Home for the Gottlieb SYS1-SYS80B guys, Yep it's a club :)

(Topic ID: 73213)

Home for the Gottlieb SYS1-SYS80B guys, Yep it's a club :)


By Gerry

5 years ago



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  • 352 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 hours ago by Troyster42
  • Topic is favorited by 169 Pinsiders

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There are 2596 posts in this topic. You are on page 51 of 52.
#2501 87 days ago

Start a 4 player game and all addition "free" credits will go on the credit counter. Of course, if you max it out, you can never win more games.

#2502 86 days ago

HEEEEELP!!! I'm so close to getting SPIRIT working!!

Got the power sorted out and got SWEMMER MPU and Driver boards installed. The games lights up, sound works but there is no score display coming up and it won't coin up.

Any suggestions?

Also, want to know if there is a manual or something to tell me what the LEDs mean on the boards.

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#2503 86 days ago
Quoted from PACMAN:

Also, want to know if there is a manual or something to tell me what the LEDs mean on the boards.

The guy who made those boards used to be on this site, have you tried to pm him?

#2505 84 days ago

The dragon looked in good shape, needs cleaning but man prettt nice for the age.

What is the black item in the place where the batteries would be? Is that a old sealed battery?

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#2506 84 days ago

Sent him a PM and email.

Any advice as to what might be causing the game not to coin up?

Quoted from RWH:

The guy who made those boards used to be on this site, have you tried to pm him?

#2507 83 days ago

I just blew a coil/transistor in my Cleopatra in attract mode. I have a Ni-Wumpf board already. Do I need ground mods on that or what? How could I have a locked on coil in attract mode otherwise?

#2508 83 days ago
Quoted from northvibe:

The dragon looked in good shape, needs cleaning but man prettt nice for the age.
What is the black item in the place where the batteries would be? Is that a old sealed battery?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nicad battery

#2509 83 days ago
Quoted from northvibe:

The dragon looked in good shape, needs cleaning but man prettt nice for the age.
What is the black item in the place where the batteries would be? Is that a old sealed battery?

That looks similar to the original battery.

REMOVE IT BEFORE IT STARTS TO LEAK.

#2510 83 days ago
Quoted from LynnInDenver:

That looks similar to the original battery.
REMOVE IT BEFORE IT STARTS TO LEAK.

Can’t stress this enough. Those suckers are timebombs!! Cut it out now!

#2511 83 days ago

Oh that is the original? Oh ya, once the game is purchased I’ll get that out. He wouldn’t go low enough for me but ordo is gonna snap it up, as hell have two sys1’s to test between

#2512 78 days ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

I just blew a coil/transistor in my Cleopatra in attract mode. I have a Ni-Wumpf board already. Do I need ground mods on that or what? How could I have a locked on coil in attract mode otherwise?

Nobody with Ni-Wumpf experience?

#2513 78 days ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Nobody with Ni-Wumpf experience?

Has the connector between the MPU and driver board been replaced and/or repinned?

#2514 78 days ago

I added the ground mod between the boards with my ni-wumpf. Ace at Ni-wumpf is super helpful.

#2515 77 days ago

Hi all. I'm looking for specific playfield measurements for Genie. I've heard a bunch of different numbers. 26.75" wide seems to be generally agreed upon but I've heard 46", 47", 47.75" for playfield length. Can anyone confirm any of these numbers?

#2516 77 days ago
Quoted from LynnInDenver:

Has the connector between the MPU and driver board been replaced and/or repinned?

It has not been /completely/ repinned. I've been thinking I need the replacement with the inline diodes. Would that help here?

Quoted from Insane:

I added the ground mod between the boards with my ni-wumpf. Ace at Ni-wumpf is super helpful.

Thanks, I'll get in touch with him for more details.

#2517 77 days ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

It has not been /completely/ repinned. I've been thinking I need the replacement with the inline diodes. Would that help here?

Thanks, I'll get in touch with him for more details.

Get with Ace before you get the one with the Diodes, for some reason I think he told me NOT to get that one, but I could be mis-remembering.

#2518 77 days ago

I recently joined the club with a Genie, and added a second game to my Gottlieb early SS lineup yesterday ...

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#2519 77 days ago
Quoted from gweempose:

I recently joined the club with a Genie, and added a second game to my Gottlieb early SS lineup yesterday ...

Hey I recognize that Genie

#2520 74 days ago

Hey guys. I love System 80 games. Love the challenge working on them. I have an Amazing Spider-Man and a Bad Girls. Both great games. Also had a Operation Thunder that I sold.

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#2521 74 days ago

The Spiderman is a good one, love the play and if tuned in it will be pretty fast for its time.

#2522 74 days ago
Quoted from Blackghost4:

Hey guys. I love System 80 games. Love the challenge working on them. I have an Amazing Spider-Man
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Kewl! A second Gottlieb Spider-Man in Ottawa! I got mine in about 2002, and would never part with it. Pm me if you ever want to compare notes or are debugging something. I’ve got a few extra ic’s and transistors from past fixes.

