Check your header pins for cracks and reflow them as a start. Also use a pencil eraser and clean all the card edges and reset before you power it back up after reflowing.

Question:
I found these switches on my system 80A sound board, and am not sure how they should be set. Should they both be pressed towards 1 & 2, should they be pressed towards open, should only one be open, or ?
I currently have no sounds or music so that’s why I’m asking if the switches are correct.
Thanks!

8C24CBA3-99EB-4044-8BDC-04768106F85F (resized).jpeg

91163F11-4B76-4787-9EA6-3772A5AE801B (resized).jpeg

Search for arcade emulator sites.

Oh, the EPROMS themselves!

Odds are no, anything you find now will be pulls being that old.

You need 2764? I might just have a new stick on the shelf. LMK how many you need.

If you are unsure wheather they are on or off, check them with a DMM.
Here are the settings for the switches...
Gottlieb_sound (resized).jpg

I also found this setting for older sound boards....

Gottlieb_sound_80 (resized).jpg

I picked up a pretty nice Victory from a friend of mine, but it is missing a few vital parts. So I’m hoping someone had a parts playfield laying around that I could get the following parts from:
1. The right hand wire form, along with the ball stop at the return lane
2. Both right and left lamp chaser boards.
Thanks,

I was able to fix this by using Marco's great test rom. It confirmed everything was working and helped me find a bad trace I had messed up when I socketed U4, if you have a bad System 80 board his Rom test is EXTENSIVE.... on an 80B too you can just pop it right in the socket.

Original power supply? Time for a rebuild.

Great suggestion as well.

Just a reminder to system 80 owners.
Yesterday the coil that ejects the captive ball on my robowar was not energizing. In test mode everything else was ok except that one. It is solenoid number 3. The coil tested good with a multimeter. I was going to start checking transistors and MPU but before that ,I just cleaned and reattached the connector on the A16 transistor driver board. Everything works fine now.
Usually the solution to a problem with system 80 boards is a connector not making good contact.

Fyi Docent just scammed me too. 100 bucks for 2 80B connector kits and 1 system 1. Can’t get a hold of them or a response.

I had no luck getting in touch with Docent after they collected my payment. Shady, shady

Isn't the owner in/out of the hospital - per the July 2019 notice on the front web page. Or has their been considerable amount of time lapse with your orders?

Am just curious. Thanks.

WP

I didn't see any notice on the website. I had placed an order maybe in March/April, waited a few weeks, no word...called, emailed, called, asked PayPal to step in...and that was it. Docent never responded to any of my calls or emails. Still have not heard from them to this date.

Sucks. Sorry to hear that.

Got a bunch of boards you guys might be interested in...

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/82339

I noticed today that there were two different versions of the Victory playfield produced. One with the car on the flag background in the middle of the playfield, and one without. Anyone know why this was done? I noticed all of the extra NOS playfields that are floating around are the version without the car in the middle.

victory pf1 (resized).jpg

victory pf2 (resized).jpg

One is what they called a vitrigraph and one is silk screened.
My Diamond Lady has a vitrigraph basically a mylar with artwork on bare plywood.

IMG_8503 (resized).JPG

I have a Diamond Lady that i put all new boards in including sund board, but I am getting no sound only a hum from the speakers. I even replaced the speakers with new ones.

Any idea what could be wrong or where to start tracking down the problem?

Have you verified you have exactly 5V (or a little over) on the mpu? If you're not, you can have sound issues. I know because I just had the problem on an 80b game. I was getting 6.5v and the pot on the power supply was not functioning at all. Put a new one in and the sound works perfectly now.

Not sure if this is the appropriate thread or not for SYS80B game parts; if not please point me in the right direction

In transitioning from EM to SS games, my first acquisition was a Gottlieb Monte Carlo. Everything was in surprising good condition except for the Stargate Ramp's plunger / coil assembly. The thing was fried, and the plunger has been permanently bonded to the melted coil sleeve; it is simply not coming out.

Unfortunately, with this being my first SS machine, as well as my first Gottlieb, I do not have a bunch of spare parts lying around to fix this issue, therefore I'm wondering if anyone has (or knows where I can get) the following highlighted parts:

StargateRampMissingParts (resized).jpg

Again, if this request should be made in a different thread, just let me know.

Thanks in advance!!

pbresource.com is the go to place for Gottlieb parts. I find e-mail works great.

Make sure you have your part numbers before you contact Steve. He can be quite grumpy but does provide great service and is virtually the only source for Gottlieb parts

Not an obvious modification to the naked eye but a pleasant one none the less. When I picked up my Gold Wings it had the "popular" short leg/long leg modification which I abhor. The manual states 5.5 to 6 degrees, which is a fine suggestion. I had to crank up the front levelers just to get it in the ball park which made a tall machine even taller.

