem....
[quoted image]

Thanks, I fixed the machine. It turned out to have a bad buffer on the A1 board.

#3689 1 day ago

Glad to be in the club!

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#3690 1 day ago
Quoted from phototamer:

Get a regulated adjustable power supply from eBay for 5 bucks .
I did it for my robowar and things run super smooth for the last 2 years

do you have the part number or better yet a link to the ebay page? i might need one of those...

#3691 20 hours ago
Quoted from pinostalgia:

do you have the part number or better yet a link to the ebay page? i might need one of those...

It’s been a long time ...
Do a search for “ DC-DC Step Up Down Boost buck Voltage Converter Module ” .
Usually the price is below 5 dollars

Typical specs are ...

Specification:
Input Voltage :4-35V
Output voltage: Continuously adjustable(1.25-25V unload adjust)
Output current: 3A Max(If more than 15W, please install the heat sink)
CC range :0-2A (adjustable)
Minimum voltage difference: 2V

What you need is turn the unregulated 12v input from the transformer to a regulated 5 to 5.2 regulated output from the module.

#3692 13 hours ago
Quoted from phototamer:

It’s been a long time ...
Do a search for “ DC-DC Step Up Down Boost buck Voltage Converter Module ” .
Usually the price is below 5 dollars
Typical specs are ...
Specification:
Input Voltage :4-35V
Output voltage: Continuously adjustable(1.25-25V unload adjust)
Output current: 3A Max(If more than 15W, please install the heat sink)
CC range :0-2A (adjustable)
Minimum voltage difference: 2V
What you need is turn the unregulated 12v input from the transformer to a regulated 5 to 5.2 regulated output from the module.

thank you.
so is this it?

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#3693 13 hours ago
Quoted from pinostalgia:

thank you.
so is this it?[quoted image]

Bingo !
The output voltage remains constant , regardless of load.
Before you order ask if it can regulate down ( 5 volts ) . Some modules can only regulate only upwards from input until their max nominal volt output.

#3694 13 hours ago
Quoted from phototamer:

Bingo !
The output voltage remains constant , regardless of load.
Before you order ask if it can regulate down ( 5 volts ) . Some modules can only regulate only upwards from input until their max nominal volt output.

very cool,there are so many different styles,some even have heatsinks,now have to figure out how and where exactly to plug them, lol.
thank you.

#3695 8 hours ago
Quoted from northvibe:

I haven't heard back from Todd at BDE, I ordered the sys1 solenoid driver voltage rebuilt kit, but the capacitors are different than what is on the board and are the same value but different type and I want someone who may know, to verify that is ok.
I have from the kit, .1 uf and .01uf ceramics. they are supposed to replace the axial and ceramic discs.
attached are my caps/kit and the old ones. Just have C22, C20 and c25 left to do.
[quoted image][quoted image]

just an update. Todd confirmed these caps were good to use in the new kit as long as I correctly used the right capacitors/capacitance.

#3696 7 hours ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Ok I need some help, I can’t figure this out unless I swap all parts...
Game: pinball pool
Left pop bumper seems to stick down randomly after some pops. If I shut power off the ring stays down.
Manually moving feels perfect, never hangs.
I’ve gapped then spoon switch bigger to make sure it isn’t arching.
I sanded down any lip on the coil stop and plunger.
New sleeve
Made sure it wasn’t catching on the pop body.
When it catches and I pull up, it almost feels like it is a magnet letting go... right one works fine.
Thoughts are diode on coil not blocking voltage? Or maybe the coil stop or plunger has become magnetized. And could be replaced...

Oh man. so This is is still doing it.

Replaced the pop ring, coil bracket, yoke/nylon, coil sleeve. I'll try swapping the coil bracket/coil assembly with the other pop, tonight.

#3697 4 hours ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Ok I need some help, I can’t figure this out unless I swap all parts...
Game: pinball pool
Left pop bumper seems to stick down randomly after some pops. If I shut power off the ring stays down.
Manually moving feels perfect, never hangs.
I’ve gapped then spoon switch bigger to make sure it isn’t arching.
I sanded down any lip on the coil stop and plunger.
New sleeve
Made sure it wasn’t catching on the pop body.
When it catches and I pull up, it almost feels like it is a magnet letting go... right one works fine.
Thoughts are diode on coil not blocking voltage? Or maybe the coil stop or plunger has become magnetized. And could be replaced...
Oh man. so This is is still doing it.
Replaced the pop ring, coil bracket, yoke/nylon, coil sleeve. I'll try swapping the coil bracket/coil assembly with the other pop, tonight.

I feel like I just need to light this thing on fire. I swapped yoke, plunger and brackets. Then the other pop started to get the same issue. I swapped back, both would get caught/stuck when down.

I removed the coil bracket, and yoke assembly and washed and ground the metal yoke tips. Saw the new coil stop bracket was bent out little, so I bent that in. installed all the parts back to usual. Now the issue pop is 98% working and the old pop is now catching.

Are there any tips for reassembly? manually moving the parts looks perfect, I may have to put my phone down there and run slow mo, this is just not making sense.

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