Home for the Gottlieb SYS1-SYS80B guys, Yep it's a club :)

(Topic ID: 73213)

Home for the Gottlieb SYS1-SYS80B guys, Yep it's a club :)


By Gerry

5 years ago



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  • Latest reply 1 hour ago by sagejr
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There are 2644 posts in this topic. You are on page 43 of 53.
#2101 9 months ago

Yes I know I was going to clean that mess up, I was just testing and than come across this problem lol.

I have removed the earth wire mod and have a open circuit on the dmm for the To22o transistors. If I connect the earth mod Q2 still open but LIC1 reads 564ohms, if that helps.

Yes all screws including Q1 are well insulated from the L-plate heat shrink bracket , I tested everywhere poss to make sure their was no grounding on the plate before I put it back in place, only when you put the earth mod back on do you read any ohms and thats just at LIC1.

Reading from pin1 60v and pin5 gnd is open

#2102 9 months ago

Would a 2w 10K do for both R10 and R11 or is that to much wattage?

As I am on ebay right now ordering most of the parts required just in case. As I found out I have no 33ohm 1/2 resistors doh.

#2103 9 months ago

Thats on the body of LIC1

#2104 9 months ago
Quoted from LGFAutos:

Would a 2w 10K do for both R10 and R11 or is that to much wattage?
As I am on ebay right now ordering most of the parts required just in case. As I found out I have no 33ohm 1/2 resistors doh.

Here is the kit I used to rebuild. He lists part numbers, maybe it will help you cross reference?

http://www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com/repairkits/gottlieb_kits.htm#g-1ps

Also this sys1 power supply schematic lists parts like resistors too

http://www.pinrepair.com/sys1/ps1.gif

Hope it helps!

#2105 9 months ago

Thank you for that.

Ok just ordered all the parts, will be back when here and fitted.

thank yo again for all your help

#2106 9 months ago

That’s what we’re here for! Lots of smart people in this thread and they’ve helped me a bunch too. Can’t wait to hear an update!

#2107 9 months ago

Will do, trouble is I live in France where I think they use donkeys for the postal system, and this month has 5 or 6 bank holidays to.

So hopefully should be end of next week and will be back with a update

#2108 9 months ago
Quoted from dhard:

Buy from Mike with confidence if you don't know him he does nice work on what he sells

Thanks for the kind words. If anybody needs it I'm starting to work on some Gottlieb boards for other people. No system 1 mpu's. I don't currently have a system 3 to test in so those are out also. I have done some work for a few people on here, I'll let them chime in if they want. Mike

#2109 9 months ago

Hey all, I'm an uber novice at Gottleibs and need some advice. Is it necessary to run all the ground mods from each board? Or is Todd Tuckey from TNT correct in that the only fix needed is to add another ground wire in the harness in between the driver board and the MPU board? Conflicting info has me confused. Thanks!

#2110 9 months ago
Quoted from japespin:

Hey all, I'm an uber novice at Gottleibs and need some advice. Is it necessary to run all the ground mods from each board? Or is Todd Tuckey from TNT correct in that the only fix needed is to add another ground wire in the harness in between the driver board and the MPU board? Conflicting info has me confused. Thanks!

Sys1 needs each board grounded. I think on a sys80 the main harness ground was required but some ground each board as well?

#2111 9 months ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Sys1 needs each board grounded. I think on a sys80 the main harness ground was required but some ground each board as well?

Thanks northvibe ! Yeah Black Hole, so its Sys80. Any idea why Todd Tuckey is saying only harness ground is needed, and not boards as well?

#2112 9 months ago
Quoted from japespin:

Thanks northvibe ! Yeah Black Hole, so its Sys80. Any idea why Todd Tuckey is saying only harness ground is needed, and not boards as well?

Because technically, from a design point, only that one ground is required to overcome the issue of the driver board not being grounded properly to the MPU which drives it.

All other grounding is done in the various connectors back to the main power tray. But one school of thought is to insure that every single board shares a strong common ground such as when other pinball brand boards are screwed to the ground plane. It all depends on the conditions of the connectors male and female pins or board contacts.

#2113 9 months ago
Quoted from japespin:

Thanks northvibe ! Yeah Black Hole, so its Sys80. Any idea why Todd Tuckey is saying only harness ground is needed, and not boards as well?

http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#The_CPU_.2F_Driver_Board_Interconnect_Harness

5.3.1 is adding a ground to that main harness between boards. Aka the TNT one he is referring to. However pin wiki is mentioning a 5v. The ground was a tsb done by many ops, so mine had it done when I bought it.

