Ya I agree with mad dog

Follow this
http://www.pinrepair.com/sys1/index.htm#power

They walk through how to test power from the power cord to the cpu board, and what to do if there is an issue. Has been GREAT help getting my friends roller disco going.

voltages were all good on the PS and pins seem fine.

all stock boards

thanks ill look into the power

You will be back.

So I recapped my power supply cause I had a lot so why not. It’s still turning on currently here and there but not much has changed until it blew my 1amp primary fuse next to me transformer so I put back the other power supply I had which works fine it seems and I checked the bridges one was reading between .4 and .6 from both ground and + but the other one was reading about .393 from both ground and + is that a big enough difference for it to affect the game? Should I replace it?

I recently got everything working 100% on my pinball pool. I decided to play a game or 2 last night and wound up playing it for an hour. Its really a fun challenging game. I think I like it better than my joker poker.

blasphemer! Pinball Pool is definitely very fun, as is Joker Poker I'm glad I have both. I recently added a gottlieb chime unit to my pinball pool and like it even better with chimes. I have one for Countdown as well just need to finish the install then all my system 1's will be chimes.

Hello,

Is this for your System 1? As a rule, transformers are seldom the problem. They just normally work. Testing voltage on them is a little challenging. without knowing the details I would say you are well within specs.

How concerning is it if my Bridge rectifier is reading .393 instead of between .4-.6? Replace? Or is it fine?
Also my 2 12A fuses have covers around the glass. is that normal?

Spec is .4-.6, so it wouldn’t hurt to replace it.

Covers? Like paper screwed down to cover them? If that is the case, yes, pretty normal for high amp fuses to have a cover

Follow the testing in
http://www.pinrepair.com/sys1/index.htm#power

You’ll want to unplug all plugs from power supply board. Power game on, do tests, and then turn game off, plug only the cab power to the psu, run tests on the psu test points and make sure the pots are adjusted to output the correct voltage, then you can power off and plug game boards in once confirmed

Not sure if this is already in the thread but if someone is looking for sys80 manuals there is a pdf of Gottlieb Amazing Spiderman user manual here:

http://www.gametronik.com/site/fiche/pinmame/Spiderman/

I knew there was one out there somewhere, 'cause I have a copy. Unobtanium from ipdb due to the blue meanies.

Your 2.5A fusing is risking not only the life of the DT Reset coil, but also the drivers on the driver board. Chances are, while the coil draws more than 2Amps it doesn't draw the full 2.5 amps so the fuse does not blow. Instead, the coil will heat up, start burning enamel off the windings, start to short windings to windings, reduce the Ohms, increase the current draw, and then start blowing the higher rated fuse. That's if it doesn't melt its nylon sleeve first (unless it has the old Brass ones).

I do have all the ground mods one the back box boards, (not the sound board yet) but an hour ago I changed the diode on the coil with a new one and put back the 2A fuse and ive played about 10 games so far and everything is working and the game is turning on every try. cross your finders for me.

UPDATE: Trying to troubleshoot and pinpoint this controlled lamp issue, trying to narrow down the possibilities. Repinned all the grounds and trouble lamps, in addition to the opposite side sides (in order to provide good pressure / contact against the edge connectors — sort of Gottlieb grounding issue on the MPU - Driver board harness) on the A3-J3 harness. I even located and used the proper bifurcated edge connector pins, and corrected the other standard pins on the harness. Energized the game, and problem still exists. So I know there is good contact on the edge connectors for all lamps in question and the grounds (on that harness). Looking for any tech support or advice. It is greatly appreciated.

Do they light up all purty if you ground them by hand?

Tried running a jumper wire from (what I am assuming is ground) the stapled bare wire that is attached / soldered to the socket mount “L” (where sockets are secured to wood and is connecting all the bulbs in a chain ) to the main grounding plate (where all grounds are tied together). No change, lights are still very dim (almost on verge looking like LED ghosting).

As stated I assume that stapled bare wire is a ground, however, it does not show a ground on the schematic (shown on original post). All the bulbs tie together, in parallel connection, sort of like a common but unsure where it goes. I can see where signal comes into the bulb from driver board, but it has to complete the circuit to light up, and that is where I am stumped (regarding reading the schematic).

Now I do not have the ground mods done on the power board or sound board. I contacted Shwermmer Elecronics and he stated there was no need to ground the Shwermmer board or Ni-Wumph driver board because there is a ribbon cable used instead of the original Gottlieb harness connector. Again, probably grasping at straws, but could a ground mod correct this? Thanks again for any and all help.

The common bare braid that goes to all the controlled lamp sockets is not ground but rather positive voltage to the lamps. It is the drive transistors that ground the other end of the lamp sockets to complete the circuit.

AWESOME!

Thank you for clearing up that question for me.

With that in mind, could it be a defective Ni-Wumph driver board. I did see two (2) openings on the A3-J3 harness that show “spare” grounds. If I were to install pins and run that directly to ground plate, I am wondering if that would help the problem.

You can also contact Ace at Ni-Wumph, he has been very helpful to me in the past.

Is there an email for Ace or should I go to Ni-Wumph website?

My latest addition I want a frick'n Genie so if someone in the Midwest wants to part with one let me know.

IMG_2576 (resized).JPG

I'll have one fs after I get it shopped out. Mike

Nice. That would be great thanks.

Buy from Mike with confidence if you don't know him he does nice work on what he sells

I just picked up a project Genesis. The game boots and sounds are all working. Cabinet is pretty rough but the playfield is in decent shape. I have quite a bit of repair work to do on switches and solenoids, etc. What is a fair price to pay for something like this? I gave $300 for it. Just wondering if that is an ok deal.

You got a good deal keep us updated on restore

I went through the site.

This is my first system 80. I am looking forward to getting it up and running. The power supply was only able to put out about 4.3 volts so I have a new switching power supply on the way as well as a manual. One thing that is bothering me is that the back glass did not have a lip at the bottom to help raise it up for removal. Is that normal for these?

Should be a trim piece on the bottom of the glass that fits into the wood and that you can lift it up with

That's what I figured but thanks for confirming it for me.

Lots of things can break on a System 1 power supply. They are not that hard to fix but a new replacement is cheap these days. I thinking you still have a power supply problem. I would recommend just replacing it.

You could also do a full rebuild on the power supply board, caps diode(s) and pots. I got my kit from big daddy enterprise.

You know, the GND lines are not tied together on the power supply, so I hope, you do not measure the wrong way (I have seen this very often).

Please measure as follows and tell us the results:

- DMM to DC-Voltage !!!!!!!! (not AC!!!) - set it to a voltage higher than 100VDC, best 200VDC or so
- BLACK cable of your DMM to MINUS (negativ) of the big capacitor C6
- RED cable of your DMM to PLUS (positiv) of the big Capacitor C6

You should measure then something about 90VDC!!! Please tell us your results then.

sys1 powersupply PINSIDE (resized).JPG

Additionally, if you connect the power supply and you still have approximately 69VAC at the connector, there is nothing wrong with your transformer.

Based on what you told us, either your diodes we're installed incorrectly, or you broke a trace.

OK, that is good.

In the schematics there are testpoints for the voltages (DC!!!!), please measure all the voltages from the left to the right and tell us the first point, where you cannot measure a good value.

I could think, that you have a bad TIP31c ...

SYS 1 HV section hardcopy (resized).jpg

Not 3311 but 33 with an Ohm symbol.

If R13 is glowing, you have a dead short on the 60V regulated line. So, either C8 is shorted or one or more of your displays is shorted (Bad UCN6118 or shorted cap)

Unplug all 5 displays and retest voltages after TIP31. You could also have more shorted transistors now since they don't play well with dead shorts down stream. Re-check each with diode check to make sure you don't have any dead shorts across any E-B-C.

In probing, you may have shorted C to E on Q2 sending full 90V down to ICs on the displays. This could cause them to short internally.

33 Ohm 1/2Watt

Could you make a high resolution foto of your board, especially, how your TIP31c is mounted?

Are the Insulators in place for the screw heads on the back of the board that mount the two TO220 transistors?

Ever hear of "less is more"? LOL. Too much Heat Sink compound can be as bad as none at all.

How many ohms do you read across Pins 1 (+60V) and 5 (GND) on A2P3?