I posted this over in the Black Hole club, and haven't gotten a response, so I thought I would post it here to:

I’m looking at buying a black hole that is missing all the boards in the back box. I want to confirm what boards I will need. I am looking at buying Pascal boards. Here is the list I have so far:
1 PI-80 board
1 Sound/Speech board with SC01 chip (I’ll need ROM chips)
1 speech sound power supply board
1 aux driver board (off eBay possibility)
Have I overlooked anything?

Nope, that should be all you need.

You might want to grab one of their pop replacement boards too. They are awesome and way reliable. I think they combine shipping and discount multiple boards, so it wouldn’t hurt to have one of those on hand in case you need it.

Pascal does have an all in one board as well. I'm using their all in one for a system 1 game and everything works great

For Sys 80 games like black hole, you still need a couple original boards or their separate boards in combination with the Pascal MPU/driver/PSB board.

Ok, I pulled the trigger on the project Black Hole Machine so I am now officially in the club. This machine is going to need a lot of work to get it up and running, but it looks like it has good bones.D131CFBB-5DFD-41A1-BF87-B33E30793D28 (resized).jpeg

So much empty here... I may end up spending more on boards than I paid for the game.
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According to the manual, there is supposed to be a plug with just a few wires in it for this plug. Does anyone have a picture of this plugs mate?515923A2-5169-478E-8BDF-DBCFD3D893CF (resized).jpeg

Great game! Hope this is helpful.
Don’t forget to check out the Black Hole members club as well

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Thanks, it looks like I am missing the inter board harnesses.

I tried posting on the BH club thread, but no one has responded.

My Cleopatra continues to conspire against me.

After another mysterious transistor death (and burned coil), I learned the Ni-wumpf driver board is supposed to have a ground connector in the corner and that's supposed to be wired to the back panel.

So, I connected that, replace the burned coil and transistor and now when I boot up, I get no coils at all. All of the LED indicators on the driver board light and stay lit. Displays and lighting (including feature lights) work fine.

I had a customer request a Gold Wings ramp in pink... I kinda dig it! I have pink LED's in my pops... I'd probably go back to white if I ran the pink ramp though.

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Email him through his website.
He his quite helpful; helped me and provided replacement parts for a display issue from the V1 board that was not even bought by me but by the previous owner.

I'm thinking about one of your Gold Wings ramp, have to fix the stupid game first before I pump another dime into it though. I might set it on fire and save myself a great deal of aggravation.

Maybe you blew the solenoid fuse in the process?

That's exactly what he just told me in email, and was in fact, the problem! I've been through so much here I expected much worse. Thank you!

Anybody got any kind of spare Raven translite? Would prefer an aftermarket if someone is switching back and selling but any will work, it's missing from mine. Also I will trade an SNS for a Stargate give or take, DM me let's deal! and I can travel, I'm in southern IN by Cincy. "motivated Gottlieb trader" --Lonnie

I also still have a Tee'd Off topper blockout plate if someone needs one.

I have been working on getting a Diamond Lady up and running. It was a mess and it took quite a bit of time to finally get it to boot up reliably.

The next issue was that you could add credits and start a game, but the ball wouldn't kick out, the flippers were dead as well as the pops and slings. I wasted more time than I'd like to admit trying to figure out what was wrong.

Turns out it was a misadjusted trough switch. I had no idea that open switch would show those symptoms.

I hope this admission keeps somebody else from spending a g'bunch of time on a simple fix.

Does anyone have an extra working 7 digit display I can buy? Maybe left over if you upgraded displays?
One of the displays in my Alien Star went out. Pn: ma238 or C-21390.

Are these easily fixable? If I leave this display plugged in none of the displays come on but if I unplug it everything works. I replaced the main 1ufd capacitor and the resistor tests fine on the display. I moved it to the four player slot so I can at least play 3 player games but it would be nice to get everything working. Any suggestions on what to try? Thanks!

I might have one, but not sure. I have a box of various displays. I’ll check either today or tomorrow and let you know.

