Polished the playfield with some Novus 2. It did brighten it up some but the picks looks better than in person. Just scored 549410 on it!

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Try one of these: http://www.bostonpinballcompany.com/displays.htm

I actually saw a couple of Sys1/80s with the replacement displays. A Genie with a seven digit set (which made it really really obvious), and I believe a Haunted House. It was actually half of the 1/80s that I saw turned on that were on LED displays, so it almost looked like there was some sort of spike in the failure rates, and I'd be surprised if it wasn't just worth it to just get the upgrade and not worry about scrounging replacement glass. Does it look different compared to the VFDs? Yes, of course it does. But it's not liking they're making new ones.

They have been out of stock for a while, unfortunately.

I've made a gameplay movie for the last original System 80B-design: Night Moves.

Hope you guys like it. Enjoy!

R15 and R16 are both 10K pots (resistance adjustment.) You can adjust the volume of the sound and speech relative to each other. Adjust the volume of the sound with R15. Adjust the volume of the speech with R16. The main volume pot (volume up/down) can be found inside the cab through the coin door.

I've got a parts Charlie's Angels that I'm using to refurb my Hulk. If I have any displays left over I'll let you know.

Does anyone know what size of coil sleeves I should be getting for system 80s? Looking at Marco and there's a bunch of different sizes but none specifically labeled.

http://www.pbresource.com/coilsleeve.html

I got my sound effects on Genesis to come in. I had to order in new sound roms, but this one is almost done.

Here's a question. I need a new glass to go with my NOS translite. I know that the lift trims are hard to come by for Gottlieb. So I should just cut to the same thickness as Williams or Data East, right?

Really dumb question but I couldn't find the answer, do these games have a self-test switch like Bally-Midway? Do any Gottlieb SS games use a similar switch?

You know what I hate? Reassembling a System 1 coin door, only to find you forgot to put the coin reject rod back in before putting the front plate on.

yeah. usually a small red button on the inside of coin door

Got a weird problem I could use some help with: when the game boots up on my TX Sector, the display goes out half the time when the solenoids fire upon initial boot. I have to reset and try again; sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. Seems like it's robbing the display of power but not sure what to do. Increase 5v supply on power supply? Thanks!

Better measure what you have now

For those that may not have seen it there is a new cpu board out for system 1 and system 80 that also allows rescipting the games using MPF.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-system-1-and-system-80-support-in-the-mission-pinball-framewo

Cross-posting this here to catch the eye of one of you System 1 geniuses...this one's a doozy:

When I got my JP machine for restoration, it had a strange characteristic: Somebody had placed a large relay box between the incoming power wires and the target bank coil, most likely to substitute for the stand-up transistor, which was taken out of the circuit. The game started up and played fine. (I'm using an X-1 all in one board instead of the Gottlieb boards.)

I wanted to replace the transistor and get that relay out of there before starting the restoration, but when I put the transistor in and wired it up (using Clay's photos for reference as well as other peoples'), the game still turned on okay and all displays worked, but I was unable to start a game. I would think that the two things are COMPLETELY unrelated, but that's the timeline on what happened.

Now my restoration is done, and everything lights up and displays fine, but I'm still unable to start a game.

Any ideas on what the hell would cause this? I do have schematics if anybody needs a photo of a certain section or wants me to refer to them. Or if you can tell me how to test the transistor (I think I'd have to desolder it first, though, no?).

Thanks for any help you can give...hopefully the photos are large enough that you can see what's going where. It doesn't look like that anymore so I can't help with that...

PS - One picture shows the transistor after I replaced it and removed the relay!

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Guessing: maybe something to do with the Slam switch? Somehow it was wired into that relay? Loose/broken Slam switch wire?

Just throwing darts in the dark.

Not getting a tilt light, though. I have to figure this out Sunday after Pintastic.

Not the problem it seems. It was at 5.10v: no dice. Turned it up to 5.30v: no dice. Turned it down to 5v: no dice. Back at 5.10. Anyone got another idea? It only does this when the solenoids test, which makes me think it's being robbed of power.

One thing you might try is taking the fluorescent bulb out if it's working (or just remove the starter). I have the same type of issue on my Gold Wing, Raven,Amazon Hunt II and sometimes on my Hollywood Heat and it's got to do with the light starting up. I've never been able to determine exactly why this is but it's been the problem. I've been thinking off and on about a different type of back box lighting but haven't come to any conclusions yet.

I've heard of this problem. I'd rather not take out the bulb though. Argh, stupid Gottliebs.

Tomorrow actually, I plan to try and do an LED strip around the inside of the backbox. I am going to be tying into the 12v wire to power it. What got me onto this is because my Genesis came with a NOS translite and I'd rather not yellow it with the fluorescent.

Be very interested to see how it looks.

I'll update with some photos. I'm still waiting on the glass for the translite. I just called to see if it was in yet and it's not. Hopefully it will be in by the end of the day.

I joined the club this week, hooray!

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I'm so excited to get some LED's and Titan rings in this little powerhouse!

So Genesis started getting Slam Switch Error. I tracked it down to the Interconnect wire on the Driver Board side. So it looks like I'll be rebuilding that after all. I think I had already purchased the crimps for it, just never followed through with doing it.

I hadn't had a chance to do it yet. I got tied up installing Cliffy's and finding that Slam Switch error. It should still be this week.

Dang night moves?! Lucky!

It's a pinball machine!
It's a cocktail table!
It's a dance party!

It's all these things and more!

The LED strips turned out great. I'm glad I only went with the two sides instead of 3. These are not in permanent right now, just testing phase. The glass isn't in yet so we're just holding it in place.

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Oh, I used neutral color, not warm or cool

It does look good. Which light strips did you use?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007JF2A6G/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apap_9OQUoGojQ1M16

I have a lot of these strips. I've been busy doing arcade light boxes and I did a little something special with some Black Hole backglasses I had lying around (yes the disk spins). I just made a black box with two grooves in to slide in both back glasses. I printed off the image of the disk and glued it to a sheet of plexi. I used a 12v 3rpm motor to spin it.

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That makes me want to get a Black Hole about a million times more than I already did...

Hey guys!

Looking for an upper hinge assembly for a Gottlieb System 1 backbox backglass door.

Please let me know if you have one you're willing to sell.

Thanks in advance!

Dave

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I spent way too long researching how to do the slam switch mod on my Swemmer mpu.

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I'm looking for a little direction here if anyone is available to help please chime in I have a post with an issue on a system 80b display. Thank you in advance!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-gold-wings-display-issues-need-help-please

Where did you plug these strips into? I know it's 12v, but is there a specific line that you tapped? Thanks!

Anyone know why the ball in the trough always kicks out whenever I turn the power on my TX Sector? So annoying.

Happened on my MGOW until I rebuilt the power supply, but looks like your PS on that 80B is a bit different.
http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#System_80B_Power_Supplies

Make sure your terminals/connections to and from the PS are nice and clean or re-crimp new terminals. Also, remove old and reflow new solder at the PS header pins. See here also.
http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#Recommended_Repairs_for_the_System_80B_Power_Supply_Board

Also take a look at this. You may want to look deeper into de-thunking it.
http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#Power_on_.22Thunk.22
Power on "Thunk" --> "...on some games, the thunk can be very annoying by pulsing the ball release coil under the lower apron. The result is a ball being served into the shooter lane, before the MPU board even boots up."

Sorry Sesh, just saw this. Orange wire is 12v, grey wire is ground, don't mind the yellow wire, that's just part of my ground mod.

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Does anyone know the factory dipswitch settings for goldwings ? This would be very helpful thank you

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Hey Guys! I need some help, I'm totally green when it comes to working on pins and am having some issues with my Gold Wings. The game keeps resetting in the middle of a ball and does not seem to be caused by a single issue, it just happens about 10 seconds to a minute into playing a ball and hitting a number of targets/switches etc. The power all stays on, it basically just goes back to attract mode every time. What can I do to determine the issue?? Thanks!!

Check that your 5v is actually reading 5v.

Does it happen when you hit only certain switches?

Unplug the reset board.

Sound like a similar issue I had on my Touchdown.

Might be slam tilting. Use a wire lead with alligator clips to temporarily close the slam switch on the coin door. If this fixes the issue, I usually clean slam switch with a business card and adjust the switch. You could also look up how to mod the MPU to bypass the slam switch.

If you've got good voltages...Another idea for flakey resetting is to clean the legs and reseat all socketed chips on the MPU. I use a regular pencil eraser to clean the legs, and I support the legs of the chips by utilizing my bar countertop/workstation. Make sure to do them one at a time so as not to get them mixed up and reinstall them in the proper orientation observing the notch or dot of the chip as pin1.

Just thought I'd announce that I have joined this club as of a couple months ago by buying the well-known yet seldom-loved System 80A pin, El Dorado: City of Gold. My particular example is in fantastic shape and shows the signs of diligent TLC from previous owners including full LED conversion, ground mod complete, battery mod complete, and a brand new set of drop targets from PBResource. Playfield is in excellent shape with just two blisters in the mylar over a couple of the inserts. Backglass has a couple scratches and flaking at the bottom, especially the lower right corner, but since that area isn't illuminated it doesn't draw unwanted attention. Electronics in the back box got a little fussy a few weeks ago and I lost much of the sound in the game, a light scrub of the contacts on the sound board removed some green oxidation and after reseating the connector sound is back to 100% working.

This pin has a low rating here on Pinside for all sorts of reasons - unbalanced scoring, Indiana Jones "ripoff" theme, its lackadaisical videogame simulation in TPA, and Ed Krynski's phoned-in rehash of an EM playfield since he hated Mylstar and was getting ready to retire. But despite all that I plan on hanging on to this pin for many, many years, because it's in such great shape and is a simple game for fun, casual play. The flippers are snappy and give the ball a lot of momentum, the outlanes are bouncy and like to be nudged. The left pop bumper jackhammers away and sends the ball back and forth over the upper left rollover, over and over, and a few more times after that. Just a lot of aiming and passing and trying to control the ball. For a mediocre player like myself I consider it something of a "tutorial" machine that I can use to practice fundamentals.

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Hi All.

Can someone provide me with the actual measurements or a link to the specifications for the proper legs to use on Spirit?

My Spirit has two legs that are severely bent which is actually twisting the cab to some degree. I could straighten them out but I am doubting that these are the right legs, being that they are black.

Thanks!

According to this page: http://www.pbresource.com/legs.html

27" chrome non-ribbed legs.