(Topic ID: 73213)

Home for the Gottlieb SYS1-SYS80B guys, Yep it's a club :)

By Gerry

10 years ago


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There are 6,511 posts in this topic. You are on page 52 of 131.
#2551 5 years ago

I believe it should be bare copper. I've had great luck using a Dremel with an abrasive buff (like a scotchbrite). Takes the oxidation off without cutting through the copper.

If it's too far gone though, your method of tinning is good.

#2552 5 years ago

Anyone know how to light the spinner on Circus? I did it once during a long ball, but wasn’t really paying attention to that area and I’m not finding any text on the art describing how.

32AF576F-42CA-448A-8D6F-84ADE7555693 (resized).jpeg32AF576F-42CA-448A-8D6F-84ADE7555693 (resized).jpegEA51F870-F403-47CA-A4A4-09315AA01327 (resized).jpegEA51F870-F403-47CA-A4A4-09315AA01327 (resized).jpeg
#2553 5 years ago

When you go through both side lanes that have the blue lights it will light the spinner. Circus is really a great game, love mine.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/circus-gottlieb-1980-fans-and-members-welcome

There are videos showing game play and scoring. Second video shows how to light different features.

#2554 5 years ago
Quoted from RWH:

When you go through both side lanes that have the blue lights it will light the spinner. Circus is really a great game, love mine.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/circus-gottlieb-1980-fans-and-members-welcome
There are videos showing game play and scoring. Second video shows how to light different features.

Cool, thanks.

#2555 5 years ago

Hey Guys,

I have a Pinball Pool System 1.
Works great except for the light on the 13 ball on the playfield.
Light starts out lit up and goes off when the knockdown for the 13 ball is hit.
Totally opposite of the rest of the ball lights.

Any idea where to begin troubleshooting this?
Seems like an easy wire/solder fix but can't seem to trace the wires as there are just too many.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

#2556 5 years ago
Quoted from toddharper:

… Works great except for the light on the 13 ball on the playfield. ...

Hi,
On Pinball Pool, the 13 ball light is the controled lamp #28 and depend of the state of the drop target #70.
2018-12-05_09h51_44 (resized).png2018-12-05_09h51_44 (resized).png
As the drop target is detected, the issue is more on the lamps circuit than in the switch matrix.
So, the problem should come from the lamp #28 command:
2018-12-05_09h42_11 (resized).png2018-12-05_09h42_11 (resized).png

On SYSTEM-1, the controled lamp circuit is simple : all lamps have a common pin connected to the +6 V DC (switched by the tilt relay), and the other pin is driven to the ground by the driver board. A transistor drive the pin to the ground. The lamp #28 is controled by the Z7 chip (74175) and Q36 transistor (MPS-A13):
2018-12-05_09h39_44 (resized).png2018-12-05_09h39_44 (resized).png

The easiest way to check if the issue comes from the driver board, is to exchange it with another one.
Most probably, your driver board need to be repaired.

As the behaviour of the lamp #28 is inverted, it is less probable than Q36 is deffective, but more an issue on Z7.
But, check if the Q36 transistor has been replaced… may be someone has mounted a wrong reference ! must be a MPS-A13.

#2557 5 years ago
Quoted from noflip95:

Hi,
On Pinball Pool, the 13 ball light is the controled lamp #28 and depend of the state of the drop target #70.
[quoted image]
As the drop target is detected, the issue is more on the lamps circuit than in the switch matrix.
So, the problem should come from the lamp #28 command:
[quoted image]
On SYSTEM-1, the controled lamp circuit is simple : all lamps have a common pin connected to the +6 V DC (switched by the tilt relay), and the other pin is driven to the ground by the driver board. A transistor drive the pin to the ground. The lamp #28 is controled by the Z7 chip (74175) and Q36 transistor (MPS-A13):
[quoted image]
The easiest way to check if the issue comes from the driver board, is to exchange it with another one.
Most probably, your driver board need to be repaired.
As the behaviour of the lamp #28 is inverted, it is less probable than Q36 is deffective, but more an issue on Z7.
But, check if the Q36 transistor has been replaced… may be someone has mounted a wrong reference ! must be a MPS-A13.

