(Topic ID: 73213)

Home for the Gottlieb SYS1-SYS80B guys, Yep it's a club :)


By Gerry

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 3,217 posts
  • 415 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 17 hours ago by northvibe
  • Topic is favorited by 219 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 1,035 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

2019-11-13_08h54_36 (resized).png
2019-11-13_08h53_07 (resized).png
2019-11-13_08h51_50 (resized).png
259DB00F-DA30-4A55-9865-2AAF6EBEC227 (resized).jpeg
45D32E10-4F79-4B5C-ADC8-2018A09676B6 (resized).jpeg
0C80D568-7744-4089-930E-06F472C2BB7F (resized).jpeg
20190904_093907_resized (resized).jpg
20191001_103025 (resized).jpg
20191001_110942 (resized).jpg
20191001_110901 (resized).jpg
20191001_110727 (resized).jpg
20191001_104510 (resized).jpg
IMG_65041 (resized).jpg
IMG_20190907_144915 (resized).jpg
IMG_20190907_145128 (resized).jpg
IMG_20190907_134709 (resized).jpg

There are 3217 posts in this topic. You are on page 64 of 65.
11
#3151 55 days ago

Thanks to JodyG for the new Gold Wings ramp he made for my game.

IMG_65041 (resized).jpg
1 week later
#3153 45 days ago

Had some troubles with the 5v power supply on my Robowar some time ago. Found this little gem perfect for keeping the supplied voltage to the boards at exactly 5.2 volts regardless of load.
Price is around 5 or 6 dollars on Ebay and comes with over load protection and fully controlled output from 2 to 12 volts.
I am in the middle of restoring my robowar and remember how I solved all my troubles with this one.
The module is sitting on the original, dead , 5v power supply, for convenience.
Will try and find a link , but you can look it under switching power supply modules

20191001_103025 (resized).jpg20191001_104510 (resized).jpg20191001_110727 (resized).jpg20191001_110901 (resized).jpg20191001_110942 (resized).jpg
#3154 45 days ago
Quoted from phototamer:

Had some troubles with the 5v power supply on my Robowar some time ago. Found this little gem perfect for keeping the supplied voltage to the boards at exactly 5.2 volts regardless of load.
Price is around 5 or 6 dollars on Ebay and comes with over load protection and fully controlled output from 2 to 12 volts.
I am in the middle of restoring my robowar and remember how I solved all my troubles with this one.
The module is sitting on the original, dead , 5v power supply, for convenience.
Will try and find a link , but you can look it under switching power supply modules[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

The idea is very sound but they are cheap foreign made boards with a high failure rate. I would recommend replacing your power supply or fixing the OEM one. I don't think you'll be happy in the long term with this repair. It will unlikely hurt anything but my luck with these hasn't been good. One day it will just stop working. Not trying to be negative, just trying to save you some pain later on down the road.

#3155 44 days ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

The idea is very sound but they are cheap foreign made boards with a high failure rate. I would recommend replacing your power supply or fixing the OEM one. I don't think you'll be happy in the long term with this repair. It will unlikely hurt anything but my luck with these hasn't been good. One day it will just stop working. Not trying to be negative, just trying to save you some pain later on down the road.

Quality control for Chinese products , especially electronics is not the best in the world.
But from my experience most of the times they deliver. I have this one running for more than 2 years and still works fine . The same goes with my rework station that I have been using for more than 4 years with perfectly consisted results.
Many times the same Chinese product is being sold under a brand name with double the price .
Any way , is an easy way to get your boards running under stable voltage , without overheating. If it fails you can always replace it.

#3156 44 days ago

Anyone with a good system 80 board for sale? I have a game to bring back to life. Current board has damage over a wide area and I'm not sure worth investing my time.

#3157 42 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Anyone with a good system 80 board for sale? I have a game to bring back to life. Current board has damage over a wide area and I'm not sure worth investing my time.

