If you changed board and nothing changes, it has to be the playfield.
Did you add a pull-up resistor?
It might not change the problem, but it is highly recommended.

You can try something a bit harder to test the driver board.
Disconnect the base of the transistor and add a lamp in its place.
One side of the lamp connected to the 6V of the other controled lamps.
The other side to the base wire.
The Q37 should turn on the lamp.
If that is true, replace the transistor under the playfield.

After pulling the rottendog control board, removing chips and cleaning sockets, cleaning all edge contacts, I discovered many the CR diodes are bad. CR# 10, 15, 17, 18, 23, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31 and 32 give a reading of around 1.6 when red is on banded side, black on non-banded side. Fortunately, I have a spare board with good diodes for replacing. I'll post if any progress is made.

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Awsome. Thanx for the tip . No I havent added a pull up transistor. Im back at the workshop tomorrow sp will continue then.
cheers

Thanks I found them, cant believe how many are on the backbox I gotta swap out. They are so brittle.

A fellow pinsider did me a huge favor (and spared you all from my constant posts) by informing me about Clay's guides. I'm going to dive deep into those guides. Before I begin checking IC's using my new elenco lp-560 logic probe, I wanted to post the latest. After cleaning rottendog control board U4, U5, U6, and ROM chips and plugs, I did not go through replacing those dip switch diodes mentioned in my last post. I retested those diodes, and checked dip switches, and everything was good. I also swapped U4 and U6 to see if all issues for SW42 would be corrected. No change as of now. Good news is that I ruled out some items without doing any further damage, and repinned the A1 display connectors (24-pin and 17-pin connectors). I'll have to post again when I've done more of my homework.

Thanks

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has anyone ever tried to mod the voice recordings of a Devil's dare machine with different tracks? Is it possible? Just curious.Thanks

There is no voice recording in the chips.
It's a different type of voice syntisizer.
http://www.redcedar.com/sc01.htm

https://ksarcade.net/new-used-pinball-boards-parts/swemmer-electronics-products.html

Unfortunately it shows 80B as currently sold out, but I’ve not had a single problem with my Swemmer board. [using with a Ni-Wumpf driver]

Swemmer is on pinside here somewhere, I forget his handle. Also can be found on eBay occasionally.

What a sexy translight!

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I had the 5v rail on two power supplies go dead.

HH went first so I swapped from my BH. Everything on HH worked after the swap. I put the good power supply back in BH played a game and no problem. 30 min later I turned BH back on and 5v rail is dead? Power supply #2

Extremely weird coincidence or is there something going on in HH that affected the 5v enough weaken it so that it failed in after swapping it out again to my BH???

Arrrgh!

I called Keith hes working on getting the 80B back in stock soon, has a few other systems ahead of it but hes doing what he can.
Thanks for the lead.
Hate to give up on the board I have, but its beyond me, I don't have the patience to dick around with it and I don't want to hog up this thread anymore than I have already with my newb questions.

That is odd. Were the power supplies that failed ever rebuilt? I can see original untouched power supplies both failing but rebuilt ones should be good for another 20 years or so.

Thanks for the info Inkochnito. I took a look through the references and enjoyed learning about the SpeakJet. Has anyone used that product before on a Devil's Dare? Any ideas on how to mod the SpeakJet voice synth for it? I've never owned or worked on a System 80 or anything other than a gameplan machine. I'm still a padawan after all lol.

Thanks

Here’s something odd.

I’ve spent about 6 weeks getting my ‘new’ Count-Down to work. Lots of trouble, also my 1st system 1 game so I didn’t have any expertise with it.

After much trouble shooting, I swapped out the CPU to Driver board harness and the machine works now.

Here’s the odd thing. When I checked the old harness, btw the wires are all re-pinned, the connectors are correctly pinned and there is continuity on each wire. The harness checks out just fine and in theory should work, but when I use it in the game, I get locked on coils and lamps.

Even though they were repinned, they could be the wrong pins. They might not be providing enough bite on the edge contacts.

Anyone looking to buy or trade for a Gold Wings? I've got one fully working, shopped with LEDs for sale/trade in the Marketplace.

SOLD!

Machine - For Sale

Gold Wings Archived

Partially shopped/refurbished - “Gottlieb Gold Wings for sale. Game works 100% including the original air siren. Has original working topper. Playfield is decent with only minor wear and tear. Ramp is cracked at t...”

2019-03-17

New Hartford, CT

sagejr

1,000

Archived after: 6 days

Viewed: 288 times

Status: Sold (amount private)

Thanks, I used Molex 05-50-0106 pins.

If the wires are all in the correct order as you say they are, the obvious things tend to come to mind for me first. Ground and data wires not making good contact to edge contacts on the boards because of length or tension. Also the edge contacts on the boards themselves might be worn down. Maybe the new connector is able to sink deeper onto the boards to give better contact or provide more tension.

Thanks, It's a new CPU. I've swapped harnesses and the game works, so I'm not terribly concerned.

For ground mods on a System 80 like Haunted House is this the best guide to use:

https://www.flippers.com/gottlieb_ground_cures.html#System80

Or is there a list of additional ground mods, etc that should be done? Only a couple were added and I want to ensure they are all done.

My game is playing well but the sound is off and I think it may be a bad ground connection.

Incredible Hulk Help.

I've been trying to resurect a Hulk. Been slowly working through all the bugs. Right now I have no flipper, or pop bumper power, or pf lights. Unsure if the PF lights are related. Driver board coils seem to work along with everything else.

Any ideas on the flipper and pop power? Yes the fuse was checked and replaced for good measure.

Also... does anyone have a pdf Hulk manual? Kind of flying blind. I have one on order but will be another week before I see it.

Alright Guys, I've read much of Clay's guides on system 80. One thing that I noticed is the free play mod. I used a mod from pinwiki which is an 18 gauge jumper between the middle coin slot and credit button, at the diode strip. After obsessing over all the possible wires associated with strobe 4 and return 2, which relate to my Switch SW42 issues, I never checked the male-female connector underneath the playfield, adjacent to the credit wires/diodes. There is a 9-pin connector that houses a green-yellow-yellow wire associated with strobe 4. I followed the wire and it appears to tie into where I jumpered for freeplay. Is this a coincidence? Could my jumper be affecting SW42, causing 2 switches to not activate, and the slingshots to remain silent (no sound effects)? This is interesting because the SWITCH diagnostic continues to say SW42 is closed, and the MEMORY diagnostic reads 99 (all RAM/ROMS good). I don't believe Clay's guides follow this jumper method for freeplay, and maybe he knows better. I'm just curious on your thoughts regarding this issue. I guess I can always remove the jumper and see what works.

Thanks!

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Any ideas on what could be causing this. It’s just started to kick balls out randomly

Hi, I've just acquired my first solid state Gottlieb. Its a Night Moves. The issue I'm having is when 2 balls end up in the outhole at the same time like multiball double drain or tilt the outhole solenoid energizes long enough to allow both balls to go to the trough. This leaves the outhole opto beam closed and the machine thinks there is only one ball in the game. The outhole will not kick the ball to the shooter lane and game cannot continue. In solenoid test mode the outhole solenoid energizes a much shorter period and only allows one ball through to the trough. Any ideas how to fix this?

Update: Removing the free play jumper between Middle Coin and Credit Diode/Wire had no affect on SW42 issue. Jumper added back.

Night Moves has an optical sensor? That surprises me but I never had one. My guess is you have a mechanical switch that needs adjusting where ball 2 sits in the ball trough. Just to be safe check all the switches in the trough area. One of them is likely your problem.

Yes, there is an optical sensor under the apron. Did you reflow the solder on the optical sensor board connector pins and make sure the opto lenses are clean?

If I remember correctly it only has one mechanical switch and that's in the trough. The opto is in the outhole. I can post a pic when I get home.
I did clean the opto lenses but that was maintenance and before I realized there was an issue. I'm fairly certain the opto is working correctly. There is a red led on the opto board under the apron. It is lit when nothing is blocking the beam and goes out when it is being blocked. The outhole stays open too long in gameplay allowing both balls to pass. In test mode it snaps open and shut only long enough for one ball to pass. I can try to get a video up this evening. Thanks.

Hi, I have been working on a System 80b MPU out of a Monte Carlo. I have developed a new problem in the beginning wasn't there. The main problem I have is pin 40 on the mpu (reset) shows nothing with a logic probe, if I uses a MM its about 1.7v. I checked pin 5 & 6 on Z4 and both are high, pin 4 is nothing with a logic probe and again 1.7v with a MM. I thought it was the chip and swapped it and I'm getting the same thing, does any one have any ideas? I checked z4 pin 4 to ground for continuity and its open.

I also have a shorted c34 that I replaced and is shorted again. I'm not sure if that is throwing the VB off and affecting the z4 chip, I'll look when I get in tonight.

Hope some one has an idea what could be going on. I did check and all the legs the reset circuit runs has continuity.

Here is a video of the messed up process in action.

I started a tech thread on this. We can move this over to that thread if its better suited over there.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/night-moves-outhole-issue

Found the issue, tilt relay was stuck on. Now to figure out why the tilt relay is stuck on.

Does anyone know how to adjust timing for how long the outhole solenoid stays on with these system 80B's? This Night Moves is bugging me.

has anyone done a PF swap on a BH with one of the new Mirco Playfields? Would love to see some pictures if so.

I was reading that a System 80A board should be able to be used as a replacement for a System 80 board without too much effort. Looking at picking up a spare 80A as a backup for the 80 in my Haunted House. Wasn't sure if there was a difference in the boards due to the 7 digit displays. Anyone using an 80A board in a Haunted House?

Problem Solved: The lower bent blade was making contact with both blades. After adjusting the switch blades, all sounds for SW42 locations, including those two lower slings, are working!!! Also, all SW42 switch locations now activate!

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Just bought a Roller Disco, a fun machine, but when I shake it,(ball not moving) it adds 10 to 60 points to score, sometimes with sound, sometimes not. I am a newbe, how do I begin to figure this out?

Put it in switch test and start shaking. The switches (likely rebounds) are too sensitive. Adjust them to be more open but still close when you hit with a ball

Agree, sounds like a simple adjustment of switches with to narrow of a gap.

Found my last issue. Tilt relay wa stuck on due to a shorted transistor on the driver board. Replaced and all is good now.

Gauging interest....does anyone need a ramp for Gold Wings? I am in the process of making Hollywood Heat ramps now, and may move to this one next. I also have repro ramps for Arena available.

Good Morning Pinsiders!

I picked up a Gold Wings with some problems.. and I'm on the fence about the machine. It is very fun, but I can't play when something is not 100% as it drives my OCD nuts. If it is something fairly simple, no harm no foul as they say. My biggest problem is working 50-60 hours a week in healthcare I have zero time to be picking up another problem child nor do I wish to invest what extremely little time I have becoming a System 80 technician. There is literately a backlog of things for me to fix at home that is months log it not longer without adding to that pile.

If you can point me in the right direction, I'd be grateful.

1) The 500,000 light does not come on under the aircraft carrier on the right side. It does not light during lamp test, attract mode nor during gameplay. The scoring however works fine. The MPU is seeing the roll over and adds the regular score or 500,000 when conditions are meet (along with the siren going off when 500,000 is struck) A digital volt meter shows a very low flickering voltage below one volt which maybe just oscillations from the other playfield lights going on/off. Led or #44 bulb, no difference.

2) The top left lane roll over does not register during play or test. If I pull the 2 balls out and run the switch test from the menu it comes up "All Switches Open" as it should. Triggering the switch does nothing in gameplay or testing. What is interesting, if I trigger any other switch in the test, that switch will stay up on the display till a different is triggered, is this normal? One would think it would go back to "Open" again but doesn't.

3) The loop the loop bonus build up does not work. The switch tests fine for the entry but the bonus and special light there never come on during gameplay. However during lamp test and attract mode the lights clearly function! During gameplay they are dead as a doornail nor is any bonus awarded.

4) Something curious- During lamp test #2 light will pulse the siren, is this normal?

That is all I can think of off the top my head. I have examined the connectors and they are all clean. At some point the mainboard has been sent out for work as it has a tag on it indicating that a slam switch mod had been done to it and it has a VRAM for high score. The watchdog board was disconnected, which I'm told is ok.

Oh, and where can I find the checksum for the game? I picked up a manual but didn't see it listed but the whole manual reads like something for a Winnnebago Lesharo, in French. Can't make heads nor tails of the wiring diagram.

Gary
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Have you done the ground mods yet? The first thing I have been doing lately before I do any deep dives on System 80B machines is reseat the switch connectors on the MPU. I've fixed a couple of strange switch issues lately from doing this alone.

I have plugged and unplugged all connectors which changed nothing and was told ground mods were done in the lower cabinet, which I have verified as being done.

I'm not sure I'm keeping it, was told at time of purchase it was 100%. I paid the asking price, with that in mind. If it is something simple, then no harm, no foul. If it is going to take hours of troubleshooting or board repair then I need to have that discussion with the seller, whom I have been in touch with and wish to give the benefit of the doubt.

I know little about System 80's aside from the ground mods seem popular and a few mentions in TNT videos when discussing bullet-proofing machines. Reviewed them since and if the machines stays I'll do that after.

Would checking continuity of wiring for the 500,000 light or roll over switch to its terminus be of some help? I just need to know where to look. Everything else seems to work fine, no display flicker, etc.

Follow up- Spent some time troubleshooting when I should be replacing an alternator!

Problem #2 and #3 look to be effectively fixed as I found a bad solder joint or two and fixed them. #4 is normal I think as Gottlieb will use a lamp driver circuit to drive non-lamp items.

#1 I think is a bad driver board. I have continuity from the 500,000 lamp base to pin #9 of the connector but there is no output. Thoughts? How do I isolate one lamp driver line to determine if it is the driver board or MPU?

I've got a flasher out on my Raven. I know it's cracked solder on the transistor for it, but I haven't fixed it yet. Could it be something like that?

Not sure, the former owner (who has been very gracious through this) indicates it is fairly new. Have to wait and see if anyone can chime in how to determine where the problem lies.

I just got a gold wings last month that had about 6 or 7 issues with lights, one of them was even the loop advance, all the problems were fixed with transistors on the driver board left of the MPU.

I know the frustration about not having the game work 100% and triggering OCD. The MPU on mine has a lot of booting issues because of the daughter board. But I had to fix a lot of light issues from blown transistors, a few solder joints need reflowed on various boards, did all the ground mods, and a few other things.

Doesn’t always boot but when it does I love playing this game!

Also what I’ve found during switch testing is once you adjust a close switch, hit the start button for it to clear and report all open.

The driver board switches to ground. So you never get an output.
You need to check the voltage at the lamp.
If the lamp doesn't light, you must have 6VDC on either side of the socket.
If not, the bulb or socket may be broken.