Thanks to JodyG for the new Gold Wings ramp he made for my game.

IMG_65041 (resized).jpg

Looks nice.

Had some troubles with the 5v power supply on my Robowar some time ago. Found this little gem perfect for keeping the supplied voltage to the boards at exactly 5.2 volts regardless of load.
Price is around 5 or 6 dollars on Ebay and comes with over load protection and fully controlled output from 2 to 12 volts.
I am in the middle of restoring my robowar and remember how I solved all my troubles with this one.
The module is sitting on the original, dead , 5v power supply, for convenience.
Will try and find a link , but you can look it under switching power supply modules

20191001_103025 (resized).jpg

20191001_104510 (resized).jpg

20191001_110727 (resized).jpg

20191001_110901 (resized).jpg

20191001_110942 (resized).jpg

The idea is very sound but they are cheap foreign made boards with a high failure rate. I would recommend replacing your power supply or fixing the OEM one. I don't think you'll be happy in the long term with this repair. It will unlikely hurt anything but my luck with these hasn't been good. One day it will just stop working. Not trying to be negative, just trying to save you some pain later on down the road.

Quality control for Chinese products , especially electronics is not the best in the world.
But from my experience most of the times they deliver. I have this one running for more than 2 years and still works fine . The same goes with my rework station that I have been using for more than 4 years with perfectly consisted results.
Many times the same Chinese product is being sold under a brand name with double the price .
Any way , is an easy way to get your boards running under stable voltage , without overheating. If it fails you can always replace it.

Anyone with a good system 80 board for sale? I have a game to bring back to life. Current board has damage over a wide area and I'm not sure worth investing my time.

A bit expansive, but the PI80 might be an option.
https://www.flippp.fr/pi80.php

Another option is a Rottendog board:
https://ksarcade.net/rottendog-mpu080-replacement-for-gottlieb-system-80.html

Or Ni-Wumpf....
http://www.ni-wumpf.com/System80CPU.html

I'm considering a Swemmer if I can find one or a Rottendog if a good stock MPU doesn't pan out. No particular hurry, I have plenty of projects to keep me busy but thought I'd throw it out there I was looking.

Have you looked at the lisy board? Just put one in my Pinball Pool (system 1) and it's pretty slick...

lisy.dev

Interesting.

A-20095

Careful, there have been a few on here that have done just what you are proposing and replacing with a stronger coil ended in a lot of broken plastics.

Kind of the nature of that game. The 10m shot is hard to hit too. I think it was made this way. You really have to hit that ball on a ricochet to get the speed to hit either the left or right shots.

Did you replace the flipper button switches and the EOS switches?
Check the Q relay for good contact.
Did you do the ground update/upgrade at the transformer?

Hi,

Don't forgot the power does not lean only the coil strengh... Did you mind to clean your EOS and cabinet button contacts? They are tungsten... Your can file them and set the right space in between (2 mm)... Changing the coil (I don't say not to do it...) is the heavy artillery... And on Monte Carlo, I don't think it necessary.

Seems Gold Wings is on a streak lately! I just picked one up last week. Complete with topper but I am missing a couple playfield plastics. Would really appreciate it if anyone could help me out. The two top left PF "Clouds" just before and to the right of the top left loop shot. The top left apron is busted too, but mostly there except it wont hold the left most flasher dome... aircraft carrier is missing lower right corner but not horribly broken.

When I got it, it would turn on and play but at random times would lock the "Game Over" relay on/off, on/off, on/off until the machine was shut off. I thought it was a heat issue as it was random timing and the pin wouldn't always come out of it by turning it off and back on. Turns out the R6532P below the daughter board had a leg mostly out of the socket. Fixed that and did the cab and main MPU harness ground mods, installed NVRAM and she's now solid as a rock.

Any help with the plastics would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gold-wings-plastics-

Looking for a gold wings topper if any one has one.

Hi guys, finishing to restore an Arena I got.
I have an issue with the diverters, they don't open and rattle.
If I push them with my finger, they stay out as they should.
Looked the mechs, seem ok.

Any idea, coils not strong enough anymore?

Did you try reflowing the solder to the coils?

Nope but will do! Good point

Anyone know of a source of repair for a System 1 second generation sound board? My Buck Rogers board isn't play any sounds, but I do I a faint humming sound through the speaker.

deleted

Can you guys give me advice on cleaning the playfield really well? Looking for least abrasive best results for ball swirls etc specifically for system 1 machines.

