No voltage at the socket wiring, socket and bulb are therefore eliminated and there is continuity from the socket base to pin #9 of the driver board.

Updated- Socket and bulb tested fine, braid to socket is fine, tapping center of bulb to ground (done briefly) lights bulb in socket.

So were back to ground not being provided by driver board to light lamp.

My mistake on how bulbs are driven on this pinball platform, sorry about that.

I rechecked continuity from pin #9 to the 500,000 point socket center pin, all is good there.

Its a fun game, I have managed to get the loop special twice and extra ball a few times. I find the tight playfield to my taste, it really keeps you on your toes! Maddening trying to get the multi-ball release shot when the lane lights up, I'm not anywhere near close to perfecting the shot yet.

Thank you for the tip on the switch "reset"

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I played a game the other day that felt like ball 3 lasted two days. All settings on conservative and special awards a credit.

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Gold wings is a fun game.
I owned on for almost 10 years.

Love my Gold Wings... I love it enough that I tore it down and rebuilt it last summer.

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Now that I have most stuff working played a game with the Mrs. last night, she said she saw the attraction. It is a little fast and tight for her tastes, she really likes the EM's. Me too but it all depends in what you are in the mood for on any given day and I like the variety.

Did a deep dive into the System 80 PinWiki this morning to understand how the lamp circuit works. Were going to try and swap out the driver board as a fairly quick tests but at least I know how the circuit works now and may pickup a meter to test a few items this weekend if I have any spare time.

That restored gold wings is stunning.
I love the colored rubbers. Nice accent.

It is, I just noticed I have the wrong display mask for mine.

Since Gold Wings is getting some love at the moment, anyone know of any air craft carrier or plastic arch repos?

I think back one page someone mentioned doing ramps.

That was me. If anyone wants one....let me know. If I can get a few people, i'll make the tooling. Should be around $60 each. Leaving to pick up the plastic to start pulling Hollywood Heat ramps right now.

Test fitting first pull:

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Since the loop to loop digs into that sticker in the back, I made a piece of wood to span the cabinet with felt on both sides and put a sign inside the machine reminding me to use it.
You can buy that sticker from steve young for like $6.

Damn buddy, that looks slick!!!

Looks great Jody!

Awesome. PM sent.

Having a few switch issues with the Arena I just picked up, and unfortunately it didn’t come with a manual.

My top left “K” rollover isn’t registering, nor is the “W” Wall drop target and the 3rd stand up behind the Wall drops.

Anybody know if those three switches are in the same circuit from the driver board? Or what switch numbers those three are? I’m getting a notice in test mode that switch 66 is closed.

Also, anybody know where to find any Pit plastics? It looks like this guy had broken ones and fabricated his own (not horribly done), but I would like originals if I can find them.

Any help would be appreciated.

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Question for Gold Wings owners- Do the two cockpit lights work? I just noticed them when cleaning some connections and they don't come on during gameplay or light testing. I watched some videos on Youtube and didn't see them come on in those games either. Something that was never implemented?

I only notice them during the lighting sequence when a ball is dropped in the shooter lane at the start, they flash a few times before you plunge. Also if you nail the spinner really good the cock pit of the jet and the light for the missile flash for a few spins. But nothing during attract mode. Same with the shoot again bulb, only blinks when you get the extra ball.

L18, they are in the test menu under lamp and solenoid tests.

The missile flashes on mine during spinner operation but no cockpit.

Have you checked/tested the transistors for those lights and the others you were having issues with? I know you mentioned some other problems with lighting previously, did those issues get resolved?

The seller is sending me a driver board that was to go with the machine, he swapped them by accident when troubleshooting his other System 80. No sense picking at this driver board if another will be here in a day or two.

My Sys80b pcb went dead so I decided to try one of the mypinballs Sys80b replacements. I have it all hooked up, but noticed a difference, on the right side of the pcb there is only one connector whereas the original board had two. What do I do with the extra connector?

Thanks,

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What game do you have?

I have a Diamond Lady but I think I got it figured out.

Got a chance to try my first ramp dye job...in Purple. I am going to try teal, and a pinkish red close to the factory color as well.

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Looks great man!

If anybody knows of any Pit plastics or where to get some I’d appreciate leads as well.

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Anyone have a Diamond Lady that can send me some pictures of how the display is mounted to the panel? I bought a game missing the display but have the speaker panel.and need to see how it is mounted.

Thanks

Ramp colors are done! It is hard to decide which I like better.

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blue one

Ok, follow up to my questions!

1) The cockpit lights have to be 44's! I was examining the wiring and noted the sockets are wired in SERIES. Popped the LED's out and popped in a set of 44's and we are back in business. I tried 47's and it just smirked at me. 44's worked perfect. Problem solved.

2) The 500,000 light now working! 100% the driver board. I swapped in a Ni-Wumpf driver board and the 500,000 lamp was doing its thing.. but other ugly problems arose.

