Home for the Gottlieb SYS1-SYS80B guys, Yep it's a club :)

(Topic ID: 73213)

Home for the Gottlieb SYS1-SYS80B guys, Yep it's a club :)


By Gerry

5 years ago



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  • Latest reply 9 hours ago by DropTarget
  • Topic is favorited by 191 Pinsiders

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There are 2814 posts in this topic. You are on page 56 of 57.
#2751 9 days ago

You're likely to know this already but be sure the pin is turned off before you change any dip switches or plug and unplug boards, displays etc..

#2752 9 days ago

Hey RWH,

Dip switch 22 is neither on or off...kind of inbetween. I'll switch on to see if any difference is made.

Thanks!

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#2753 9 days ago

Switched dip switch 22 to on/off, without change...unless I am misunderstanding the rules for this "Same Player Shoot Again" feature. I figured it should come on for 1-player games. Is this the wrong assumption? Maybe it only comes on when a player, during multiplayer game, gets a bonus ball to shoot again? In that case, maybe I'll leave the dip switch 22 on.

Thanks again!

#2754 9 days ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

When I turn on the game it immediately locks on the flashers and siren and won’t boot

You did the ground mods correct?
You also have to ground and reflow the ground headers on the left side of the bottom board.
There are either 2 or 4 of them. I eventually removed them and installed a terminal strip with a copper jumper to each ground to make sure my Gold Wings would behave,

#2755 9 days ago
Quoted from durgee7:

Switched dip switch 22 to on/off, without change...unless I am misunderstanding the rules for this "Same Player Shoot Again" feature. I figured it should come on for 1-player games. Is this the wrong assumption? Maybe it only comes on when a player, during multiplayer game, gets a bonus ball to shoot again? In that case, maybe I'll leave the dip switch 22 on.
Thanks again!

My shoot again definitely comes on during 1 player games when I earn an extra ball. Can't tell you what mine is set on though as its a few hours drive away.

#2756 9 days ago

Thanks, BorgDog. Between this lamp and the SW42 issues, there's no clear cut answer.

#2757 9 days ago
Quoted from PinballAir:

You did the ground mods correct?
You also have to ground and reflow the ground headers on the left side of the bottom board.
There are either 2 or 4 of them. I eventually removed them and installed a terminal strip with a copper jumper to each ground to make sure my Gold Wings would behave,

Thanks for responding. I made some significant progress since yesterday. Just going to capture this here in case someone has a similar problem in the future.

Did the ground mods. All fine there.

In a tantrum of frustration I grabbed the original daughter and intentionally ripped it off the MPU because I was pissed and literally wanted to burn this game and much to my surprise it popped off in my hand with no effort.....there were some major modifications. Someone removed the daughter board and installed a socket for it. Several traces and pads were ruined under the daughter board but repaired on the back side. Bummer about this is the fixes bypassed the TC1 socket so the Piggy Duex wasn’t working that I got from pinitech. The pins coming from the daughter board were oxidized and dirty as hell. I cleaned them and got them extremely shiny and reseated the original daughter board and then cleaned the chip really well and reseated and BOOM, game plays perfectly!

I also had an issue with the knocker blowing transistors and fuses. I went to test the diode on the coil and according to the schematics the band was supposed to be on the red wire side but was actually installed backwards. Replaced the diode with the correct orientation and now EVERYTHING works.

I know Gold Wings gets a lot of negative reviews but I’m loving it. Installed 3 spot lights and added all LEDs in GI and under the playfield. Also ordered the alternate translight.

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#2758 9 days ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

You will need to add the pull-up resistors

I haven't added pull up resistors yet, any suggestions as where to take the 24v from? The fuse block is not near the under pf transistors on Count Down.

Thx

#2759 8 days ago
Quoted from DropTarget:

I haven't added pull up resistors yet, any suggestions as where to take the 24v from? The fuse block is not near the under pf transistors on Count Down.
Thx

Just ad a resistor between the Base and the Emitter of the transistor.
The 24V sol-bus is already on the coil.

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#2760 8 days ago

Thank you, all the other pics I saw ran 24v from the fuse bus.

#2761 6 days ago

Hey Guys,

I checked all the diodes underneath playfield and they all give good reading (0.4 to 0.8) for black lead on banded side, red lead on non-banded side. When I switch leads, no change shows on my multimeter, just the number 1. I also checked wires and switch blades at the two non-activating switches, and wires/switches at the lowers slingshots that aren't making sound effect when hit. Between these findings and the previous check of unplugging A1-J6 (which then showed all switches open per diagnostic of 99), this seems to be a connector issue or mpu. That surprises me since it's a newer rottendog board. I'll keep researching. I guess checking control board transistors is something to consider. Maybe I need to repin the double edge connector at bottom of driver board...who knows. It just doesn't make sense to me why many of the SW42 locations activate and have sound effect while a couple do not.

Fyi - I have the original untested control board, but I need to remove that Data Sentry battery, clean it up, and find out what chip is missing from top side (not sure what to buy for a replacement chip). This could be a good option for comparing the two boards.

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#2762 6 days ago

looking for descent Count-Down BG

#2763 6 days ago
Quoted from DropTarget:

looking for descent Count-Down BG

a really hard on to find in good shape

#2764 6 days ago

Anyone know where to get sound roms for Diamond Lady?

#2765 6 days ago
Quoted from boilerman:

a really hard on to find in good shape

I'm assuming you meant hard one

and yes they are.

#2766 6 days ago
Quoted from DropTarget:

I'm assuming you meant hard one
and yes they are.

funny how just missing one E send this response in a whole different direction....

#2767 6 days ago

i found one at york about 10 yrs ago. i had to buy the complete orphaned head to get it. paid 100 bucks for it. one of the nicest ones i have ever seen. most are really bad

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#2768 6 days ago

sweet

#2769 6 days ago
Quoted from boilerman:

funny how just missing one E send this response in a whole different direction....

#2770 6 days ago

Got lucky when I bought my count-down a couple years back, bg is sweet, rest of it's pretty nice too.

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#2771 5 days ago
Quoted from jjoravec:

Anyone know where to get sound roms for Diamond Lady?

John's Jukes in Vancouver, BC.

www.flippers.com

He's the only one licensed by Gottlieb.

You could also try Steve Young at PBR.

#2772 5 days ago

Every once in a while I will turn on my Genie and the game has reverted back to factory defaults. It is running on a Ni-Wumpf board. What could be causing this?

#2773 5 days ago
Quoted from gweempose:

Every once in a while I will turn on my Genie and the game has reverted back to factory defaults. It is running on a Ni-Wumpf board. What could be causing this?

Your batteries are probably getting weak. The after market boards seem to eat them up quick.

#2774 5 days ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Your batteries are probably getting weak. The after market boards seem to eat them up quick.

I thought one of the benefits of the Ni-Wumpf board is that all the settings are stored in flash memory?

#2775 5 days ago
Quoted from gweempose:

I thought one of the benefits of the Ni-Wumpf board is that all the settings are stored in flash memory?

My bad, didn’t realize it was NI-Wumpf. Rotten Dog still uses the battery packs.

#2776 5 days ago
Quoted from BorgDog:

Got lucky when I bought my count-down a couple years back, bg is sweet, rest of it's pretty nice too.[quoted image]

that is a great glass, i bet there are not many that nice out there.

#2777 5 days ago

Hi All,

So I just received my new driver board. Is it still recommended to install a pull up resistor, or it it unnecessary with after market boards?

THX

#2778 5 days ago

Does anyone have a rottendog control board in their system 80? I'm starting to wonder if SW42 issues I'm having, along with "Player Shoot Again" lamps are related to a flakey board. I have a multimeter and oscilloscope, but no digital logic probe. I still need to learn how to use the old oscilloscope, but anyways...I wonder if removing the chips and cleaning any dirt or corrosion at the plugs could correct the issues. Just checking to see if anyone has experienced similar issues.

Thanks!

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#2779 4 days ago

I have a friend who has a Jacks to Open that is constantly racking up points 1000 at a time. Seems like a switch that is almost closed and vibrating. Does anyone know what switch on a JtO scores 1000 points?

Thanks,

Alan

#2780 4 days ago
Quoted from durgee7:

Does anyone have a rottendog control board in their system 80?