Wow! Thanks for your reply and the information, much appreciated and very nice!
I took the easy route and swapped out the driver board from my System 1 Dragon, that did the trick!
The driver board on the Pinball Pool looked pretty bad, and looked like someone had tried to do some failed soldering on it - lol

Thanks again for the advice! I may have another Q or 2 as I work through this restoration.

Todd

#2558 5 years ago

Restored a Tx Sector to brand new condition but it won’t start a game. All switches , lamps and solenoids are good when I run diagnostics. Every single connector was repinned. Boards were sent to the Coin op Cauldron. Grounding mods done. Three balls are loaded.
Attract music and light show plays but when I hit start - nada. Just a whooshing sound from the speakers.
Any ideas on a solution would be greatly appreciated!

#2559 5 years ago
Quoted from Vandy89:

Restored a Tx Sector to brand new condition but it won’t start a game. All switches , lamps and solenoids are good when I run diagnostics. Every single connector was repinned. Boards were sent to the Coin op Cauldron. Grounding mods done. Three balls are loaded.
Attract music and light show plays but when I hit start - nada. Just a whooshing sound from the speakers.
Any ideas on a solution would be greatly
appreciated!

Check the ball trough that all switches there are closed indicating 3 balls in the trough register. Then make sure you have coin credits to start a ball. Just because the balls are in there doesn’t mean they are closing the switches properly

#2560 5 years ago

The ball trough switch was the problem.
Thanks!

#2561 5 years ago

My lisy1 and parts are almost here!

#2562 5 years ago

Lets rock n roll!

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#2564 5 years ago

Got my Tx Sector to start a game. Music plays but there is no speech. Boards were repaired/tested at Coin Op Cauldron.
Any input regarding a fix would be greatly appreciated.

#2565 5 years ago

ok guys I need some help I have 4 controlled lights on my 80B Bounty Hunter that are not working L6, L7, L8, L9 I changed out the a13's and there was no change so I put in another driver board (one that I know has problems) but I thought there is no way the same 4 lights wouldn't work on that board and sure enough they still don't work what should I check next down the line?
Thanks, Jeff

#2566 5 years ago

Looking for a Gold Wings speaker panel and the top left corner plastic. If you have these available please let me know asap.

Thanks!

#2567 5 years ago
Quoted from wildwillys:

so I put in another driver board

I may have had the same problem on a Raven that I used to have. Is the board that you replaced the driver board? If so, check your manual and see if there is a separate Chaser Lamp board that drives just those few lamps. I can't see it on the IPDB or there may not be one. But if you find it, remove it and reflow the header pins. That's all mine needed.

#2568 5 years ago

https://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=1922&picno=25202

Here's a good pic of that Chaser Lamp board on a 80b Raven. It's the small board that is in the middle of the rectangular board that is perpendicular to the playfield toward that bottom of the pic. Reflow both headers if you have one.

#2569 5 years ago

Anyone have a pdf of the Force II schematics? I have a hard copy of the manual already but not the schematics..... I know... pbr..... I have one light that is out in the entire game. Lamp is good, socket is good, have continuity to ground, have continiuity to driver board connector pin, replaced the corrosponding mpsa13 transistor, no change. This is a play field feature light for the top "extra ball" light just below the set of 4 white drop targets.

#2570 5 years ago
Quoted from Alan_L:

https://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=1922&picno=25202
Here's a good pic of that Chaser Lamp board on a 80b Raven. It's the small board that is in the middle of the rectangular board that is perpendicular to the playfield toward that bottom of the pic. Reflow both headers if you have one.

pretty sure it does not have one of those boards in it but I will pop the playfield tonight and check
Jeff

#2571 5 years ago

I can't find a Hollywood Heat club and I just have to share this. I did a proof of concept on Fiverr to see how this would look. I have a few changes I want to do then it's off to the printer.Untitled-2 (resized).jpgUntitled-2 (resized).jpg

#2572 5 years ago
Quoted from Cheddar:

I can't find a Hollywood Heat club and I just have to share this. I did a proof of concept on Fiverr to see how this would look. I have a few changes I want to do then it's off to the printer.[quoted image]

Looks like a good start.

club here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hollywood-heat-club-meet-out-front-of-the-carlyle-hotel/

#2573 5 years ago

First try, I put the LISY1 in the roller disco. Fired up! Worked great. Also found a wire that broke off a pin on the interconnect harness, which was the coil for the left drop bank reset issue I had. Going to order another board!

EBB24C45-BA55-470D-A0F6-58C35C92AA85 (resized).jpegEBB24C45-BA55-470D-A0F6-58C35C92AA85 (resized).jpeg
1 week later
#2574 5 years ago

What is the standard slope for System One games? I have Buck Rogers and 4 degrees is a bit much for the tilt bob.

#2575 5 years ago
Quoted from ElCid95:

What is the standard slope for System One games? I have Buck Rogers and 4 degrees is a bit much for the tilt bob.

That is probably close to what gottlieb intended, they usually said to screw leg levelers all the way in (assuming you have original, or at least all the same), then just level as needed. I prefer mine faster and steeper and mine are all at 5.5 to 6 degrees, very different game at that. I think it comes down to how you prefer to play, do you want them floaty and slow side to side arcs like an em, or faster with more downhill movement. And yes I have had to move the tilt ring screws to get them to adjust to that slope, but they can be made to do so easily. Flippers still do have plenty of power to get the ball back up top.

And nice on the Buck Rogers, that is high on my want list.

#2576 5 years ago

Who sells a system 80 power supply rebuild kit? Just like the BD kit #2, except in stock.....

I can't seem to find these pre-made anywhere else.

#2577 5 years ago

BorgDog, thanks for the help. I never noticed the tilt ring was adjustable until you mentioned it.

1 week later
#2578 5 years ago

So a few months back I built a SYS 80 Test Fixture using the instructions in This Old Pinball 5. Clay supplied a schematic for the fixture. I was able to screen grab it and build one up. It's been very useful.

Now I'd like to do the same for system 1. The power supplies are so wonky that being able to repair them on the bench would be great.

I came up with this. I added a power switch and the recommended fuses from Pinwiki. Is this overkill? Any sys 1 experts who can validate this design?Sys1Test Fixture (resized).pngSys1Test Fixture (resized).png

#2579 5 years ago

Selling 2 machines for less than i paid for them. Love the games but need the space!

Gottlieb Black Hole - Restored $4200
Gottlieb Volcano - Very clean $1400
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/73462
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/66960

#2580 5 years ago

Question.
I just acquired El dorado city of gold ..
My first gottlieb of this era .
Im getting absolutely nothing on any coils.
No flippers . no bumpers . no drop target resets .
Switches are functional for scoring ..
Also won't throw the ball in play ..
I can add credits . hit start . if the ball is in the drain the music will play as if the game is playing .
I can hit target's and it wall calculate the score .. Fuses are all good .. I've reseated the connectors .
The game has been idle for a long ass time ..
Any way I just started looking at it today . I do not have the manual .. So any leads ect would be cool.
Thanx ahead of time ...

#2581 5 years ago
Quoted from Milltown:

Question.
I just acquired El dorado city of gold ..
My first gottlieb of this era .
Im getting absolutely nothing on any coils.
No flippers . no bumpers . no drop target resets .
Switches are functional for scoring ..
Also won't throw the ball in play ..
I can add credits . hit start . if the ball is in the drain the music will play as if the game is playing .
I can hit target's and it wall calculate the score .. Fuses are all good .. I've reseated the connectors .
The game has been idle for a long ass time ..
Any way I just started looking at it today . I do not have the manual .. So any leads ect would be cool.
Thanx ahead of time ...

Do any of the coils have voltage?

#2582 5 years ago

Check the tilt and game over relay contacts.

1 week later
#2583 5 years ago

Hi everybody, I'm bring back a haunted house I've had for few years. Got it up and going but while doing some testing the ball went into the extra ball kick out and the game stopped working and the displays started alternating between these 2 sets of numbers.

20190119_074241 (resized).jpg20190119_074241 (resized).jpg20190119_074245 (resized).jpg20190119_074245 (resized).jpg
#2584 5 years ago

I had this on CL without too much luck. Sold my last machine on Pinside, so here's another one.