I’ve read a lot but Curious what you guys with experience on system 1 cleaning

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cleaning-and-waxing-pinball-machines-vids-guide

Reading through this thread below is why I wanted to post here - curious which approach folks with Sys 1 machines take. Lots of info and opinion in the below...

if you really want ball swirls out you are going to have to go magic eraser, rubbing alcohol (removes original clear) then clear coat in my opinion. whatever clear (lacquer?) was originally on them was so thin the ball swirl marks are likely into the paint. I've done 2 system 1 machines and actually left some swirl because I didn't want to repaint and I felt going any further with the magic eraser I was going to eliminate area of paint. personally I'm fine with that, I mainly wanted them flat and playing smooth, the only touchup's I did was black keylines around inserts.

other than that, for just cleaning that thread covers it all, there are many ways to get it done, and many opinions to go along with them.

Thanks for this - so either go all out and use magic eraser and alcohol knowing I need to clear it or just get as much as I can with non abrasive cleaning (just never seems to clean up enought).

When you touch up the black are you clearing over that?

yes, I only touch up if clearing the whole playfield.

I just discovered Mylar is great for spot areas. Touched up this Trek playfield and mylar'd the center, it looks great!

20190904_093907_resized (resized).jpg

Opened a separate thread reguarding the ma-988 &ma-989 flipper conversion looking for thoughts on this i assume somebody here has already got steves thoughts on this in the past.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-ma-988-and-ma-989-flipper-conversion

I did also post this on the "Robowar fun club" .
Rebuilding my Robowar and I need to know the location and type of the switch that turns the game on , which is on the bottom of the cabinet. The previous owner drilled an irregular hole and placed a rectangular one. Any images of that and of the mains cable that enters the back of the cabinet will be greatly appreciated.

Hey everyone, I'm working on a Rock playfield for a Pinmame project. I am not using a transformer board so I need to build my own power supply harness.

Could someone please confirm the part numbers for the two 6 pin Molex connectors that supply power to the playfield? Which size pins, 0.062 or 0.093? 18g wire?

Thanks in advance.

Edit: Can confirm they are 0.093".

I've been working on getting my Diamond Lady working. Had it playing with the exception of a few switches (3 of the center drops and right sling). In the middle of a game it started going berzerk and a bunch of switches started going off and the score started going up rapidly. After about 20 seconds I shut it off. Now after powering on it boots fine but I'm unable to start a game. None of the switches work and show as open in the switch test. Any idea of what to try next? Ground mods were already done on the game. Thanks!

Just added a Big House to my collection. My first solid state Gottlieb. It needs work, but I got it for a bargain. Ordered whatever parts PBR had available in addition to a few boards that looked too toasty to repair. Some parts are no longer available like the motors so hopefully I can get the existing ones working smoothly. I figure I would check in because this group seems to have a great collection of minds!

0C80D568-7744-4089-930E-06F472C2BB7F (resized).jpeg

45D32E10-4F79-4B5C-ADC8-2018A09676B6 (resized).jpeg

I played one at York a few weeks ago, could not get a good game in to decide if I like it or not. Shows are so hit or miss on the pins you play I generally don't form a bad opinion unless it is a clear stinker or tried a few examples.

There aren’t many videos online and I have never seen one in person. It has quite a few fun moving parts on the play field so I figured it was worth fixing. My newest game other than this one is Stern Meteor. So this is a lot more involved and should be a nice addition when complete.

That’s a cool looking pin. Never seen it before.

Big House is one of my favorite Premiers! Pinball Gallery had one on the floor for a few months, fun game.

I'm late to post, but I got a fully dead joker poker almost a year ago (still sitting) and just acquired a project pinball pool. Ordered a pascal pinball all-in-one board for each, so I'll be selling the stock boards out of them. No idea what condition they are in, but pinball pool powers on have not played a game on it.

Would a sys 80a game (Rocky in this case) have a wider head than a modern machine? The older DE machines have a wider head than the newer games, wasnt sure if Gottliebs were the same?

Don’t think I’ve owned a 80a, but I feel like my sys1 and black hole had giant back boxes vs a Williams or stern

My royal flush deluxe, which I believe is the same head as rocky, is 29-3/4" wide. alien star a little later where they got rid of the side grills is 27-3/4" wide, compared to my tna (my only modern game) which is 28-3/4" wide. I don't think the wide body heads were any wider.

Haunted House is about 30 1/2"

Thanks. Sti is bringing it soon trying to see if head will need to come off to get in my darn narrow basement doors

Not that much wider in reality but I think the frame that swings forward just makes it look “huge”

It's really easy popping the head off those games. Just take good photos of all the connectors.

thanks will do. I assume they aren't keyed like the 90s Stern machines... I bought a South Park awhile back and that was easiest game in the world to hook up (for some reason the seller that shipped it thought he needed to unplug every connector before letting STI pick it up). I saw a photo of the boards on an archived ad, looks fairly straightforward.

I definitely don't want to damage it, it was Steve Charland's personal machine (blownfuse).