Well, it's usually one or two that tend to have a bad resistor, not all the displays. I'd try replacing the resistor one one of the score displays, and after that, verify that all the wiring is in the correct spots on the connectors, especially if the connectors have been repinned. Sometimes the wires can get shifted over by one spot or switched around by mistake.

I have a Buck Rogers that I resurrected from the dead. Details are here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ycv-gottlieb-buck-rogers-restoration-or-the-infamous-system-1

Yves

Thanks, I'll check that out. The plugs are so damn tight it makes me wonder if they were ever removed, but I'll check.

Anyone know why someone would run lamp wire with resistors from the fuse block to these 2 transistors in black hole? I think they control the under playfield 24v lights and the wireform actuator at the re-entry

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There is a fix to add a pull up (or is it down?) Resistor to insure the transistors turn off when they should. I am guessing that what you are seeing.

http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Black_Hole#Pull_Up_Resistors_Added_to_Remote_Transistors_.28Centrally_Located.29_on_Lower_Playfield

Would that explain why my 313 lights won't light and my wireform actuator won't move

No, the resistors are added only to insure the transistors go completely off when they are supposed to be off. If they are not turning on, that is a completely different problem.

Ok, so I found a loose wire in the connector (A1J3-14 for the record) and putting that back in place fixed the displays, so she's alive!

Almost. I keep blowing the transistor for the 10 pt chime, which I think is happening because the center pop bumper is getting stuck on. The skirt is getting caught on the spoon and keeping the switch closed.

I've tried adjusting it over and over to no avail. May just replace the spoon, but I've only got Williams versions.

Edit: maybe not. I just opened that switch so it can't activate and it still blew after about 2 games. Works fine up until it blows. Don't see any other 10pt switches stuck closed.

SS games don't work like an EM. A stuck score switch isn't going to keep a bell chime coil energized. The computer is in between and in control. It will only read the switch once until it opens​ and closes again. And it will only energize the chime coil for a set amount of time.

Instead, I would suspect a bad, broken, or poorly soldered diode across the chime coil. For $0.09, just clip and replace. If it continues to take out the drive transistor, then I would suspect the coil.

This is assuming you have properly serviced (cleaned, repinned) the interconnect cable and done the added wires and ground mods to insure the signals going to the driver board are correct.

Thanks for the lesson, I appreciate it. Brand new boards, so no ground mods on these. I'll absolutely swap out the diode.

Well, it wasn't the diode. Coil still potentially bad if it ohms the same as the others? I'm getting 24ohms in circuit.

It took another 2 games before it blew again.

I don't expect this is related, but it's the only other real problem, so I'll mention it. The drop bank reset coil seems weak. It can't reset the bank if all 5 targets are down.

Hello, hoping someone can help. I have a Robo-War with new Swemmer boards, new power supply and Ni-wumpf Driver with ribbon cable connector. All ground mods done as well. Here is my problem, when the flashers are supposed to flash they actually activate some of the coils and switches. Ie: drop target coils activate and ball release coil. Left 3 flashers activate drop target coils and the spinner flasher activates the ball release coil. What could cause this? All worked fine until my Swemmer board blew an IC chip. Sent it back to Fred he fixed it, game plays but have this annoying problem. The board is fine as I swapped in another working one and had the same problems. Also ROM chips were replaced because I thought that could be the problem as well, but same thing happened with the new ones. Has anyone had this problem? Any help would be great!
Thanks

Swapped the power wire to the 100pt chime and the same transistor blew, and locked on that coil. Now what?

Created a new thread for this, then realized that maybe it could be answered more quickly here:

I'm finishing up a Joker Poker SS restoration. The original game only had one 1-3/16" white post in the game by the 10-card drop target. The parts catalog says there are supposed to be 2. Can somebody please tell me where on the playfield the other taller post is supposed to go? I can't see where it would make any sense. This is the fun part of any restoration...undoing what operators did in a pinch throughout the game's history.

Thanks for any help from anyone!

the two tall post go under the red one sided roll over guide

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Wow. Thank you! My game was totally f-ed up.

Now do you know why you're the only one I follow on Pinside?

i try to help when i can!
funny that you only had 1 tall one? did you loose the other while taking everything off maybe?

that playfield is a thing of beauty ,very nice .

No...im literally removing posts and replacing them with bright shiny ones on the new playfield as I go. There was just one post and it wasn't nearly in the right place. I've got so the manuals, instructions, and parts catalog stuff and there's no mention of WHERE the posts go...just how many you're supposed to have. Somebody did a post switcheroo when they shopped the game and didn't take note of where the posts went...and lost one in the process.

Hello, I need some help with a Count Down I installed a new Jannin all in 1 board and new pins on A1 J6 and A1-J7 everything is booting up but I can't get the test button to work so I can set up the game

Those white push buttons are notorious for not making contact. Did you try a jumper across the lugs of the test Switch?

Yes I jumpered the switch and reseated all the board connectors but, still have the same problem , Does anyone know where the test switch wires go to on the mpu. thanks

I would suggest getting a manual, but in the mean time here is the relevant part of the diagram.

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Oh, and make sure non of the coin switches or coin lock out coil are shorting out, both of those are frequent issues that cause weird stuff to happen.

happen more than you realize.

the coin door goes though the diode board on the bottom board. might have a bad diode there?

This is how I bought the machine with some broken wires on the new connectors someone installed. I have repinned the original connectors and eliminated the connections with liquid tape. I could have wires crossed, at this point. So I am concentrating on the colors and schematic.

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Am I missing something here? Or did you neglect to plug in the Playfield and Cabinet Connectors into your new board? They were the two harnesses shown in the first picture with the blue replacement Edge Connectors.

Sorry for the mix-up this picture is where I'm at right now. I think over the years some of the wires have been switched around I've traced it to the door so, I know which wire's go where but the color codes aren't matching my cabinet. I'm not really sure where the test wires need to attach on the Jannin board

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From BorgDog's posting above of the switch wiring, you can remove A6J1 and use a jumper to jumper A6J1 pin 1 to pin 2 on the PCB to act as the TEST switch and see if that works.

That's my dilemma This new board doesnt have A6-J1. They eliminate all of that and it has A1-J6 and A1-J7 so I don't know which wires to jumper , I am just getting started into repair and want to thank you all for the patience and support.

OOPS! Sorry about that. It is connector A1-J6 in your photo. That is the switch matrix and slam/tilt switch inputs to the cabinet. The larger one above (A1-J7) are the switch connections to the Playfield.

So, yes, there are connectors in between the edge connectors and final destinations.

And, as you may know, Gottlieb diagrams are typically not posted on the Internet so it may have to wait until I get home to look at a manual unless someone else chimes in.

Yeah, sorry about that, you probably need this page as well.

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For what its worth I am trying to get this ready for the free play area at the Allentown show. I am thankful for any help.

Thank you, BorgDog!!!!!

So, you will need to jumper A1J6 Pin 3 to A1J6 Pin 8. This will jumper Switch Strobe 0 to Switch Return 0.

I can't remember if the Pascal Janin board has a dip-shunt jumper (one of those little shorting blocks that straddles two pins) to add the Slam Switch Jumper. I am thinking it does since your photo of the board seem to show one in the White Silk Screening of the board down by that connector. I also don't know what a Pascal Janin board will do if the SLAM switch input is not grounded. It might not go into test if it is showing an SLAM switch error.

Okay, just confirmed in the Pascal manual that there is a place to jumper the slam switch to ground (normal state of the switch - Normally Closed) to bypass the lack of the connector being plugged in. Page 20 of this manual:

http://www.flippp.fr/media/manual/manual_PI-1X4_en.pdf

And it will throw up a Slam Switch error if it doesn't see that input grounded.

The following questions are about the awesome System 80B game TX-Sector. I've posted them on the TX-Sector club topic as well, but traffic is a little higher here. I hope someone can help me.

Question 1: Is there a way to make the ball roll on the right ramp smoothly?
A clean, full-powered shot from the upper left flipper often gets rejected on my machine because the ball seems to create some weird bounce on the far right part of the ramp. I suspected the ramp entrance at first, but can't find a part that would stop the path of the ball from being smooth. Anybody who had this problem and solved it?

Question 2: Am I losing it?
The voice sounds that the pop bumpers make are just awesome, as anybody that has played this title can confirm. But I swear that sometimes that pop bumper voice whispers "I'm Here!" after a bumper hit. Creepy as hell! I wasn't able to capture it on video as it doesn't happen often, about once in a hundred games or so. Can anybody confirm? Either that I'm losing it OR that the "I'm here!"-quote is actually in the game?

Many thanks!

Thanks for your reply, Gerry!

I am talking perfectly timed and aimed shots. They enter the ramp lightning fast, don't hit a post or anything, create the bounce on the far-right, almost make it to the sweet spot of the ramp, and roll back just before it. It happens too often for it to be a coincidence.

It sure does. Man, the sound of this game. It's perfect.

Just to give an update, for one the wiring was correct even though the colors don't go with any schematic, but I found a diode in the bottom of the cabinet, that checked good in the system and was bad when the machine was on. Jumpered and the test switch worked as it should,, so thank you everyone for helping me !!!

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check post #1377, i note that the coin door goes through the diode board on the bottom board. test them all and they are pretty corroded

Get a vacuum in there too--looks like a lot of debris kicking around in the cabinet. Use a micro vacuum attachment kit for small areas.

I have that on the list, just haven't been able to get past the other problems yet, lol but it's been a up and down experience to say the least

Vacuum first, then go through the problems. You never know if there is some small piece of metal or strand of wire kicking around somewhere causing a short.

I never thought about that, your right that's probably why I am searching for the #7 coil, and 3 drop targets are not coming up. because the pascal board says it's bad and to check it. I should have cleaned everything first,

I hate to bother you all again but I found a blown 2 amp fuse on the playfield and the kick out hole isn't working or the drop targets are not registering everything and only reset occasionally. Does anyone have a schematic for this on a count down, I've had some bad diodes and suspect some return problems, any suggestions are greatly appreciated, thanks

Little teaser for you guys, finishing up my playfield swap on Sinbad. Cannot wait to get some time on this sucker... didn't have pop bumper mylar, so just waiting for those to shop up and i've got some parts in the shaker getting polished up (all the posts screws).

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