Machine - For Sale
Fully shopped/refurbished - “For sale is a 1984 Gottlieb "Jacks to Open". This is a System 80a machine that is in 100% working condition with all ground mods performed. Reduced from $900 on CL. The backglass...”
2019-01-19
Jarrettsville, MD
795
Archived after: 5 days
Viewed: 221 times
Status: Didn't sell to Pinsider

#2585 5 years ago

I moved Ice Fever to the other side of the room at one of my locations and now the displays won’t turn on. It’ll coin up and start the game and plays just fine. Didn’t have my tools, so looking for suggestions to check.

I’ll check for voltage, and hopefully the fuse filament didn’t snap in the ten seconds it took to move. Outside of that, maybe a harness or two needs to be reseated. Any typical ones to pull and reseat?

#2586 5 years ago

Hey, it's been a while since I've been here. Had my Solar Ride acting funny yesterday and had to turn it off and on a couple of times before it would completely turn on. I now turn it on but after the 5 second wait for it to finish turning on and showing high score etc. nothing. I have checked all the fuses. Slam switch is closed and I can find very little in the way of diagnostics for this. Battery was remotely located prior to me owning. Looking for any direction or diagnostics on this one. Had been working great up until yesterday. Any direction would be appreciated.

Thanks,

#2587 5 years ago

Just picked up a prototype Big House. Anyone else out there own one?

E4ED6DDB-443F-4503-B5C2-BC596B1DDCF1 (resized).jpegE4ED6DDB-443F-4503-B5C2-BC596B1DDCF1 (resized).jpeg
#2588 5 years ago
Quoted from Spg101:

Hey, it's been a while since I've been here. Had my Solar Ride acting funny yesterday and had to turn it off and on a couple of times before it would completely turn on. I now turn it on but after the 5 second wait for it to finish turning on and showing high score etc. nothing. I have checked all the fuses. Slam switch is closed and I can find very little in the way of diagnostics for this. Battery was remotely located prior to me owning. Looking for any direction or diagnostics on this one. Had been working great up until yesterday. Any direction would be appreciated.
Thanks,

Check the connection from the power supply to the MPU. And check to see if the power supply is actually supplying 5V and -12V to the MPU.

#2589 5 years ago
Quoted from LynnInDenver:

Check the connection from the power supply to the MPU. And check to see if the power supply is actually supplying 5V and -12V to the MPU.

Checked and on the first two pins I have about .2V nothing on the third (It's a ground) then .2V and what appeared to be 17V on the last pin. Power supply bad and if so where would I get one?

Thanks for the help too! This is my favorite go to game as it plays so quickly. I've spent 40 minutes in one game on my WOZ. HA!

#2590 5 years ago
Quoted from Turtlepower169:

Just picked up a prototype Big House. Anyone else out there own one?

That is cool. I've never seen one in person.

#2591 5 years ago
Quoted from Spg101:

Checked and on the first two pins I have about .2V nothing on the third (It's a ground) then .2V and what appeared to be 17V on the last pin. Power supply bad and if so where would I get one?
Thanks for the help too! This is my favorite go to game as it plays so quickly. I've spent 40 minutes in one game on my WOZ. HA!

Please use my check list to check your bottom board and power supply. It's based off of Clay's first time power up. If you make changes to it please make a copy first.

The checklist contains step by step instructions including how to set your dmm and where to put the leads. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1NV3NaXS6d696csiFSRcvi900dFwyPZSgFZfkDUwaZ4U/edit?usp=drivesdk

#2592 5 years ago

I'm working on getting a Spring Break working again. I've got everything work except for a single string of lamps that are controlled by solenoid 7 on the driver board. I have power on all the pins on the resistor board underneath and even power at the lamps themselves. However I don't have power on pin 1 of A3J6 where it should come back to the driver board. I can't figure out where this wire comes from though. I've poured over the wonderful schematics and diagrams and can't figure it out and I also tried to locate it by using the wire colors and looking around (white with either 2 orange stripes or 1 orange and 1 faded red). I don't see anything close to that color combo on any of the lamps, the resistor board or any fuses.

Anyone know where this wire comes from or where I should be looking if I don't have power on this pin?

#2593 5 years ago
Quoted from Spg101:

Checked and on the first two pins I have about .2V nothing on the third (It's a ground) then .2V and what appeared to be 17V on the last pin. Power supply bad and if so where would I get one?
Thanks for the help too! This is my favorite go to game as it plays so quickly. I've spent 40 minutes in one game on my WOZ. HA!