A bit expansive, but the PI80 might be an option.
https://www.flippp.fr/pi80.php

Another option is a Rottendog board:
https://ksarcade.net/rottendog-mpu080-replacement-for-gottlieb-system-80.html

Or Ni-Wumpf....
http://www.ni-wumpf.com/System80CPU.html

#3158 42 days ago

I'm considering a Swemmer if I can find one or a Rottendog if a good stock MPU doesn't pan out. No particular hurry, I have plenty of projects to keep me busy but thought I'd throw it out there I was looking.

#3159 42 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Anyone with a good system 80 board for sale

Have you looked at the lisy board? Just put one in my Pinball Pool (system 1) and it's pretty slick...

lisy.dev

#3160 42 days ago
Quoted from dmieczko:

Have you looked at the lisy board? Just put one in my Pinball Pool (system 1) and it's pretty slick...
lisy.dev

Interesting.

#3161 39 days ago

Is it possible to install a stronger flipper coil in a system 80b? I have a Monte Carlo and the right flipper is weak even after a flipper rebuild. The left orbit/under ramp to upper saucer is nearly impossible to hit, even with the playfield set at 5 degrees. The coils in it are A-24161. Just looking for a little more power.

#3162 38 days ago
Quoted from Jakers:

Is it possible to install a stronger flipper coil in a system 80b? I have a Monte Carlo and the right flipper is weak even after a flipper rebuild. The left orbit/under ramp to upper saucer is nearly impossible to hit, even with the playfield set at 5 degrees. The coils in it are A-24161. Just looking for a little more power.

A-20095

#3163 38 days ago
Quoted from Jakers:

Just looking for a little more power.

Careful, there have been a few on here that have done just what you are proposing and replacing with a stronger coil ended in a lot of broken plastics.

#3164 38 days ago
Quoted from Jakers:

Is it possible to install a stronger flipper coil in a system 80b? I have a Monte Carlo and the right flipper is weak even after a flipper rebuild. The left orbit/under ramp to upper saucer is nearly impossible to hit, even with the playfield set at 5 degrees. The coils in it are A-24161. Just looking for a little more power.

Kind of the nature of that game. The 10m shot is hard to hit too. I think it was made this way. You really have to hit that ball on a ricochet to get the speed to hit either the left or right shots.

#3165 38 days ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Kind of the nature of that game. The 10m shot is hard to hit too. I think it was made this way. You really have to hit that ball on a ricochet to get the speed to hit either the left or right shots.

My left flipper has more than enough power for the 10mil shot. The ball actually flies off the ramp sometimes because it has so much speed.

Quoted from RWH:

Careful, there have been a few on here that have done just what you are proposing and replacing with a stronger coil ended in a lot of broken plastics.

There's already some cracked plastics so I'm not too worried about that. I'd rather be able to hit that saucer and start multiballs versus worry about possible cracked plastics.

Thank you!

#3166 38 days ago

Did you replace the flipper button switches and the EOS switches?
Check the Q relay for good contact.
Did you do the ground update/upgrade at the transformer?

#3167 36 days ago
Quoted from Jakers:

Is it possible to install a stronger flipper coil in a system 80b? I have a Monte Carlo and the right flipper is weak even after a flipper rebuild. The left orbit/under ramp to upper saucer is nearly impossible to hit, even with the playfield set at 5 degrees. The coils in it are A-24161. Just looking for a little more power.

Hi,

Don't forgot the power does not lean only the coil strengh... Did you mind to clean your EOS and cabinet button contacts? They are tungsten... Your can file them and set the right space in between (2 mm)... Changing the coil (I don't say not to do it...) is the heavy artillery... And on Monte Carlo, I don't think it necessary.

#3168 33 days ago

Seems Gold Wings is on a streak lately! I just picked one up last week. Complete with topper but I am missing a couple playfield plastics. Would really appreciate it if anyone could help me out. The two top left PF "Clouds" just before and to the right of the top left loop shot. The top left apron is busted too, but mostly there except it wont hold the left most flasher dome... aircraft carrier is missing lower right corner but not horribly broken.

