Home for the Gottlieb SYS1-SYS80B guys, Yep it's a club :)

(Topic ID: 73213)

Home for the Gottlieb SYS1-SYS80B guys, Yep it's a club :)


By Gerry

5 years ago



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There are 2582 posts in this topic. You are on page 48 of 52.
#2351 4 months ago

If anyone needs a MPU I’ve got this one up for sale. Perfect for someone who’s more familiar with this board set. Open to offers

Archived after 70 days
107 views
Not sold
Parts - For Sale
Used, good condition “I ordered a new MPU for my spiderman not realizing the original boots up and plays. It clean(no battery damage), but does have issues with the display digits/segments not all showi...”
2018-08-28
Rogersville, MO
80 (OBO)

#2352 4 months ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Did yours clear up after you replaced Z14? Mine got a little better after doing that, but not fully fixed.
I got the 7400 from a surprisingly awesome electronics store in town. It's called Elliott Electronics. Not the best prices ever, but if I want to work on something that day, it's worth the trip. https://www.elliottelectronicsupply.com/

Z12 was also very warm, so I replaced that just now. The displays used to come on and stay on, but the game would not respond to buttons. Now it clicks to turn on the displays and they go off right away.

#2353 4 months ago

Spent the evening working on Gold Wings. Fixed the ball loading issue, kicker issue, did some touch ups to the playfield, rebuilt all pop bumpers, installed a new loop and finished switching the bulbs to led. I don’t care what anyone says, we have been having a lot of fun playing it, 141 plays in three weeks isn’t bad. Now that the loop works it will see plenty more action.

65EFFC1D-2426-45F0-BA08-611F214FDE3E (resized).jpeg7BA2008E-6177-4EE3-A2F8-BBB0B8B9D9FE (resized).jpeg
#2354 4 months ago

I need to ad lights to this backbox. Built it from a countdown bakbox..need more lights behind Charlies Angels. Can I just hijack the silver wire and add bulbs?
Or is there somthing in this game that says you cant have more than certain gi lamps?

20180831_161900 (resized).jpg
#2355 4 months ago
Quoted from Andreas:

I need to ad lights to this backbox. Built it from a countdown bakbox..need more lights behind Charlies Angels. Can I just hijack the silver wire and add bulbs?
Or is there somthing in this game that says you cant have more than certain gi lamps?
[quoted image]

i would suggest the Matrix lighting system from comet LED's. very easy and simple

#2356 4 months ago

Count the light bulbs.
Each draws 0.25A current.
So four of them adds up to 1A.
Look at the GI fuse and that's your limit.

Most of the time they are up to the limit in number of lamps.
Led's may be the only way to add more.

Peter

#2357 4 months ago

or just rearrange the ones that are there to match a CA instead of Count-Down

#2358 4 months ago
Quoted from BorgDog:

or just rearrange the ones that are there to match a CA instead of Count-Down

yeah will move 1 or 2 and move all gameover and other specific gamelamps

#2359 4 months ago
Quoted from Andreas:

I need to ad lights to this backbox. Built it from a countdown bakbox..need more lights behind Charlies Angels. Can I just hijack the silver wire and add bulbs?
Or is there somthing in this game that says you cant have more than certain gi lamps?
[quoted image]

Simply use #47 bulbs instead of # 44 bulbs and add the bulbs you want, current draw only 125 mA versus 250 mA

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bulbs-44-vs-47

#2360 4 months ago

Awsome thanks

#2361 4 months ago

I have displayes that are missing digets..1 on one and 3 on another..I have tried them in other games so guess its the ic's udn6118a
Going to the states soon but live in europe so any tips on where to get them?

#2362 4 months ago
Quoted from Andreas:

I have displayes that are missing digets..1 on one and 3 on another..I have tried them in other games so guess its the ic's udn6118a
Going to the states soon but live in europe so any tips on where to get them?

