Home for the Gottlieb SYS1-SYS80B guys, Yep it's a club :)

(Topic ID: 73213)

Home for the Gottlieb SYS1-SYS80B guys, Yep it's a club :)


By Gerry

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 2,658 posts
  • 361 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 hours ago by gweempose
  • Topic is favorited by 178 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 252 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

Gottlieb SS (resized).jpg
20190111_155911 (resized).jpg
20190221_195604 (resized).jpg
IMG_20190221_174134 (resized).jpg
IMG_20190221_174219 (resized).jpg
20190220_194645 (resized).jpg
IMG_20190208_174927 (resized).jpg
large (resized).jpg
sys1 Trafoboard.JPG EXTRA FUSES (resized).JPG
IMG_20190122_184556763 (resized).jpg
image1 (3) (resized).jpeg
KIMG0721 (resized).jpg
E4ED6DDB-443F-4503-B5C2-BC596B1DDCF1 (resized).jpeg
20190119_074245 (resized).jpg
20190119_074241 (resized).jpg
Sys1Test Fixture (resized).png

There are 2658 posts in this topic. You are on page 40 of 54.
#1951 10 months ago

I had a niwumf or rottendog in circus that used to show whoa bubba in the displays when you tilted. My volcano has original mpu.

#1952 10 months ago

On a sys1, the switch banks. What is on and what is off? I also need to validate the switch bank on the sound board in the cabinet.

Got-Sys1-SLAM-Defeat (resized).JPG

Gottlieb_Early_System80Sound_TopSide (resized).JPG

#1953 10 months ago

Looking for a flipper part for Sinbad. You can see the flipper on the left has a plastic rod sticking through the metal plate. It snapped off on the right flipper. Looks like it’s all part of the linkage that holds the flipper shaft. Anyone know where to find this part? Haven’t been able to track it down yet.

92E730BE-5DBD-4EA7-AC25-17F1E10ECBA0 (resized).jpeg

#1954 10 months ago

526B92F1-D825-4A57-8474-7BC90E0D890F (resized).jpeg

D92020C3-B6A1-4573-81F8-21135BC90645 (resized).jpeg

C86A6956-5F40-419D-A99D-7919BDA3B67D (resized).jpeg

#1955 10 months ago

Cut those off they just add extra drag to the flippers. They're not needed that's why Gottlieb didn't use them on the later games.

#1956 10 months ago
Quoted from shimmydisc:

Anyone know where to find this part? Haven’t been able to track it down yet.

Also when you buy the flipper rebuild kits or parts from Steve @ PBR they don't come with the extended plastic part. I take them off all of my shopped games from this era.

#1957 10 months ago
Quoted from northvibe:

On a sys1, the switch banks. What is on and what is off?

On those dip switches, upper pressed in is On, lower pressed in is Off.

#1958 10 months ago
Quoted from LynnInDenver:

On those dip switches, upper pressed in is On, lower pressed in is Off.

Thank you!

ordo and I can make the dip switches correct tomorrow on roller disco!

#1959 10 months ago

I had posted a separate thread for my Black Hole repair, but figured I'd try here as well. I fixed a dead MPU with a new CPU, a bad RIOT, and a also corrected a couple output 74LS chips with a dead pin. Added NVRAM at 5101. Board passed all of the Pinitech diagnostic adapter's tests as well as the Marco extended test ROM. It boots and mostly plays a game, but I wanted to tackle the main issue I'm seeing. Displays 3 and 4 ("B" bank) have no a-g segments. The vertical 'h' segment works. Displays are good via swap to displays 1/2.

