(Topic ID: 73213)

Home for the Gottlieb SYS1-SYS80B guys, Yep it's a club :)

By Gerry

10 years ago


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  • Latest reply 2 days ago by Zigzagzag
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There are 6,511 posts in this topic. You are on page 16 of 131.
#751 8 years ago

Nice job Jappie, looks great.

#752 8 years ago

I'm "kinda" looking for a clean Goldwings to round out my trifecta of fighter themed pins. I have a nice Williams F-14 and a Capcom Airborne, so a Gottlieb seems appropriate. Please let me know if you have or know of one available. Thanks.

#753 8 years ago
Quoted from BALL_LESS1:

I'm "kinda" looking for a clean Goldwings to round out my trifecta of fighter themed pins. I have a nice Williams F-14 and a Capcom Airborne, so a Gottlieb seems appropriate. Please let me know if you have or know of one available. Thanks.

Not to mess up your trifecta, but that fighter collection kinda screams for an Operarion: Thunder. Which is an awesome pin as well.

Just sayin'.

#754 8 years ago

Thanks for the suggestion! I'll look into it. So what would four fighter themes be? A quartet?

#755 8 years ago

So, on my Devil's Dare one pop bumper is not working. It doesn't even score, I know that there is a modification for the pop bumper. How do you do this mod and would this fix my problem?

#756 8 years ago

...missing my Genie tonight.

#757 8 years ago

Anyone have a good scan of a devil's dare backglass? If not, I have a scan of a semi-ok one that I planned on touching up to get a translite printed up. If anyone wants in on a cleaned up scan PM me and I can share the cleanup work.
small_backglass_scan.jpgsmall_backglass_scan.jpg

#758 8 years ago
Quoted from Ronnie1114:

So, on my Devil's Dare one pop bumper is not working. It doesn't even score, I know that there is a modification for the pop bumper. How do you do this mod and would this fix my problem?

Nevermind, I took the offending board off and I found a broken trace. Jumpered that up and we are in business.

#759 8 years ago

In the process of getting all the parts sorted for this 80a, the caps on the bottom board are in a bit of shambles.. I'm going to go with a 10,000 mfd cap, any other tips/pics on people's configuration here?

caps.pngcaps.png

#760 8 years ago

Is it true that you can swap out PFs in a SYS 1 cab and just plug n play if you have an after market board that lets you switch between games? I heard you can. Curious if anyone has done this?

#761 8 years ago

As long as the manufacturer, game file, board system (with jumpers matching) & playfield all match, you can do it. Basically, that's what a test rig does.

Steve

1 week later
#762 8 years ago

Looking for opinions - need to replace my system 1 cpu board (bad spider chip).

Which would you choose, the Ni-Wumpf or the Flippp! unit?

#763 8 years ago
Quoted from LongJohns:

Looking for opinions - need to replace my system 1 cpu board (bad spider chip).
Which would you choose, the Ni-Wumpf or the Flippp! unit?

Flipp/pascal all the way, go with the all in one

#764 8 years ago

I can't really comment one over the other, as I have not used the Pascal board. But I have used the Niwumph, and Ace at Niwumph went above and beyond with any issues I had, outstanding customer service (and I wasn't the original purchaser). I have had no issues with it since.

1 week later
#766 8 years ago

Display Question - What should I check, replace, etc when the displays go back and forth from having most if not all segments lit during game play and switching back to how they should behave normally? This is on a Spirit, and all the displays do it at the same time, even the bonus display in the pf. All go nuts at the same time and then snap back for a bit, then back to nuts. Even score displays with no player go from all lit back to nothing (no player/score) as they should. Ground mods have been done. Been working fine for years, so something went bad or loose. Thanks for your time!

#767 8 years ago

I would check clean the display to cpu connectors. Check and monitor the display voltage on the power supply maybe it is taking a vacation. Video the problem to it sounds like a good wiki addition if you find root cause.

2 weeks later
#768 8 years ago

My sys80B coin door has two coin chutes and room for only two. The manual and test mode both include info about a third/center coin chute. In the door, between the two mechs, is a zip-tied bundle of two wires with connectors on them identical to the connectors on the wires for the coin mechs (coin counter wires, not the lights).

This may be a question with an obvious answer, but are these wires the "center chute" wires? More to why I ask, could I wire these to a switch if I wanted to add a free play/credit button?

I've seen the wiki with how to cut and splice the coin chute line in direct with the start button, but if I can create a free play function without having to cut or alter the existing wires, that would be ideal.

Sure, I could experiment and find out for myself and the answer is probably "duh, yes", but am sitting in front of the computer working right now and the Pinside folk are great for these kinds of questions!

#769 8 years ago

My Raven resets every now and then during gameplay, any thoughts as to what may be causing this?

#770 8 years ago

Mine did this too so I disconnected the reset board.

