My SS Cleopatra left flipper EOS has broken and I do not see a replacement part listed at Marco or others.
Marco has a rebuild kit that is back ordered and it has a EOS listed - MA-656 left flipper single EOS assembly, but its not listed separately.
Is there a compatible EOS or does someone know of a source ?

Thanks,

As it is a Gottlieb, I would think Steve at The Pinball Resource would be your best bet.

Do we speak about this switch??

Gottlieb Sys1 Eos (resized).jpg

That is the one.
I am still looking around for one.

OK, then I would go with this one from marco (Gottlieb part-number B-16363):

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/B-16363

A bit expensive by Marcospec, here in germany, price is only 6,00 EUR.

Unfortunately, I have have lost my GTB 1982 Parts Catalog, there part number is shown, when I remember correctly.

That is the Gottlieb PN too.

Pinball Resource lists them for $4.10USD. There is a + on the end of the PN.

http://www.pbresource.com/KT-GFLIP03M.html

Pinball Wizard has kits and EOS

I promise I looked at these sites, I had the wrong part number and just got pointed in the wrong direction.
Thanks for finding this info.

I have the same machine Dragon with the same hack a switch add .Press the button adds a game then takes the game ,same problem will not holding high score and wont allow more than one credit .Checked the ram at pin 22 has power of 3.6 v .So is this just a ram with garbage in it .

I reset high score in bookkeeping and it worked until I restarted the game. then the problem came back.

I have done all of that and still has the problem will change the 5101 chip c if that makes a differences.

cool let me know

I just picked up a Gold Wings and, after u plugging the siren, I have a few small issues. I ordered the manual and rubber kit from PBR but until it arrives:

1) How many balls should be in this machine? It’s has two ball multiball but there were four balls in the machine (along with a stack of magnets!) but it seems like it should only have two.

2) anyone with the manual, what are switches 46 and 56? I get a message they are closed when running the test mode.

3) How are settings saved in this machine? I lose all scores and settings when I power off the machine. I am not that familiar with non-EM machines so be gentle!

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Nice! Cool game, I don’t have a Gold Wings but I think I can help on a couple of your questions.

2) According to this site (https://www.pinitech.com/switch_database.php?name=Gottlieb_Gold_Wings), those appear to be your trough switches.

3) Unless it’s been upgraded to NVRAM, scores are saved in battery-backed RAM. It sounds like the battery could be dead. If you haven’t already, I would check out the MPU to see if you still have the original battery on the board and if so, I would remove it ASAP. If you’re lucky, perhaps someone upgraded to a lithium coin cell or remote battery and that battery has just died.

2 balls is correct # for Gold Wings

That switch database is pure gold! Now I know what to look for, thanks!

Looks like the original battery was replaced in 2000. What’s the easiest way to get battery saves back into the machine?

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I put on a memory cap that I get from Ed at GPE (Great Plains Electronics)

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Nvram is the best replacement and worth every penny $15 for a chip that lasts forever

I need to replace the Bolts that connect the head to the cabinet on both my system 1 and system 80. I need to know the bolt size and length. can someone please help me out.

As others have said, there are some different options... at least 5 in fact according to pinwiki, each with their own advantages and drawbacks: http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#Battery_Leakage_and_Corrosion.

NVRAM is also a great option as it gets rid of the batteries altogether but the 5101 RAM chip is not in a socket and would need to be desoldered from the board which can have its own challenges.

Have a snafu with the display on a TX-Sector. Notice the first high score... thinking it might be a ram issue???

Corrupt data. Do a high score clear or restore factory defaults.

Ok, my Gold Wings is coming along, fixed the switch issues and the battery issue. Whew. Here are the last issues I have discovered:

1) Occasionally the game will not track balls correctly. Every couple of games if I activate multi-ball the game will end the "turn" when the first ball drains; the flippers go dead while the bonus point are awarded and the second ball drains as well. Sometimes I will lock a ball in the kickout hole and then play the next ball fine. When that ball drains it will sit there in the drain and not kick to the through. I have checked the switch in the kickout hole and it seems to be good. I will play three or four games fine and then have an issue. Argh.

2) What's the story with the loop in the upper left corner. The one is my machine is pretty beat up, it looks like its missing the side screw tabs so it shifts and becomes unusable. I am going to order a pair of replacement sides from PBR, any tricks to assembly to get it working 100%?

3) Has anyone made reproductions of the aircraft carrier plastic? Yikes, is mine beat up!

For System 80: 1 1/2” length, 3/8 x 16 thread

I had gold wings for about 10 years. It is an awesome game.

When I first got mine the loop was difficult to have the ball go as intended. It simply did not track well over the loop.
IIRC I felt that the pieces should touch each other but in the end found that the ball needed a slot to go around in and guide it. So, the individual pieces DID NOT touch each other. From there it was subtle adjustments on the anchor screws.

There is a lot of trial and error.
In the end it was a difficult shot to get. If you got it just right it went all the way around and out the gate.

I upped the coil strength to make it more attainable.
It was working well prior to the stronger coil but was a difficult shot. We enjoyed it more being able to make the shot.

Ah! The loop as it now is missing the anchor screws so the previous owner soldered parts of it together so the middle screws hold all three pieces. I will desolder the loop when the new sides arrive. Did you replace the coil or just remove some of the wire?

Thanks for the help! So far I am enjoying the game very much, it is very unique and the multi-ball is hard when you have to track four flippers!

Check the switch matrix, starting with the plugs at the MPU followed by the logic chips controlling it. It sounds almost like it's getting a combination of not seeing signals when switches are hit (not seeing the ball in the drain), and seeing phantom switch hits (first ball drains, and it thinks the first ball of multiball has already drained and is in the trough).

Just replaced the Z14 7400 IC and now I have displays, but coins and test buttons do nothing so I don’t think it’s fully booted. Also, that’s credit display looks a bit unhappy. The main displays probably have a smaller issue as well.

As long as all the pieces have all their mounting tabs the biggest problem with the loop is the corkscrew piece is screwed to the top of the pf. The ball hits the edge and bounces around in the loop. On my cc'd nos pf I carefully chiseled the wood from the pf to let the end of the corkscrew sit flush with the surface of the pf. The loop is easy to get now and very smooth. I don't like the idea of a stronger coil on that flipper. That area gets pretty beat up as is with everything being so close.
With the loop set up this way I set my EOS switch to open fairly early to weaken the flipper and keep from beating everything up. As long as I have good aim (which I usually don't lol) the loop is very easy and the ball will go all the way to the top rollovers. Mike

Problem solved .Started with doing the ground mods to the mpu and driver board the power board was already done ,then i took the old 5101 chip out and noticed on the board that where pins 18 & 19 go that they are connected together on the same trace on the top of the board , so after putting in the new chip i tested all the traces to the leg of the chip the only trace that was not working was 18 , pin 18 & 19 are both connected to ground so i add a splash of solder across the two pins at the back of the board plugged it in went into book keeping mode cleared 1-10 Added new scores in 7,8 & 9 for free games and added a high score in 10 and game was working again with high scores and can add more than 1 game , so turning machine on and off now keeps high score no problems all fixed . I would say to anyone that has this problem first 2 things to do is ground mods on all boards and check pin 18 make sure there is ground there.

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...is that the slam switch thing? Does it do the five second then click and cycle the GI? If it doesn't, you might need to do the slam switch bypass; I believe it's like the earlier System 1, where the slam switch is set up as "normally closed", which makes it much more fragile and causes it to "fail safe", basically the switch (or harness) failing prevents the machine from operating by making it think it's been slammed. It won't coin, won't start, and the displays will "roll".

https://www.flippers.com/gott-system80.html

It does do the 5-second click, but I was going to do the bypass anyway. Went to check and it had already been done. Thanks for the link though. Good info in there.

There are two coin switches. One set of wires had been cut to add a credit button outside of the game. That had later been disconnected, but the wires never fixed. So there are wires sitting there. Touching them and holding together makes a “boop” sound of sorts and seemed to add credits, but as that display is flickering it is hard to tell. The other side seems to do nothing right now, but I just thought that maybe the chain to that switch is broken from the cut wires.

Test button still does nothing. Is there a signal of some sort when the dip switches are in a bad configuration? I haven’t checked those against factory yet as a starting point.

Getting the credit display to stop flickering would likely be a good goal at this point as it might be trying to show info I can’t currently see.

Hi Fellas,

I'm having an issue with my left side targets (SW41,51,61) and left roll over (SW71) on my Raven. The schematics below show they are all in series. It looks like the solders are ok but look like they have been changed before. I've cleaned and adjusted the switches which look good and also checked the connector at the MPU. Gave it the 'ol jiggle and plug/unplug... which did nothing. Any ideas on what I should be looking for or common issues?

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They are all on "Return 1". It's 611 color wire at pin A1J6-11. see if you have good continuity back to A1. Check at a board trace to eliminate edge connector as a concern. If no, then wiring problem.
If yes, then "Return 1" traces to chip Z13 pin 9 on the A1. That's a 7400. probably bad. You can check it using a multimeter on diode test. Reference pinwiki for proper testing.