Z21, which controls the a-g segment output to the B bank, has its output pins stuck low despite pulsing input. Both it and Z20 have been socked and replaced with no change (in fact I tried a couple chips just in case. even though they're new and from a known good source). That said the pulsing input on Z21 (and output of Z20) sounds "noisy" as compared to Z18/Z19 with the A display bank. The only thing not in common between Z18 and Z20 is the CK at pin 9. Both of these trace back to RIOT chip U5, and they definitely sound "different" although pulsing (and I'm guessing should not since all 0s should be displayed on the displays after boot). Pin 13 on U5, which controls that CK signal on Z20 pin9 is labeled PA5.

Like I said, that RIOT chip passed all of its diagnostic steps and I've even tried a couple other RIOTs at U5 and all have the same result.

What am I missing here? I'm guessing Z21's output stuck low is because its input, while pulsing, is probably floating somewhere to not really have a high or low??

#1960 10 months ago
Quoted from wxforecaster:

That said the pulsing input on Z21 (and output of Z20) sounds "noisy" as compared to Z18/Z19 with the A display bank.

I got fooled once with something similar. I thought a signal was toggling with my logic probe but it actually wasn't. Compared to other pins the bad pins made the logic probe beep but only one of the hi lo leds were flickering so it looked and sounded like it was toggling. For full toggling both of the hi and lo leds should go on and off clearly . Mine are red and green arrow leds for hi and lo. Only the red one was flickering on and off hi... the green one wasn't clearly on when the red was off. Fooled me and I replaced the next chip unnecessarily.

#1961 10 months ago
Quoted from srcdube:

I got fooled once with something similar. I thought a signal was toggling with my logic probe but it actually wasn't. Compared to other pins the bad pins made the logic probe beep but only one of the hi lo leds were flickering so it looked and sounded like it was toggling. For full toggling both of the hi and lo leds should go on and off clearly . Mine are red and green arrow leds for hi and lo. Only the red one was flickering on and off hi... the green one wasn't clearly on when the red was off. Fooled me and I replaced the next chip unnecessarily.

I know what you mean. I have a decent Elenco which has red/green lights for HI/LO but also a separate LED for pulse. I do not have an oscilloscope but I can just tell that something isn't right with the U5/13 -> Z20/9 clock pin signal given the audible sound on the logic probe (even though it's pulsing).

Everything else on Z20 is tied with Z18 back to Z16, so I know it's not that since the A displays work fine.

What's I'm trying to understand is how U5 tests OK, and yet if PA5 (U5/13 = Z20/9) is bad, where else is that signal coming from. Attaching schematic...

20180402_093031 (resized).jpg

#1962 10 months ago
Quoted from wxforecaster:

Everything else on Z20 is tied with Z18 back to Z16, so I know it's not that since the A displays work fine.
What's I'm trying to understand is how U5 tests OK, and yet if PA5 (U5/13 = Z20/9) is bad, where else is that signal coming from. Attaching schematic...

Are you indicating you don’t have segments a and g... or none of the segments?

Some things you could check.
Shorts between pins... maybe some fat solder joints?
Are any of the ABCD signals tied together?
Are the ABCD signals toggling fully as discussed in prior post... leds toggle both red and green?
Check the other static pins that should be tied off to power or ground especially across top of z21 on schematic (3,4,5,16)
Capacitor c27 compared to c26 and c28.
Check the non-inverted signals of Q1-Q4bon z20. what are they doing compared to the inverted ones?

#1963 10 months ago

There is no explanation other than the 74LS48 chips I purchased from Marco are either counterfeit or defective.

1.) There is no short between any of the pins. The 4 input pins to Z20 are tied to the 4 input pins of Z18.
2.) All of the pins tied to Vcc on Z20/Z21 are reading 4.99V and all the ground pins are 0V.
3.) Continuity checks pass on all pins of both Z20/Z21 with no connectivity anywhere else on the board.
4.) Z21's A,B,C,D input signals are pulsing. There should be no circumstance under which Z21 3,4,5,16 are hi, 8 is lo, and the inputs are pulsing and that the outputs are stuck low.
5.) Z20s input and flopped output signals appear "correct" in comparison to Z18 and Z22.
6.) Voltage across C27 is 4.99V (as is C26 and C28), and the powered pins are reading correctly.

I'm going to use an Arduino later today to power the 74LS48 chips on a breadboard and pass it the correct decoder signals to output the a-g segments to prove my case. Marco is looking into the chips right now and comparing it to their stock. They are not known for electronics parts, but since they had them stocked along with a bunch of other pinball repair stuff I needed, I went with them.

#1964 10 months ago

I put a new tone board in my pinball pool, the old one did not work at all. It makes one tone correctly and the other two tones sound more like a click and a screech. I swapped in a different power supply, driver board and cpu and still makes the same sounds. The connector does not look like it needs to be repinned. Does this sound like an issue with the board even though its new? Anybody else ever have this problem?

#1965 10 months ago
Quoted from Alan_L:

Here's where I am: the game will boot and start a game but none of the switches and solenoids work. The displays at power up either show one zero in the far right position at Player 1, Player 3 and the Status display, or, on every other power up they show all zeroes with strobing. In either case they come on right away, no four second delay

How it turned out:

Thanks to ForceFlow's suggestion. I replaced U7 and the CPU chip, didn't have another 7402 for U8. No change. Finally got another 7402, socketed and replaced U8: problem gone! Jacks to Open will be at Allentown, no pics or price yet.

#1966 10 months ago

Has anyone ever converted a sys1 to sys 80?
Specifically Hulk#500 comes to mind.
I picked up a Hulk that is not working and was considering a complete swap over. Any thoughts?
-Mike

#1967 10 months ago
Quoted from wxforecaster:

4.) Z21's A,B,C,D input signals are pulsing. There should be no circumstance under which Z21 3,4,5,16 are hi, 8 is lo, and the inputs are pulsing and that the outputs are stuck low.

Try removing connectors at each end of the harness and see if Z21 outputs are still stuck low. Rules out connector and harness problems.

Is Z21 the correct chip... it’s not a ´variant’ or ´this chip should also work’?

#1968 10 months ago
Quoted from srcdube:

Try removing connectors at each end of the harness and see if Z21 outputs are still stuck low. Rules out connector and harness problems.
Is Z21 the correct chip... it’s not a ´variant’ or ´this chip should also work’?

Yes, 74LS48 is an appropriate chip here. The stuck low pins for the Z21 a-g output pins also occurs on the bench, so I know it's not a connector or harness. This wouldn't make any sense anyways since the display connector is a one-way street.

Marco is sending me several more from a different lot today. In the meantime, since the 7 BCD decoder truth table is pretty straight forward, I'm going to use an Arduino and a breadboard to build a simple test circuit for this chip out of the game. If the output pins are still stuck low, then we know the chips are bogus.

Thanks for your help.

#1969 10 months ago
Quoted from wxforecaster:

f the output pins are still stuck low, then we know the chips are bogus

Be sure to let us know... enquiring minds want to know.

I used to work in a semiconductor company and “things happen”. Branding happens at end of assembly so if the lot got mixed up they could be branded as one chip but have something else inside. Die oriented incorrectly inside, wirebonding error... All stuff that should have been caught at some kind of sample testing. Were these NOS or used? Are they even manufactured anymore? Branding may have a date buried in the lot number.

Curious now.

#1970 10 months ago

Yep, bogus chips. Was fun writing the code to test this though! Marco is sending me new chips from another source.

20180403_173313 (resized).jpg

#1971 10 months ago

I wonder how many 74LS48 chips went out and the poor bastard gave up on the board.

#1972 10 months ago

Are the lot numbers printed on the chips? I hope if they are the Op post them so others can check their own.

#1973 10 months ago
Quoted from RWH:

Are the lot numbers printed on the chips? I hope if they are the Op post them so others can check their own.

Yeh it has a Texas Instruments logo, followed by 45H12LD and then E4 with a line under those two characters.
Next line is SN74LS48N.

PinballAir, actually this was a rogue issue. When I bought it the game wouldn't boot, due to a failed CPU and 1 RIOT chip. No corrosion issues, but I did the NVRAM mod anyways. In testing all of the 74LS series chips on the board, I found 3 with dead pins (one lamp, one switch, and then Z21 had one bad display pin). So I socketed and replaced those 3, and despite this chip passing the diode test, I still had no displays, which led me down the path above to the found discovery of the replacement 7448 chips I bought from Marco were junk. Can a huge outfit like them test every chip? Heck no. Would I have bought these from Ed @ G-P-E? Absolutely, but he's been out for a while. Marco said they have no more from this lot, and a few replacements are in route, free of charge. Can't ask for better customer service. Hopefully they test good and issue resolved.

#1974 10 months ago

I think marco is a great resource.
I also deal with ed at gpe, also a reliable source for parts and advice.
I do not have the skills to test chips. I often can look at a drawing and figure out what I THINK is wrong. Then I purchase chips. I socket and install. If I get the same results I generally assume I have changed the wrong chip. So by this method , the board might become unrepairable because I cannot solve the problem .
Recent case on gottlieb volcano I was helped by others in the hobby and solved the problem . I was close but I changed the wrong side of of the circuit. I changed the strobe and not the return.

#1975 10 months ago

So good news. First, MAJOR MAJOR kudos to Steve at Marco who fast-shipped me replacement chips, no questions asked. Both of them tested good in my Arduino rig above, slapped them in the game, and I have working displays! Can't believe how long I spent down an issue stemming from replaced a bad original chip with 2 NEW bad (counterfeit?) chips.

Now onto the rest of the game. A couple bulbs out but I think the rest of this should hopefully go smoothly.

Evan

#1976 10 months ago

Got our Solar Ride sorted out... turned out that one of the 7405 switch matrix chips had been slowly succumbing to corrosion damage it suffered from the original battery leak.

It finally got to where hitting a switch on the 1 column would fire all the switches in the row, from 0 to 5, in sequence at one a second, any row, including the coin door switches, which played havoc with using the diagnostics (tilt, coin 1, coin 2, START, when pressing the add a coin button tied to coin 1).

When I pulled the chip, three of the pins stayed behind in the board. I think they were already broken from the chip, and it only was working because there was an intermittent connection that finally failed when I was installing the NVRAM. Naturally, I installed a socket.

It's been absolutely rock solid since replacing the chip. I've probably gained us at least six months before we need to actually get a new MPU; the only issue is gibberish (every character is a lower case "c" in the memory) for a minute or so on power up until we start a game, then the NVRAM comes back in and shows things correctly like the actual high score and credits.

#1977 10 months ago

I swear this Black Hole is going to be the death of me. Now that I have (hopefully?) resolved the display issue, I replaced some bad lamps (actually LED'd all of the inserts) and fired up a few games.

Immediately I'm noticed the following behavior as soon as a ball hits the shooter lane:
1.) I'm getting a ton of 10 point registers on the LOWER playfield display anytime a coil fires (flippers, ball into the shooter lane, etc.). It seemed that when I lifted the upper playfield into the vertical position that this stopped (need to do more testing). I looked at all of the switches on the lower PF and none of them appear closed or within vibration distance of closed.
2.) The tilt tilt tilt tilt tilt... sound track plays repeatedly when the points are registering, along with other audio. However the game doesn't actually tilt? (flippers flip, points registered, etc.). This is by far the oddest behavior!
3.) F22 fuse blows on the center top pop-bumper on the lower playfield.

#1978 10 months ago
Quoted from wxforecaster:

I swear this Black Hole is going to be the death of me.

Black Hole is the most correctly named machine in pinball.

#1979 10 months ago
Quoted from Grizlyrig:

Has anyone ever converted a sys1 to sys 80?
Specifically Hulk#500 comes to mind.
I picked up a Hulk that is not working and was considering a complete swap over. Any thoughts?
-Mike

You would need to completely rewire it, and find somone who made a copy of the game and sound ROMs.

It would be far easier just to throw some new pascal or ni-wumpf boards at it, like most people do on system 1 games.

#1980 10 months ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

You would need to completely rewire it, and find somone who made a copy of the game and sound ROMs.

It would be far easier just to throw some new pascal or ni-wumpf boards at it, like most people do on system 1 games.

forceflow I don't mind converting it just to be unique, it would be a matter of roms and maybe if someone had a schematic of Hulk#500 that I could go off of. Also thought of your Hulk at Pintastic running the Pascal which is what got me wanting a Hulk so bad. Pascal would indeed be the easiest way but I do want to explore the switch over to system 80 if at all possible.
-Mike

#1981 10 months ago
Quoted from Grizlyrig:

forceflow I don't mind converting it just to be unique, it would be a matter of roms and maybe if someone had a schematic of Hulk#500 that I could go off of. Also thought of your Hulk at Pintastic running the Pascal which is what got me wanting a Hulk so bad. Pascal would indeed be the easiest way but I do want to explore the switch over to system 80 if at all possible.
-Mike

Yeah, it was running a Pascal board. It has a few extra features (attract mode & skill shots, for instance) that the Ni-Wumpf doesn't have.

TNT Amusements had a system 80 Hulk and made a video of it a few years ago, but sadly, it looks like the video has since been removed. Maybe Todd has some info on it?

#1982 10 months ago

Doesn't hurt to ask and anyone else that has solid info on converting sys1 to sys80 please feel free to chime in.
-Mike

#1983 10 months ago

I did some searching, and it does look like former owners have said that there is a manual and schematics for the game. I wasn't sure, since it was a prototype.

#1984 10 months ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

Yeah, it was running a Pascal board. It has a few extra features (attract mode & skill shots, for instance) that the Ni-Wumpf doesn't have.
TNT Amusements had a system 80 Hulk and made a video of it a few years ago, but sadly, it looks like the video has since been removed. Maybe Todd has some info on it?

I sold that machine to the late Steve Charland in October 1999 for $1199. I do not recall making a video on this machine that I can remember...its possible I did...maybe Tammy will find it buried on my home movies. However, I DO refer to that machine in my Hulk video here, which is the standard version.

#1985 10 months ago
Quoted from toddtuckey:

I sold that machine to the late Steve Charland in October 1999 for $1199. I do not recall making a video on this machine that I can remember...its possible I did...maybe Tammy will find it buried on my home movies. However, I DO refer to that machine in my Hulk video here, which is the standard version.

Hmm...I initially thought a video appeared around 2014-2015. I also thought I might have posted the link in a thread at some point, but after some digging, I wasn't able to spot it. So, maybe I'm confusing it with your Jacks to Open prototype video--I'm not sure now.

However, I did find in one of your hulk videos that you did detail some of the things about the hulk system 80 machines, so maybe that was what I was remembering:

#1986 10 months ago

that's cool on the drop target memory, I'll have to remember that.

#1987 10 months ago

HI all I am new to this club as I am new to owning a Sys 1 Genie. I am having 2 main problems. So first off when I turn the game on sometimes it does now fully turn off and then after a few off and ons it will fully come on. My second and most frustrating problem is my damn drop targets. When I have the 2A fuse under the playfield in, The drops will not come up, sometimes the front 4 will but then the fuse blows. If I manually put them up and turn the game on then knock them down, the score perfectly but will not come back up. Now I do not know how bad of an idea this was but I was told that SOMETIMES you can put a 2.5A or even a 3A. I put a 2.5A in and all the drops came up and the back ones worked almost perfectly but the front 4 were locked up so the coil was locked I am assuming. Any help would be fantastic and thanks in advance. By the way I suck at reading the switch matrix, since I am relatively new but have been doing a ton of research and watch videos etc. These are pretty much the only 2 things I have left to have the game working 100% (I did do the ground mods on all 3 boards)

#1988 10 months ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

I did some searching, and it does look like former owners have said that there is a manual and schematics for the game. I wasn't sure, since it was a prototype.

