(Topic ID: 73213)

Home for the Gottlieb SYS1-SYS80B guys, Yep it's a club :)


By Gerry

5 years ago



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There are 3226 posts in this topic. You are on page 21 of 65.
#1001 3 years ago

Spirit with it's new long legs on and sitting properly next to its system 80 buds. Sure makes BH and DD look like low riders next to it.

image_(resized).jpeg

#1002 3 years ago

This is just a FYI post for those that think their GTB auxiliary driver boards are strobing the lights too fast in your game. I experimented with a few different capacitors in the place of C1 on the board. The three that work the best from slow to slowest are .22mfd, .33mfd & .47mfd (all three were 50 volt ceramic caps). Here is a one minute video of a auxiliary driver board slowed down to strobe LED's in pinball legs (to show how slow it can go without a long wait).

Steve
System 80, not just a job, it's an adventure

1 week later
#1003 3 years ago

Gang:

I finally found the one System 80 I have been hunting for for years (Timeline).

It's my first machine built on that platform, but I do have several System 1s.

Unfortunately, the joker that sold me the game took me for a ride and neglected to tell me that the boards were all either missing or burnt to a crisp. So, I have plenty of work to do!

Happy to finally be a FULL member of the club!

#1004 3 years ago

Hi
Looking for help there.

I have a Gottlieb striker.
Fully working, except it has no sound at all.
My soundcard does all sounds after pinball boot, when pressing the test switch, but launching the game
All voltages are OK on the sound board.
Any idea??

#1005 3 years ago
Quoted from BENETNATH:

Hi
Looking for help there.
I have a Gottlieb striker.
Fully working, except it has no sound at all.
My soundcard does all sounds after pinball boot, when pressing the test switch, but launching the game
All voltages are OK on the sound board.
Any idea??

There's an excellent section on the Pinwiki site with what looks like very thorough guidance on diagnosing sound issues. Hope this help you out:

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#Sound_problems

#1006 3 years ago
Quoted from Jappie:

Woops... I now have 2 Haunted Houses... this second one fell into my lap as the icing on the cake in a great package deal. This one has a very nice playfield and a fixable backglass.
my second!
Both my HH's are projects. I will probably fix and clearcoat them side by side. I'm thinking about keeping one original and customizing the other to speech and multiball, using Pascal's PI-80 X1.
All in good times though. Got other projects that will come first. I'm a lucky man.

you lucky sob....congrats

#1007 3 years ago

thanks pinster68, i'll look after that.
During a play yesterday, it appeared that the soundcard went to attract-mode, so i believe the issue is not the sound card per se, but the driver which does not send any command.

#1008 3 years ago

Just to throw this question out there... How impossible is it to get a QBert's Quest? Do they ever come up for sale? How much does one sell for?
It's a title my wife in interested in, and I try to keep her as interested in pinball as much as possible.. -dave

#1009 3 years ago
Quoted from songofsixpence:

Just to throw this question out there... How impossible is it to get a QBert's Quest? Do they ever come up for sale? How much does one sell for?
It's a title my wife in interested in, and I try to keep her as interested in pinball as much as possible.. -dave

Boy.. Talk about crickets...

IPDB says 884 were made. Uncommon, yes but I'm not looking for a Krull...!

2 weeks later
#1010 3 years ago
Quoted from pinster68:

Spirit with it's new long legs on and sitting properly next to its system 80 buds. Sure makes BH and DD look like low riders next to it.

image_(resized).jpeg

This just doesnt look right, but its proper, right?

#1011 3 years ago
Quoted from NiftyLED:

This just doesnt look right, but its proper, right?

I guess so. I'm still hoping someone can chime in on what playfield angle to set on these Gottliebs.

#1012 3 years ago

I recently came across a Rack 'em Up that is nice cosmetic condition. I would say PF and Backglass are 8/10. The game came without a power board, and MPU. I was going to put a Pascal in it, but they don't currently support Rack 'em Up. I've got plenty of other projects currently, so I'm not sure what to do with it.

I have been passively looking for the boards in trade, but not looking to sink too much into it monetarily. It may become trade bait itself. Any suggestions? I haven't played it yet, so I'm not sure how fun it is as a game.

