I'm in the process of building a system 80A from the ground up. and have most of the important bits, but am looking for backbox and lightboard hinges. See the ad please.

Parts - Wanted

gottlieb system 80a backbox parts wanted Archived

Wanted! - “I know they used these in system 80A machines, but may have been in others as well. Looking for the backbox hinges and the mounting brackets that mount the head to the cabinet. p...”

2019-03-04

Spokane, WA

BorgDog

Wanted

Archived after: 42 days

Viewed: 81 times

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Have you done the ground mods? If not you should do those. Otherwise I'd start by checking your 5 volts from the small power board that has the giant heatsink on it. Disconnect the bottom connector and check the voltage on the board. What is that at? Should be slightly above 5v without any load. Then check the voltage again with everything plugged back in. What's the voltage at now on the 5v power supply? Lastly what's the voltage at on the CPU board at the capacitor. This needs to be at pretty much exactly 5v. If it isn't adjust the voltage using the pot on the 5v power supply.

If after all that you're still having problems you may need to replace the capacitors. As a general reminder when plugging and unplugging things make sure you power the game off first. Don't ever do it while the game is on.

Thanks for the list of things to check, I was trying to do some independent study and I came across the trouble shooting on pinwiki and everything you mentioned was part of the list! I'll give all those a try and see what happens. Thanks again, appreciate everyone's advice.
-Matt

Oh i forgot to mention that the headers on the 5v power supply could have some cracked solder joints. There's no support on those "wings" and at least on my board they were cracked really badly. I'd reflow those regardless of the state of things. Easy to pull that board and simple job to do.

These are A-17875

On the main playfield, I'm getting 1.6 ohms on all 4 flipper coils. However, when I disconnect the ground wire from one of the main playfield flippers, I get 2.9 ohms, so it seems like the coils are good.

Is it normal for the main playfield flippers to have this lower resistance (1.6 ohms) when they are in the circuit? I ask because the tests in Clay's guide says all the coils should read above 2.4 ohms.

Can anyone with a Haunted House please put the leads of their multimeter on the outside lugs of one of your main playfield flipper coils and read the resistance for me?

You were right about the pins. They needed reflowed bad. The MPU C1 is reading at exactly 5.0 after some adjusting of the pot. The power supply tests at 5.2 with load and 5.6 when machine is on with J2 pulled.

Still intermitently getting the siren and flashers to lock on when booting the machine. I guess check for the ground mods is the next step.

All of that sounds perfect. Reflowing that connector *might* have solved the problem. Even if it did you should do the ground mods.

I cannot figure out how to turn off the attract mode on Mars God of War. According to the manual, it should be switch #30. Here's a photo of my DIP switches as well as the relevant page in the manual. What am I doing wrong?

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Ha if you figure this out let me know. I tried to disable it on my spring break and all it seemed to do was disable the sound. The relays and flashers still go off as normal.

Check the dip switch with your meter from the rear of the board. They break all the time. Yours might be broken in the on position.

I don't have my manual, but I thought that was only for the sound and voice for attracted mode?

On a side note do you have any issues getting the ball to lock for the left war base? Mine is terrible to get it to stay.

The sound and voice during attract mode are exactly what I was trying to shut off. Unfortunately, the DIP switch didn't have any affect. Even with the switch off, the game still talks. Perhaps Mad_Dog_Coin_Op is correct and the switch is broken. It's not that big of a deal. I'll check it out the next time I have the board out of the game.

Mine locks most of the time. I'd say maybe 10-15% of the time it hops over the hole. I haven't really examined it too closely to see if there is any way to tweak it to be 100% reliable.

Try the dips on the sound board....
Dips 3 and 4 to OFF.

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Am I reading the adjustment settings table correctly? Who in their right mind would want to have the attract mode sounds going off every 10 seconds!

Sounds like a good strategy... someone would shove a quarter into it just to get it to shut up I guess

Either that or you just throw the machine out the window.

Are there dips on the sound board?
Volcano has the talking board and there are a set of dips on there as well.
Maybe you need to look in the manual about those dips< ( If you have them)

Still looking for some assistance with my problem. Anyone have any suggestions on how to fix my game?

