Where are the pictures?

Only one I have offhand for now. It's still sitting in my garage, gotta move things around in the basement to find space. Top of the head will need a little fixing / cleaning as water must have dripped on it or something. Luckily the rest of the cab and head are in good shape, so should clean up pretty nicely.

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Anyone know how to turn off extra balls and set special to points for a dragon running a ni- wumpf board?

not sure it's necessarily possible to do that. according to the manual in the Option menu if you set Specil Credit to 1 it awards specials instead of extra ball, reading further you can also set Specil Overrd to 1 and then additional specials will award points instead of credits. I don't see any way to set the first special to points however.

manual can be found on their website, http://www.ni-wumpf.com/System1CPU.html but depending on what firmware version you have it may not have all the options of the current manual posted.

Ok, who in here has a Royal Flush Deluxe? Does yours have this music??

Mine sounds NOTHING like this??

bought mine as a project and have not gotten it running yet (have yet to work on it), but am curious as to the answer. Also curious as I see you also have a Royal Flush, how do the two compare play wise? not necessarily rules, but feel, speed, etc.

Well, I prefer the RFD. My kids prefer the RF, because they like the chimes. The RFD plays WAY faster. And you can do more traditional flipper techniques on RFD than you can with RF. Also, on RF, once you knock all the cards down, that's it--no more points to be had from knocking cards down, where RFD resets the cards, and you can just keep hammering away. For RF, you really have to try to get your jokers first before knocking down cards. With RFD, I don't worry about it as much because once I get them all down, I can usually cycle through 2 or 3 rounds of cards. Also, RF doesn't have the center pin, so it's a bit more brutal. And the outlanes on RF have no rubbers, unlike RFD. Also, RFD has better artwork over all, both on the backglass as well as the playfield. The arch on RF has no art at all, whereas on RFD, it's lit art. If I could convert RFD to chimes, it would be hands down the clear winner between the two, even with the electronic display instead of the reel scoring.

Axl was asking on my behalf.
I just got info that the Dragon machine I saw ina stream where extra balls where disabled, (hitting the extra ball targets did awrd points not extra ball) they have a Janine board. This one currently has a Ni-Wumpff. I would think they do exact the same thing, but that might not be the case?

The special award is no that critical, but really need to turn off extra balls.

thanks! chimes are pretty awesome, I've converted a couple of my system1's to chimes that didn't originally have them, I like it much better.

they both basically re-programmed the whole game independently and added extra features, Janine typically added more options than the ni-wumpf, so it's quite possible it can do that and the ni-wumpf can't. I've used both, and both work great.

Hard to argue with that! Can it be done on a System 80A???

Do you have to find chimes from a parts machine, or does someone sell that unit? I wouldn't mind switching my Joker Poker over.

EDIT: I guess I haven't looked inside Joker Poker to verify if it is a sound board or chimes... But I have a Pinball Pool as well

I did find this chime remake
http://www.chimeunit.com/

I bought some gottlieb chimes off e-bay. Joker poker came with chimes from the factory, pinball pool is one of mine I converted over, along with Count-Down.

I'm going to guess no on the system 80a to chime conversion, but maybe someone else knows for sure, it's certainly not wired for it like the system 1 machines are.

Looking for SS Joker Poker light board and harness for backbox. Striking out in my wanted ad, hoping I'll have some luck in the thread lol. Please PM me if you have something, thanks!

I finally got my Diamond Lady playing but the issue I'm having is that that my coils don't seem as snappy as they should be.

I can make all the shots but even with completely rebuilt flippers they seem to be on the weak side. And my right target bank sometimes has trouble resetting even after cleaning/rebuilding it. Even pops and slings seem like they are at about 80% of where they should be in terms of power. I have good 5V and 12V going in to the boards.

Any ideas of what I should be checking and what the likely culprit could be? thanks

Did you do the ground upgrade at the transformer?
Did you check the rectifier(s) next to the transformer?

Thank you for the advice!

I did re-flow the solder on the ground PCB boards near the transformer if this is what you are referring to by the transformer ground upgrade? I haven't checked or replaced the rectifiers yet. i will check them tonight and report back.

Is it worth it to rebuild a system 80b power supply? Game works great with new power supply but when I install the old original one, the game does really weird things.

I checked the rectifiers and they were all in the .4-.45 range which may be a little low? I ended up putting in new bridge rectifiers and a new cabinet capacitor and it seemed to help with coil power. It may still be a little weak but the drops have been able to reset everytime so far and everything seems a little peppier. Thanks again the the recommendation.

It may just need a new pot. Those are notoriously flaky. There aren't many components needed to rebuild so it would probably be worth doing

I'm hoping someone can help me with my Alien Star. My issue is that it still has what I think might be the original battery (it's orange). I want to replace it with a working battery, but I think I need a diode or something.

Does anyone have instructions on getting that replaced and installing the diode? I'd go with NVRAM, but I don't have the skills to install a socket.

I was going to look at the Pinwiki, but it's still hacked.

Chris Hibler installed my NVRAMs and he did a fantastic job. Contact him and he will do you right.

Thanks for the recommendation, but I'd prefer to go a different direction. I didn't have very good luck sending out boards for my Super Orbit.

The System 80 power supplies are easy to rebuild and rock solid after doing so.

Sent you a pm. I generally use the little disc capacitors just because it's clean and easy.

Skip the battery and just install a memory capacitor. Simply remove the battery and solder in the capacitor.

ebay.com link: Electric Double Layer Memory Back up Capacitor 1F 5 5VDC 2 pcs

I still prefer the NVRAM over the capacitor. If you leave the game off for a while with the capacitor you lose high scores and settings. Not an issue with NVRAM.

As long as you play your games semi-regularly the disc capacitors work well and are much easier to install. I use the same model that Mad_dog recommended above. I drill a small hole for the negative lead and put the positive lead in the + hole. then run a jumper under the board to the negative hole.

I have had problems with disc caps, so my go to are..

1) NVRAM
2) Phone batteries 3.6V with remote cable, $12 for a four pack from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DFVPAKG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00

Does the trim pot need to be rated for 1watt? I see a bunch of 1/2W available.

I've had a mem cap in my Counterforce.
I hadn't turned it on for more than 10 months, high score was still there....

I have a HH in my vacation house That I play once or twice every couple months. It has a memory capacitor installed and has kept my high score for 5 years now.

I'm not sure without looking it up (not at home now). If you're looking to buy a kit just get one from Big Daddy. Works great and has all the parts you need.

I installed a 1 watt replacement. The only difference is that I used a precision 10 turn. It should last longer and be more stable than the original. I wouldn't recommend or install the 1/2 watt version.

I had one in Hollywood Heat that would last a week.

For the $3 I just assume go with a remote & rechargeable battery.

Update. I checked against the manual and the wrong coils are installed in my right drop target bank and left slingshot. Coils that are far too weak compared to what's supposed to be in there. I think this will solve my issue.

I have a Circus and I love it, great shots, sounds are of the time but I do like the little calliope ditties, and offers a good amount of shot variety. I've heard others say it's similar to Genie and to be honest I don't get it other than some similarities in PF layout. IMHO they play completely different. Circus is super wide with the PF area damn near a full 3 inches wider but with all that extra space it still play fast and loses no flow. I will never get rid of my Gottlieb super wide bodies.

Does anyone know where I could order and what the correct grommet is for a kick save on devils dare? It's the one that keeps the plunger straight on the backside of the mech. Imagine this has to be fairly similar between other sys80 games.

I already ordered one from pbr, Steve only had older ones; so the rubber was fairly hard. It broke apart when I tried to install. Not a big deal, he stated that up front and was cheap. I see a bunch of different grommets at Marco, but not sure which would be correct. Possibly other places that might have it?

Does anybody want this? A woodworker friend of mine made me a couple replacement doors for a Caveman project I did. I only used one. It is a great fit, just needs painted. I hate to throw it away. I'll send it to anyone who is willing to cover shipping (probably $20 UPS). Hit me up with a PM.

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i thought the replacement 80b displays sold by boston pinbals were too expensive, can somebody chime in.

They are expensive but I think the only led/new option?

Circus is somewhat similar to genie, but seems to have a little better shots/coding- the biggest difference is that it let's you play it, there's not a bunch of SDTM drains like on Genie

Why is that,how hard would be to manufacture?

Someone with gottlieb love and pcb design would have to spend time to make them. The original displays are 69v while led are usually 12v. So am adapter has to be used. I just bought two sets of Boston displays and it comes with a power injector and you pull the 69v fuse

The lock holding the display panel broke on my Robo-War. Trying to rig in a new lock is proving to be a real PITA. Does anyone have any solutions/a specific lock set that works with that “swing down” style of backbox on these games?

I had ordered one from PBR
http://www.pbresource.com/locks.html
If no one chimes in, ask PBR which parts you need.

I feel like it's a fair price for what they had R&D. I ended up putting some in a victory and they look like a million bucks. They are a tiny bit larger and look awesome.

Still looking for a Bad Girls Playfield window if anyone has an extra or one they are looking to part out

SOLD!

Parts - Wanted

Wanted: Bad Girls Pool Playfield Window Archived

Wanted! - “Looking for a Pool Playfield Window -Part #26137”

2020-01-09

Vienna, VA

jugood20

Wanted

Archived after: 13 days

Viewed: 97 times

Status: Sold (amount undisclosed)

funny you mentionned that,i'm planning on putting it in my victory as well .that's how it come off the container...( missing one display)