3 pieces 10 EUR, good price:

ebay.com link » Udn6118a Integrierter Kreis Dip 18 Pack Von 3 Stueck

#2363 4 months ago
Quoted from german-pinball:

3 pieces 10 EUR, good price:
ebay.com link » Udn6118a Integrierter Kreis Dip 18 Pack Von 3 Stueck

Thanx..bought them all..hope its not counterfits

#2364 4 months ago

Going to do the ground mods tonight on Circus and if that doesn't get it to boot all the way to attract mode I'm all out of ideas.

#2365 4 months ago
Quoted from Andreas:

I have displayes that are missing digets..1 on one and 3 on another..I have tried them in other games so guess its the ic's udn6118a
Going to the states soon but live in europe so any tips on where to get them?

I had a digit out on a display and fixed it by resoldering connections and cleaning the edge connector with a fiberglass pen and pin eraser. Worth looking at before swapping chips.

#2366 4 months ago

Hey guys I'm looking for a quick scan 80 if someone has one to sell

Archived after 81 days
158 views
Unknown reason:
Other - Wanted
Wanted! “Anybody have one of these they'd be willing to sell? Thanks”
2018-09-07
Lodi, CA
Wanted

#2367 4 months ago

Added ground mods, it boots, beeps, then goes back to bed. Any guesses?

#2368 4 months ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Added ground mods, it boots, beeps, then goes back to bed. Any guesses?

I found this bit of info about Haunted House, but maybe it's the same for Circus. That beep isn't normal.

> indicates an operation by the user (you)
# indicates an operation by the sound board

SOUND BOARD CHECKS FOR GOTTLIEB HAUNTED HOUSE:

>Push test button on sound board
#Board will beep 1 tone if the RAM is bad.
#Board will beep 2 tones if sound ROM1 is bad.
#Board will beep 3 tones if sound ROM2 is bad.
#Board will beep 5 tones after a pause if everything so far is OK (repeats until you do something)
>Start sound trigger test. The book asks you to ground the pins on the P1 connector, but I find it much easier to ground the pins on the U16 chip. Take a metal pick tool and attach a jumper from it to ground. Use this to poke the pins of the chip. Note that pin #14 has +5 volts on it!
>ground pin #1 of U16
#Board should beep 5 tones
>ground pin #3 of U16
#Board should beep 5 tones
>ground pin #5 of U16
#Board should beep 5 tones
>ground pin #9 of U16
#Board should beep 5 tones
>ground pin #11 of U16
#Board should beep 5 tones
>ground pin #13 of U16
#Board should beep 5 tones
>Push test button
#Board should beep one long tone
>Push test button
#board should stop beeping. Test is over.
Take notes on what works or does not work. Go on to the sound board repair page soon to come.

The full thread is actually diagnosing a Gold Wings, but someone refers to that diagnosis for Haunted House.
https://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=92597

#2369 4 months ago
Quoted from Agent_Hero:

I found this bit of info about Haunted House, but maybe it's the same for Circus. That beep isn't normal.
> indicates an operation by the user (you)
# indicates an operation by the sound board
SOUND BOARD CHECKS FOR GOTTLIEB HAUNTED HOUSE:
>Push test button on sound board
#Board will beep 1 tone if the RAM is bad.
#Board will beep 2 tones if sound ROM1 is bad.
#Board will beep 3 tones if sound ROM2 is bad.
#Board will beep 5 tones after a pause if everything so far is OK (repeats until you do something)
>Start sound trigger test. The book asks you to ground the pins on the P1 connector, but I find it much easier to ground the pins on the U16 chip. Take a metal pick tool and attach a jumper from it to ground. Use this to poke the pins of the chip. Note that pin #14 has +5 volts on it!
>ground pin #1 of U16
#Board should beep 5 tones
>ground pin #3 of U16
#Board should beep 5 tones
>ground pin #5 of U16
#Board should beep 5 tones
>ground pin #9 of U16
#Board should beep 5 tones
>ground pin #11 of U16
#Board should beep 5 tones
>ground pin #13 of U16
#Board should beep 5 tones
>Push test button
#Board should beep one long tone
>Push test button
#board should stop beeping. Test is over.
Take notes on what works or does not work. Go on to the sound board repair page soon to come.
The full thread is actually diagnosing a Gold Wings, but someone refers to that diagnosis for Haunted House.
https://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=92597

Hmm, very interesting. I will manually ground the pins, but pressing the test button didn’t do anything. The speaker made a slight popping sound like when you have a walker talkie and press the talk button.