When I got it, it would turn on and play but at random times would lock the "Game Over" relay on/off, on/off, on/off until the machine was shut off. I thought it was a heat issue as it was random timing and the pin wouldn't always come out of it by turning it off and back on. Turns out the R6532P below the daughter board had a leg mostly out of the socket. Fixed that and did the cab and main MPU harness ground mods, installed NVRAM and she's now solid as a rock.

Any help with the plastics would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

#3169 33 days ago
Quoted from Chisel:

Seems Gold Wings is on a streak lately! I just picked one up last week. Complete with topper but I am missing a couple playfield plastics. Would really appreciate it if anyone could help me out. The two top left PF "Clouds" just before and to the right of the top left loop shot. The top left apron is busted too, but mostly there except it wont hold the left most flasher dome... aircraft carrier is missing lower right corner but not horribly broken.
When I got it, it would turn on and play but at random times would lock the "Game Over" relay on/off, on/off, on/off until the machine was shut off. I thought it was a heat issue as it was random timing and the pin wouldn't always come out of it by turning it off and back on. Turns out the R6532P below the daughter board had a leg mostly out of the socket. Fixed that and did the cab and main MPU harness ground mods, installed NVRAM and she's now solid as a rock.
Any help with the plastics would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gold-wings-plastics-

#3170 32 days ago

Looking for a gold wings topper if any one has one.

#3171 32 days ago

Hi guys, finishing to restore an Arena I got.
I have an issue with the diverters, they don't open and rattle.
If I push them with my finger, they stay out as they should.
Looked the mechs, seem ok.

Any idea, coils not strong enough anymore?

#3172 31 days ago
Quoted from Nihonmasa:

Hi guys, finishing to restore an Arena I got.
I have an issue with the diverters, they don't open and rattle.
If I push them with my finger, they stay out as they should.
Looked the mechs, seem ok.

Any idea, coils not strong enough anymore?

Did you try reflowing the solder to the coils?

#3173 31 days ago
Quoted from gweempose:

Did you try reflowing the solder to the coils?

Nope but will do! Good point

#3174 31 days ago

Anyone know of a source of repair for a System 1 second generation sound board? My Buck Rogers board isn't play any sounds, but I do I a faint humming sound through the speaker.

#3175 30 days ago

deleted

#3176 29 days ago

Can you guys give me advice on cleaning the playfield really well? Looking for least abrasive best results for ball swirls etc specifically for system 1 machines.

I’ve read a lot but Curious what you guys with experience on system 1 cleaning

#3177 28 days ago
Quoted from djsolzs:

Can you guys give me advice on cleaning the playfield really well? Looking for least abrasive best results for ball swirls etc specifically for system 1 machines.
I’ve read a lot but Curious what you guys with experience on system 1 cleaning

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cleaning-and-waxing-pinball-machines-vids-guide

#3178 28 days ago

Reading through this thread below is why I wanted to post here - curious which approach folks with Sys 1 machines take. Lots of info and opinion in the below...

#3179 28 days ago

if you really want ball swirls out you are going to have to go magic eraser, rubbing alcohol (removes original clear) then clear coat in my opinion. whatever clear (lacquer?) was originally on them was so thin the ball swirl marks are likely into the paint. I've done 2 system 1 machines and actually left some swirl because I didn't want to repaint and I felt going any further with the magic eraser I was going to eliminate area of paint. personally I'm fine with that, I mainly wanted them flat and playing smooth, the only touchup's I did was black keylines around inserts.

other than that, for just cleaning that thread covers it all, there are many ways to get it done, and many opinions to go along with them.

#3180 28 days ago

Thanks for this - so either go all out and use magic eraser and alcohol knowing I need to clear it or just get as much as I can with non abrasive cleaning (just never seems to clean up enought).