Sounds good. Thanks for checking!

apologies if this is already posted in this topic. I'm trying to figure out how to put Amazing Spiderman on freeplay. This link has the answer, http://www.papinball.com/tips/gottlieb_free_play.html but I'm having trouble figuring out which side of the diode is banded. They are clear diodes. Never seen em before. I'm done this before using a jumper on Genie. Any help is much appreciated.

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The black line is off center. That is the band.

Thanks @Cheddar. That’s what I thought too, but it doesn’t match the description from the PAPA article.

“The wires will be located on the left of the diode strip - the non-banded side of the diodes“

Any advice?

edit: I now think the PAPA description is wrong. In my picture, the diode bands are on the left, so if I'm supposed to jumper on the non-banded side, I'll be jumpering at the right. I think I'll be jumpering the lowest wire on the right side (green yellow yellow) and the second from the top (green brown brown).

Someone oriented the diode strip differently. The non banded side in this photo is the bottom

yes, agreed. In the photo, bottom=right side. Thanks for the sanity check. See you in May.

You too, Golden State here we come!

Anyone have a HH manual? Trying to figure out how to remove the upper pf. Or at least an easy was to chnge the bloody insert bulbs buried behind it.

Found a pdf manual. All is good.

Success! Spider-Man now on free play!

I grew up with this Amazing Spider-Man and recently added new displays, a Pascal all-in-1 board, and a Pascal sound board. Had the parts professionally installed and the entire game gone-over. All fuses, capacitors, coils etc work wonderfully. The game is located at my parents' house so I do not have the ability to play it or work on it every day but I tweak it every time I go there. Yesterday I changed the switches on the sound board to "tone" which is the way the game was set for most of my life and it worked well; however, the volume is lower than I would like. I went through the settings and did not see a volume control, can anyone tell me how to adjust the volume?
Also the red extra ball lights are out, does anyone know if these bulbs are the same as the rest of the playfield bulbs? I spent about 35 minutes on the game yesterday but did not get a chance to raise the playfield and take a look as family was there for Easter and I did not want to abandon everyone.

Thanks!

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I believe the volume on that is the black knob on the Pascal sound board, although I can't find it stating that in the manual.

Yeah I looked on the manual but could not find anything about it. I will check that the next time I get over to my parents' house. Thanks!

stpcore printed mine. He did a great job with very saturated colors. His prices are reasonable and he should have the artwork for it. RavenBg (resized).png

This guy did a cool looking custom art package for Raven
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/raven-sniper-squadron-w-free-mods

Howdy! I've recently purchased a Genesis in need of work. I have done the ground mods and have the machine almost working fully. However, I am stuck on an issue with the alphanumeric display. As you can see from the pictures only a few segments light and some are very faint. The broken display segments are frozen and never change.

I put a display from my Bounty Hunter in Genesis and it works fine. I've replaced the two 7147 IC hex buffer chips on the board but that had no change. Any suggestions on where to troubleshoot next? Thanks.

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The two "939" Rockwell chips drive the two displays and is what I would suspect if everything else looks good. Frankly for the cost of the two chips you could pickup a good used display and be done with it. Just make sure the voltages are good on the board though, odds of both chips acting up are slim in my opinion but possible. I just got my Gold Wings display working correct and I'm picking up a spare for good measure, let me know if there is any readings I can do for you.

FYI looking at your pictures it caught my eye the cap has been replaced, is it the correct value? Looks far smaller than the original.

Hey folks. I have a Tag Team which is blowing 2 pop bumper fuses and the left kicker/4 drop bank reset. What should the coils read on a multimeter? The Transistor on the pop bumper boards are around 0.2 ohms... Are the pop bumper boards bad? What else should I check? All gounding complete including rotten driver board.

Ok, I posted this over in the Black Hole Group a week ago and got no response, so I am trying it here.

I believe the back box to my black hole is missing the door latch hardware. Could someone post a picture of the latching hardware? Does anyone know if the hardware was common to any other Gottlieb game?

from what I can see on IPDB it appears to be the same setup as the system 1 latch. pictures of the system 1 stuff in this thread:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/joker-poker-ss-backbox-door-hardware

I’m looking for a right sling shot plastic for a Volcano pm me if you have one you are willing to let go.