I have a S80 Hulk (confirmed by Steve C before he passed away). The manual I got with it appears to be one from a S1. If someone has a S80 schematic, I wouldn't mind getting a copy as I'm having some issues with it.

Quoted from ForceFlow:

You would need to completely rewire it

Agreed as i have a spare S1 pf. That one has a 3x3 plug. S80 has a 3x4 or 4x4 (can't remember, just know i couldn't swap them). I'm guessing the extra wires are for the drop target memory coils. I think there are other difference on the bottom board as well (extra jumpers, or something like that).

#1989 10 months ago
Quoted from pinwhoo:

someone has a S80 schematic, I wouldn't mind getting a copy as I'm having some issues with it.

Internet pinball database Amazing SpiderMan has its S80 manual and schematic... I assume it’s mostly the same?

#1990 10 months ago

Unless I missed something, the 'English Manual (Availability limited by copyright)' is just a link to this 'http://ipdb.org/faq.html#faq17'. Which basically means I need to contact PBR and see if they have one.

#1991 10 months ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

Hmm...I initially thought a video appeared around 2014-2015. I also thought I might have posted the link in a thread at some point, but after some digging, I wasn't able to spot it. So, maybe I'm confusing it with your Jacks to Open prototype video--I'm not sure now.
» YouTube video
However, I did find in one of your hulk videos that you did detail some of the things about the hulk system 80 machines, so maybe that was what I was remembering:
» YouTube video

We have one of the proto jacks to open at the office. Not the funnest machine, but its neat.

#1992 10 months ago
Quoted from PhillyBilly:

HI all I am new to this club as I am new to owning a Sys 1 Genie. I am having 2 main problems. So first off when I turn the game on sometimes it does now fully turn off and then after a few off and ons it will fully come on. My second and most frustrating problem is my damn drop targets. When I have the 2A fuse under the playfield in, The drops will not come up, sometimes the front 4 will but then the fuse blows. If I manually put them up and turn the game on then knock them down, the score perfectly but will not come back up. Now I do not know how bad of an idea this was but I was told that SOMETIMES you can put a 2.5A or even a 3A. I put a 2.5A in and all the drops came up and the back ones worked almost perfectly but the front 4 were locked up so the coil was locked I am assuming. Any help would be fantastic and thanks in advance. By the way I suck at reading the switch matrix, since I am relatively new but have been doing a ton of research and watch videos etc. These are pretty much the only 2 things I have left to have the game working 100% (I did do the ground mods on all 3 boards)

I would start with replacing the diode on the coil that is locking. I would not over fuse it, that is just asking for more problems.

#1993 10 months ago

Hi All,

I have become the proud owner of a Charlie's Angels, It hasn't been looked after to well but the lady owner has had it from new. I even have the bill of sale with the paper work.

Just started working on her, upgrading the caps and so on on the power supply board and so on.

I have read through this thread and seen that German-Pinball said about a fuse mod to do for the small transformer, he put up a grafic on page 24 on where and what fuses to use. (This is the pic of the fuse mod he put up)

So what I would like to know please is does anybody know what the 2 fuses are rated at on the return from the transformer are. These are a +8v and a +4v.

I live in France so mains power is 210-240v 50herzts if this makes a difference.

Thank you for any help on this.

small transformer fuse mod (resized).jpg

#1994 10 months ago
Quoted from pinwhoo:

Unless I missed something, the 'English Manual (Availability limited by copyright)' is just a link to this 'http://ipdb.org/faq.html#faq17'. Which basically means I need to contact PBR and see if they have one.