#1013 3 years ago
Quoted from FunkyFreshWalrus:

I recently came across a Rack 'em Up that is nice cosmetic condition.
...

Any suggestions? I haven't played it yet, so I'm not sure how fun it is as a game.

Congrats, Rack 'em Up is a great game! I'd keep it, if I were you. This one will probably be a pleasant surprise once you've cleaned it up. Nice oldschool gameplay with some nifty rules. Also, it works very well as a multiplayer game. You don't see them often.

I've made a video of its gameplay a while ago, which I posted a few pages earlier in this thread. If you do a Youtube search for something like "Rack 'em Up pinball how the hell do you play it?", you should definately find it. It should give you a good idea of how the game plays. Oh, and good news: the 'music' can be turned off.

#1014 3 years ago
Quoted from FunkyFreshWalrus:

I recently came across a Rack 'em Up that is nice cosmetic condition. I would say PF and Backglass are 8/10. The game came without a power board, and MPU. I was going to put a Pascal in it, but they don't currently support Rack 'em Up. I've got plenty of other projects currently, so I'm not sure what to do with it.
I have been passively looking for the boards in trade, but not looking to sink too much into it monetarily. It may become trade bait itself. Any suggestions? I haven't played it yet, so I'm not sure how fun it is as a game.

You can get a rottendog 80 mpu for 199.00 from big daddy.

#1015 3 years ago

To the right, of course, finally brought it downstairs after keeping it set up in the garage

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#1016 3 years ago

Hey system 1 guru's. I just added my second system 1, a Pinball Pool project to go with my Joker Poker. Full image is from the prior owner. Going in I knew it had issues and I figure worst case I would spend the money on a Pascal all-in-one board. At this point I'm looking for advice whether to just buy the Pascal or try and repair what I got.

Pinball1_(resized).jpg

As you can see there is a nice battery and some lovely corrosion on the front side of the MPU, while on the back you can see they cut off the connectors and soldered the wires to the board. Oh and more of the lovely corrosion While I was pulling the connectors in the back to clean things up, the pins and such pulled off the right side of the power board (original), not to mention a couple swollen caps. so I'm thinking to save myself some headaches and just buy the Pascal or should I spend the money on a new power board and hope I can get the MPU board working. If it didn't have all the wires soldered to it I could put in my Joker Poker and see if it works right...

Thoughts?

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#1017 3 years ago

I'd say get the Pascal and install new connectors. They ruined all of those edge connections.

#1018 3 years ago

I'm no System 1 guru, but the corrosion doesn't look that evasive. Aside from the rework on the edge connectors, it might be worth giving it a try. If you're impatient you can always get the Pascal so you can play, then sell it if you get your original working.

#1019 3 years ago

I have 5 System 1 CPU boards over here that have little to no alkaline damage on them that I'll sell cheap, I don't know if they work but they are good boards to start from. PM if interested. Personally, I'd get the Pascal board.

Steve

Quoted from BorgDog:

Hey system 1 guru's. I just added my second system 1, a Pinball Pool project to go with my Joker Poker. Full image is from the prior owner. Going in I knew it had issues and I figure worst case I would spend the money on a Pascal all-in-one board. At this point I'm looking for advice whether to just buy the Pascal or try and repair what I got.

As you can see there is a nice battery and some lovely corrosion on the front side of the MPU, while on the back you can see they cut off the connectors and soldered the wires to the board. Oh and more of the lovely corrosion While I was pulling the connectors in the back to clean things up, the pins and such pulled off the right side of the power board (original), not to mention a couple swollen caps. so I'm thinking to save myself some headaches and just buy the Pascal or should I spend the money on a new power board and hope I can get the MPU board working. If it didn't have all the wires soldered to it I could put in my Joker Poker and see if it works right...
Thoughts?

#1020 3 years ago

Get the Pascal and get playing!!! It's worth it and updates the machine a little with extra beings and whistles!!...literally. Put one in my Solar Ride, as my board was like yours.... Don't waste your time with that board. It's seen it's time.

#1021 3 years ago

Bells and Whistles!! Lol....uh, spell check got me again.

#1022 3 years ago

I agree with the Pascal crowd. I love the new light show and enhancements it made to my Countdown....

A word of warning though.... If there are any other issues besides your boards going on, you can fry the Pascal board..

Speaking from unwanted experience here.... My issue was the under play field transistors. Look up the resistor mod and do it.... It was fairly easy to do, even for a noob like me.

Good luck.. That's a nice looking machine.

#1023 3 years ago

Thanks for the feedback, I was leaning toward just doing the Pascal and saving the possible frustration (who needs that?). I'll also look up the resistor mod and make sure all is well everywhere else. The under playfield is all very nice and clean and everything I've checked so far seems to be in good order. Have a couple coils to swap to the correct ones, and someone oiled a flipper so of course it sticks now. Many parts on the way from pbr including new plastics, rubbers and drop targets and the little metal pieces for the edge connectors, the connectors were still in the backbox with the chopped off wires in them. Stripping the playfield at the moment to at a minimum do a very good cleaning, and level some inserts, and if I feel brave maybe some touch up and a nice coat of clear.

#1024 3 years ago

Joining the club! Got my Night Moves delivered a few weeks ago but it didn't come with keys. So as someone in Australia who has been trying to get my mitts on this machine for the last two years, this is what I had to deal with:
* Dodgy eBay seller, possibly dealing with a fake bidder to start with, plus trying to gouge on delivery (went with a third party instead)
* No keys, though there are test videos of said eBayer playing the machine, so maybe he just got shirty that he wasn't going to get what he wanted price-wise. Getting into it took around two weeks of hacking away at the locks
* Fiddling with the 4x4 molex power loom thing to convert it from 110V to 220V.

But it's finally up and running! Still need to find out a few things (like where the battery is, how to change the playfield angle, if that's even possible) but that's all somewhat secondary to actually having the game in my hands. And being able to post in this thread, of course

#1025 3 years ago
Quoted from Shaneus:

Joining the club! Got my Night Moves delivered a few weeks ago but it didn't come with keys. So as someone in Australia who has been trying to get my mitts on this machine for the last two years, this is what I had to deal with:
* Dodgy eBay seller, possibly dealing with a fake bidder to start with, plus trying to gouge on delivery (went with a third party instead)
* No keys, though there are test videos of said eBayer playing the machine, so maybe he just got shirty that he wasn't going to get what he wanted price-wise. Getting into it took around two weeks of hacking away at the locks
* Fiddling with the 4x4 molex power loom thing to convert it from 110V to 220V.
But it's finally up and running! Still need to find out a few things (like where the battery is, how to change the playfield angle, if that's even possible) but that's all somewhat secondary to actually having the game in my hands. And being able to post in this thread, of course

Congrats! Next time, common practice is to just drill out the lock. Takes only 10-15 minutes or less and no damage is done besides to the replacable lock you didn't have the keys to.

#1026 3 years ago

I have a countdown ($680) and solar ride ($600) posted in the market place. Both are shopped, working 100% player machines.

#1027 3 years ago
Quoted from Shaneus:

Joining the club! Got my Night Moves delivered a few weeks ago but it didn't come with keys. So as someone in Australia who has been trying to get my mitts on this machine for the last two years, this is what I had to deal with:
* Dodgy eBay seller, possibly dealing with a fake bidder to start with, plus trying to gouge on delivery (went with a third party instead)
* No keys, though there are test videos of said eBayer playing the machine, so maybe he just got shirty that he wasn't going to get what he wanted price-wise. Getting into it took around two weeks of hacking away at the locks
* Fiddling with the 4x4 molex power loom thing to convert it from 110V to 220V.
But it's finally up and running! Still need to find out a few things (like where the battery is, how to change the playfield angle, if that's even possible) but that's all somewhat secondary to actually having the game in my hands. And being able to post in this thread, of course

Welcome to the club, and congrats on your machine! Night Moves is a nice little game, literally. Mine is standing in a corner of the living room right now. It surprises people, too. At first glance, you don't even notice that it's a pinball machine.

Was Night Moves actually the last System 80B ever made?

#1028 3 years ago
Quoted from Jappie:

Was Night Moves actually the last System 80B ever made?

Technically, maybe(?) According the mighty IPDB, The absolute last 80B release was the second conversion kit for Amazon Hunt, Amazon Hunt III.

Night Moves was the last machine, Bone Busters Inc. was the last full-sized machine.

#1029 3 years ago

Back with my next set of questions. A couple related issues.

The score display glass unit (whatever it's really called) for player 2 is currently only held to it's circuit board by the inputs at the bottom. unit still works but flops around, how best to secure it in place? Which leads to my second issue. Judging by the back of the backglass it's been this loose for a while. What is the best way to repair the area of the backglass the score shows through? I ran across https://user.xmission.com/~daina/tips/pub/tip0374.html while searching which looks promising, is that the best way to go?

score_(resized).png

display_(resized).png

#1030 3 years ago
Quoted from BorgDog:

Back with my next set of questions. A couple related issues.
The score display glass unit (whatever it's really called) for player 2 is currently only held to it's circuit board by the inputs at the bottom. unit still works but flops around, how best to secure it in place? Which leads to my second issue. Judging by the back of the backglass it's been this loose for a while. What is the best way to repair the area of the backglass the score shows through? I ran across https://user.xmission.com/~daina/tips/pub/tip0374.html while searching which looks promising, is that the best way to go?

score_(resized).pngdisplay_(resized).png

I used a hot glue gun with a plastic ratchet clamp applied lightly to let it set. It worked like a charm.

For your second issue: I doubt you can reasonable touch that up and expect it to blend. I would carefully remove the area with a flat Xacto blade, then find a matching replacement film.

image_(resized).jpeg

#1031 3 years ago

Also, some aquarium paints match that translucent blue real well.

Steve

#1032 3 years ago
Quoted from BorgDog:

Back with my next set of questions. A couple related issues.
The score display glass unit (whatever it's really called) for player 2 is currently only held to it's circuit board by the inputs at the bottom. unit still works but flops around, how best to secure it in place? Which leads to my second issue. Judging by the back of the backglass it's been this loose for a while. What is the best way to repair the area of the backglass the score shows through? I ran across https://user.xmission.com/~daina/tips/pub/tip0374.html while searching which looks promising, is that the best way to go?

I replaced the film in one of my back glasses with this. http://pinballswag.com/product.php?productid=2 No need to use a blade for removal - just carefully use clear packing tape and the film pulls right off the glass. Just keep it away from the artwork.

For the display I just used some double sided foam tape to hold it in place.

#1033 3 years ago
Quoted from hootowls:

I replaced the film in one of my back glasses with this. http://pinballswag.com/product.php?productid=2 No need to use a blade for removal - just carefully use clear packing tape and the film pulls right off the glass. Just keep it away from the artwork.
For the display I just used some double sided foam tape to hold it in place.

Cool, that film looks like just the thing!

Thanks for the suggestions everyone on the glass too, sounds like a common problem.

#1034 3 years ago

Thanks for the welcome guys, very happy to be here

Quoted from mr2xbass:

Technically, maybe(?) According the mighty IPDB, The absolute last 80B release was the second conversion kit for Amazon Hunt, Amazon Hunt III.
Night Moves was the last machine, Bone Busters Inc. was the last full-sized machine.

Interesting to hear that about it being the last 80B. In a big way, I'm thankful it's an 80B and not the next iteration (System 3?)... I've seen footage of Carribean Cruise and while the layout is obviously independent of the boards it's running on, the sounds just don't have the charm that Night Moves does.

Have only noticed a slight amount of wear each side of the display panel where the pop bumpers are, but that's it. Well, and the "credits" is partially worn but that seems quite common. Even the scoops are like new!

As of the last few weeks, it's become my favourite Trudeau game. Only complaint is the unbalanced scoring by having the "double your score" award.

For posterity, here's my updated current lineup:

13043399_10153463884700906_7911892575144305446_n.jpg

#1035 3 years ago

lovely little thing

#1036 3 years ago

Can anyone tell me easily enough where the battery is located on these suckers? I watched Clay's guide on replacing it with a button/lithium cell but it wasn't really clear on where the battery itself is located.

And other than the obligatory ground mods, is there anything I should do to this machine as a new owner that I might be oblivious to? Rubbers, flipper angle etc. have all been replaced and tweaked, but that's about it.

One more thing: The slings and pops seem to be REALLY powerful when compared to my RBION or HS. Is that just a Gottlieb thing?