Thanks

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If it matches the system one mech or not you may be able to get what you need from PBR (pinball resource). I would text or call and ask.

As luck would have it, someone had a system 1 latch for sale in the classifieds. So I guess I am going to find out one way or another.

Thanks for responding so quickly. The cap isn't original but its 470uF compared to the 10uF in the schematic. It's had some obvious work done. Hopefully I'll get lucky soon or be able to source one.

I experimented with some different colors for Spring Break ramps... Hopefully after Pinfest I'll have some pics of what they look like in the machine.

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Unsure if this the place to ask,
Picked up Big House today in really great shape
Everything seems to be there except the chain on the “ball and chain” captive ball
Any idea if a replacement is available and if not any options?
Thanks!!

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Found it in the cab thanks!

With 2900 plus posts hopefully someone can shed some light to a 80b newb.

Picked up my 1st 80b for my girlfriend. She is a gottlieb fan. But no 1812 or cactus Jack's floating around our area and budget. So we purchased a raven for fair price for shape. Perfect for her as she likes sniping targets over multiball. When I looked at pin it played with no sound and would shut down. To get into the car I had to pull back box.

Got home last night and immediately put it back together cleaning as I went. To my surprise game played fine full sound etc. The ramp coil was burnt up. Plunger could not slide through it. But we played like 6 games before it did a reset. Went to bed and dug into it today.

Lifted up playfield, removed ramp coil wires/taped them up until replacement coil comes and did the ground mod at transformer. The back side of the male bolt down part at the transformer did have some corrosion. Noticed a wire in middle bridge not hooked up with a non gottlieb wire that Is soldered in with the Gottlieb wire but I have no clue where it goes to. It is currently taped up.

Get done and go to play but no more power at the uncontrolled solenoids. Pop bumpers/flippers/kick rubbers. Controlled solenoids/lights all work. Can run through self test no issues

Have voltage at all my fuses found at transformer. I Checked ground circuit from playfield to transformer ground spot via voltage drop. Ground is good. Power supply in back box voltage checks out. Confirmed my 5v readings by testing chips on various boards to make certain they were reading same as voltage supply.

No power at fuse 12 through 15. No 5v at pop bumper boards. Can continuity test from respective fuse to solenoid and it checks out.

My eyes hurt from reading diagram on cell. But only thing that makes sense is tilt or game over relay is shutting coils down. Is my mysterious bridge wire tied into this?

As I type this the other thought popped up that me removing the coil for the ramp took away my voltage for other items? As ramp coil is fused on 16 on playfield. I unhooked coil and all 3 wires. I'm trying to find it on diagram but have not yet. I'll print it out at work to where I can read it easier.

So any input from the crowd?

Thanks in advance

My only thought is to check the slam switch on the coin door and make sure it isn't tripped, just had that problem with my Spring Break.

Jody,

I will have those pictures for you shortly. I pulled out the old one last night and test fit the purple ramp. I will mount them today or tomorrow and take some shots for you. Thanks again, the ramps look great.

Joe

Good ideal. My coin door wiring is hokey. I lol check it out after work.

Mine was sensitive enough that the balls launching and striking the drop targets would set it off. Puzzling till I figured it out. Had the meter on the CPU board, watching the 5.0 voltage and trying to get it to act up.. and it was just a switch. Tweaked it and fine ever since.

Well was not the slam switch. That wiring was unhooked and skinned to short two wires together then taped. So fixed it and the credit switches.

Lifted up board and looked at game over and tilt relay. The game over relay was cockeyed contacts touching.

Fixed that and game now works.

To be 100% just need coil for ramp, 1 kicker leaf and new rubbers.

So I'm happy. Cant wait until girlfriend comes home from work to play it.

Only thing "off" is game sits very high. Front legs are 27 rears are 28.5 inches. Game leveled out still runs at a 8-9 degrees. Feels off to me.

I really don't know why people do this, manual states 5.5-6 degrees.