#771 8 years ago
Quoted from Hazoff:

My Raven resets every now and then during gameplay, any thoughts as to what may be causing this?

watchdog board.

possiblt the tilt or slam switch? I chase a similar problem on my TX sector when I first got it and among other things the slam switch on the door was supposed to be normally closed (stupid logic) and it was to close to open. Cut the switch off and soldered it permenantly closed

#772 8 years ago

Where is the reset board, or how to I cut the switch off? I know the slam tilt on the door just don't want to screw anything up. Thanks guys, appreciate the help.

#773 8 years ago

If I remember correctly, it's in the top right of the back box. Here's a pic from the manual:
reset board1.jpgreset board1.jpg

1 week later
#774 8 years ago

Just "joined" by picking up a basket case Gold Wings.....

Needs boards, legs, translite and speaker panel. plus other small things.

Should be a fun project

#775 8 years ago

I love my Raven.

DSC01966.jpgDSC01966.jpg
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#776 8 years ago

Picked up a Black Hole on Saturday for $100. when I got it home I realized it was in better shape than I first thought. I already have it apart and this is going to be my first restoration pin.

#777 8 years ago

Going to pick up a project Totem after work today. It will go next you our Royal Flush Deluxe. I'm not sure why but I want more of these Gottlieb games.

This will be my first project where I have no clue what is working or not. Just couldn't pass it up for the price. Wish me luck!

image.jpgimage.jpg

image_1.jpgimage_1.jpg

image_2.jpgimage_2.jpg

#778 8 years ago
Quoted from jkroeck25:

Picked up a Black Hole on Saturday for $100. when I got it home I realized it was in better shape than I first thought. I already have it apart and this is going to be my first restoration pin.

Excellent!

-mof

#779 8 years ago
Quoted from JosiahCox:

Going to pick up a project Totem

It was my first machine . Love it for ever..
system1_2.jpgsystem1_2.jpg
Always in the lineup

(extract from my website
http://www.flipper-vintage.fr/decoflip

#780 8 years ago

Genie, aqua laid down...

image.jpegimage.jpeg

1 week later
#781 8 years ago

If anyone is looking for a Star Race, I have one and I'm looking to trade it. Check out my ad over in the Marketplace.

#782 8 years ago

Genie paint is finally done

12065566_1089619207715240_4445576322531427995_n.jpg12065566_1089619207715240_4445576322531427995_n.jpg

#783 8 years ago

Not really loving my TX-Sector right now. It's giving me kind of intermittent switch problems. Some of the switches just don't work lots of times. It's mostly the drop targets. Stupid thing is, when I close them manually, they work fine. Adjusting them doesn't seem to help. And when it does, it's only a temporary solution. After a few games that switch becomes flaky again. Even replacing the whole switch doesn't always work: switch works, but stays flaky.

Diodes test fine.

Anyone who knows the reason and maybe even a solution for this? Thanks!

#784 8 years ago

Hello all! Just got into the 80b crowd with a Gold Wings. Have to say that its my favorite pin I have right now.
I'm looking for some others to add to my collection. I'm specifically looking for a 89 hot shots if anyone knows where one is around my area.

I'm slowly but surley becoming a Gottlieb fan.

#785 8 years ago
Quoted from Jappie:

Not really loving my TX-Sector right now. It's giving me kind of intermittent switch problems. Some of the switches just don't work lots of times. It's mostly the drop targets. Stupid thing is, when I close them manually, they work fine. Adjusting them doesn't seem to help. And when it does, it's only a temporary solution. After a few games that switch becomes flaky again. Even replacing the whole switch doesn't always work: switch works, but stays flaky.
Diodes test fine.
Anyone who knows the reason and maybe even a solution for this? Thanks!

sounds like intermittent ground issues???

Have you done the standard ground mods?

#786 8 years ago

What a club! I've been out of the game for a while now and my first machine back is an 80b, NIGHT MOVES!!! I am picking up its sister, Caribbean Cruise tomorrow

I am having sound issues with my new Night moves and started a thread here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/night-moves-sound-issue#post-2717967

So far I have checked all connections, and cleaned and reseated the roms. Any help with this would be radical!

From the original thread:

When I played it at the old owner's house, the music played as well as the sound effects. Got it home and I am only getting sound effects. I went through the connections to check if anything needed to be reseated, but that didn't fix it. Can anybody point me in the right direction for what could have failed in transport? I am hoping that it is somewhat simple as it was working before.

#787 8 years ago

So my Pascal all in one board arrives today for my project Totem. My next step is rebuilding the connectors and testing the coils.

Can anyone recommend a good place to get the connectors and pins for System 1 games?

Thanks!

#788 8 years ago
Quoted from JosiahCox:

So my Pascal all in one board arrives today for my project Totem. My next step is rebuilding the connectors and testing the coils.
Can anyone recommend a good place to get the connectors and pins for System 1 games?
Thanks!

Big Daddy Amusements is where I got my stuff.

#789 8 years ago
Quoted from JosiahCox:

So my Pascal all in one board arrives today for my project Totem. My next step is rebuilding the connectors and testing the coils.
Can anyone recommend a good place to get the connectors and pins for System 1 games?
Thanks!