As soon as I installed the driver board on boot up the lower part of the display was slightly scrambled. This made me cringe and I turned everything back off, rechecked connections and even took some jumper wires with gator clips and made sure the boards had good grounds to each other. After several minutes the problem abated but would return if the machine was off for a bit. I happened to remove the plexi from the display to check the connection there and noted a very ugly looking cap. I think that is going to be replaced next and possible cause of cranky display.

Edit- I let it run for a bit and the display does it all the time now, I think it is best to shut down and leave off till caps are changed.

The other problem is when playing for a fairly short period of time some of the playfield insert lights would get dim.

Release, 100,000, 500,000, Capture and a few others would simply loose their brightness but still work. I checked all connections again, wiggled the harness, examined the bulb sockets with no change noted. Popped the old driver board back in and *poof* problem gone.

At this point in the program planning on doing final ground mods to circuit boards, replace the caps on the display board and check/replace the transistor on the driver board for the 500,000.

What say you on the garbled display? Cap? Did not start till the new board was installed, I'm assuming just coincidence it acted up the same time the board was swapped..
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Which cap do you think is bad? The big one or the smaller one at C2? I think C2 is the problem and the smoke stuck to the larger one. Do you have a meter with a cap tester? Just to be safe, replace both.

It looks like the big resistor below them was replaced and that's what put the smoke stains on the caps.

I think you are right, still prudent to replace all the caps on the board. I'm running into a hell of a time in my other hobby (vintage computers) with caps just failing sitting in the box! 20 years is a generous estimate on their life span as they just dry out.

Any other thoughts about the jumpy display? I'm almost starting to regret this, far more work than I have time and money for at the moment.

In the club - first time in a while...

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Nice PP and i really like those score cards . Were did you get em

Good morning guys and gals. I am about to embark on project Alien Star Resurrection! I picked up the mostly populated Alien Star playfield that TNT had posted as part of their cleanup/cleanout. It is in very nice shape, bottom area mostly mylared, some wear around the upper lanes and the pop bumpers. I will be stripping it down and doing some minor art touchup, mostly black, and clearcoating it.

Here is what I'm starting with, it does have the full wiring on the back.

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I have gathered together most of the other needed items, transformer panel, cabinet and coin door wiring harness, displays and backbox wiring harness, coin-door, buttons, switches etc. I will be building the cabinet and backbox from scratch, taking a few liberties to make it easier to build or for lack of original parts, but will look and function basically the same. I will be putting in a Pascal PI-80 board to run it all.

What I'm looking for today is some help in getting cabinet art stencils. I've been in contact with PinballPimp, who does not have the files for Alien Star, but he provided me with what he would need to make them, basically a 150dpi scan of the cabinet. I am willing to front the cost for him to do the artwork so he would then have it on file for anyone else that ever wanted to repaint an Alien Star, but since I do not have a cabinet to scan I am turning to all of you looking for someone who has an Alien Star and the ability to do a scan, or if close enough to me (near Seattle) would let me come over with a scanner and scan their cabinet. I can provide more details on the scanning, but basically just a small usb flatbed will work.

Thanks,

Thanks! And I have no idea - a full set came with the game.

Searched the interwebs for them. Go to:

http://www.pinballrebel.com/game/pins/instruction/PinballPoolCards_2013.doc

Anyone know if you can use system 3 side rails on an 80b cabinet? I need to replace the side rails...really hate the standard 80b side rails (plus can't find replacements) so was hoping something like this would work.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/28700-SET

The short answer is no, I just went downstairs and compared my Waterworld to Hollywood heat for you. The overall length matches up, but the button hole distance from the top of the cab down to the button is about a half inch different.

Good morning guys and gals. I am about to embark on project Alien Star Resurrection! I picked up the mostly populated Alien Star playfield that TNT had posted as part of their cleanup/cleanout. It is in very nice shape, bottom area mostly mylared, some wear around the upper lanes and the pop bumpers. I will be stripping it down and doing some minor art touchup, mostly black, and clearcoating it.

Glad you are pleased with the playfield!! Todd

Spring Break ramps are coming this week! If you would like to be included in the initial run, head on over to this thread and put your name on the list.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-spring-break-ramps#post-4930163

Missing one whole digit on only one display... Check for cold solder on the back of the display itself. Also, check for continuity from edge connector all the way to the pins coming out of the glass. I've had a bad trace before. Guess it could be a chip too. Review pinwiki here:

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_1#Display_Data_Problems

Thanks to JodyG for the new Arena ramp!

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Waiting on parts..

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Not sure if this is the right forum, but had a system 80 pop bumper issue where it was misfiring when the left flipped was pressed. Noticed the cap was bulged and that all 4 driver boards have never been updated. Bought the new parts based on pinwiki, updated one board and it automatically blows the fuse. Removed the parts and put new caps back in to match the original build and all is fine. Just wondering if pinwiki is wrong or has anyone else had this issue?

Hi All:

Does anyone know of a way to test a system 80 display? Picked up a Panthera and the MPU has issues; I want the rule out any of the displays as having caused the MPU problems.