When you touch up the black are you clearing over that?

Quoted from BorgDog:

if you really want ball swirls out you are going to have to go magic eraser, rubbing alcohol (removes original clear) then clear coat in my opinion. whatever clear (lacquer?) was originally on them was so thin the ball swirl marks are likely into the paint. I've done 2 system 1 machines and actually left some swirl because I didn't want to repaint and I felt going any further with the magic eraser I was going to eliminate area of paint. personally I'm fine with that, I mainly wanted them flat and playing smooth, the only touchup's I did was black keylines around inserts.
other than that, for just cleaning that thread covers it all, there are many ways to get it done, and many opinions to go along with them.

#3181 28 days ago

yes, I only touch up if clearing the whole playfield.

#3182 28 days ago
Quoted from BorgDog:

yes, I only touch up if clearing the whole playfield.

I just discovered Mylar is great for spot areas. Touched up this Trek playfield and mylar'd the center, it looks great!

20190904_093907_resized (resized).jpg
#3183 28 days ago

Opened a separate thread reguarding the ma-988 &ma-989 flipper conversion looking for thoughts on this i assume somebody here has already got steves thoughts on this in the past.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-ma-988-and-ma-989-flipper-conversion

#3184 26 days ago

I did also post this on the "Robowar fun club" .
Rebuilding my Robowar and I need to know the location and type of the switch that turns the game on , which is on the bottom of the cabinet. The previous owner drilled an irregular hole and placed a rectangular one. Any images of that and of the mains cable that enters the back of the cabinet will be greatly appreciated.

#3185 25 days ago

Hey everyone, I'm working on a Rock playfield for a Pinmame project. I am not using a transformer board so I need to build my own power supply harness.

Could someone please confirm the part numbers for the two 6 pin Molex connectors that supply power to the playfield? Which size pins, 0.062 or 0.093? 18g wire?

Thanks in advance.

Added 21 days ago:

Edit: Can confirm they are 0.093".

1 week later
#3186 18 days ago

I've been working on getting my Diamond Lady working. Had it playing with the exception of a few switches (3 of the center drops and right sling). In the middle of a game it started going berzerk and a bunch of switches started going off and the score started going up rapidly. After about 20 seconds I shut it off. Now after powering on it boots fine but I'm unable to start a game. None of the switches work and show as open in the switch test. Any idea of what to try next? Ground mods were already done on the game. Thanks!

#3187 18 days ago

Just added a Big House to my collection. My first solid state Gottlieb. It needs work, but I got it for a bargain. Ordered whatever parts PBR had available in addition to a few boards that looked too toasty to repair. Some parts are no longer available like the motors so hopefully I can get the existing ones working smoothly. I figure I would check in because this group seems to have a great collection of minds!

0C80D568-7744-4089-930E-06F472C2BB7F (resized).jpeg45D32E10-4F79-4B5C-ADC8-2018A09676B6 (resized).jpeg
#3188 18 days ago
Quoted from scraig314:

Just added a Big House to my collection. My first solid state Gottlieb. It needs work, but I got it for a bargain. Ordered whatever parts PBR had available in addition to a few boards that looked too toasty to repair. Some parts are no longer available like the motors so hopefully I can get the existing ones working smoothly. I figure I would check in because this group seems to have a great collection of minds![quoted image][quoted image]

I played one at York a few weeks ago, could not get a good game in to decide if I like it or not. Shows are so hit or miss on the pins you play I generally don't form a bad opinion unless it is a clear stinker or tried a few examples.

#3189 17 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

I played one at York a few weeks ago, could not get a good game in to decide if I like it or not. Shows are so hit or miss on the pins you play I generally don't form a bad opinion unless it is a clear stinker or tried a few examples.

There aren’t many videos online and I have never seen one in person. It has quite a few fun moving parts on the play field so I figured it was worth fixing. My newest game other than this one is Stern Meteor. So this is a lot more involved and should be a nice addition when complete.