Did you try shutting off /unplugging machine and reseating connectors.
Those connectors look like the type that cannot be repined and may be oxidized.

Also, Are the ground mods done?

#2781 4 days ago
Quoted from Alan_L:

I have a friend who has a Jacks to Open that is constantly racking up points 1000 at a time. Seems like a switch that is almost closed and vibrating. Does anyone know what switch on a JtO scores 1000 points?
Thanks,
Alan

I don’t but that is an easy fix. Just pull off the glass and start up a game. Hit all the switches manually until you find the problem child.

#2782 4 days ago
Quoted from DropTarget:

Hi All,
So I just received my new driver board. Is it still recommended to install a pull up resistor, or it it unnecessary with after market boards?
THX

Yes, the transistor under the playfield still needs it.

#2783 4 days ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

Yes, the transistor under the playfield still needs it.

Thanks

#2784 4 days ago

Hi All,

I've been banging my head against the wall for about 6 weeks now trying to get my Count-Down running.

Fixed power supply issue, re-pinned connectors, re-faced the drop targets, new rubber, cleaned pf and cabinet, new lamps, Cleaned and attempted repair of original CPU (it actually may be good, as it boots), added a new Ni-Wumph CPU, lots of transistors for the original driver board and under pf, a new rottendog driver (to find out the day it was ordered that, while they will work with the Ni-Wumph CPU, it's better to use a Ni-Wumph driver board with their CPU), a new Ni-Wumph driver board....

Well, I've got the machine going. Turned out to be and issue with the CPU --> Driver board harness.

Sooooooo....... I'm selling my brand new, never opened, still in shipping package Rottendog driver board if anyone here needs one.

I may also be selling the Ni-Wumph board. It should be arriving at my house next week.

Also, I would sell the original CPU, I'm pretty sure it's either working or certainly salvageable, but I don't have a tester and plan on keeping the new Ni-Wumph.

PM if interested.

-Thx

#2785 4 days ago

Made this faux comic book cover for a light switch I have controlling half of the electrical socket my ASM is plugged into. I leave the machine on and just turn the switch on and off.

Just did this with PowerPoint and cut and pasted stuff ... played with the size until it fit the faceplate then printed on a sticker sheet of paper.

Looked for a spidey faceplate but couldn't find one, so made my own.

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#2786 3 days ago

argggggg,

New self induced issue.

I had 1 CPU lamp that does not light (L28), I had the bright idea of swapping ground wires between that lamp and the one next to it since I couldn't be certain if there was a bad socket on the lamp that wouldn't light as well as possibly a bad transistor. It confirmed that there is something wrong with the circuit, probably the transistor, I'll need to pull the board and check it. However, something happened, and I don't know what, but now the 5a sb lamp fuse keeps blowing as soon as I try the lamp test. I've even unsoldered the grounds to both of those sockets and it still blows the fuse. Rectifier checks good.

HEELLLLLPPPPPP!

TY

#2787 3 days ago

OK, Disregard that last post.

I'M AN IDIOT!!!! I'll say it loud and in front of the whole group.

The fuse blew, and I replaced it several times, removing the possible short each time in order to isolate the issue. As it turns out I was accidentally replacing the 5a sb fuse with a 2a

Put in 5a and all is well, except for the issue of L28 not working.

Lesson learned, maybe someone else can learn from this as well. At least I didn't put in a higher valued fuse.

SO, that brings me back to the original issue. L28 not lighting. There is continuity from the wire at the socket to the transistor (Q36). Q36 tests ok while still in the board.

Any ideas? Replace Q36 just in case? As a side note.... I'm pretty sure it's not the transistor, as when I had a different driver board in, the same thing was happening.

#2788 3 days ago

I wouldn't worry about it. At least you weren't replacing a 2A fuse with a 5A one.... That would be bad.

#2789 3 days ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

I wouldn't worry about it. At least you weren't replacing a 2A fuse with a 5A one.... That would be bad.

or higher, most of my stocked fuses are 10a or 25a

#2790 3 days ago

Anyone know anywhere to get these pcb post? And how to get the old ones out? They appear glued in.

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#2791 3 days ago

Docent electronics advertises them for sale, but I don't recommend them. Had to file for paypal refund since seller would not respond to my many emails and voicemails. Ok, enough about me...I would like to know who else sells those posts.

#2792 3 days ago

Maybe Digi-Key ?

3d printed perhaps?

#2793 3 days ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

I don’t but that is an easy fix. Just pull off the glass and start up a game. Hit all the switches manually until you find the problem child.

That's a good idea but the non-stop scoring starts the instant you press the Start button and doesn't stop until you drain three balls. Touching all the various switches has no effect.

#2794 3 days ago

Pinball pool left droptargetbank wont reset, its nothing mechanical. Game is like brand new on all levels including .156 connectors in housings. I did meassure the under playfieldtransistor but its a brand new so know thats not the one. Tried with other cpu and driverboards. Have a new powersupp intalled. Was unsure when b-relay is going to be activated so took a broken janincard and did drivertest...b relay clicked so cant be that. I have volts to every lug on the coils, b relay, fuse and transistor. Meassuerd coils and they are all ok.Still no reset. Done the usual before bootup check. Everything is really nice and shiny. The left droptargetbank work as it should just not resetting.
Any tips

#2795 3 days ago
Quoted from jjoravec:

Anyone know anywhere to get these pcb post? And how to get the old ones out? They appear glued in.[quoted image]

pbresource sells those posts, toward the bottom of this page http://www.pbresource.com/boards.html there are several lengths they don't have all in stock. they are screwed in from the back, at least the ones I have seen.

#2796 3 days ago
Quoted from DropTarget:

OK, Disregard that last post.
I'M AN IDIOT!!!! I'll say it loud and in front of the whole group.
The fuse blew, and I replaced it several times, removing the possible short each time in order to isolate the issue. As it turns out I was accidentally replacing the 5a sb fuse with a 2a
Put in 5a and all is well, except for the issue of L28 not working.
Lesson learned, maybe someone else can learn from this as well. At least I didn't put in a higher valued fuse.
SO, that brings me back to the original issue. L28 not lighting. There is continuity from the wire at the socket to the transistor (Q36). Q36 tests ok while still in the board.
Any ideas? Replace Q36 just in case? As a side note.... I'm pretty sure it's not the transistor, as when I had a different driver board in, the same thing was happening.

Did you try connecting the emitter of Q36 to ground?
Does the lamp light when you do that?
https://www.onsemi.com/pub/Collateral/MPSA13-D.PDF

#2797 3 days ago
Quoted from Andreas:

Pinball pool left droptargetbank wont reset, its nothing mechanical. Game is like brand new on all levels including .156 connectors in housings. I did meassure the under playfield transistor but its a brand new so know thats not the one. Tried with other cpu and driverboards. Have a new powersupp intalled. Was unsure when b-relay is going to be activated so took a broken janincard and did drivertest...b relay clicked so cant be that. I have volts to every lug on the coils, b relay, fuse and transistor. Meassuerd coils and they are all ok. Still no reset. Done the usual before bootup check. Everything is really nice and shiny. The left droptargetbank work as it should just not resetting.
Any tips

B-Relay is only for the drop target memory coils, not the reset coils.
Check Q17 (L17) on the driver board.
Check connector A3J5-1.

#2798 3 days ago

Go easy on me, I’m still new to this Gottlieb club, but with the boards. Every board is easy to find as a replacement but the MPU for System 80B... where are you guys getting replacements? And what I’ve observed popping up in the forum is people get boards from Rottendog and have problems with them.

This daughter board with the constant booting issues is driving me nuts. And the fact that there are mods to avoid these issues that I’m not able to use because of the previous repairs done to my board is a double bummer.

#2799 3 days ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

Did you try connecting the emitter of Q36 to ground?
Does the lamp light when you do that?

I did, it didn't, but the socket is questionable too. I'll order some new sockets from PBR next week.

Update: I changed Q36, even though it tested good on the board. That fixed the issue, except for the bad socket part.)

#2800 3 days ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

B-Relay is only for the drop target memory coils, not the reset coils.
Check Q17 (L17) on the driver board.
Check connector A3J5-1.

Did try with another driverboard that works on another pinball pool and the same. A3j5-1 is like new. Should I jumpwire from a3j5-1 to where?

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