Pm me. Thought it was open. Must have been another machine .

#1995 10 months ago

Has anyone had any power issues with their system 1? Mine will turn on and fully play but it sometimes takes 3-5 On/Off switch button presses.

#1996 10 months ago
Quoted from PhillyBilly:

Has anyone had any power issues with their system 1? Mine will turn on and fully play but it sometimes takes 3-5 On/Off switch button presses.

I would check the switch.

However when this happens you may want to check power in the cabinet at the transformers and see if they are getting power. Do you get any lights or nothing when it doesn’t boot?

On another note. If a sys1 cpu board has issues, is it just recommended to buy a replacement? I don’t see anyone that repairs them, and Clive said to just replace, but ~$200, mmm Worth trying to fix myself?

#1997 10 months ago
Quoted from northvibe:

I would check the switch.
However when this happens you may want to check power in the cabinet at the transformers and see if they are getting power. Do you get any lights or nothing when it doesn’t boot?
On another note. If a sys1 cpu board has issues, is it just recommended to buy a replacement? I don’t see anyone that repairs them, and Clive said to just replace, but ~$200, mmm Worth trying to fix myself?

I do get some lights and back glass lights to come on when it doesn’t boot fully. It’s never fully dead when I turn it on

#1998 10 months ago
Quoted from PhillyBilly:

I do get some lights and back glass lights to come on when it doesn’t boot fully. It’s never fully dead when I turn it on

http://www.pinrepair.com/sys1/index.htm

Check out testing the power train in that site. That’s how I did the roller disco. Could be the power board needs a rebuild or another issue with the smal transformer etc but this will help you troubleshoot it.

#1999 10 months ago

hello everyone. i could really use some help. i have a very neglected spring break that im trying to nurse back to health. when i first got it it had a lot of hacks and mods done to the transformer and rectifiers in the bottom cabinet. over the last few weeks i have been undoing and documenting all the hacks. after putting everything right (to the best of my knowledge/following scematics to the best of my ability) i felt comfortable powering it on. when i did i got GI lights to come on and some gibberish on the displays. i have been going back througe the bottom board and i found the rectifier that supplies voltage to the power board A2 to be bad. i ordered some new BRs and in the mean time i decided to move one of the others BRs to that position and resoulder the leads. i still dont get any bootup. this brings me to my question. i started testing all the voltages starting with the wall socket. tested at the line filter, at all the appropriate tabs on the transformer that were accessable from the topside. everything AC volts checks out. when testing anything DC volts coming off the BRs or at the large plug coming from the transformer i get a few hundered mVDC and then the longer i hold my leads on there it slowly goes down and down. im testing red lead on the the wire with the DC volts and my black lead on the ground strap or on the area were all the grounds are tied together on the side of the transformer. im sure im doing something wrong please let me know.

hack5 (resized).jpg
hack4 (resized).jpg
hack3 (resized).jpg
hack2 (resized).jpg
hack (resized).jpg

#2000 10 months ago

bump for the evening crowd.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 25.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Pinball Photos
$ 19.95
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Super Skill Shot Shop
$ 269.00
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Lindenhurst, NY
$ 76.95
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Super Skill Shot Shop
€ 55.00
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Houston, TEXAS
1,650 (Firm)
Machine - For Sale
Peabody, MA
$ 20.00
Electronics
Yorktown Parts and Equip
€ 50.00
Boards
FLIPPROJETS
$ 319.00
From: $ 20.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
From: $ 20.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Brighton, MI
$ 66.95
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Super Skill Shot Shop
From: $ 40.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
From: $ 39.95
€ 45.00
Boards
FLIPPROJETS
$ 69.95
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Super Skill Shot Shop
€ 40.00
Boards
FLIPPROJETS
$ 329.00
$ 1,099.00
Flipper Parts
Mircoplayfields
There are 2658 posts in this topic. You are on page 40 of 54.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside