(Topic ID: 73213)

Home for the Gottlieb SYS1-SYS80B guys, Yep it's a club :)

By Gerry

10 years ago


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There are 6,524 posts in this topic. You are on page 53 of 131.
#2601 5 years ago
Quoted from ElCid95:

Anyone know the part number that Buck Rogers uses for the nylon standoff's for attaching the boards to the backbox? I need to order a couple to replace some that broke.

PBR would know. I just looked quick but couldn’t find stand offs on their website, however they carry more than just the website

#2602 5 years ago

On this page http://pbresource.com/boards.html#stand

I believe they are the MP-52 which show as out of stock, but worth a call/e-mail anyway.

#2603 5 years ago

I’m having an issue with my Genesis game, with the ARMS (left) kickout hole. When I make the shot to collect each A-R-M-S letter, the kickout hole works fine. But after the letters are collected, and the ball is trapped for multiball, the kickout hole won’t release the ball when it’s time for multiball. Any ideas on what might be causing this?
Thanks,
Jody

#2604 5 years ago

I have rebuilt all 4 flippers on my Gottlieb Star Race. I still have problems making the figure 8 loop at the top left corner. The current flipper coils are A-17875, is there a replacement coil with a little more "umph" ?

#2605 5 years ago
Quoted from slgerber:

I have rebuilt all 4 flippers on my Gottlieb Star Race. I still have problems making the figure 8 loop at the top left corner. The current flipper coils are A-17875, is there a replacement coil with a little more "umph" ?

I have no problem making the loop shot. Are you sure you have the flippers aligned correctly? You can put stronger coils in but you'll risk breaking or cracking plastics, especially the one where the upper kick out is on the right. Make sure your flippers are not sagging any, mine are angled just slightly upwards. Star Race is a great game if setup correctly.

#2607 5 years ago
Quoted from slgerber:

I have rebuilt all 4 flippers on my Gottlieb Star Race. I still have problems making the figure 8 loop at the top left corner. The current flipper coils are A-17875, is there a replacement coil with a little more "umph" ?

New EOS switches?
New cabinet switches?
Tilt relay with clean contacts?
Game Over relay with clean contacts?
Ground connection is firm?

#2608 5 years ago
Quoted from ElCid95:

Anyone know the part number that Buck Rogers uses for the nylon standoff's for attaching the boards to the backbox? I need to order a couple to replace some that broke.

Make a google search for

"RICHCO LCBSM-5-01"

and you find various sources also in the US.

You can also google search for "FIX-LCBS-7.9", but maybe, you cannot find a source in the US.

Hope, that helps ...

#2609 5 years ago
Quoted from RWH:I have no problem making the loop shot. Are you sure you have the flippers aligned correctly? You can put stronger coils in but you'll risk breaking or cracking plastics, especially the one where the upper kick out is on the right. Make sure your flippers are not sagging any, mine are angled just slightly upwards. Star Race is a great game if setup correctly.

When I rebuilt my Spider-Man flippers I needed a few tweaks.

If you replaced the plungers you likely needed to pound out the set pin that goes through the nylon end of the plunger, and pound back in later. I found mine a little tight after and not as free moving. So I needed to use something to spread the metal holder a bit away from the nylon piece at the end of the plunger (I can add photo it it’s not clear from the description). I used a metal chisel... couple taps on both sides of the nylon to push the metal out a teeny bit.

Also, while there are multiple references to NOT put lube in the plunger itself (into the coil sleeve) I put a small amount of lube on the vertical flipper shafts where they go through the nylon sleeves. Others can chime in if they think that’s good or bad.

Also check the gap on the flippers above the playfield and nylon sleeves per Vids guides.

And of course the gaps on the eos switches.

Hope any of those help.

#2610 5 years ago

I can't remember what thread it was in but Blown Fuse (rest his soul) had put a capacitor somewhere down the line per/Janin Pascal so you could send him an email and ask him what to do. Steve said it made is so snappy that he changed back due to worries over broken plastics. The thread was old 4- yrs ago so if I were you I'd look at all the threads about star race.

#2611 5 years ago

Found it in this thread, it's post #67 check it out. Steve was a wealth of great info. Hope this helps you

#2612 5 years ago

Thanks for all the pointers. Flippers were completely rebuilt, nice way to spend a Saturday afternoon. I need to check to make sure the coils aren't twisting/moving. The flippers are aligned even with the in lanes. I can complete the shot maybe 1 out of 5 times without the ball "falling" out of the loop. I'm at 6-6.5 degrees on the playfield, I need to recheck side to side levelness as well. I've put more time in to this totally working game than some of my DOA projects, LOL.

#2613 5 years ago

I have mine at 6 degrees and it's pretty fast, 6.5 may be too much.

#2614 5 years ago
Quoted from Cheddar:

So a few months back I built a SYS 80 Test Fixture using the instructions in This Old Pinball 5. Clay supplied a schematic for the fixture. I was able to screen grab it and build one up. It's been very useful.
Now I'd like to do the same for system 1. The power supplies are so wonky that being able to repair them on the bench would be great.
I came up with this. I added a power switch and the recommended fuses from Pinwiki. Is this overkill? Any sys 1 experts who can validate this design?[quoted image]

Doesn't look like overkill to me. Actually, in my opinion, since the low voltage windings are center tapped, there should also be 2 more fuses at transformer lugs 3 and 4.

#2615 5 years ago
Quoted from CactusJack:

Doesn't look like overkill to me. Actually, in my opinion, since the low voltage windings are center tapped, there should also be 2 more fuses at transformer lugs 3 and 4.

I actually built it. Each VDC has a fuse except ground and a line fuse for 7 total.IMG_20190122_184556763 (resized).jpgIMG_20190122_184556763 (resized).jpg

#2616 5 years ago
Quoted from Cheddar:

I actually built it. Each VDC has a fuse except ground and a line fuse for 7 total.[quoted image]

GREAT JOB!!! Absolutely no overkill, this is the way, the small transformer has to be protected the right way.

Here is a schematic for SYS1 machines:

sys1 Trafoboard.JPG EXTRA FUSES (resized).JPGsys1 Trafoboard.JPG EXTRA FUSES (resized).JPG

#2618 5 years ago

This is more a follow up to post #2596 I have the mpu board out a Monte Carlo out of the machine and testing it. The main question is should the address lines be pulsing from U2? All of the lines I am reading are all high. From what I have read they should be pulsing. If they are what could be holding them high? I have a clock signal pulsing and pin 40 is high. I have tested other z chips and from what I can tell are ok and match what I have seen others get. I plan on getting an eprom burner and do a test rom in the near future. The piggy back board was replaced with a Swemmer and has 4 leds that are all on green. Any help pointing me in a good direction would be appreciated.

#2619 5 years ago

I need to replace the outhole kicker coil (A-5195, 11.6 ohms, 26-1305) on a Jacs to Open. Can I use a Bally AN26-1200, 12.5 ohm? Is there any chance of long term damage if I do?

#2620 5 years ago
Quoted from Alan_L:

I need to replace the outhole kicker coil (A-5195, 11.6 ohms, 26-1305) on a Jacs to Open. Can I use a Bally AN26-1200, 12.5 ohm? Is there any chance of long term damage if I do?

Should be totally fine. Add a 1 ohm, 5W cement resistor if you want to make it exactly the same strength and current draw, but I wouldn't worry about it.

#2621 5 years ago

Thanks dothedoo, go Huskers!

#2622 5 years ago

Alright I have a dumb question. For the big cabinet capacitor can you use a snap-in 15K 25volt type which is typically used in WPC Driver boards similar to what's shown below? thanks

large (resized).jpglarge (resized).jpg
#2623 5 years ago
Quoted from MikeS:

Alright I have a dumb question. For the big cabinet capacitor can you use a snap-in 15K 25volt type which is typically used in WPC Driver boards similar to what's shown below? thanks[quoted image]

I did and it worked fine, but I ended up replacing it with a computer-grade cap with screw terminals.

#2624 5 years ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

I did and it worked fine, but I ended up replacing it with a computer-grade cap with screw terminals.

Thanks. I tried this last night in my Alien Star which previously had 2 orange 6800 ufd 25v caps banded together (wired parallel) and for whatever reason didn't work? I was planning to buy a computer grade but thought I could get by in the meantime with the snap-in since that's what I had in hand. I'll have to troubleshoot tonight.

#2625 5 years ago
Quoted from MikeS:

Thanks. I tried this last night in my Alien Star which previously had 2 orange 6800 ufd 25v caps banded together (wired parallel) and for whatever reason didn't work? I was planning to buy a computer grade but thought I could get by in the meantime with the snap-in since that's what I had in hand. I'll have to troubleshoot tonight.

I have a follow-up to my earlier issue on my Alien Star. The other night I went to replace the 2 ancient orange 6800 ufd 25volt caps that were banded together in my cabinet. I replaced them with a single snap-in 15000 uhf 25 volt cap (non computer grade). After doing this it didn't work. When I turn the machine on it doesn't make any noise. I don't get any voltage on the Power supply board. I checked the 3 Bridge rectifiers in the cabinet and they are all within spec. I do get a small amount of voltage at the fuses but the game just seems dead.-I don't even hear any noise coming from the transformer.

I swapped in the old caps and soldered them in as they were before and it didn't make any difference. I also re-seated all of the connectors in the cabinet. the game is still dead. I checked all the fuses and they are all good, including the cabinet fuse. I even checked underneath the power supply where all the ground and power connections run and everything seems nice and tight.

Does this seem like something that will get fixed by putting in a new Cap or is there other issues? To me it seems like it might be an issue with the transformer or the power (wires) going into it? I know those rarely fail though and the only change I made was swapping in a cap (and then swapping the old one back.). is there a way to test the transformer? what other steps do you test if the problem exists somewhere before the Power board?

thanks!

#2627 5 years ago

Thanks. I've been studying up on pinwiki and Clay's guides but it seems like most of their troubleshooting steps are from the Power driver board onward. I thought it might be a problem with my cabinet fuse clip but I do get continuity. it's very odd!

I just ordered a capacitor online and it should get to me by Friday. Besides that, the bridge rectifiers, the fuses and transformer, is there anything more to test before going to the Power board?

#2628 5 years ago
Quoted from MikeS:

I have a follow-up to my earlier issue on my Alien Star. The other night I went to replace the 2 ancient orange 6800 ufd 25volt caps that were banded together in my cabinet. I replaced them with a single snap-in 15000 uhf 25 volt cap (non computer grade). After doing this it didn't work. When I turn the machine on it doesn't make any noise. I don't get any voltage on the Power supply board. I checked the 3 Bridge rectifiers in the cabinet and they are all within spec. I do get a small amount of voltage at the fuses but the game just seems dead.-I don't even hear any noise coming from the transformer.
I swapped in the old caps and soldered them in as they were before and it didn't make any difference. I also re-seated all of the connectors in the cabinet. the game is still dead. I checked all the fuses and they are all good, including the cabinet fuse. I even checked underneath the power supply where all the ground and power connections run and everything seems nice and tight.
Does this seem like something that will get fixed by putting in a new Cap or is there other issues? To me it seems like it might be an issue with the transformer or the power (wires) going into it? I know those rarely fail though and the only change I made was swapping in a cap (and then swapping the old one back.). is there a way to test the transformer? what other steps do you test if the problem exists somewhere before the Power board?
thanks!

Alright, I feel like a dumbass.... The issue was caused by an interlock switch which was located near the tilt bob in the cabinet. Do most games of this era have an interlock? it's not activated by the coin box or the coin door which I found a bit odd. -the switch is angled towards the back of the machine.

#2629 5 years ago

Yes, it's very common.
Sometimes the switch is bend back to avoid the game being switched off when opening the coin door.
You can also just pull out the switch.
You may accidentaly have touched the switch and forgot to pull it out again.

#2630 5 years ago

Will this capacitor be suitable for the cabinet? I tried it and the machine doesn't boot and has a lot of static noise?

IMG_20190208_174927 (resized).jpgIMG_20190208_174927 (resized).jpg
#2631 5 years ago
Quoted from MikeS:

Will this capacitor be suitable for the cabinet? I tried it and the machine doesn't boot and has a lot of static noise?
[quoted image]

Capacitor is working just fine now. Must have just taken a while to charge up and get acclimated in the machine.

#2632 5 years ago

Need some help with my Mars God Of War. My issue is with the right launch lane. As soon as the coil is activated it blows the fuse at F16. I have replaced the transistor, the coil and the resistor on the coil. Have a new drive board as well. I can use a picture of the coil and transistor wiring if anyone can provide that. I’ve searched pinside for a photo and can’t get a clear shot of the wires. Any direction would be greatly appreciated.

#2633 5 years ago
Quoted from Pin-one:

Need some help with my Mars God Of War. My issue is with the right launch lane. As soon as the coil is activated it blows the fuse at F16. I have replaced the transistor, the coil and the resistor on the coil. Have a new drive board as well. I can use a picture of the coil and transistor wiring if anyone can provide that. I’ve searched pinside for a photo and can’t get a clear shot of the wires. Any direction would be greatly appreciated.

Did you replace all those parts at once? Or one at a time? I know some will blow the transistor and coil diode so it is a never ending loop, so they have to be done at the same time.

#2634 5 years ago

I did them one at a time. The board was the last thing.

#2635 5 years ago

My guess is the wiring on the coil is backwards, but mine is in storage so I can't provide a pic unfortunately.

#2636 5 years ago

Made a gameplay video for all you lovers of Bad Girls out there. Be proud!

#2637 5 years ago
Quoted from Jappie:

Made a gameplay video for all you lovers of Bad Girls out there. Be proud!

Best version of Eight Ball Deluxe hands down

I love 80s Gottlieb games (I have Raven, Genesis, and Tag-Team), but that translite is a hard sell. That said, I would squeeze one in if I had room.

May be putting up Tag-Team shortly. Just saved a Genie with a Lisy1 board and a new power supply; now I need space. So many games, so little space.

#2638 5 years ago

Small question here: Is there a way I can find the audits for a game, even if the battery has long been replaced (assuming it's stored electronically)? Reading another thread had me curious about how many games my Night Moves had seen, but I don't recall seeing any counters anywhere.

#2639 5 years ago

Joker Poker no chime sound. Recrimped the contacts, tested with 2 diffrent janinboards, tested with 2 diffrent chime units. New coils and diods on chime unit. When doing test the 10 and 100 works but not the 1000. When playing a game no sound at all. What am I missing?

#2640 5 years ago

So I have a couple last issues with Spring Break. I put LED's in the 1, 2 and 3 inserts because to replace the bulb in 2 I had to desolder the leads to the socket because the wires were way too short. Didn't want to have to do that every time to replace the bulb. Inserts 1 and 3 turn off when hit in game but 2 does not (usually. I think I've seen it turn off once?). It does however turn off in lamp test as well as attract mode. Anyone got any ideas why it would turn off then but not in game?

The bigger issue however is that with the connector for the reset board plugged in to TC1 the game does not boot. I tracked this down to the diode that is on it. I didn't have the correct diode so I replaced it with a 1N4004 which I was told should work in its place but that didn't fix the issue. Not sure what else to do to fix it so that I can plug the reset board back in.

Also is it common for these games to lock up on power on and require power cycling to fix? A couple times when first turning it on for the day it'll lock up about halfway through boot. I've replaced all of the capacitors so it *shouldn't* be a capacitor issue.

I also just got a Black Hole that needs a little bit of work. One of the two capacitors in the bottom of the cabinet has been replaced but whoever did it used a capacitor that is physically much larger than the stock one so it's just laying loose in the bottom of the cabinet. I looked around online but I couldn't find mention of a 2nd capacitor and what value it should be. Should both capacitors be the same value that is in a normal Sys80?

The other issue is the apron display isn't currently working. I believe it was working before being moved but now it displays what appear to be 3 e's. I haven't looked anything up about this display or looked at it yet to see if it's a loose connection or something but figured I'd mention it since I'm already posting.

Quoted from Shaneus:

Small question here: Is there a way I can find the audits for a game, even if the battery has long been replaced (assuming it's stored electronically)? Reading another thread had me curious about how many games my Night Moves had seen, but I don't recall seeing any counters anywhere.

Once audits are wiped they are gone forever.

#2641 5 years ago
Quoted from pinball_ric:

The bigger issue however is that with the connector for the reset board plugged in to TC1 the game does not boot. I tracked this down to the diode that is on it. I didn't have the correct diode so I replaced it with a 1N4004 which I was told should work in its place but that didn't fix the issue. Not sure what else to do to fix it so that I can plug the reset board back in.

Why do you need the reset board? I'd just leave it unplugged.

#2642 5 years ago

Hey Guys,

I didn't know where in the thread to post my question on ASM gottlieb system 80. Please ignore if this ruins the flow of your conversation directly above this post.

I'm hoping someone in the group has a photo for the following issue:

I attached that barrel and nut. It was just a hole, no barrel in place. I'm trying to add it back so it works as intended. For all I know, I bought the wrong lock for this mechanism. I just can't seem to find a picture online showing a fully working backbox lock mechanism. The previous owner tied two metal brackets (with black tie, see pic below) that appear to have a role...I just can't figure it out yet. I didn't attach the locking latch and screw that goes on the inside of the barrel (similar to latch used to hold coin door closed/locked).

Thanks!

20190220_194645 (resized).jpg20190220_194645 (resized).jpg
#2643 5 years ago
Quoted from pinball_ric:

So I have a couple last issues with Spring Break. I put LED's in the 1, 2 and 3 inserts because to replace the bulb in 2 I had to desolder the leads to the socket because the wires were way too short. Didn't want to have to do that every time to replace the bulb. Inserts 1 and 3 turn off when hit in game but 2 does not (usually. I think I've seen it turn off once?). It does however turn off in lamp test as well as attract mode. Anyone got any ideas why it would turn off then but not in game?
The bigger issue however is that with the connector for the reset board plugged in to TC1 the game does not boot. I tracked this down to the diode that is on it. I didn't have the correct diode so I replaced it with a 1N4004 which I was told should work in its place but that didn't fix the issue. Not sure what else to do to fix it so that I can plug the reset board back in.
Also is it common for these games to lock up on power on and require power cycling to fix? A couple times when first turning it on for the day it'll lock up about halfway through boot. I've replaced all of the capacitors so it *shouldn't* be a capacitor issue.
I also just got a Black Hole that needs a little bit of work. One of the two capacitors in the bottom of the cabinet has been replaced but whoever did it used a capacitor that is physically much larger than the stock one so it's just laying loose in the bottom of the cabinet. I looked around online but I couldn't find mention of a 2nd capacitor and what value it should be. Should both capacitors be the same value that is in a normal Sys80?
The other issue is the apron display isn't currently working. I believe it was working before being moved but now it displays what appear to be 3 e's. I haven't looked anything up about this display or looked at it yet to see if it's a loose connection or something but figured I'd mention it since I'm already posting.

Once audits are wiped they are gone forever.

For Bh
Check under the apron, on mine they had cut off the connector and soldered the wires directly to the display, could be a bad connection.

Here is a good kit for the lower cab power rebuild
http://www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com/repairkits/gottlieb_kits.htm#g-80ps1

#2644 5 years ago

Is there anyone out there that has a freeplay modified game prom for Gottlieb Rock? I'm looking to buy one that is plug and play already modified.

#2645 5 years ago
Quoted from durgee7:

Hey Guys,
I didn't know where in the thread to post my question on ASM gottlieb system 80. Please ignore if this ruins the flow of your conversation directly above this post.
I'm hoping someone in the group has a photo for the following issue:
I attached that barrel and nut. It was just a hole, no barrel in place. I'm trying to add it back so it works as intended. For all I know, I bought the wrong lock for this mechanism. I just can't seem to find a picture online showing a fully working backbox lock mechanism. The previous owner tied two metal brackets (with black tie, see pic below) that appear to have a role...I just can't figure it out yet. I didn't attach the locking latch and screw that goes on the inside of the barrel (similar to latch used to hold coin door closed/locked).
Thanks![quoted image]

basically just cut that zip and screw the bar to the lock mech, it has a square hole in the end, make sure it's the right direction first. Here is a couple pics of mine first one in open position, second one in locked. note in the locked position you can't have the light board all the way open it will hit the bar.

IMG_20190221_174134 (resized).jpgIMG_20190221_174134 (resized).jpgIMG_20190221_174219 (resized).jpgIMG_20190221_174219 (resized).jpg
#2646 5 years ago

Thanks again BorgDog! Btw, got my new backglass installed, and I'm loving this pin.

20190221_195604 (resized).jpg20190221_195604 (resized).jpg
#2647 5 years ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

Why do you need the reset board? I'd just leave it unplugged.

Because I can't guarantee that it would be powered off in a timely manner if it locked up. The ground mods are done so maybe that's not such a big concern but it also might go to TPF in which case I'd feel much more comfortable with the reset board functional.

#2648 5 years ago

Hi All,

I just joined a few weeks ago with a Count-Down. It's given me nothing but trouble!

Starting with no key for the back box. Had to break in....that was fun! Then I replaced the lock, but with the head locked, the nut on the back of the cam fell off, so I had to break in a second time! Oh, yes, the third time was when the door closed and the bottom hook dropped on it's own.... I'm getting pretty good at fishing with a wire hanger.

I've re-pinned the connectors, fixed an issue with the power supply, re-faced the drop targets, cleaned acid damage to the MPU and replaced a few IC's, even though I think they were good, cleaned switches, pf, cabinet etc., rebuilt flippers and probably some other stuff that escapes me now.

The main issue(s) right now is(are) that the blue drop target reset coil locks on, while the other drop target banks won't reset. I've checked transistors, they appear fine. I even bought a replacement MPU, but that didn't fix the problem.

Any thoughts where to look next? and does anyone need a replacement MPU? If my original is actually good, I'll either keep it and sell the new replacement, or keep the replacement and sell the original, not sure yet. 1st have to get this beast working.

Oh, does anyone have a Count-Down back glass to sell?

#2649 5 years ago

Have you done the ground mods yet? Just one wire from each of the boards to the metal plate in the backbox.

When I had mine I had replaced a few bad transistors on the driver and went over the MPU and cables as well. One coil would lock on. You should be able to leave the connections for the coils off and power the game up. Use a logic probe or meter to check each of the solenoid outputs at the driver and also at the MPU.

The problem on mine was that one of the pull down resistors was open on the MPU. Replaced it and the coil no longer locked on and worked properly.

#2650 5 years ago

Yes, did the mods and Brand new MPU. Good idea to check outputs at the boards. Ty

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