Yeah on my second Spirit it's gone.

ok,sounds good.

Can someone please tell me what the power supply cap rating should be on a Diamond Lady pin? That big cap on the power supply next to the bank of fuses....and mind is not orange...i can only assume it was never orange or it was orange and was replaced.

I am not in front of my pin at the moment and can not locate the manual online.

$26 here: http://www.docentelectronics.com/httpdocs/AmusementGames/Pinball/Gottlieb/system%2080.htm

If you want to make your own:

CONN-156BI - http://www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com/electronics/e_connectors-156.htm

And wherever you can find a 09-50-5255 double sided molex housings.

Although, some people are switching over to using JAMMA connectors instead since the pins and housings are NLA.

Didn't work, new beacon ordered.

so its that 25/6800uf?

Should be 10,000uf, 25 volts.

You can't find the manual online because it has a strongly guarded copyright by Gottlieb. Order one from Steve Young at PBR or on ebay.

BTW, is your translate very hard to remove or install? Mine and a couple of others I've seen have the groove in the bottom of the display holder cut too shallow, making it tough to remove.

It's explained well here.

http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#Replacing_the_Orange_Filtering_Capacitor

yes it is...I do recall it being a pain in the butt to remove.

Perfect!! Thanks man.

I have a really dumb question - first time working on a system 1... The lock down bar... there isn't anything new or exciting about it, is there? Like it's pretty basic pull down the latch inside and pop the lock bar? Long story short, I think mine is frozen from rust or god knows what, but wanted to make sure before I 'manually try to unstick' it...

thx.

Yes, pretty straight forward. A system 1 game uses the Shark Fin style Lock down bar but essentially, the mechanism is exactly the same as the old PEG style bar. Same piece of metal must slide just below the assembly to clear the fins. And that's the problem, those two parts of metal lie flat against each other and can very easily get rusted together if lots of moisture finds its way in there.

The part you are grabbing should pivot down and to the left. At the end of it, there is a part that sticks up and engages with the slide.

I've had a couple that were frozen in place. I had to grip the lever with pliers and work at it. I can't remember if I also tapped it with a mallet or not in addition to that.

ok - here goes nothing. It looked exactly like my Gottlieb Wedgehead (and really not too different from my system 3 either). I was just shocked I couldn't get it opened. It does look like something might have leaked in there at one time... It's really dirty, but at least boots to 000,000 displays and has partial GI (I would have done the mods before turn on, but the guy turned it on when I got there) so I have that going for me.

I'm hoping I can follow the guides and get it fixed without a new CPU or all in one. (9th game but first time Sys 1 owner). There's an above average chance I bug you guys with questions as we go.

<Update> - well the CPU it shot, thanks rechargable battery. A large number of the bottom traces are completely gone. Also, looks like at one point, someone spilled oil on the very front of the game. good times. Gotta love bargain shopping.

If it powers up blank, has the normal delay, and THEN displays 000000, all the spider chips are probably good so then there will be resale value in the old board even though it's eaten up.

If it goes straight to 000000 instantly, there are probably other chip issues.

Pascal's All in ones are great, I even own one. Good for troubleshooting and great when all the boards are missing. But if the only thing bad is the MPU, a lower cost Niwupf might be a better choice.

Is this worth saving? It is out of a Diamond Lady pin. I have replaced it with a new one and i'm keeping this as a salavage board?...sell it as it to someone that can save it? Or try and save it myself for the education of it.

I did install two socketed chips and the crystal in the scorched area when i was attmpeting to repair it. All continuity is there...the scorched area is all cosmetic...and a few of the resistor legs broke from being brittle and i made a half assed attampt to solder them back together...i already had a new board on order so i was experimenting.

Its all alkaline damage.

IMG_0840 (resized).JPG
IMG_0842 (resized).JPG
IMG_0843 (resized).JPG
IMG_0844 (resized).JPG

IMO... keep it for educational reasons, practice, or salvaging parts. I don't think it's really worth saving though in that condition...mainly that burnt area would kill it as worth saving in my eyes.

Grabbed my first Gottlieb (Devil's Dare) a couple weeks ago. All the board had issues, so I ordered ALL new boards. I also replaced the orange capacitor, some coils, and fixed some broken wires and connectors. Game starts and plays with issues, no sound, no displays, and some coils not firing.

1. I have no sound - Did not have sound before the new boards
2. No displays now, but they worked before the new boards
3. It will start a game now and just about everything works. The drop targets do not reset and the captive pit does not recognize ball or kick ball out.

* Since I replaced all the boards I am assuming I do not need the reset board. I left it out of the mix when I put all the new boards in. There was a wire I had to clip that came off the reset board connector and went to a connector on the MPU board.

*does anyone have the dip switch settings for the sound and MPU boards? My new boards are swemmer boards

Got sound working - everything else the same - kicking 2 balls out at start of game now also

Progress update: i did make a thread on this game in the solid state tech forum..i just figured id post the progress here too.

short vid attached...but no sound for some reason...anyway, being that im impatient, while waiting for the new a1-j1 edge connector to arrive in the mail, i went ahead and soldered 4 wires to the a1-j1 spot and twisted them to the existing wires and what you see in the vid is what i get.
Just a reminder..its a midway door and no test/service switch to press to do a system check. It will not coin up..coin mechs there but when i active them nothing happens...and no start up sounds either when i turn the game on....basically the display comes to life..thats it thus far.

Another quick update....i turned the game off then on again and i got it to coin up....but still no start up sounds and no gameplay..no flippers or anything....but it is coining up by me flicking the little coin mech lever i side the door.

Update on my Rescue 911
Fixed VUK
Replaced Ram (was the cause of the ?? in the scores)
Fixed blown transistor on slingshot
Fixed last two playfield lights

Played first game today!

Hi,

I suppose I'm part of the club as I have in stock: Black Hole (export), Haunted House, Mars God of War, Devil's Dare, Amazing Spiderman. I'm a fan of the 80's Gottlieb, as I played a lot when they where on location, in France, on the earlt eighties...

On our side, Frenchies make also pin conventions. Latest was this week-end, organized in memory of Steve Charland:

15 full functionning Spirits...
Stern StarWars pro & LE, Alien LE and Dialed In LE... and 150 other pins (all brands including GTB).

Alignementspiritbgs2 (resized).jpg

Alignement spirits bgs (resized).jpg

Wow! 15 Spirits? Did you hold a Spirit tournament?

No, not really, just played on them all the week-end long with friends.

The line up idea was from Jean-rené Karr, the well know French owner of the Krull. Thanks to him. The event was a success.

Very spirit-ual event imo

Wow. Awesome tribute.

Wow didn't think I'd see that many spirits together in one place until I was dead!

Could someone with a Diamond Lady post a picture of the boards in the backbox please?

Very impressive. Would love to see pics of that Alien LE. Didn't think any of those had shipped yet...

I have one, were you looking for anything in particular? Mine does have a Rottendog driver board.

My Q*Bert's Quest was featured in a DeadFlip live stream at the Vancouver FlipOut this weekend. Checkout over 90 minutes of gameplay. Also features sound guy David Thiel dropping in at 1:16:30 who did (and didn't) do the sound for Q*bert pinball

https://www.twitch.tv/videos/176718978

I went with the all in one... I figured that would be a good move for my first system 1... Then the shipping, paypal fees, and conversion hit and it was $391. OUCH. I'm hoping these new functions are worth it... Now to repair the connectors I still need. (assuming just push out the old ones and cut/repin? I saw PBR has the new pins, but not the housing)

You don't need new housings unless they are melted or burnt (which is rare).

You'll need the extraction tool: https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=11-03-0016

The pins for edge connectors:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=08-52-0072

Pins for header pins (on power supply connectors): https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=08-52-0113

Beacon installed on my R911. This game is now 100%. Thank you for everyone who helped me this club is my favorite on Pinside.

ok - I was missing the extraction tool for the edge connectors. I have the trifurcons/crimp tool from my other pins. I believe Steve YOung has that... Between the all in one and that order this is going to be a painful 'for love of the game' restore that'll be a fun learning experience.

IF you are repining the male header pins on a Power Supply connector, then the Trifuricons are the way to go.

By the way, you can make a decent pin extractor for the PC edge connector by hammering flat a Paper Clip and then grinding to fit the slot. Cheap and easy and if you bend it, just make another. Others have used small Jeweler's Screw drivers that fit the need.

I've used an 18ga finish nail for a nail gun as a pin extractor (they are rectangular not round), did take a little grinding to fit.

Hey guys... I picked up a MGOW recently and the ball richochets pretty hard off of the center 4-bank drop targets. Anyone have any mods they have done to combat this? I feel like I'm bound to break some plastics if I don't change something but I didn't see any solutions when I searched online.

Thanks, PJ

Are the correct flipper coils installed? Sometimes, people replace them with more powerful coils.

Get some air balls there on mine & worry about something breaking. The ball guides behind the rubber ring sit low and have become bent back at an angle (hence the airballs). Was thinking of trying to put in taller posts behind the rubber. One pinside thread mentioned getting stainless rod stock from a welding supply shop & making your own ball guides.

Thanks guys. I'll check the coils against the manual and look into changing up those ball guides. You think it's possible a smaller diameter rubber (more taut) would do the trick?

My Ice Fever sat for a few months and when I went to turn it on there were some strange display issues. I could press start, it would play the music, but never kick the ball. This morning I was going to work on it, turn it on, and the displays are fine. Press start, plays the music, and doesn't kick the ball.

Ok, let's investigate. Fuse is good, but the left flipper also isn't working. Let's test coils. I press the test button one time and this starts happening. It seems like it would go on forever if I let it.

Hello Gottlieb fans
Recently I've been doing some videos for YouTube, and it just so happens that nearly all of them have been repair how-to's on my gottlieb machines. just wanting to help out where i can and hopefully give someone who may be new to the hobby an easier way to digest all the repair information that's out there. i hope you all like. please share with anyone that you think could benefit from these videos. please subscribe, say hello,leave some feedback, or make a suggestion.

P.S. - im currently editing my most recent video were i show how to rebuild system 80 Pop Bumper Driver Boards (PBDB) it should be posted sometime this weekend

Thanks
Brandon
TILT Tech pinball

Looking forward to viewing your repair videos, thanks for posting they're available.

Here's a vid that just went up on the Pinball Mayhem Youtube channel that I shot. Excalibur !

Let me know what you think.

Jeremy

I need a sys 80 guru in So Cal. Anyone here know anybody?

I’m almost at the finish line.
F15 kept blowing on start up which is linked to the rear pop bumper.
The pop bumber board associated (IJI3 i believe is the connector for it) with it had a bad transistor and also i believe an out of spec transistor and the boards resistor layout was slightly different than the other 2 pop bumber boards....so in any case i purchased a new, updated, pop bumper board from arcade shop.
I install it, turn game on, F15 does NOT blow, so thats a good sign, but the pop bumper still not working. The led light on the new pop bumper board is supposed to be off unless the pop bumper is activated....well, it stays illuminated...and bumper not working.
So to make sure the new board is good i swap Connections with middle board (IJI2) and plug IJI2 into new board and IJI3 into middle board....iji2 pop bumper worked flawlessly and the led stayed off unless pop is actiaved...so the new board works perfect...rear bumper still not working.
So i then swap the connections back and as im putting IJI3 back onto the new board, the pop bumper starts to activate right when i put the beginning of connector onto the pins.....i made a short video of this happening.
So it seems the molex connector itself is the issue UNLESS someone has a suggestion as to what else may be the problem. I do not have any spare connectors laying around but tomorrow i plan on snipping the connector off...exposing some of the wire and solder them directly to the boards pin just to see if it is fact the connector itself...if it works i will order a new connector, desolder and make it look nice and clean with a new connector.
The connector is firm and snug...and when i put it all the way on and mess with the wires to see if i can make the led turn off, i cant get the desired result..the led stays on..it doesnt even flicker.

Well, as planned i did the trouble shooting idea i mentioned above...about soldering wires to the pins and splicing them into the existing wires....it did not fix it...so something is going on with the wiring leading up to the board. What would make the LED on the board stay lit at all times?