Home for the Gottlieb SYS1-SYS80B guys, Yep it's a club :)


By Gerry

4 years ago


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  • Latest reply 1 day ago by ForceFlow
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There are 1861 posts in topic. You are on page 38 of 38.
#1851 8 days ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

Just for the record, it costs about $15 in parts to rebuild a system 1 power supply. However, because of the odd design, it does take some time to work on. There is a rebuild guide on pinwiki that I've linked to many times.

I bought the rebuild kit from BDE, so it was ~$40. I’ll test the pin outs again but I swear the j3 wasn’t outputting the 40 and 60vac, even after the rebuild, hence why I started going back to the transformer.

#1852 8 days ago

If you have 73VAC at the bottom connector of regulator board with connector plugged in, your transformer is good.

#1853 7 days ago

Stayed home sick today. See if I can get in tomorrow

#1854 6 days ago

System 80a, Jacks to Open.

There is a wire, purple/purple/purple (777), that runs from the 4 digit Status display, 1A5J1-2, to the MPU A1J3-16. But instead of stopping at that connector it goes through the IDC connector for about 5 inches and is broken off. I can't for the life of me figure out where it is supposed to go by either searching for the other end or by looking at the schematic.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Al

#1855 5 days ago
Quoted from Alan_L:

System 80a, Jacks to Open.
There is a wire, purple/purple/purple (777), that runs from the 4 digit Status display, 1A5J1-2, to the MPU A1J3-16. But instead of stopping at that connector it goes through the IDC connector for about 5 inches and is broken off. I can't for the life of me figure out where it is supposed to go by either searching for the other end or by looking at the schematic.
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Al

I don't know if this is your case or not... I had found a similar wire on my bro-in-law's Caveman. (Extended wire past an A1 IDC connector.) I believe in our case the wire was previously connected up at the MPU reset connection (locate the reset board and follow its harness back to the MPU). Previous owner had replaced the wire harness between the reset board and the MPU and must have pulled wire out of the original IDC/socket at the MPU location... I still have not connected it up.

#1856 5 days ago

Thanks for the reply, REGNE. I'll check when I get home.

Go Huskers!

Alan

#1857 5 days ago

Just got home. That wire does go to the reset board: A24J1-3.

Here's where I am: the game will boot and start a game but none of the switches and solenoids work. The displays at power up either show one zero in the far right position at Player 1, Player 3 and the Status display, or, on every other power up they show all zeroes with strobing. In either case they come on right away, no four second delay.

Is it true that System 80a games will not activate switches and solenoids if the displays are not functioning properly?

I may be looking at connector issues. Which connector should I look at first?

#1858 4 days ago
Quoted from Alan_L:

That wire does go to the reset board: A24J1-3.

Glad to hear I was of help.

Quoted from Alan_L:

Go Huskers!

Huskers are my home team. However, I graduated from Kansas State so I tend to root for them more on game day.

Quoted from Alan_L:

The displays at power up either show one zero in the far right position at Player 1, Player 3 and the Status display, or, on every other power up they show all zeroes with strobing. In either case they come on right away, no four second delay.

All fuses are good?
All proper voltages coming from the A2 power supply? (There are test points.)

Sounds like its possibly in slam mode. I have used an alligator clipped lead to jumper the slam switch on the coin door...to temporarily bypass it during diagnosis. If that's the issue clean the switch and make sure there is continuity. My @Touchdown boots quickly. Does not take 4 seconds, but it then begins to toggle between zeros and high score.

Oh...and yes! Your edge connections could definitely be to blame. Clean board edge with pink eraser, Re-pin connectors, etc. Finally your MPU may be acting wonky. (crusty sockets, chip legs, etc. due to battery corrosion)

Can you toggle through test using the button on the coin door?

#1859 4 days ago

All fuses removed and checked.

All voltages at A2 are correct with J2 and J3 (displays) connectors not attached. As I add the displays one at a time, the 60 and 42 volt test points drop a few volts with every added display. I have 66.9 vdc at TP1 (should be 62 vdc) and 49.2 at TP2 (should be 42 vdc) without J2 & J3 hooked up. With both connectors attached and all display connectors attached, I have 52.9 VDC at YP1 and 35.0 vdc at TP2. Each display added drags down the voltage. Is this correct or caused by corrosion on the pins, or something else?

I have performed the Slam Switch mod: put a solder bridge between the two traces just to the right of Z26, and cut the wire into the A1J5-10 connector.

No alkaline damage to the MPU, cleaned all the fingers with the pink eraser.

At power up, with just a single zero in the Player 1 & 3 and Status displays, the Test button does nothing. But when it powers up with all zeroes and strobing, the Test button will take me through the tests.

Well then, go Wildcats. As a Ravens fan, I like any team with purple.

#1861 4 days ago
Quoted from CactusJack:

If you have 73VAC at the bottom connector of regulator board with connector plugged in, your transformer is good.

Roller Disco Update:

Okay, so finally got into the office and ran through some checks:
Rottendog driverboard
Rebuilt Power board
Stock CPU board
Ground lines on each board to the ground plane of the backbox are done

EMI line filter - 120VAC

A2J1 not plugged into board
p1 - 11.7
p2 - 11.7
p3 - GND
p4 - 14.2
p5 - 14.2
p6 and p7 would only show vac when I put red/black leads ac into each which showed ~73vac

Plugged A2J1 into power board and tested A2J2 and J3 (the J2 and J3 plugs were not plugged in)

J2
p1 - 5.1
p2 - 5.1
p6 - -12.15

J3
P1 - 60v
p3 - 42
p7 - 3.7-3.8
p8 - 8

I plugged J2 in, and tested voltage at the 2 capacitors next to the J1 plug on the cpu board
C16 had 5v. C17 had 12v, not sure why i didn't get -12, the cap shows the negative on the lower side.

I then plugged in J3 to the power board and tested voltage at the plug with the displays running
I got ~41-52v during 60v displays changing and 31-38v when the 42v display changed. I did each display individually as well and they were of course much brighter by themselves.

So looks like the power is good, ish? See any issue with the display line voltage? seems to drop a lot.

Game booted but lots of switch issues as many things didn't register, still have to troubleshoot of course but now that the power is up I can move forward.

#1862 4 days ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#Game_Displays_a_single_0_or_1_on_Displays

Definitely a possibility. Z7 & Z8 are cheap, but U1 is $21.75 at PBR, but it is a socketed chip.

I'm concerned that corrosion on the connector pins may be my problem. I hate like hell to re-pin every connector but I want this thing to work right.

Just use the shotgun method on those three chips or try re-pinning the connectors that affect the displays?

#1863 4 days ago
Quoted from Alan_L:

Definitely a possibility. Z7 & Z8 are cheap, but U1 is $21.75 at PBR, but it is a socketed chip.
I'm concerned that corrosion on the connector pins may be my problem. I hate like hell to re-pin every connector but I want this thing to work right.
Just use the shotgun method on those three chips or try re-pinning the connectors that affect the displays?

That U1 CPU chip is definitely cheaper elsewhere. Probably around $6-$8. Jameco or mouser probably has them in stock.

If you suspected battery damage, use a magnifying glass to check out the connector pins, or even extract one that might look like it has an issue. For the most part, I don't generally need to repin system 80 connectors, unlike on system 1 games. If the pins are smooth and free of alkaline, they're probably fine.

Even though the U1 chip is the most expensive, I would suspect that one over Z7 and Z8. From what I've seen, it's a shorted lane change switch on the flipper mech that seems to kill that chip.

#1864 4 days ago

Jameco has them for about $6.00. Refurbished, that's OK, isn't it?

#1865 4 days ago
Quoted from Alan_L:

Definitely a possibility. Z7 & Z8 are cheap

This is a good check for MPU TTL chips. I’ve found many bad chips with this simple diode check method.

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_an_integrated_circuit

My brief experience has led to quite a few 7404 and 74ls04... seem to be weak chips. Z7 is a 74ls04. Can’t hurt to check all the other chips on the board as well.

As far as the power drain. I think you are ok for now. At least look over the power supply for cold solder. You may need to rebuild it in the near future due to old weak components.

#1866 1 day ago

what is a fair price for a spring break in good shape, working but needs to be shopped, boards in good shape no damage. location east coast

#1867 1 day ago
Quoted from boilerman:

what is a fair price for a spring break in good shape, working but needs to be shopped, boards in good shape no damage. location east coast

One went for $600 shopped at the York show in September here in PA.

#1868 1 day ago
Quoted from Antennaejim:

One went for $600 shopped at the York show in September here in PA.

thanks

#1869 1 day ago
Quoted from Alan_L:

Jameco has them for about $6.00. Refurbished, that's OK, isn't it?

Yeah, it should be ok. They were probably recycled from old electronics.

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