Thanks, guys! That was it. With switch 3 and 4 set to OFF on the sound board, the attract mode speech is now blissfully silent. I wouldn't mind it so much if it was once every 20 minutes or so, but once every 4 minutes is a bit much. Interestingly, with the attract mode speech shut off, I now notice a very faint sound coming from the speaker about once every 10 seconds. I don't recall hearing this before, but it may have been there all along.

For the record, switch 30 on the main board turns the controlled lighting attract mode sequence on and off.

If you're looking at your driver board the lower left connector goes to the sound card if I remember correctly. Try reseating that. Bad pins can cause all sorts of problems. I would re-pin any connector associated with the sound card. If the connector is solid your sound card likely died. It might not be worth fixing depending on what failed. No worries, the aftermarket card is cheap enough these days and can be found at this website. https://www.flippp.fr/pifx1.php

The pins look ok, so I'm seriously considering getting the all-in-one board since it has lots of cool features too.

Keep in mind that the all in one board's built in sound card doesn't work for your game. You would still need to purchase the stand alone sound card.

Yeah, I'm already tracking that caveat. Glad it doesn't cost that much more for the sound card.

Replace caps on sound board yet?

What did I do? I was closing the backbox light panel on my Alien Star when all of a sudden I heard a loud "pop" and my displays went dead. Checked fuses and F3 was blown. popped in another fuse and the displays came back on (player 3 had a segment out) but within a few minutes I heard another pop and the fuse blew again and displays went dead. I then unplugged all displays but player one and it powered on and was fine. Did the same for the others and determined that player 3 was the problem.

Anyone have any suggestions as to what happened and what I can do to fix it? If something pops like that is it usually a capacitor? Thanks!

It has been such a LONG time coming for this one. I had ordered a Force II backglass from bgresto several months ago and it arrived today! This thing is an excellent replacement for my 1/2 flaked off glass. They even added the necessary color screens over the score display holes. Very nice. I like it! I've included some photos of this thing all lit up in the game and it sure makes a major difference! I wish there was a way for bgresto to get their orders out in less time, but I'm not aware of the full scope of their operation so I really cannot comment on that. I have purchased 2 back glasses from them, and also had them create a Genco Davy Crockett rifle game back glass for me as well and have been very pleased with the results each time. Anyway... on to the photos!

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Looks fantastic! Fire it up and play!

Thanks for the suggestion. I ordered a capacitor kit from Big Daddy Enterprises. Too bad the shipping cost is almost 10x the cost of the kit, but it will be money well spent.

Clarification.....Gottlieb used lacquer, but never made the switch to clear-coat as it is implied in the question - the automotive urethane based system known as Stealth Coat (in DE) and Diamond Plate (Williams)...Capcom didn't name it I don't think.....anyway - thought I'd share as it is believed all 90's pins clear-coated their PF's...and that's not completely accurate....ever notice the wear down by the flippers and such on Gottlieb PF's.....now you know....

Hey Guys,

I have only one more issue to resolve for my Gottlieb Pinball Pool restoration project.
The pin that should short out the 3-ball play does not work.
I've tried cleaning the contacts but no luck.
Always plays on 5-ball setting no matter what.

Any direction on this would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,

Todd

I think you need to replace that dip switch block. But until you do I think you can jumper from R25 (side that is connected to Z27 pin 1) to the non banded side of CR9. This will simulate the switch being closed. I would use a test lead with alligator clips for a nice non-permanent fix

Are you talking about the jones plug type pin under the playfield? That sets whether all drops are paired or just the even. typically on 5 ball only the even numbers would drop the opposite side when hit and on 3 ball all the drop targets drop the corresponding drop on the opposite side. you can however play 3 ball with 5 ball rules by leaving that plug on 5 ball.

dip switch 9 sets whether you play 3 ball or 5 ball

A new Gold Wings alt trans for those that want to "lose the cruise"

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Tarn-X + tooth brush and then rinse well with H20. Worked well for some tarnished legs on chips for me.

Ex1: Got my Touchdown to stop random rebooting.
Ex2: Got 2 different Pole Position II boards working. Chips and sockets all cleaned up. One board needed a new Z80A.

I was looking at this the other day. Pretty sweet!

So this issue is worse now than before. When I turn on the game it immediately locks on the flashers and siren and won’t boot. Voltage to the MPU is testing at 5v tried slightly increasing and decreasing with no changes. I also did the ground mods to all the boards.