#3190 17 days ago
Quoted from scraig314:

Just added a Big House to my collection. My first solid state Gottlieb. It needs work, but I got it for a bargain. Ordered whatever parts PBR had available in addition to a few boards that looked too toasty to repair. Some parts are no longer available like the motors so hopefully I can get the existing ones working smoothly. I figure I would check in because this group seems to have a great collection of minds![quoted image][quoted image]

That’s a cool looking pin. Never seen it before.

#3191 17 days ago
Quoted from scraig314:

Just added a Big House to my collection. My first solid state Gottlieb. It needs work, but I got it for a bargain. Ordered whatever parts PBR had available in addition to a few boards that looked too toasty to repair. Some parts are no longer available like the motors so hopefully I can get the existing ones working smoothly. I figure I would check in because this group seems to have a great collection of minds![quoted image][quoted image]

Big House is one of my favorite Premiers! Pinball Gallery had one on the floor for a few months, fun game.

#3192 16 days ago

I'm late to post, but I got a fully dead joker poker almost a year ago (still sitting) and just acquired a project pinball pool. Ordered a pascal pinball all-in-one board for each, so I'll be selling the stock boards out of them. No idea what condition they are in, but pinball pool powers on have not played a game on it.

#3193 16 days ago

Would a sys 80a game (Rocky in this case) have a wider head than a modern machine? The older DE machines have a wider head than the newer games, wasnt sure if Gottliebs were the same?

#3194 16 days ago
Quoted from jake35:

Would a sys 80a game (Rocky in this case) have a wider head than a modern machine? The older DE machines have a wider head than the newer games, wasnt sure if Gottliebs were the same?

Don’t think I’ve owned a 80a, but I feel like my sys1 and black hole had giant back boxes vs a Williams or stern

#3195 16 days ago
Quoted from jake35:

Would a sys 80a game (Rocky in this case) have a wider head than a modern machine? The older DE machines have a wider head than the newer games, wasnt sure if Gottliebs were the same?

My royal flush deluxe, which I believe is the same head as rocky, is 29-3/4" wide. alien star a little later where they got rid of the side grills is 27-3/4" wide, compared to my tna (my only modern game) which is 28-3/4" wide. I don't think the wide body heads were any wider.

#3196 16 days ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Don’t think I’ve owned a 80a, but I feel like my sys1 and black hole had giant back boxes vs a Williams or stern

Haunted House is about 30 1/2"

#3197 16 days ago
Quoted from BorgDog:

My royal flush deluxe, which I believe is the same head as rocky, is 29-3/4" wide. alien star a little later where they got rid of the side grills is 27-3/4" wide, compared to my tna (my only modern game) which is 28-3/4" wide. I don't think the wide body heads were any wider.

Thanks. Sti is bringing it soon trying to see if head will need to come off to get in my darn narrow basement doors

#3198 16 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Haunted House is about 30 1/2"

Not that much wider in reality but I think the frame that swings forward just makes it look “huge”

#3199 15 days ago
Quoted from jake35:

Thanks. Sti is bringing it soon trying to see if head will need to come off to get in my darn narrow basement doors

It's really easy popping the head off those games. Just take good photos of all the connectors.

#3200 15 days ago
Quoted from gweempose:

It's really easy popping the head off those games. Just take good photos of all the connectors.

thanks will do. I assume they aren't keyed like the 90s Stern machines... I bought a South Park awhile back and that was easiest game in the world to hook up (for some reason the seller that shipped it thought he needed to unplug every connector before letting STI pick it up). I saw a photo of the boards on an archived ad, looks fairly straightforward.

I definitely don't want to damage it, it was Steve Charland's personal machine (blownfuse).

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
From: $ 22.95
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Super Skill Shot Shop
1,250
Machine - For Sale
Dover, NH
$ 299.00
Displays
Boston Pinball Company
There are 3217 posts in this topic. You are on page 64 of 65.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside