Home for the Gottlieb SYS1-SYS80B guys, Yep it's a club :)


By Gerry

4 years ago


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There are 2131 posts in topic. You are on page 43 of 43.
#2101 22 days ago

Yes I know I was going to clean that mess up, I was just testing and than come across this problem lol.

I have removed the earth wire mod and have a open circuit on the dmm for the To22o transistors. If I connect the earth mod Q2 still open but LIC1 reads 564ohms, if that helps.

Yes all screws including Q1 are well insulated from the L-plate heat shrink bracket , I tested everywhere poss to make sure their was no grounding on the plate before I put it back in place, only when you put the earth mod back on do you read any ohms and thats just at LIC1.

Reading from pin1 60v and pin5 gnd is open

#2102 22 days ago

Would a 2w 10K do for both R10 and R11 or is that to much wattage?

As I am on ebay right now ordering most of the parts required just in case. As I found out I have no 33ohm 1/2 resistors doh.

#2103 22 days ago

Thats on the body of LIC1

#2104 22 days ago
Quoted from LGFAutos:

Would a 2w 10K do for both R10 and R11 or is that to much wattage?
As I am on ebay right now ordering most of the parts required just in case. As I found out I have no 33ohm 1/2 resistors doh.

Here is the kit I used to rebuild. He lists part numbers, maybe it will help you cross reference?

http://www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com/repairkits/gottlieb_kits.htm#g-1ps

Also this sys1 power supply schematic lists parts like resistors too

http://www.pinrepair.com/sys1/ps1.gif

Hope it helps!

#2105 22 days ago

Thank you for that.

Ok just ordered all the parts, will be back when here and fitted.

thank yo again for all your help

#2106 22 days ago

That’s what we’re here for! Lots of smart people in this thread and they’ve helped me a bunch too. Can’t wait to hear an update!

#2107 21 days ago

Will do, trouble is I live in France where I think they use donkeys for the postal system, and this month has 5 or 6 bank holidays to.

So hopefully should be end of next week and will be back with a update

#2108 21 days ago
Quoted from dhard:

Buy from Mike with confidence if you don't know him he does nice work on what he sells

Thanks for the kind words. If anybody needs it I'm starting to work on some Gottlieb boards for other people. No system 1 mpu's. I don't currently have a system 3 to test in so those are out also. I have done some work for a few people on here, I'll let them chime in if they want. Mike

#2109 19 days ago

Hey all, I'm an uber novice at Gottleibs and need some advice. Is it necessary to run all the ground mods from each board? Or is Todd Tuckey from TNT correct in that the only fix needed is to add another ground wire in the harness in between the driver board and the MPU board? Conflicting info has me confused. Thanks!

#2110 19 days ago
Quoted from japespin:

Hey all, I'm an uber novice at Gottleibs and need some advice. Is it necessary to run all the ground mods from each board? Or is Todd Tuckey from TNT correct in that the only fix needed is to add another ground wire in the harness in between the driver board and the MPU board? Conflicting info has me confused. Thanks!

Sys1 needs each board grounded. I think on a sys80 the main harness ground was required but some ground each board as well?

#2111 19 days ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Sys1 needs each board grounded. I think on a sys80 the main harness ground was required but some ground each board as well?

Thanks @northvibe ! Yeah Black Hole, so its Sys80. Any idea why Todd Tuckey is saying only harness ground is needed, and not boards as well?

#2112 19 days ago
Quoted from japespin:

Thanks northvibe ! Yeah Black Hole, so its Sys80. Any idea why Todd Tuckey is saying only harness ground is needed, and not boards as well?

Because technically, from a design point, only that one ground is required to overcome the issue of the driver board not being grounded properly to the MPU which drives it.

All other grounding is done in the various connectors back to the main power tray. But one school of thought is to insure that every single board shares a strong common ground such as when other pinball brand boards are screwed to the ground plane. It all depends on the conditions of the connectors male and female pins or board contacts.

#2113 19 days ago
Quoted from japespin:

Thanks northvibe ! Yeah Black Hole, so its Sys80. Any idea why Todd Tuckey is saying only harness ground is needed, and not boards as well?

http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#The_CPU_.2F_Driver_Board_Interconnect_Harness

5.3.1 is adding a ground to that main harness between boards. Aka the TNT one he is referring to. However pin wiki is mentioning a 5v. The ground was a tsb done by many ops, so mine had it done when I bought it.