Before if I would flip the game on and off several times I could get it to get past the flashers and boot but now it’s just locking up. Tried reseating chips. I also even tried getting one of those Daughter Board bypassing chips from pinitech to see if that would help.

What am I missing here????

Hi all,

I'm having trouble with my Count-Down. Two coils are locking on. I've changed transistors, but they remain locked. I have a new driver board coming, hopefully that will take care of the issue, but of course don't want to blow out any transistors on the new board.

here's a question....

I'm checking the under pf transistors as per Clay's site. I've disconnected the wires that run to the driver board, using a DMM, putting red lead on the case, 1 of the transistors checks as Clay describes, .5 from Collector to Base, and .5 from Collector to Emitter. The other transistor measures .5 from collector to base, but OL from Collector to Emitter. However, When I remove it from the machine, the transistor tests good.

Any thoughts?

TIA

Have you done all the ground mods?

Which coils?

Hey Guys!

I thought my Gottlieb system 80 Amazing Spider-Man was totally fixed until I watched youtube videos showing the bottom slingshot bumpers making sounds as the ball made contact. Also, the "Same Player Shoots Again" lamps are not working on the playfield or the backbox. I then noticed the switches for two SW 42 locations ( right middle adjacent to L26 and L49, upper right adjacent to L49 and SW 31) are not activating when ball makes contact. I repinned A1J5, A1J6, A3J2, A3J5, A6J1, and repinned specific wires at A3J1(B bar = Sound 1), A3J3(C bar = Shoot Again Lamp). Guys, I'm stumped and wondering if this goes beyond a simple edge connector fix. The schematic doesn't seem to clear the confusion on my end.

To sum it up, sound (and points?) not working for the 2 lower slingshots, 2 switches for SW 42 not working, and Shoot Again lamps (backbox and playfield not lighting). Does anyone see a pattern with these issues? I'm relatively new to using my multimeter, and may need to brush up on testing diodes, transistors, etc.

As always, I appreciate your feedback!

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Been working on a Sys 80 driver board tester. This one uses the Pascal output board and is driven by and arduino mega. I need to get the timing down and then I can shrink it down to a nano. It only uses 4 digital pins on the arduino. If anyone is interested in experimenting I would be glad to share the code

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As already mentioned make sure you do the ground mods. It just entails adding a jumper from the groun on the power supply, MPU, and driver board and run them to screws for the metal in the back box. There are optional jumpers you can add on the driver board itself but you probably don't need those.

Once that is done you can try again. If the coils still lock then shut it down and disconnect the driver board. Power on with the board disconnected. With that you can use a logic probe or voltmeter to check the output on the MPU that drive the coil transistors. When I had a countdown I found one was stuck on. In the past someone replaced the driver ic. However it was working. Issue was the pull down resistors on the inputs had an open resistor. That let it float and the signal was then on instead of off. Sometimes those resistors can be damaged by battery leakage. Once I replaced the resistor it worked ok.

Yes

The blue and yellow drop target reset coils.

I've also noticed locked on lamps.

I finally got my Volcano playing it plays great but if you shoot the ball immediately and it scores before the 2nd ball reaches the last switch in the ball trough the game will release a second ball into and advances to the next ball or player. If you wait a couple seconds before launching your ball it never happens but it’s hard to tell everyone to just wait. Any suggestions on where to look?
Thanks

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Those two have under the playfield transistors and are driven via L17 and L18.
You will need to add the pull-up resistors under the playfield for these two (if not already done).
Check the two big metal transistors under the playfield.
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_1#Remote_Mounted_Transistor

Which lamps are locked on?

Already done

Alright! 1/2 the issues resolved. I cleaned the "When Lit" lamp using dremel steel brush and works during lamp test...same with backbox. Still having issues with switch 42...strange how many of those items listed under sw42 work, but lower slings are still not providing that expected sound effect, and those 2 SW42 locations still not activating. I cleaned the switches with business card but still no luck.

Update to paragraph above: During gameplay, "Shoot Again" light still not activating, but I know those sockets work based on the diagnostic.

Have you checked the dip switch positions, specifically no#22 which controls whether the special lights up and awards or it gives extra ball during game mode?