#2523 74 days ago

Ok, what am I missing here? Half my switches don’t work, including the test switch. It goes to A7, which is the panel in the bottom of the cab. From there it should go somewhere and end up in the head right? I just did a continuity test on all the connectors in the head and no beeps for the test switch. Since I can’t find a schematic where things come out of A7, things seem to just vanish. It looks to be A7J1-2 as the “500” color coding makes sense.

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#2524 74 days ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Ok, what am I missing here? Half my switches don’t work, including the test switch. It goes to A7, which is the panel in the bottom of the cab. From there it should go somewhere and end up in the head right? I just did a continuity test on all the connectors in the head and no beeps for the test switch. Since I can’t find a schematic where things come out of A7, things seem to just vanish. It looks to be A7J1-2 as the “500” color coding makes sense.[quoted image][quoted image]

Probably a page with just the harness wiring.... buncha lines with A7 stuff on one end and A6 stuff in the other. I’ll check my spider man schematics

#2525 74 days ago

Yep, found it hiding on an earlier page. Now to try and fix it

Edit: I found something interesting. None of the diodes on this section in the bottom are letting continuity through. I tested, reversed the probes, and tested again. It’ll buzz from the tab the the leg of the diode, but not through to the leg on the other side of the diode. Can I replace them with regular diodes that I have plenty of?

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#2526 74 days ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Yep, found it hiding on an earlier page. Now to try and fix it
Edit: I found something interesting. None of the diodes on this section in the bottom are letting continuity through. I tested, reversed the probes, and tested again. It’ll buzz from the tab the the leg of the diode, but not through to the leg on the other side of the diode. Can I replace them with regular diodes that I have plenty of?[quoted image]

While bad diodes often are problems. the ones used on those diode boards are super hardy. If one or a couple was bad I'd believe it. But all of them sounds like a reading issue.

#2527 74 days ago
Quoted from Cheddar:

While bad diodes often are problems. the ones used on those diode boards are super hardy. If one or a couple was bad I'd believe it. But all of them sounds like a reading issue.

I’ll test in diode mode, but I got zero continuity going either way and was point blank, so didn’t have 10 feet of wire dropping the signal at all.

#2528 73 days ago
Quoted from Cheddar:

While bad diodes often are problems. the ones used on those diode boards are super hardy. If one or a couple was bad I'd believe it. But all of them sounds like a reading issue.

Well they are all reading .222-.229 in diode test, so I have no idea.

#2529 73 days ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Well they are all reading .222-.229 in diode test, so I have no idea.

Sounds correct https://www.petervis.com/Radios/making-a-crystal-radio/germanium-diode-test.html

#2530 72 days ago

I repinned the connector with the test switch on it and it still isn’t working. Just to test the switch I get a weak buzz at idle (normally means weak connection) and I made sure the tabs weren’t touching. When I press the button I get full connection. Vert da ferk man?

#2531 71 days ago

If you are just testing the button you need to clip wires from one side of it.

If it is still wired up your meter may be pushing current through the components that the wires are connected to which may give you the weak buzz when the button isn't pressed.

#2532 71 days ago
Quoted from Insane:

Get with Ace before you get the one with the Diodes, for some reason I think he told me NOT to get that one, but I could be mis-remembering.

You're right. The board has built in protection, so no diodes in the connector cable. Thanks for mentioning!

#2533 67 days ago

I just repinned all of A1J6. The playfield switches that weren’t working are still not working. The test button isn’t working either, but that’s not on J6. Anyway, I got the switch matrix out to see if there was a pattern. There is. Rows 1 and 2 (strobe 0 and 1) are completely failing. I have a new Rottendog MPU in, so it shouldn’t be an MPU matrix issue. What else might I be missing?

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#2534 67 days ago

Do you get continuity on those lines between the MPU switch matrix connector and the diode strip? It sounds like it might be more of a harness issue.

#2535 67 days ago

Just picked up these nifty new keychains ...

Genie (resized).jpgBlack Hole (resized).jpg
#2536 67 days ago
Quoted from LynnInDenver:

Do you get continuity on those lines between the MPU switch matrix connector and the diode strip? It sounds like it might be more of a harness issue.

Wow, I had no idea those were even there. I measured the left side and right side, both layers. All of them measured in the .230 ballpark, except for two. On the left side set, the left diode on the top and bottom board measured .000. Colors are black/purple/purple and what looks like a faded brown/orange/orange. That relates to sw 16 on row 2, and sw 6 on row 2. Would one diode on each row being out cause the whole row to fail? If so, I’ll have to swap those out and give it a go. I’m pretty excited to have a new path to follow trying to fix this game. Thanks.

#2537 67 days ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Wow, I had no idea those were even there. I measured the left side and right side, both layers. All of them measured in the .230 ballpark, except for two. On the left side set, the left diode on the top and bottom board measured .000. Colors are black/purple/purple and what looks like a faded brown/orange/orange. That relates to sw 16 on row 2, and sw 6 on row 2. Would one diode on each row being out cause the whole row to fail? If so, I’ll have to swap those out and give it a go. I’m pretty excited to have a new path to follow trying to fix this game. Thanks.

It might. If the diode has failed as a short, it can cause strange behavior, since the diodes are meant to block current flowing in one direction, and failing short means they're no longer blocking it from the other direction. You'd be getting phantom switch presses, or it will act like a switch is locked on.

Also, make sure you don't actually have a switch stuck closed on the playfield. Go through all the switches in the affected rows first, then check the rest. It's quick enough to do with a multimeter in continuity mode. The 10 point switches might be a bit trickier, since all those switches are literally in a daisy chain.

Do also make sure you have continuity between those diodes and the MPU via the harness.

#2538 66 days ago
Quoted from LynnInDenver:

It might. If the diode has failed as a short, it can cause strange behavior, since the diodes are meant to block current flowing in one direction, and failing short means they're no longer blocking it from the other direction. You'd be getting phantom switch presses, or it will act like a switch is locked on.
Also, make sure you don't actually have a switch stuck closed on the playfield. Go through all the switches in the affected rows first, then check the rest. It's quick enough to do with a multimeter in continuity mode. The 10 point switches might be a bit trickier, since all those switches are literally in a daisy chain.
Do also make sure you have continuity between those diodes and the MPU via the harness.

Boom! Swapped out those two diodes and all (most) of the switches work. The 10 point switches still weren’t working, but I found one more hiding where I hadn’t previously looked. It was closed. Opened it up and touched another and it worked.

And guess what? The test button works now too. Time to move it inside and level it and figure out how steep I have to make it for it to be a little more dangerous.

#2539 66 days ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Boom! Swapped out those two diodes and all (most) of the switches work. The 10 point switches still weren’t working, but I found one more hiding where I hadn’t previously looked. It was closed. Opened it up and touched another and it worked.
And guess what? The test button works now too. Time to move it inside and level it and figure out how steep I have to make it for it to be a little more dangerous.

N/M apparently this uses 27" legs all around.

#2540 66 days ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Boom! Swapped out those two diodes and all (most) of the switches work.

Great glad you've got it going!

#2541 66 days ago

Archived after 9 days
901 views
Sold elsewhere
Machine - For Sale
GenieArchived
Fully shopped/refurbished “Genie nice overall condition new playfield glass (thanks to Ivan). New rubbers, new PI-1 mpu, new mpu to driver board connector cable,. Plastics all nice, play field shows ball wea...”
2019-01-12
Morrisville, PA
1,650 (OBO)

have a Genie listed for sale

#2542 66 days ago

Anyone have experienced with the Gold Wings topper? The outer three lights work, the strobing lights that flash along the carrier at takeoff do not. I have the manual on order but where should I look inside the machine? I followed the wires down to the bottom of the play field but then they are bundled in with a lot of other wires and I have trouble figuring where they go.

#2543 66 days ago

A quick photo of the machine just because I love how it is coming together, lol.

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#2544 62 days ago

If a sys1 has a small transformer that is bad. Is there a substitute or power supply that works, or is this something where you HAVE to find the original to make it work?

#2545 62 days ago
Quoted from northvibe:

If a sys1 has a small transformer that is bad. Is there a substitute or power supply that works, or is this something where you HAVE to find the original to make it work?

Pinwiki has a workaround http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_1#Workaround_for_Dead_Small_Transformer

#2546 61 days ago

I believe the words they use are "potential (untested) workaround"

I have a dead Genie with a bad small transformer. My issue is weird, because I still have the 69 vac, but the 11 and 14 have issues. I'm trying to decide if I want to try and feed those with other transformers, replace everything with $700 worth of boards (Boston displays and PI-1 X4), or build some sort of OPP custom game.

Luckily, I enjoy looking at the game, so no rush

#2547 61 days ago

Genie is a beautiful machine, all the D. Gottliebs were great.

#2548 61 days ago
Quoted from zimjoe:

I believe the words they use are "potential (untested) workaround"
I have a dead Genie with a bad small transformer. My issue is weird, because I still have the 69 vac, but the 11 and 14 have issues. I'm trying to decide if I want to try and feed those with other transformers, replace everything with $700 worth of boards (Boston displays and PI-1 X4), or build some sort of OPP custom game.
Luckily, I enjoy looking at the game, so no rush

I think the pascal is going to need more voltages? I think the direct cpu replacements, niwumf and rottendog (iirc) are the two that only need 5/12v. I think we need a few of us to try this

#2549 59 days ago

Anyone happen to have this plastic for a 1979 Count-Down? It goes over the upper left drop targets. Just starting on my first System 1 adventure and this plastic was broken. In the mean time I fixed the driver board (two bad transistors), am cleaning up some battery damage on the MPU, and have a lot of connectors to repin.

If you can help with the plastic that would be a great start.

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#2550 58 days ago

I've seen some of the old System 1 and 80 displays where some are tinned and other just plain copper. Was that also the way some of the MPU and driver boards came? I am cleaning up a system 1 board now and most of the fingers are down to copper. I'm trying to determine if that is correct and they should be left as clean copper or if I should tin all the edge card contacts again. I've had good results in cases that I've done in the past by putting fresh solder on them and removing the excess by sliding the solder wick across with the iron to leave just a thin coating.

What is everyone else doing? The board is cleaning up better than I thought it would and I just may be able to save it.

Robert

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