#2370 4 months ago

You can test your sound board by pressing the black button on the sound board itself, it will play some attract sounds if all is well. The two dip switches there can affect sound as well.

#2371 4 months ago
Quoted from RWH:

You can test your sound board by pressing the black button on the sound board itself, it will play some attract sounds if all is well. The two dip switches there can affect sound as well.

Here is what mine does.

#2372 4 months ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

I had a digit out on a display and fixed it by resoldering connections and cleaning the edge connector with a fiberglass pen and pin eraser. Worth looking at before swapping chips.

Thanx Wil try

#2373 4 months ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Here is what mine does.

Do you have another system80 machine? If so you can swap boards and see if its a board problem, switch roms as well when you do it. Big Daddy enterprises has pascal plug and play for circus at $124 and change. I have two one for circus and one for star race, love 'em. Keep my original boards as backup or if I ever sold.

#2374 4 months ago
Quoted from RWH:

Do you have another system80 machine? If so you can swap boards and see if its a board problem, switch roms as well when you do it. Big Daddy enterprises has pascal plug and play for circus at $124 and change. I have two one for circus and one for star race, love 'em. Keep my original boards as backup or if I ever sold.

I don’t have another here. I have an Ice Fever on route, but that one isn’t set to come home for rotation for a while.

#2375 4 months ago

Picked up a new project tonight that has been on my holy grail list for years! I have a hard time finding these for sale..

7F28C272-014D-426C-A93A-1FB4663CB4C7 (resized).jpeg

#2376 4 months ago

Vitrigraph playfield?

#2377 4 months ago
Quoted from Alan_L:

Vitrigraph playfield?

No I wish it were!

#2378 4 months ago
Quoted from Antennaejim:

Picked up a new project tonight that has been on my holy grail list for years! I have a hard time finding these for sale..
[quoted image]

Looks like it’s time to get rid of that washer and dryer to make room for pins!!

#2379 4 months ago

Hi I have seen some posts about displays and thought I would ask this. I thought I read in guides that a bad display could mess up your MPU board. So is there a safe way to test a questionable display? I picked 2 up at a show and they appear ok, 2 dots are still black and filament looks to be not broken in both.
Thanks in advance.

#2380 4 months ago

I had a thought while driving in to work today. If there is an issue with my (Circus) sound board, and I unhook it, will the game boot up? I'd like to know if that isolates the issue. I'd also like to just bat the ball around knowing that there is an issue on the board that I can investigate further.

#2381 4 months ago
Quoted from desertT1:

I had a thought while driving in to work today. If there is an issue with my (Circus) sound board, and I unhook it, will the game boot up? I'd like to know if that isolates the issue. I'd also like to just bat the ball around knowing that there is an issue on the board that I can investigate further.

Yes, the sound board is a separate MPU that can function independently

#2382 4 months ago
Quoted from Cheddar:

Yes, the sound board is a separate MPU that can function independently

Cool! I'll give that a try today and turn it on with fingers crossed.

#2383 4 months ago

Hey all, not sure if this is the right place to ask this but hopefully.

I've got an odd issue on my Haunted House where it works 100% except that when you first turn it on and start a game, it will eject the ball as expected, but the flippers and most all of the other solenoids do not work. Then after about a minute there is a 'click' toward the lower back half of the playfield and everything works. I also noticed that when this happens the 'ball in play' light does not light until the click and everything else works either. Subsequent games don't have an issue, and if I power it down and back up, it doesn't wait as long usually - but still like a 10 second delay. The click I hear seems to be between the upper and main playfield and I can't tell where exactly it is and I didn't see anything there.

During attract mode, it flips between upper and lower normally and the click accompanies this change.

My thought here is there is a relay somewhere under the PF that controls turning on the solenoids and it gets 'stuck' off during game start? Anyone know if this is correct and where it is located? Or am I way off on this?

EDIT: I think it was the Q relay getting stuck. It seemed hard to move. I wiggled it around a bit and it seems to be working better now. If it starts hanging up again I'll get a new one.

#2384 4 months ago
Quoted from Cheddar:

Yes, the sound board is a separate MPU that can function independently

No dice. Displays did the same thing where they went on for just a second after the 5-second timer and instantly went off. Seems like this is pointing back to the MPU as the issue.

#2385 4 months ago
Quoted from desertT1:

No dice. Displays did the same thing where they went on for just a second after the 5-second timer and instantly went off. Seems like this is pointing back to the MPU as the issue.

Sorry I answered the wrong question. While I don't know if the sound board and can prevent the mpu from booting I do know the mpu can boot without it (if it can boot)

#2386 4 months ago
Quoted from Cheddar:

Sorry I answered the wrong question. While I don't know if the sound board and can prevent the mpu from booting I do know the mpu can boot without it (if it can boot)

No worries. Seems like I’m in need of some sort of flow chart of areas to check for voltage or logic.

#2387 4 months ago
Quoted from desertT1:

No worries. Seems like I’m in need of some sort of flow chart of areas to check for voltage or logic.

Clays This old Pinball 5 is great

This is something I am learning myself

#2388 4 months ago
Quoted from desertT1:

No worries. Seems like I’m in need of some sort of flow chart of areas to check for voltage or logic.

Just curious, did this game ever work since you have had it? I see you have several pins in your collection but systems 80s are very unique. These things are not all that hard to work on once you can establish a baseline. First thing I do is replace the filter caps if they haven’t been before. Then I look at every pin in every edge connector. The ground mods aren’t needed if your pins are all good. If fact, doing grounds mods before checking the pins might just complicate things. People might disagree with me but it is the truth. These games were designed to gound through the wire harness and they will if the pins are in good shape. You can always do the ground mods after you get it sorted out but I would not recommend that as a first step. I assume your power supply checks out so now that just leaves 3 possible problems (the slam switches, MPU and Driver board). The slam switches are easy to short out and test. Now that leaves you with just 2 possibilities. At this point I would just buy another set of boards for testing. You can always resell them after you isolate your problem or just keep them as spares. If you are like me, you are going nuts about now. Just buy the replacement boards and save yourself any further aggravation.

#2389 4 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Just curious, did this game ever work since you have had it? I see you have several pins in your collection but systems 80s are very unique. These things are not all that hard to work on once you can establish a baseline. First thing I do is replace the filter caps if they haven’t been before. Then I look at every pin in every edge connector. The ground mods aren’t needed if your pins are all good. If fact, doing grounds mods before checking the pins might just complicate things. People might disagree with me but it is the truth. These games were designed to gound through the wire harness and they will if the pins are in good shape. You can always do the ground mods after you get it sorted out but I would not recommend that as a first step. I assume your power supply checks out so now that just leaves 3 possible problems (the slam switches, MPU and Driver board). The slam switches are easy to short out and test. Now that leaves you with just 2 possibilities. At this point I would just buy another set of boards for testing. You can always resell them after you isolate your problem or just keep them as spares. If you are like me, you are going nuts about now. Just buy the replacement boards and save yourself any further aggravation.

It worked when my friend got it home. He was doing something by the slings (with it on) touched something and then the game went crazy. I’m assuming he connected high voltage to switch inputs because it fried z12 and z14, I think. I have replaced those two with progress each time.

#2390 4 months ago

Also, please see posts 2367 and 2371 for videos of the current state of the game.

#2391 4 months ago
Quoted from desertT1:

It worked when my friend got it home. He was doing something by the slings (with it on) touched something and then the game went crazy. I’m assuming he connected high voltage to switch inputs because it fried z12 and z14, I think. I have replaced those two with progress each time.

So has the game been moved from your friends house to yours? If so, was the head removed? I just want to make sure your pins are ok before you do any other troubleshooting? Edge connector pins are awful. If your pins are all shinny and unbroken you should be ok there. If they have issues they need to be addressed before moving foward. You may have already fixed your problem but can't see the result because a bad pin. Are you willing to buy a replacement board set? That will make things much easier for you. If your pins are good the new board set will get Circus up and running again. Most of us system 80 guys have an extra set sitting around for just that reason.

#2392 4 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

So has the game been moved from your friends house to yours? If so, was the head removed? I just want to make sure your pins are ok before you do any other troubleshooting? Edge connector pins are awful. If your pins are all shinny and unbroken you should be ok there. If they have issues they need to be addressed before moving foward. You may have already fixed your problem but can't see the result because a bad pin. Are you willing to buy a replacement board set? That will make things much easier for you. If your pins are good the new board set will get Circus up and running again. Most of us system 80 guys have an extra set sitting around for just that reason.

I have cleaned all contact areas with eraser and that was a noticeable change. The head was removed to move it, but it never was repaired at his house, so no change in what it was doing there compared to what it is doing now. Slam tilt has been bypassed, but connectors have not been done yet.

#2393 4 months ago
Quoted from desertT1:

I have cleaned all contact areas with eraser and that was a noticeable change. The head was removed to move it, but it never was repaired at his house, so no change in what it was doing there compared to what it is doing now. Slam tilt has been bypassed, but connectors have not been done yet.

If the pins are original they are likely shot. You don't have to replace everything but everything south of where the battery is / was needs addressed. To make things more fun the pins very obsolete. Do you have a source for these?

#2394 4 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

If the pins are original they are likely shot. You don't have to replace everything but everything south of where the battery is / was needs addressed. To make things more fun the pins very obsolete. Do you have a source for these?

Not sure I follow what “south of the battery” means.

Looking at this sequence it’s weird because my displays come on for a short time, but the coin coin accept relay doesn’t power up.

92727195-0321-4854-8F8D-E42EBAA2FAC2 (resized).png
#2395 4 months ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Not sure I follow what “south of the battery” means.
Looking at this sequence it’s weird because my displays come on for a short time, but the coin coin accept relay doesn’t power up.[quoted image]

Please see photo. These are the connectors you should be checking. These need to be a 100% good before you can proceed with any troubleshooting.

system 80 (resized).jpg
#2396 4 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Please see photo. These are the connectors you should be checking. These need to be a 100% good before you can proceed with any troubleshooting.
[quoted image]

Sounds good, thanks.

#2397 4 months ago

3 questions on Gottlieb dragon:

1. Is the varytsrget suppose to stay in place after hitting it like on buck rogers or go back after scoring the points. When I got this game I adjusted them so that the varitarget resets directly after it has given me the points. Today I stsrted to think that maybe they are suppose to stay in place?

2. I looked at scorecard and in manual, Cant really figure out what lights up the extra ball. Suddenly I have extraball and special alternating and I dont know how I did it. Manual and scorecarfs does not mention anything about how to light extraball.

3. Can someone take a pic on the cables that goes to left bumpers lampholder. Thos one was missing a lampholder and the cabels are loose under playfield.

Cheers and thanks

20180912_194655 (resized).jpg
#2398 4 months ago

2. See on the bonus at 6000 and 8000 where it says lites left target and lites right target? those are what light the extra ball lights (by the targets). The 7000 is what does the special as it says.

1. Yes, pretty sure it is supposed to reset the vari after scoring.

#2399 4 months ago
Quoted from BorgDog:

2. See on the bonus at 6000 and 8000 where it says lites left target and lites right target? those are what light the extra ball lights (by the targets). The 7000 is what does the special as it says.
1. Yes, pretty sure it is supposed to reset the vari after scoring.

2. Yeah I got confused here. Buck Rogers varitarget stays in place but this makes more sence if it resets after you hit it and not only after ball drainging. Buggerd..heard diffrent from 4 guys now

#2400 4 months ago
Quoted from BorgDog:

2. See on the bonus at 6000 and 8000 where it says lites left target and lites right target? those are what light the extra ball lights (by the targets). The 7000 is what does the special as it says.
1. Yes, pretty sure it is supposed to reset the vari after scoring.

Hahahaha how did I miss that...It was just in front of my eyes...embarrasing

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