#1037 3 years ago
Quoted from Shaneus:

Can anyone tell me easily enough where the battery is located on these suckers? I watched Clay's guide on replacing it with a button/lithium cell but it wasn't really clear on where the battery itself is located.

Not sure if it's duplicate info, but good pics and info about this on Pinwiki also:
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#Relocating_the_battery_from_the_MPU_board

#1038 3 years ago

So today I picked up this new game: a 1985 Hot Fire Birds by (West-)German manufacturer NSM. I had never before seen one in my life. Technically, not a System 80. Still, I'm posting about it here. Why?

Well, the interesting part about this machine is that the playfield seems to have been made by Premier/Gottlieb. Judging by the parts on and underneath the playfield, I'm 99% sure that the entire populated playfield came from that company. Pinball Resource still has NOS playfields and plastic sets for this game, too. The board set and cabinet are definately not Gottlieb, though. There is an interconnect board inside the head that receives the Gottlieb edge connectors from the playfield, and puts out different connectors that run to the NSM mpu/solenoid driver board. Makes me wonder if it would somehow be able to run on a system 80 boardset.

It's a fascinating beast. Hope I'll be able to get it running. If anyone has any thoughts or knowledge about this game, I'm anxious to hear it. Was this a (rejected System 80-)design that Gottlieb sold to the Germans? Or a German design that Gottlieb just did the manufacturing for? I'd love to hear the story.
backglass
playfield
under playfield
manufacturer plaque
interconnect board

#1039 3 years ago
Quoted from Jappie:

efore seen one in my life.

Holy crap that's weird!
Owl People from outer space!
Love it! Hope you get it running.

#1040 3 years ago

If Steve at PBR has hardware, then it probably came from the Gottlieb / Premier assests He would be the one to ask if no one else chimes in.

#1042 3 years ago
Quoted from RCA1:

Owl People from outer space!

I know! And I must say... it's my favorite Owl People from Outer Space-themed pin yet.

#1043 3 years ago

cross posting in the club.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/ad/33433

I have a Tx-Sector for trade.

#1044 3 years ago
Quoted from hootowls:

I replaced the film in one of my back glasses with this. http://pinballswag.com/product.php?productid=2 No need to use a blade for removal - just carefully use clear packing tape and the film pulls right off the glass. Just keep it away from the artwork.
For the display I just used some double sided foam tape to hold it in place.

I've been looking for those ever since pinballpal went offline. Thanks for posting that!

#1045 3 years ago

Joker Poker Question. What decal should be on the coin door. Marco's website shows the red/white/blue with the columbia pictures byline and sunburst. But the ones i've see online have the black and white globe with the red script D. Gottlieb & Co.

#1046 3 years ago
Quoted from Insane:

Joker Poker Question. What decal should be on the coin door. Marco's website shows the red/white/blue with the columbia pictures byline and sunburst. But the ones i've see online have the black and white globe with the red script D. Gottlieb & Co.

Our Solar Ride has the red/white/blue Columbia decal. Although Joker Poker may have been prior to the changeover of logo, or perhaps was using up remaining stock.

#1047 3 years ago

My JP has the globe but IDK if that was original

#1048 3 years ago

The black line globe stickers were on the later EM's with the large smooth coin door. When the games were made in EM and System 1, they got the correlating sticker on the door. I don't believe there were any transition games with either, Gottlieb was a stickler for details so I doubt it.

The red, white and blue Columbia stickers started on System 1 games. (My System 80 Hulk has System 80 sticker on it for example)

The red, white and blue flag style stickers started on early System 80 games and stopped when Gottlieb changed to a single game ROM.

The silver, black with gold star stickers continued on through to System 3. It's interesting to note that Gottlieb didn't change the stickers again when they went to 7 digit. Maybe they just dropped the idea of changing the sticker each time they changed something in the line. This is speculation on my part but it does kinda make sense.

Keep in mind that some coin doors have been replaced with better ones through the years by collectors or route operators and the stickers were never replaced with correct ones.

Steve

Quoted from Insane:

Joker Poker Question. What decal should be on the coin door. Marco's website shows the red/white/blue with the columbia pictures byline and sunburst. But the ones i've see online have the black and white globe with the red script D. Gottlieb & Co.

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