#2114 9 months ago

i started a thread for some assistance with regards to gottleib EPROM questions.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-eprom-questions

thought i would bring it to sys 80 clubs attention because im sure most of my help will come from you all here

i have a few questions regarding gottlieb EPROMs, more specifically for a Spring Break. i have a spring break that needs lots of TLC. i have gotten it to the point that it will power up and sometimes play. i am quite certain it is a re-import. it currently has German roms in it and all the maintenance menus are in German, and not only that, when it does a rom check it indicates that PROM 1 is bad. i reached out to the pinside community a sort time ago asking for some help with burning ROMs with no responses.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/eprom-help-from-a-fellow-colorado-pinsider#post-4352151

so i have taken it upon myself to purchase my own EPROM programmer. i have arriving tomorrow a GQ-4X. since ordering i have been doing a lot of research on how to burn roms and Ect. i know that whoever owns the rights to gottlieb has everything pretty locked down as far as rom code and manuals. my questions are these...

*does anyone have spring break roms images that they could pass on to me?
*do the rom images that are on virtual pinball sites work if burnt onto EPROMS
*i found the rom images on flipprojects and would be great to have freeplay enabled without a mod, but the rom image is only for EPROM 1 and this may work
because thats my bad one but my other EPROM would still be in German.
*did i just by a EPROM programmer that will do me very little good because ill never be able to find or purchase the images, and will eventually have to
purchase preprogrammed EPROM chips from whoever has the rights. making my new programmer purchase worthless?
*can the EPROM image files be purchased from whoever hold the rights so that i can download and burn and make use of my programmer

any help would be greatly appreciated
thanks
Brandon

#2115 9 months ago

I reported a funky slam tilt problem with my Volcano a couple weeks back. Turns out this game was once owned by Ace @ Ni-Wumpf, and the board is a prototype. He updated the code and the slam tilt is no longer an issue. I've got some coils performing intermittently, so next task is to rebuild the CPU/Driver connector. Shout out to Ace - he was a huge help.

Cheers!!
Bob

#2116 9 months ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

Is the outhole switch working?

forceflow
The switch is NOT working!!! Great question!

FINALLY I had some time to test while at work. We had gone through and cleaned switches with business card and alcohol but didn't validate each. I'll have to shine up the contacts and adjust as the ball wire isn't tripping the switch either. I shall update in a day or two.

1 week later
#2117 9 months ago

Finally found one. Boom goes the dynamite

D4D6784A-B2A9-4712-8E14-EE2ED337901B (resized).jpeg

#2118 9 months ago

Hi All,

I have all the parts now for the power supply on this Charlie's Angels.

I have replaced, some twice after bench testing due to the readings i'm getting.

1, All the diodes
2, All the Zener diodes, twice after testing
3, Q2 TIP31C, twice after testing
4, Q3 2N3416, twice after testing
5, Q4 MPSA43, twice after testing
6, All the resistors, same resistance but 1 or 2 watt, twice after testing
7, C9 and C10 Tantalum capacitors, twice after testing

All the other capacitors were replaced before the fault of no voltage.
Both Trim pots were replaced at the same time.

Here is the voltage readings as per the test points on the 60v supply, as to German-Pinball pic on the last page.

I have 32vac on both of the wires in A2J1 using the earth in the same socket
I have 72vac on where it comes onto the board between the diodes.
I have 98.1vdc at C on TIP31C
I have 96.5vdc after R10 and R11
I have 60.7vdc at C on Q4 MPSA43
I have 0.4vdc at B on Q4 MPSA43
I have 88.2vdc at B on Q3 2N3416
I have 96.4vdc at E on Q2 TIP31C
I have 12.5vdc at the earth on C10
I have 95.1vdc at A2P3 for the 60vdc
I have 76.4vdc at A2P3 for the 42vdc

Any help would be great, as this is getting stupid (before no voltage now way to much) lol

#2119 9 months ago
Quoted from LGFAutos:

Hi All,
I have all the parts now for the power supply on this Charlie's Angels.
I have replaced, some twice after bench testing due to the readings i'm getting.
1, All the diodes
2, All the Zener diodes, twice after testing
3, Q2 TIP31C, twice after testing
4, Q3 2N3416, twice after testing
5, Q4 MPSA43, twice after testing
6, All the resistors, same resistance but 1 or 2 watt, twice after testing
7, C9 and C10 Tantalum capacitors, twice after testing
All the other capacitors were replaced before the fault of no voltage.
Both Trim pots were replaced at the same time.
Here is the voltage readings as per the test points on the 60v supply, as to German-Pinball pic on the last page.
I have 32vac on both of the wires in A2J1 using the earth in the same socket
I have 72vac on where it comes onto the board between the diodes.
I have 98.1vdc at C on TIP31C
I have 96.5vdc after R10 and R11
I have 60.7vdc at C on Q4 MPSA43
I have 0.4vdc at B on Q4 MPSA43
I have 88.2vdc at B on Q3 2N3416
I have 96.4vdc at E on Q2 TIP31C
I have 12.5vdc at the earth on C10
I have 95.1vdc at A2P3 for the 60vdc
I have 76.4vdc at A2P3 for the 42vdc
Any help would be great, as this is getting stupid (before no voltage now way to much) lol

CR10 installed the correct way?

#2120 9 months ago

Hi German-Pinball,

Yes the + on CR10 is next to the plus on the board just under C8

#2121 9 months ago

CR9 and CR10 are 1uf 50v Tantalum capacitors as ref pinwiki

#2122 9 months ago

Just checked R14 and I have 84vdc on the plus side

#2123 9 months ago

Also German-Pinball,

I read that C8 + sign on the board was on the wrong side, so C8 is back to front according to the board.

#2124 9 months ago

Any reviews on guys using the Pascal all in one on the system 80's games. I love them on the system 1 games but have never played a system 80's pin with one installed . would like to pick up a spiderman in the near future

#2125 9 months ago

Ok All,

Update on the power supply over voltage problem.

Heres what I have done to try and sort this power supply problem:

1, cut the Collector leg on Q2 (TIP31C) and made a board with 3 resistors (2.7k ceramic, 2 x 150ohms) on it. which was soldered in line after the 4 1N4004 diodes to Q2 TIP31C, which brought the voltage down to 60vdc and 42vdc at A2P3. I then plugged A2J3 in with a dmm on the 60vdc just to check as I turned the pinball on. The voltage dropped to 32vdc and the display was very dim.

2, I then took the 3 resistors of the board I had made and put just 1 resistor on it which was 560ohms and with the dmm still reading the 60vdc reading I turned the pinball on again. I now have 58.5vdc at A2J3 and the displays are ok.

Any help on why this is happening would be great

#2126 9 months ago
Quoted from plowpusher:

Any reviews on guys using the Pascal all in one on the system 80's games. I love them on the system 1 games but have never played a system 80's pin with one installed . would like to pick up a spiderman in the near future

I have one for my BH, awesome board. Has menu and high scores saved. Also I think he now has the sound board addon for the US spec BH gen so you can really do an all in one. Also added is free play and other game specific features

#2127 9 months ago

Hi All,

Ok have modified the power supply for the moment just to test (not ideal but not for game use).

So after putting a 3.6v nicad battery pack down out the way. I started the game and now have no sound at all and I think its called the out hole, ie when the ball goes down pass the flippers. It just sits there instead of being knocked out for your second ball, I have tested the switch and tested again at A1J7 where it plugs into the CPU and the switch works when the ball is on it. Also if I turn that switch on and off the game resets the drop targets.

Any help please. or ideas.

#2128 9 months ago

Oh forgot to mention I have reset the first 10 memory items.

And the right credit display is showing 70 if this has anything to do with it.

Just noted that I can't start a game with the credit button

#2129 9 months ago

Quick update.....

If I earth out the tab on Q32 the outhole coil flicks the ball into play, also if there are 4 players playing this moves it onto the next player when your turn is over.

#2130 9 months ago

Also I can make the sound board work by touching the tabs on Q26, Q27 and Q28

#2131 9 months ago

Quick update with the fault on the sounds and out hole...... Z6 SN7417N chip is faulty.

Still working on the over voltage from the 60v side of the power supply.....

#2132 9 months ago
Quoted from northvibe:

I have one for my BH, awesome board. Has menu and high scores saved. Also I think he now has the sound board addon for the US spec BH gen so you can really do an all in one. Also added is free play and other game specific features

I second that. Great product. Great customer support too.

Here's my BH running on one.

#2133 9 months ago

Where are you guys getting your 80B freeplay ROM chips from? Or are you making them yourselves?

#2134 9 months ago
Quoted from JodyG:

Where are you guys getting your 80B freeplay ROM chips from? Or are you making them yourselves?

I made mine with a cheap ebay eprom programmer.

#2135 9 months ago
Quoted from woodmedic:

I made mine with a cheap ebay eprom programmer.

Would that work on my genesis

#2136 9 months ago

I have a count-down and the tilt switch isn't registering in gameplay or in test. I traced it back to the connector with a dmm successfully.
Look like a bad board?
Thanks for any help.

#2137 9 months ago
Quoted from schmittyz:

I have a count-down and the tilt switch isn't registering in gameplay or in test. I traced it back to the connector with a dmm successfully.
Look like a bad board?
Thanks for any help.

Is the signal getting past the connector? It could just be a dirty or bad pin. It is a Gottlieb after all.

#2138 9 months ago
Quoted from dhard:

Would that work on my genesis

Yes it would. Mine is a Genesis as well.

#2139 9 months ago
Quoted from woodmedic:

Yes it would. Mine is a Genesis as well.

How about a Robowar?

#2140 8 months ago

Need help please!!!!

Changed both Z6 and Z7 (SN7417N), tested to make sure no link to the pins next to each other after installing them.

Now when I power both the 3/4 fuses blow at the small transformer (fuse mod) which in turn gives the -12v and Z6 now has 0 resistance between pin 14 (+5v) and pin 8 (-12v)

Any ideas would be greatly helpful.

#2141 8 months ago

On Pinball Pool, Does anybody know which transistor on the driver board controls the C on the right inlane? I tested them all and could not find the bad transistor. It lights up on startup and never turns off

#2142 8 months ago
Quoted from Don44:

On Pinball Pool, Does anybody know which transistor on the driver board controls the C on the right inlane? I tested them all and could not find the bad transistor. It lights up on startup and never turns off

It should be Lamp 23, so it is transistor Q23 (MPS-A13).

You can also use BC517, but observe the pinout!!!!

#2143 8 months ago

Thanks for the help!

#2144 8 months ago

Think I may have found the problem....

I am using Texas SN7417N chips which after some reading, tap 1 is left of the indent on the top of the chip. When I removed the old chips this indent was at the bottom of the board near the J5 connector, but when I tested that chip the 5v was top right of the chip. So this would mean that tap 1 and 14 are at the top looking at the board and not the bottom as to the indent from the original chip.....

Is this correct or am I going nuts.....If it is then I have put the chip in around the wrong way.

#2145 8 months ago
Quoted from Pinballerchef:

How about a Robowar?

Can I get a link to the freeplay ROBOWAR ROM please?!

#2146 8 months ago

On our vacation road trip last week, my wife and I went to Devils Tower in Wyoming. On our way in, we stopped at the neighboring KOA store. Inside, I was amused (but not surprised) to see a Close Encounters pin (with Out of Order sign on it). Chatting with a woman who worked there, she showed me that there was a second Close Encounters pin in the next room (that one was working) and told me that there was a third one elsewhere on the property too.

So, if you go to Devils Tower and need to play a little pinball, stop at the KOA.

IMG_20180522_143529 (resized).jpg

IMG_20180522_145213 (resized).jpg

IMG_20180522_145204 (resized).jpg

#2147 8 months ago

Whats the best route of action to replace the original display board in a mars god of war. ..?

#2148 8 months ago
Quoted from LGFAutos:

Think I may have found the problem....
I am using Texas SN7417N chips which after some reading, tap 1 is left of the indent on the top of the chip. When I removed the old chips this indent was at the bottom of the board near the J5 connector, but when I tested that chip the 5v was top right of the chip. So this would mean that tap 1 and 14 are at the top looking at the board and not the bottom as to the indent from the original chip.....
Is this correct or am I going nuts.....If it is then I have put the chip in around the wrong way.

Pin1 is BOTTOM RIGHT, so you put it in wrong!!!

sys1 cpu-board (resized).JPG

#2149 8 months ago
Quoted from Pinballerchef:

How about a Robowar?

Quoted from Pinballerchef:

Can I get a link to the freeplay ROBOWAR ROM please?!

Here is a link to the system 80 freeplay roms

http://www.flipprojets.fr/Proms80B_EN.php

This is what I am using and it works very well. You just have to view the readme and set the dip switches accordingly.

#2150 8 months ago

Hi German-Pinball,

Thank you for that, just made things a little harder lol.

Thats how I put it in, bottom right pin1 so why does it keep shorting across pin 1 and 7 ,reading 3.4ohms across pin1 and pin7 on a new 7417, and 0 resistance after it powers up and then blows the 3/4a fuse for the 14vac supply.

When I tested the original 7417 the 5v was top right and where pin 1 is bottom right I was reading -12v, that's when going through the tests on pinrepair for the 7417 that I found it was dud as the out hole would only fire on one of the pair of pins for it with 5volts.

Will take the 7417 out and test the feeds to the Z6 again with power to test properly and let you know what readings I find.

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