I got a hotter coil from Steve at PBR.

SEE MY POSTS 1896 and 1909 in this thread. I had same problem.
Where did you get the 7400?.

I wound up taking the apron off the bottom and playing for a bit. When the issue happened I noticed that the ball kicker, which kicks the ball to the holding area, had not successfully kicked the ball up and when the ball came back down it registered as another ball drain. So every once in a while the kicker will not get the ball over the hump and, seemingly unrelated, the ball release latch will open and the ball will not drop into the shooting lane. Its very aggravating about how infrequent these things happen. I am going to take bock pieces apart and clean everything and will see if that helps.

Did yours clear up after you replaced Z14? Mine got a little better after doing that, but not fully fixed.

I got the 7400 from a surprisingly awesome electronics store in town. It's called Elliott Electronics. Not the best prices ever, but if I want to work on something that day, it's worth the trip. https://www.elliottelectronicsupply.com/

I actually replaced 2 chips IIRC.
I had the issue on Volcano which is an 80A.
If you are working on circus that is a system 80. Not sure if it makes a difference.
Also, are using the factory MPU?

I think I also changed out z11 which was the return for that switch matrix in Volcano. ( 80A ). I am not at home and cannot review my notes.
The Z11 chip made no difference at all but the Z14 7400 fixed the test buttons, coin slot sws and the other things in that line that did not work.

I asked where you got the chip because occasionally you can get a Chinese counterfeit that is NG.

Matesamo
PBR has that complete light sequence sticker that the loop digs into for short money.
I think it was about $6. when I bought it some years ago

I posted this in SS tech but did not realize there was a system 1-80 club. So I apologize for the crosslisting I am hoping some sys80 experts can help.

I have a Volcano that was working fine and then lost its sound. It has a Rottendog MPU, Niwumpf driver board, new power supply, and new Swemmer sound board. It has sound in attract mode, but not during game. It also oddly plays the attract mode sounds during a game every 4 minutes or so - I have attract mode DIP setting set to 4 minute intervals on the sound board. Here is what I have done thus far to trouble shoot the problem.

1) I have repinned all of the connectors including the harness between the MPU and driver board
2) Sound board diagnostic checks out fine - all correct numbers are voiced at the end of the sound board check when grounding the appropriate pins
3) Grounding the pins on the driver board connector at A3j5 results in correct sounds
4) Grounding the pins on z13 on the driver board results in no sound
5) when in diagnostic test, grounding the appropriate pins on z13 results in "FAIL" for each sound
6) Logic probe readings for z13 outputs during attract mode are pin 2- hi, pin 4 - hi, pin 6-hi, pin 8-lo.
7) Logic probe readings for z13 during a game are pin 2- hi, pin 4 - hi, pin 6-hi, pin 8-lo.
8) Logic probe readings for z3 pin 9 for sound 16 in attract mode lo
9) Upstream at z31 in attract mode pin 6- lo, pin 3- lo, pin 11- lo, pin 8 - lo (same readings on these pins in game)
10) Upstream at z27 attract mode pin 2 - hi, pin 4- hi, pin 6- hi, pin 12 - lo (same readings on these pins in game)

Thanks,

Robert

Last night I traced the continuity from the connector to the targets and roll over. That worked. I also traced the board to pin 9. I even switched out the chip... nothing changed.

Could it be the metal pin inside the edge connector not making decent contact with the board? That means a need to repin or replace the connector eh? I'm not sure how to test the connection while the edge connector is on the board... Could I test the connector while it's on the board by testing continuity from pin 9 z13 from the targets?

I also have a Volcano with all original boards.

On the original sound board the dip switches control what sounds are active.
Are there dips on the Swemmer?
Did you make sure they are fully engaged ( meaning fully at end of stroke)?

Yes, the Swemmer board has DIP switches. I have them set for background sound and voice. They are fully engaged.

From PinWiki:

".... Early on, System 1 games up until around Close Encounters used a single-color and two-color wiring code system. Starting around Close Encounters, Gottlieb® adopted a three color system. Most wiring in a Gottlieb® game used a white base color, which is the wire's insulation color, and three "striped" traces on each wire. I state most cases, because there are some wires which only used two colors - the green insulated ground lines which have a single yellow trace. Below is the Gottlieb® color chart. ..."

Your wiring in foto2 is correct, checked this. The craps in your display is probably a contact problem.

Well, I've tested the continuity from the targets all the way to the z13 pin 9 straight, seems fine. I've also reflowed solder on the pins of z13... still nothing...

Could it be the grounding at the targets? I've tested that but can someone guide me on how to test the targets grounding to make sure I'm doing it right...

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