If desired….I do have a few of those for sale. As I live in Europe, shipment won't be cheap however…. Send me a PM for details if you are interested.

Marco

Ok made some progress. Changed the two ics and now switch 42 & 65 are closed. That is the trough and outhole. So two solenoids next to each other

Scratch 42 being closed. It’s supposed to when the balls are in duh. So just 65 and the switch is for sure open.

Is there anything in the schematics which diode goes to what? For switches

Think I figured it out

Ok so what I’m seeing is that the diode should be board 3A7J1. The arrow going to it says 14. Does that mean the 14th spot? Which way do you go on the diode board? There are 15 spots but only 13 diodes and per schematics there are spots for 15 & 16. Very confused here.

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The end one was actually blown so I replaced that

Looks like it’s working now. The switch grounded itself out from the tensioner

I was commissioned by a new PP owner to create some custom apron cards, so I wanted to make them available to the group. Price for a set is $10 including US postage ($12 international). I print all my cards on a photo quality printer using OEM inks and ultra gloss OEM photo paper. I then coat with a clear gloss vinyl, cut to size, and color the edges.

Please PM me if interested in purchasing.

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Does anyone have an idea as to why the star rollovers on my Solar Ride will work sometimes and sometimes they either don't work/register or they take a game to start working?

This game is in pretty good shape, but it does have the original MPU with a battery pack so I am curious as to what might be causing this? For the record, it's not just one that won't register it is all of them. So when one doesn't work, the rest aren't working either.

Any help is appreciated. I reseated and checked the edge connectors around the whole MPU. I will also note that the MPU ground mod has not been done (yet, I am working on my soldering skills before attempting it).

Have you looked at the switches to see if they need adjustment or cleaning? I'd also look closely and see if they may be gummed up with old wax as well.

One of the switches looks like it has white stuff all over it and it's sticky. I'm guessing that is wax. How would I clean the wax off?

use a old tooth brush....... & a shop vac to gather the debris also helps

Here's something new: The rollovers work flawlessly when I have the playfield up, but as soon as I put it down or shortly after hitting the pops they cease working. Could this still just be a gunky switch issue? Or could it be something different?

Make a switch test through the coin door buttons and check if they are functionning. 1st: cleaning and gap setting... to reajust

I had a similar style problem with my frankenstien. I had some bumpers that lit when the playfield was up and stopped when it was down. the act of moving the table from one position to the other put stress on the wires enough to cause a bad connection. I would put some tension on the wires while testing the switch to see if you could cause a fault

Check for loose connections in the wiring especially around the pop bumper area. Sounds like something is loose that is connected to the pops. Do you have a manual? If so look to see which connector(s) and wires drive those rollovers and pops, likely they're on the same line.

Make sure you do the switch test as mentioned above.

Everything else except the stars work. I did install LEDs yesterday and had to move some stuff around. I just noticed that all of the solder joints on the star switches look like they are dirty/rusty/corroded or something (I'm guessing due to age).

I also noticed that two of the pop bumpers' bottom leaf switches were missing/broken off? That also seems like an issue. I spotted the one complete pop bumper was firing then the switch was staying closed so I adjusted it.

It's also worth noting here that it doesn't happen when just the pops fire. Sometimes they register while the playfield is down, but nothing has fired yet. As soon as I start a game and a few coils fire to set up the game, then the rollovers stop working.

I got this game for a decent price so I can put some money back into it and I don't think it'll leave my collection (of 1) any time soon.

I did a switch test. Playfield up, switches register. Playfield down, switches do not register. Every other switch registers during the test including the ones mentioned above. I am thinking I need to do some resoldering under the playfield as some of these connections look really poor. I also readjusted the rollover switches to make sure nothing was leaving them closed and still very inconsistent with whether or not they would work.

Any suggestions or solutions? You guys are saving my life here. I am new to the whole pinball and electronics game. I learned how to read wire diagrams and circuit diagrams, but getting under there and figuring it out is a whole different ball game.

Already starting to lose my mind from this quarantine.
Probably a longshot, but....anybody have a spare Flippp all in one board lying around?
Need it for a Circus.

Hey Guys,

I've had ASM for over a year and have not been able to find a replacement bottom hinge for the backbox. If anyone has a spare they're willing to sell, I'm all for it! Otherwise, is there a fix for this particular issue? The bottom hinge lacks that "spring upwards" motion I've seen from others owning the game. It looks effortless for those owners posting video of lifting and rotating the light board. I appreciate all your feedback. I'm thinking this is a lost cause, and I'll just need to live with the quirk. Here's a video of me struggling to open without doing further damage.

Wood might be swelled up causing it to be difficult to lift, would not surprise me as they are "chipped wood" panels which have a tendency to absorb water.

Now that's an interesting observation. Thank you!

Test fitting some smoked gray ramps in Victory tonight. Might make them a bit darker yet.

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I need to fix some wear on my Arena. I'm planning to try some waterslide decals. Does anyone happen to have a hi-res photo/scan of a nice Arena playfield? Thanks!

Sadly Gottliebs have barely any overlays or good scans around AFAIK, those that exists are done by nice people.

There are a few decent Gottlieb scans in the virtual pinball world, but I'm actually on the hunt for an Arena one myself (and plastics) to finish a virtual build of it.

BorgDog I just finished my third Vpin build which is for sale in the marketplace. Your Cactus Jacks table is awesome, can’t wait to see/play Arena. My Arena plastics are mostly good, happy to help out with what you need for a virtual table. I have no idea how to scan but can take high res photos if you need them.

Hey gang,

I've just started to work on a Joker Poker, got new Ni-Wumpf replacement boards and MPU-Driver cable. (I haven't mounted the power supply yet) Other connectors are original. Hopefully you can see the video below, It seems to boot up ok, (although the chimes come on really fast). The CPU has Joker Poker selected. Switch and coil tests ok. When you hit the start button, it does the expected 6 chimes, then kicks the ball out. Almost immediately it it does the strangest thing: (see video) it does three chimes, which sound like the first three chimes when you turn on the power. Then, all goes dead, the "game over", "tilt" and "number to match" lights come on. I hear no coil locked on. I double-checked the Tilt switches. If I hit the start button again, it does the same thing. Power cycling doesn't seem to make a difference. I turned on the "attract mode" option, and that works; kinda cool, actually. I know all the lamps work! But as soon as I hit the start button, it does that thing and attract mode does not come back on.

Any ideas, gang? Any help most appreciated! -Paul

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Just picked up last week a very nice Striker. Not many around. Love the way it plays.

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I have one myself... definitely unique in the rule department.

just bought a daughter board from here https://www.pinitech.com/products/gottlieb_piggydeux.php and it works great in my monte carlo and i'm very happy with it.
but i just noticed this other product https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1055-nvramweeblycom/00583-new-gottlieb-system-80b-rom-piggyback-daughter-board-ma689.
and couln't help but wonder what's with the big difference in price,does anybody know?

Mars god of war. Can someone post a pic of a1-j6. I might have the 2 right once in the wrong place.

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Damn $10!
I wish I got mine for that

well,i asked the gentleman who sell these and he said that you have to desolder the daughterboard and solder this in place.the pinitech one is a plug n play and bypasses the whole problem.

The two on the right seem to be the in correct place, although you seem to be missing the wires coming from Pin 1 and 2.

*Picture taken from before I repined the connector... looks much cleaner now.

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That's correct. The difference is the Piggy Deux is a unique product that solves the problem of Sys80B daughterboard issues in a plug-and-play way, without having to chance screwing up your MPU board by attempting to remove the existing daughterboard.

The straight-up U2/U3 daughterboard replacements can of course get you to the same place, but will require a lot of TIME and risk to the MPU board. I'd highly suggest anyone thinking of replacing the original daughterboard to first examine your original Sys80 MPU and the daughterboard. The 2.54mm headers they used, that leave little gap around through-holes to suck the solder out -- along with everything being sandwiched together, make it very difficult to desolder and not pull pads or traces. You need a good technique, a lot of patience, and good tools.. and even then, it's not a guarantee you'll remove it without doing damage to your board. Search the forums and you'll see quite a few botched repair attempts on Sys80B boards. That's why I created the Piggy Deux -- it's a different solution and while it can't match the price of a cheaper option, it can save you a heap of trouble and time by allowing you to quickly get your board back up and running with minimal effort or risk.

---
http://www.pinitech.com - "Pinball Inspired Technology"
NVRAM, Bally/Stern LED Displays & Mods for pinball machines

$50 for plug in play is cheap when compared to cost of replacement board if you f up.

I have a vacuum assisted gun style solder sucker along with a dedicated solder station. It's still a pita and semi time consuming to do it yourself. Id hate to try and do this with a regular 2 setting iron and a wick or trigger pump sucker.

I feel your price point is fine. Maybe do quantity discount. I currently have 3 80bs, want 3 more lol.

Quick question on flipper rebuilds on 80b’s... I have my pitch set at 6 on Genesis and the right flipper rarely makes it up the left ramp. It definitely seems weaker than the left flipper. I’m going to start by rebuilding the flippers as they look original. Should I also replace the coils or are they simply work/don’t work? Thanks

I find that a good rebuild makes a big difference along with making sure EOS is clean and set proper.

If you can slide the coil sleeves out from the solenoids, then they’re fine. If you can’t slide the sleeves out, common school of thought is that the coil has overheated and needs replacing, but I’m too cheap to do that. I’ve found that some spray lubricant frees up the coil sleeve so it can be replaced without having to replace the whole (almost always) still good solenoid.

I generally only replace coils when a winding or lug is hopelessly broken. Coils do not weaken with age otherwise.

FYI, I added a few more 80B ramps to my shop this week-

Diamond Lady Ramp Trough
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1188-ramp-o-matic/03499-gottlieb-diamond-lady-trough-ramp-in-multiple-colors

Diamond Lady Ramp
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1188-ramp-o-matic/03498-gottlieb-diamond-lady-ramp-in-multiple-colors

Victory Small Ramp
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1188-ramp-o-matic/03495-gottlieb-victory-small-ramp

Almost finished with new art for Genesis. I need to make some "anatomical options" but this is close and I will post back the final. Revised with the final 3 styles; Family Friendly, Bally Williams, and Full Frontal.

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Looks good!

Thinking of changing the lineup a little bit and maybe moving my Devils Dare. Enjoyed it for a while and ready for something different. Figured I'd toss a post in here in case anyone was looking for one. All working, playfield in good shape (very small wear spots or insert wear), backglass near mint, all new swemmer boards installed. If interested, I can provide pics and more details.

Does anyone know the pitch adjustment range of a System 1 game? All legs flat to rear legs maxed out.

I'm mounting some playfields in a different cabinet and want to keep roughly the same pitch adjustment range with the rear legs.

I have read a lot but not all of the thread so I'm fairly sure my problem is a little bit different and so i thought I would post it.

Buck Rogers. Was working perfectly just a few days ago.

Power it up - All GI and everything come on, no 5 second delay, all displays show zeros but they are not strobing (Small display showing Credits and Ball in Play is blank at power up). No buttons or coins do anything. No test button, no start button, etc.

If I wait almost exactly 60 seconds it goes into TILT, all GI and PF lights go off but it kicks a ball into the shooter lane and small display comes to life showing credits and Ball in Play as 1. I can plunge but nothing works, no flippers, no scores, once it drains it kicks another ball until I complete ball 3 and it goes to game over.

Things I have tried:
- Removed and tested all fuses
- Tested all Diodes in circuit, replaced two that did not seem correct.
- Reseated all connectors on all boards
- Soldered a jumper across I think it was C2 on the MPU to bypass slam Tilt.
- Checked all the pinouts from the Power board and verified the correct voltage. Checked the voltage at the MPU and verified its within spec 4.9V and -12V
- I do have power to the coin door and various other places I checked.
- wiggled all wires at all connectors (not display connectors as they seem fine and I know they can be easily damaged) to see if I could get any kind of intermittent change in anything as would be expected if its a bad connection or something.

Anything I should try or is it time to order up a new all-in-one board for lots of $$?

Thanks!

I would always recommend getting Pascal's all in one boards for System1 games if you're having any troubles at all, but they don't always fix every problem. Will this scenario happen even if you don't plunge the ball and do not activate any switches?

yes the process is the very same no matter what I do. Also I should mention no sound at any point.

Actually on Sound, check this out. If I go over to the PSU, while its all powered up and I remove (yes I know I shouldn't do this) the lower connector which I think is the power into the PSU, I do get the Startup sound effect however nothing else is powered after that of course.

There are ground mods that should be done to the system 1 games as well. I would do the ground mods and see what happens. That might save from having to purchase a new board as well.