Great Plains Electronics
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/

#790 8 years ago

I highly recommend that all Gottlieb SYS1-SYS80B fans visit this site:

http://www.flipprojets.fr/

A wealth of info about the history of the Gottlieb boardsets and game programming language...fascinating stuff and essential reading for the true Gottlieb Geeks!

2 weeks later
#791 8 years ago

Count me in! HH is awesome!image.pngimage.png

#792 8 years ago

I joined this club tonight when I picked up both a Devils Dare and a Victory. Offered to buy these both about 5 years ago, guy wasn't ready, now he finally was. Both are fairly clean and appear complete. I hope to get them setup in the garage over the weekend and perform a triage. Plan is to start with Victory and then move onto Devils Dare. I am out of room but felt like having some winter projects. When done I will probably sell or trade for something else. I did surprise myself when I miraculously got both to somehow fit in my Jeep Grand Cherokee. I fully expected to make 2 trips, but happily managed in 1 by removing both back boxes.

#793 8 years ago

Just picked up a Black Hole and my inner plastic in the backbox that spins is severly warped, its working but I can't put lights behind or it will stop in fact I had to really manipulate the shit of out it to get it spinning. I have heated many many warped plastics in the oven and returned them to perfect flatness but this thing even after 24 hours between 2 sheets of heavy glass and depressed by wieghts returns to its warped state in a matter of minutes, How could this be and is there any way to bring it back to proper form? Thanks

#794 8 years ago

Does anyone know where to find System 80 backglass trim these days? Everywhere I look they are listed as 'no longer available'.

Any thoughts? I'm a buyer if someone has one.

Thanks!
Dave

#795 8 years ago

What sort of power button and power cord connector is this on Freddy. Need to move power switch to normal spot under cab

image.jpgimage.jpg

#796 8 years ago

Hey guys, need some advice here. I have a Haunted House I'm restoring, and all of my 6-digit displays are in great working order, except one. I tried recharging the filament with a 9v battery connected to the far left and far right pins, but that one display never regained the missing segments.

Since then, I've purchased a refurbished 6-digit display from PBR, but that new display is a little duller than the originals. I tried charging it last night with the 9v battery but it only brightened slightly, and still not enough to match the others.

My main question here is, should I continue to regularly brighten it with the 9v battery and will it eventually gain the same brightness as the others?

Thank you!

#797 8 years ago
Quoted from davebart5:

Hey guys, need some advice here. I have a Haunted House I'm restoring, and all of my 6-digit displays are in great working order, except one. I tried recharging the filament with a 9v battery connected to the far left and far right pins, but that one display never regained the missing segments.
Since then, I've purchased a refurbished 6-digit display from PBR, but that new display is a little duller than the originals. I tried charging it last night with the 9v battery but it only brightened slightly, and still not enough to match the others.
My main question here is, should I continue to regularly brighten it with the 9v battery and will it eventually gain the same brightness as the others?
Thank you!

I think of it like this: It's like trying to match bathroom tiles 40 years after the tile company closed shop.
The only way, in my opinion, that you will ever get all 4 to look exactly the same as each other is to replace all 4 at the same time.

Either than or you can keep trying refubs until you get a match.

I know you probably already have a ton of cash in this...but have you seen this?
ebay.com link: HAUNTED HOUSE Pinball Machine GREEN LED Display Kit for Gottlieb Pinball

#798 8 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

What sort of power button and power cord connector is this on FREDDY. Need to move power switch to normal spot under cab

image.jpg

It uses an IEC power cable. Something like this is used on WPC games.

Personally, I'd leave it alone since the cabinet hole would be the wrong shape to convert back to what is normally found on a system 3 game.

I'd guess that the power switch near the socket might be wired separately than the cabinet's switch on the bottom. Make sure that the "1" is pressed down ("O" is off). Then try turning on the cabinet switch on the bottom.

#799 8 years ago
Quoted from davebart5:

Hey guys, need some advice here. I have a Haunted House I'm restoring, and all of my 6-digit displays are in great working order, except one. I tried recharging the filament with a 9v battery connected to the far left and far right pins, but that one display never regained the missing segments.
Since then, I've purchased a refurbished 6-digit display from PBR, but that new display is a little duller than the originals. I tried charging it last night with the 9v battery but it only brightened slightly, and still not enough to match the others.
My main question here is, should I continue to regularly brighten it with the 9v battery and will it eventually gain the same brightness as the others?
Thank you!

I usually use 24v from the lockout coil to recharge a display for no more than 5 seconds. A 9v battery doesn't seem to do much other than light the filaments to test if they're working.

Also, don't throw away the non-working display. As long as the glass lights, it can usually be repaired.

#800 8 years ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

It uses an IEC power cable. Something like this is used on WPC games.
Personally, I'd leave it alone since the cabinet hole would be the wrong shape to convert back to what is normally found on a system 3 game.
I'd guess that the power switch near the socket might be wired separately than the cabinet's switch on the bottom. Make sure that the "1" is pressed down ("O" is off). Then try turning on the cabinet switch on the bottom.

There is no switch on the normal spot under game. Just a metal plate. I'm guessing I could add a switch and reroute wiring.

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