#2114 18 days ago

i started a thread for some assistance with regards to gottleib EPROM questions.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-eprom-questions

thought i would bring it to sys 80 clubs attention because im sure most of my help will come from you all here

i have a few questions regarding gottlieb EPROMs, more specifically for a Spring Break. i have a spring break that needs lots of TLC. i have gotten it to the point that it will power up and sometimes play. i am quite certain it is a re-import. it currently has German roms in it and all the maintenance menus are in German, and not only that, when it does a rom check it indicates that PROM 1 is bad. i reached out to the pinside community a sort time ago asking for some help with burning ROMs with no responses.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/eprom-help-from-a-fellow-colorado-pinsider#post-4352151

so i have taken it upon myself to purchase my own EPROM programmer. i have arriving tomorrow a GQ-4X. since ordering i have been doing a lot of research on how to burn roms and Ect. i know that whoever owns the rights to gottlieb has everything pretty locked down as far as rom code and manuals. my questions are these...

*does anyone have spring break roms images that they could pass on to me?
*do the rom images that are on virtual pinball sites work if burnt onto EPROMS
*i found the rom images on flipprojects and would be great to have freeplay enabled without a mod, but the rom image is only for EPROM 1 and this may work
because thats my bad one but my other EPROM would still be in German.
*did i just by a EPROM programmer that will do me very little good because ill never be able to find or purchase the images, and will eventually have to
purchase preprogrammed EPROM chips from whoever has the rights. making my new programmer purchase worthless?
*can the EPROM image files be purchased from whoever hold the rights so that i can download and burn and make use of my programmer

any help would be greatly appreciated
thanks
Brandon

#2115 18 days ago

I reported a funky slam tilt problem with my Volcano a couple weeks back. Turns out this game was once owned by Ace @ Ni-Wumpf, and the board is a prototype. He updated the code and the slam tilt is no longer an issue. I've got some coils performing intermittently, so next task is to rebuild the CPU/Driver connector. Shout out to Ace - he was a huge help.

Cheers!!
Bob

#2116 18 days ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

Is the outhole switch working?

@forceflow
The switch is NOT working!!! Great question!

FINALLY I had some time to test while at work. We had gone through and cleaned switches with business card and alcohol but didn't validate each. I'll have to shine up the contacts and adjust as the ball wire isn't tripping the switch either. I shall update in a day or two.

1 week later
#2117 10 days ago

Finally found one. Boom goes the dynamite

D4D6784A-B2A9-4712-8E14-EE2ED337901B (resized).jpeg

#2118 9 days ago

Hi All,

I have all the parts now for the power supply on this Charlie's Angels.

I have replaced, some twice after bench testing due to the readings i'm getting.

1, All the diodes
2, All the Zener diodes, twice after testing
3, Q2 TIP31C, twice after testing
4, Q3 2N3416, twice after testing
5, Q4 MPSA43, twice after testing
6, All the resistors, same resistance but 1 or 2 watt, twice after testing
7, C9 and C10 Tantalum capacitors, twice after testing

All the other capacitors were replaced before the fault of no voltage.
Both Trim pots were replaced at the same time.

Here is the voltage readings as per the test points on the 60v supply, as to German-Pinball pic on the last page.

I have 32vac on both of the wires in A2J1 using the earth in the same socket
I have 72vac on where it comes onto the board between the diodes.
I have 98.1vdc at C on TIP31C
I have 96.5vdc after R10 and R11
I have 60.7vdc at C on Q4 MPSA43
I have 0.4vdc at B on Q4 MPSA43
I have 88.2vdc at B on Q3 2N3416
I have 96.4vdc at E on Q2 TIP31C
I have 12.5vdc at the earth on C10
I have 95.1vdc at A2P3 for the 60vdc
I have 76.4vdc at A2P3 for the 42vdc

Any help would be great, as this is getting stupid (before no voltage now way to much) lol

#2119 9 days ago
Quoted from LGFAutos:

Hi All,
I have all the parts now for the power supply on this Charlie's Angels.
I have replaced, some twice after bench testing due to the readings i'm getting.
1, All the diodes
2, All the Zener diodes, twice after testing
3, Q2 TIP31C, twice after testing
4, Q3 2N3416, twice after testing
5, Q4 MPSA43, twice after testing
6, All the resistors, same resistance but 1 or 2 watt, twice after testing
7, C9 and C10 Tantalum capacitors, twice after testing
All the other capacitors were replaced before the fault of no voltage.
Both Trim pots were replaced at the same time.
Here is the voltage readings as per the test points on the 60v supply, as to German-Pinball pic on the last page.
I have 32vac on both of the wires in A2J1 using the earth in the same socket
I have 72vac on where it comes onto the board between the diodes.
I have 98.1vdc at C on TIP31C
I have 96.5vdc after R10 and R11
I have 60.7vdc at C on Q4 MPSA43
I have 0.4vdc at B on Q4 MPSA43
I have 88.2vdc at B on Q3 2N3416
I have 96.4vdc at E on Q2 TIP31C
I have 12.5vdc at the earth on C10
I have 95.1vdc at A2P3 for the 60vdc
I have 76.4vdc at A2P3 for the 42vdc
Any help would be great, as this is getting stupid (before no voltage now way to much) lol

CR10 installed the correct way?

#2120 9 days ago

Hi German-Pinball,

Yes the + on CR10 is next to the plus on the board just under C8

#2121 9 days ago

CR9 and CR10 are 1uf 50v Tantalum capacitors as ref pinwiki

#2122 9 days ago

Just checked R14 and I have 84vdc on the plus side

#2123 8 days ago

Also German-Pinball,

I read that C8 + sign on the board was on the wrong side, so C8 is back to front according to the board.

#2124 7 days ago

Any reviews on guys using the Pascal all in one on the system 80's games. I love them on the system 1 games but have never played a system 80's pin with one installed . would like to pick up a spiderman in the near future

#2125 7 days ago

Ok All,

Update on the power supply over voltage problem.

Heres what I have done to try and sort this power supply problem:

1, cut the Collector leg on Q2 (TIP31C) and made a board with 3 resistors (2.7k ceramic, 2 x 150ohms) on it. which was soldered in line after the 4 1N4004 diodes to Q2 TIP31C, which brought the voltage down to 60vdc and 42vdc at A2P3. I then plugged A2J3 in with a dmm on the 60vdc just to check as I turned the pinball on. The voltage dropped to 32vdc and the display was very dim.

2, I then took the 3 resistors of the board I had made and put just 1 resistor on it which was 560ohms and with the dmm still reading the 60vdc reading I turned the pinball on again. I now have 58.5vdc at A2J3 and the displays are ok.

Any help on why this is happening would be great

#2126 7 days ago
Quoted from plowpusher:

Any reviews on guys using the Pascal all in one on the system 80's games. I love them on the system 1 games but have never played a system 80's pin with one installed . would like to pick up a spiderman in the near future

I have one for my BH, awesome board. Has menu and high scores saved. Also I think he now has the sound board addon for the US spec BH gen so you can really do an all in one. Also added is free play and other game specific features

#2127 5 days ago

Hi All,

Ok have modified the power supply for the moment just to test (not ideal but not for game use).

So after putting a 3.6v nicad battery pack down out the way. I started the game and now have no sound at all and I think its called the out hole, ie when the ball goes down pass the flippers. It just sits there instead of being knocked out for your second ball, I have tested the switch and tested again at A1J7 where it plugs into the CPU and the switch works when the ball is on it. Also if I turn that switch on and off the game resets the drop targets.

Any help please. or ideas.

#2128 5 days ago

Oh forgot to mention I have reset the first 10 memory items.

And the right credit display is showing 70 if this has anything to do with it.

Just noted that I can't start a game with the credit button

#2129 5 days ago

Quick update.....

If I earth out the tab on Q32 the outhole coil flicks the ball into play, also if there are 4 players playing this moves it onto the next player when your turn is over.

#2130 5 days ago

Also I can make the sound board work by touching the tabs on Q26, Q27 and Q28

#2131 3 days ago

Quick update with the fault on the sounds and out hole...... Z6 SN7417N chip is faulty.

Still working on the over voltage from the 60v side of the power supply.....

#2132 2 days ago
Quoted from northvibe:

I have one for my BH, awesome board. Has menu and high scores saved. Also I think he now has the sound board addon for the US spec BH gen so you can really do an all in one. Also added is free play and other game specific features

I second that. Great product. Great customer support too.

Here's my BH running on one.
» YouTube video

#2133 2 days ago

Where are you guys getting your 80B freeplay ROM chips from? Or are you making them yourselves?

#2134 2 days ago
Quoted from JodyG:

Where are you guys getting your 80B freeplay ROM chips from? Or are you making them yourselves?

I made mine with a cheap ebay eprom programmer.

#2135 1 day ago
Quoted from woodmedic:

I made mine with a cheap ebay eprom programmer.

Would that work on my genesis

#2136 1 day ago

I have a count-down and the tilt switch isn't registering in gameplay or in test. I traced it back to the connector with a dmm successfully.
Look like a bad board?
Thanks for any help.

#2137 1 day ago
Quoted from schmittyz:

I have a count-down and the tilt switch isn't registering in gameplay or in test. I traced it back to the connector with a dmm successfully.
Look like a bad board?
Thanks for any help.

Is the signal getting past the connector? It could just be a dirty or bad pin. It is a Gottlieb after all.

#2138 1 day ago
Quoted from dhard:

Would that work on my genesis

Yes it would. Mine is a Genesis as well.

#2139 16 hours ago
Quoted from woodmedic:

Yes it would. Mine is a Genesis as well.

How about a Robowar?

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