Wanting to let you all know i posted my latest video on YouTube. Its a how-to rebuild Gottlieb System 80 Pop Bumper Driver Boards PBDB. i hope this helps anyone who is planing this rebuild. Please let me know what you think. subscribe if you like, post a comment or a suggestion and share if you know anyone who could benefit from this video.

Thanks
Brandon
Tilt Tech Pinball

Fixed..come to find out the leaf switch for the spoon was touching..i bent the bottom arm slightly back with my leaf switch took and now the game is 100% working!

Just gotta clean it up, led it it up and decide what to do with it...sell it?...try putting it on location?...or trade it...id be up to trade it for a flash gordon if anyone has a working one.

picked this up, has a really sweet original cab

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HOW MUCH YOU THINK YOU'RE GOING TO WANT FOR IT WITHOUT "LED UP" ?,AND WOULD YOU SHIP?

Looking for some help on where to connect this wire. Was loose when I got it. Gonna replace the orange cap this weekend and want to wire this up properly. I believe it is on 38v line on schematic. Looks like it connects to a bridge rectifier. The ground is connected so should I attach on the bridge rectifier the ground is hooked to? If so what leg do I connect to? Thanks

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I have an Amazing Spiderman. Purchased from an arcade in Sault St. Marie, Ontario back in 2002(ish). Love it... playfield is near mint with just some wear around the popouts at the top. Backglass was touched up a bit by the dealer before I got it, and then clearcoated... very nice. I've only had one incident with it where a path through the powerboard got fried, but I was able to fix it. Aside from that, very little maintenance except for changing light bulbs and waxing the playfield.

On mine, it connects to the back left diode bridge (as seen from the coin door, 38 V non-controlled solenoids). So the loose wire goes on the diode bridge terminal which should already have an Orange-Blue-Blue wire, on the opposite corner from the green ground wire. There may be a raised bump, a rotated terminal, or a plus mark next to the positive terminal.

Thanks Biffbar will check it tonight and see if my wiring matches. Game works, but I wonder now if this being disconnected causes non controlled solenoids (flippers, up kicker) to be weak.

Big caps like that are to help control spikes on the power lines on powerup and powerdown or if you get a surge in your house voltage. As the transformers magnetic field collapses it can cause a voltage spike, so they put the capacitor to control it, and to slowly power off as it discharges. Surprised it's been removed, since it is a level of protection and stabilizes your voltage. If it didn't just break off, it may have been disconnected if there was a short in it as it would essentially short out your powersupply. Check that there's no short before you connect it up again.

My spiderman board looks a little different than the board in your picture. I will try to take a look this evening and see what my big blue cap is connected to.

The job was much easier than I thought. Great tool.

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I checked my big blue cap... it is a system 80 and looks very different from yours... assume yours is system1? Anyway, my cap is on the + line (DC) of my 12V supply diode bridge (which is to my solenoids). So... contrary to what I said yesterday, the cap is after it's been converted to DC, and I'd assume it's to give an extra whack of current when solenoids are engaged so your voltage doesn't collapse.

Where did you buy the crimper from?

System 1 games don't have any caps on the transformer panel. It's system 80.

Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OMM4YUY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_eH18dCbJgLP38

Yes, mine is Sys 80 it is Haunted House. I need to check the readings on non controlled bridge rectifier for short. The ground connection was loose too when I looked further. Then I will fix the ground and solder to the place Hawknole and other suggested. Will let ya'll know if I succeed or fail.

Any tips for what would cause weak slingshot on a System 1? They range from barely enough to push the ball away to barely enough to sling drain you.

Is the correct coil installed? Is the correct sized rubber installed? Are the slingshot switches adjusted correctly? Does it have a clean coil sleeve? If you move the arm manually, does the plunger glide through the coil smoothly and easily?

Closing up the switches made all the difference. Thanks!

Hello fellow club members, I need some advice on an issue I'm having with my Haunted House, and my post here comes in two parts. Pics below are of the connectors in question, and I thank anyone who can offer any insight!

1.) My HH's music will randomly cut out and leave the sound efx, play sounds at wrong times, or come out garbled and distorted. Shortly after this started, all my displays go blank and haven't come back since. Everything else works fine.

I re-pinned the sound board edge connector and plan to do the other end (A12-P3 to A12-J3 connectors). All fuses are checked and I reseated every connector I could in the game. I'm also running the Pascal PI-80 board.

But, in researching this, I found information saying there is a light-box connector (A12-J4 to A12-P4) 3 VAC and the 5 VAC lines needed for the displays. When this connector is loose or unplugged, the game plays, but all displays are blank with incorrect sounds upon switch closures. Which is exactly my issue.

Has anyone else experienced this, or back up the theory that this connector could be responsible?

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2.) The second question is regarding these four connectors and the best place to buy them. Steve at PBR, which is my normal go-to, doesn't have the 9pin and 15pin housings in stock. I tried contacting Docent to see if they have them, but they couldn't be reached. Great Plains has these Mate-N-Lock sets, but I'm not sure if these are exactly what I need for to replace system 80 connectors.

http://www.docentelectronics.com/httpdocs/AmusementGames/Pinball/Gottlieb/system%2080.htm
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=2

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You can reuse the housings. You will need the appropriate pin removal tool. Pop out the old pin, cut it off, strip the wire, crimp on the new pin, and insert it back into the housing.

Mate-n-Lok is different and incompatible with molex. They are used on game plan and allied leisure games.

Thought of that with Steve, but for some reason didn't act on it and will just go that route. I'll order the tool and more pins off PBR today.

Do you happen to know anything about that connector i'm referencing and the problems that could come from it being unplugged, loose, or bad?

Glad I asked about the Mate N Locks!

I can't say I've heard of that issue before.

But, I'd start by going through some of the usual suspects--clean the edge connectors with a pink rubber eraser, check for cracked solder joints on the PCBs. Also check to make sure the wires are all in the correct positions in the connectors--it's possible a previous owner inadvertently put pins in the wrong places.

I am working on a volcano.
The uncontrolled solenoids(38v) are too strong. I have measured 38.v at bridge and at coils. The slings shoot at each other and flatten the switch in the opposite one. I am bending the wire forms with the flippers. All balls of the pops are air balls.
The capacitor in the bridge circuit does what? Is it there to store enough power to give coils extra push. At 4000 mfd it cannot be there to simply level off voltage.
I have added double rubbers to slow the ball down.
Is the cap necessary?

A filter capacitor makes sure there is no ripple in the voltage--it doesn't affect the voltage itself too much. From what I remember, there is a 6800uf 25v filter cap on the 12v circuit, not the 24v circuit. If there is a 4000uf cap on the 12v circuit, then the value of that cap is too low.

Test and possibly replace the bridge rectifier for the 24v circuit. It might not be operating correctly.

A few possibilities:
1) The diodes on the power supply could have shorted causing the small transformer to heat up and act as a fuse.
2) Things may be wired incorrectly on the small transformer. Be sure to check your work and the wiring colors on the schematics.
3) The plug at the bottom of the power supply might flipped the wrong way: http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_1#The_Upside_Down_A2J1_Power_Supply_Connection

If "all the fuses are good" means the new ones you added, if the fuses aren't blowing then there's no current going through them... unless they are the slowest slow blow ever.

Sort of implies the short is before the fuse unfortunately. Smoke doesn't come from the lug... it's either coming from the winding behind the paper or the wire insulation. In the photo the wire from pin 8 looks really tight to the metal frame... is the insulation cut so that it's shorting to the frame? Is the lug bent and touching the frame or another wire in any way?

desolder the wire from the lug and check if the transformer still heats up. If it does with absolutely nothing connected to the lug then it's likely the winding shorted out in side ... insulation on the coil wires breaks down and they short internally.

Unscrew the large bolts, and the whole transformer panel can be removed from the cabinet.

Hey everyone. I have a Genie with switch issues. There are switches scattered all over the playfield that don’t register.

Game has all new boards except the driver board, new interconnect harness, and I have looked over all switches that are suspect, for continuity and tested all the diodes on the diode boards and they tested okay (pretty sure I tested them correctly haha)

My question is now what are the ground mods I need to do? I have a non grounded plug on this, so I can do that first, but looking for ideas outside of that.

Not sure if new boards eliminate some of these needs. Also unsure if grounding is even contributing to my switch issue.

Thanks!

Did you look at the switch matrix to see if there are any columns or rows in common with the switches that aren't responding?

http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_1#Ground_Updates
https://www.flippers.com/gottlieb_ground_cures.html

I have not. I assume some of these are going to be in the same column. I’ve never had a switch matrix issue so not sure what the next step is after I find the columns that are suspect.

Connectors, diodes, or chips (for the switch matrix) are usually the common culprits. Wiring shorts with nearby lamps, coils, or other mechs can sometimes happen as well.

If you have a pinitech switch matrix tester, you can check for problems on the board, and you may be able to determine if the issue is a board problem, playfield problem, or both.

http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_1#Switch_Matrix
http://pinballrehab.com/1-articles/solid-state-repair/repair-guides/146-switch-matrix-theory-and-troubleshooting

Thanks so much I’ll get to work.

Which, if any, System 80 games came from the factory with doubled up rubber rings, or is that something the operator did? Wondering about Volcano and Black Hole, as I've seen multiple examples with two sets of rings on the kicking rubber posts, the slingshot posts, and behind the drop targets.

Yeah, I've wondered about that myself.

The reason (I think) a manufacturer wouldn't do it is because the second rubber ends up rather low on the center of the ball and causes the ball to launch in the air.

Added an alternate translight, several extra GI light sockets and , 2smd lighting.
It looks a lot better in person then the pictures not nearly as glaringly bright, but that translight makes this game so much better in my book.

I play this thing more then anything else in my collection, love Gold Wings (Top Gun).

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I added double rings on my Volcano because the slings and the upper flipper are so strong the wire forms and sling shot switches get bent over backwards due to impact.
I then had to shorten the double rubber posts to keep the kicker from hanging up on the upper rubber.
Wire forms and switches are surviving better.

Does anyone know where on the sound board for Volcano the background lava sound that runs constantly is produced ?
I have new connectors and all the ground mods are done.
I was playing last night and all of the voice and target sounds work but the constant volcano/lava sound in the background got intermittent and finally disappeard.

I had one in my collection for almost 10 years. It is a fun game.

Are the correct coils installed? Are the voltages correct?

It could be a heat-related issue. I'd check for cracked solder joints, especially for components that stick off from the board. Bulging caps is another thing to check for. Also, possibly think about recapping the board if that hasn't already been done.

The uncontrolled coils on the pops, slings and kickers are 38volts DC. I had asked a couple of weeks ago about this. I am at 38.2 vdc. The coils look original but I will cross the part numbers with the manual.

Here's a stupid question... Will the machine boot if there is no playfield in it on a system 1?

Reason I'm asking - I'm in the middle of a playfield teardown - but had to vacate my pin repair area (Wife wanted an office... go figure) - so long story short - I had to move the cab to the gameroom early and the playfield is still in the garage getting fixed up. I wanted to show the new board (Pascal all in one) to my buddy that was helping me move machines - and when I turned it on, the coin door coils fired in - but nothing else happened. No displays, no sounds, nothing.

Anyone have any insight? Obviously, I can't just toss the playfield back in the test out my theory as I just got it on the rotisserie - but I wanted to make sure I didn't jostle something loose moving it between rooms.

The Q and T relays on the playfield might be necessary--I'm not sure if a board would fully boot without them.