I know Marco carries power supplies for System 1 machines. Although it might also be helpful to go ahead and go through that startup checklist, including the various diagnostic things you can do just to make sure if it's the power supply or the voltages going to it.

#2594 5 years ago

This schematic is marked with the voltage at multiple points on the board. It's super helpful for determining where things go off the rails.
http://www.stevechannel.com/images/tech_tips/System1PowerSupplySchematic.jpg

#2595 5 years ago
Quoted from pinball_ric:

I'm working on getting a Spring Break working again. I've got everything work except for a single string of lamps that are controlled by solenoid 7 on the driver board. I have power on all the pins on the resistor board underneath and even power at the lamps themselves. However I don't have power on pin 1 of A3J6 where it should come back to the driver board. I can't figure out where this wire comes from though. I've poured over the wonderful schematics and diagrams and can't figure it out and I also tried to locate it by using the wire colors and looking around (white with either 2 orange stripes or 1 orange and 1 faded red). I don't see anything close to that color combo on any of the lamps, the resistor board or any fuses.
Anyone know where this wire comes from or where I should be looking if I don't have power on this pin?

I'm amazed but I actually was able to locate where the wire from pin 1 of A3J6 goes. It goes down to the C relay. Appears the coil for that relay is toast as I get power on one side but not the other. After figuring out where it went I was also able to locate the info I needed in the schematic. My first time trying to decipher gottlieb schematics. Not really drawn the same way as bally/williams were drawn or newer sterns.

#2596 5 years ago

I have started working on a Gottlieb Monte Carlo and hoping for some assistance. The machine wasn’t working when I got it and I’m going through the boards and doing the ground mods. Someone has done some work all ready. There is a Swemmer Daughter board installed, the PS had new header pins put in but still the old trim pot, that’s now been replaced. So I took off the sound board and flipped it over and I see this cap installed. I’m not sure if its factory and I haven’t seen anything talking about adding this to the board. Its on A2 leg 8 and jumps to a main line on the top of the board I think is ground. Looking at the schematics it says there is a .1uf cap going from pin 8 to ground. Can anyone confirm or deny this should be there and if its not supposed to be there any idea why it might be?
The other question I have is where to connect the ground mod to this board? It appears to just remove some green protective coating on the top near a board mount and solder the wire there?
Thanks in advance,
KIMG0721 (resized).jpgKIMG0721 (resized).jpg

I did find a pic of the bottom of one of these boards in post #1399 It seems it should be there. I can't believe all the time I spent looking it was here. So now just to confirm the ground mod.

#2597 5 years ago

I just picked up a Volcano does anyone have a copy of the user Manuel / Schematics for it.

image1 (3) (resized).jpegimage1 (3) (resized).jpeg
#2598 5 years ago

Hi, I’m working on a Gottlieb Monte Carlo. At the moment its not Booting, it wasn’t when I got it. I’m getting a constant Hi at U2 at pin 40 which seems to be what I should be getting. The clock circuit before that is working too. I’m getting no displays just GI lighting I have the solenoid fuse pulled because some of them were locking on also.If I connect the reset board I get the displays to mainly flash 0’s while that's happening U2 pin 40 is pulsing too. The piggyback board was replaced with a Swemmer board. I can’t find anything about that either, it has 4 leds that are all green. I have done the ground mods in bottom cabinet along with the boards. I recapped the Aux PS along with the reset board. Replace the 5v trim pot new pins and connectors on the PS. I’m getting 5.1 volts with nothing hooked up to the PS and 5.08 across C1 with the mpu plugged in. Can any one tell me what to look for next, some sort of system to troube shoot this? I have seen different posts that pretty much say check all the chips. The only thing I know is its not working and at leas 1 signal isn’t doing or getting to where it needs to be, I just don't know where to look.

#2599 5 years ago

I got a volcano the other day and the ball release coil was removed and new one was laying there. Can some one take a pic or tell me what wire goes on what side of the band. I have the digital version of the manual but is missing the drivers board and some of the other schematics.

#2600 5 years ago

Anyone know the part number that Buck Rogers uses for the nylon standoff's for attaching the boards to the backbox? I need to order a couple to replace some that broke.

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