So yesterday while pushing pins around I freed up some time to take the generic black legs that were on GW, run them through the chop saw, fired up the welder and made them all an equal 26" as you can see in the picture. The flipper buttons are now at the same height as the Williams Touchdown right next to it and I can see more of the playfield.

Little gold paint and all is good.
20190728_053117_resized (resized).jpg

Howdy,
I recently picked up a Volcano that requires quite a bit of resto works.
The double back-glass on mine is almost non existent. Could I trouble someone who has access to one for a couple of hires photos of the BG panels so I can look into replacing them.
Can't wait to get it going and have a flip, the pops above the slings look like a challenge to me.

Cheers

Hi all,
Just wondering if any of you Monte Carlo owners could help me out. Working on one with the two 67 flashers on the sides of the roulette wheel are lock on. For some reason I am having a terrible time deciphering the manual and can't figure out which transistor controls them. They have the main driver board and two aux driver boards. If someone could point me in the right direction, I would appreciate it
Thanks

Any chance you have an extra speaker panel for Gold Wings? I've been looking for one for a bit now.

Anyone need any playfield parts or playfield from a volcano. Just got done swapping my playfield out. I now have my old one it is in decent shape but has ware around inserts and up by top flipper. No plastics

I assume you mean lamp #17.
These lamps are driven via an aux. transistor board.
I've posted an image from Diamond Lady, which has a 3 driver board, because the ipdb doesn't show them.
I assume the aux. driver board is mounted under the playfield.
Yours should have 4 transistors.
Q4 may be bad.

Peter

MC_playfield (resized).jpg

Driverboard_schematic (resized).jpg

Driverboard (resized).jpg

I have a Hollywood Heat one on mine, though I'm toying with making one from scratch. With a laser printer and water slide decals could come up with something pretty cool.

Expanding on Inkochnito's screenshot from the Monte Carlo Manual....

A13 Resistor Board Usage (resized).jpg

.....does that map over to the following.....

A11_Driver_Board (resized).jpg

If so, are we referring to the Auxiliary Lamp Driver Board (A11)? I believe that this is the board that is located under the playfield to the right of the Resistor Board (A13) that contains the 4 resistors that are used for the 4 pairs of #67 Lamps:

IMG_20190802_060319 (resized).jpg

Am I correct in my assumptions?

Nope, incorrect aux. lamp driver board.
Those are used for the running lights around the 10 million sign.

Ah, got it. Thanks for the clarification.

Hi All,

I went to play my Countdown last night for the first time in about a month. Everything was playing well the last time it was booted, this time the player 1 display was flickering and players 2, 3 and 4 displays were dim.

Ant thoughts? It has a brand new NiWumph CPU.

Thanks

Have you checked the power supply for voltage? Caps new? pins making connection? Ground mod done?

Has anyone switched out the solenoids (A-5194) that are used for the (2) out holes on Incredible Hulk?

Am thinking about putting in stronger solenoids

Thanks

Have not tried that, but interested in how it behaves when you do. What are you thinking of putting in there? an A-1496 like in the pops?

I remember reading somewhere that a fellow pinsider switched both out (cant find the post). He stated that the right out hole was so strong that it would shoot the ball up and hit the drop target bank.

My right side hits the drops now with the 5194 in there, does not your's? sometimes knocks 1 down, sometimes 2, sometimes shoots slightly left of them all and goes to the top lanes.

I re-checked the underside. my left has a 5194, my right has a 5195.

When the ball is ejected from the right out hole, it barely makes it up to the pop bumper

ah, well that would make sense, 5195 is not nearly as strong as a 5194 (12.3 Ohms vs 4.5 Ohms).

I haven't checked anything yet, as I'm away from home for a few days, will check when I'm back.

On my joker poker one of the aces and one of the kings givs lot of points and then resets the droptargets even though all are not down. It gives 2010 points when dropping and then ends up on 7010 when resetting that bank. No diffrent with groundmods done. Its the far right acetarget and the king furthest down. What chip on the mpu should I look into and meassure? Really odd

Cheers

#Genie
Am I missing it, or are there any aftermarket displays for this game? I could definitely use 2, but would prefer to replace all 4 to have matching brightness.

Boston Pinball, I believe is the outfit that makes LED displays for SYS1/SYS80 machines. The only caveat is it basically requires you to put a plug into the service outlet to power them.

I would look at the switches on the drops. are they making good connection, I had one that wasn't tight enough, so as I flipped, it would "bounce" and continue to give out points. are they too tight, so the game thinks they are already down?

Switches looks ok with an ok gap

Check the little diode boards on the bottom of the playfield. My guess one of them is bad. Common problem on the old Gottliebs.

So these guys are out of their displays, and won’t be making another round for a bit- anyone have at least 3, nice bright sys 1 displays for sale for my Genie?