(Topic ID: 73213)

Home for the Gottlieb SYS1-SYS80B guys, Yep it's a club :)

By Gerry

10 years ago


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  • 651 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 days ago by bajm
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There are 6,542 posts in this topic. You are on page 130 of 131.
#6451 89 days ago

System 1 CPU ,fully working tech inspected button battery $120US https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/169565

1 week later
#6452 82 days ago

On my Sinbad, the right bumper has it's non adhesive mylar circle curled up. This is causing any ball that falls from the top lane to not trigger it. I would really like to avoid removing it. I was thinking of trying a hair dryer to make the curl relax and fall back to the playfield. I know the most logical resolution is the remove it, but I would like to avoid that, if possible. Might give the hair dryer a try tonight.

#6453 82 days ago
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:

On my Sinbad, the right bumper has it's non adhesive mylar circle curled up. This is causing any ball that falls from the top lane to not trigger it. I would really like to avoid removing it. I was thinking of trying a hair dryer to make the curl relax and fall back to the playfield. I know the most logical resolution is the remove it, but I would like to avoid that, if possible. Might give the hair dryer a try tonight.

These floating mylar disks were a terrible idea in the first place. It's just going to continue to chew up the PF under it. Far better off removing it.

#6454 82 days ago

If anyone is looking for a nice Torch, I have one with a new Pascal 4x1 board installed. Its a nice game and plays well.

I have too many machines and am out of room so I am open to trades for smaller items like slot machines (Mills) or trade stimulators.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/158602

#6455 82 days ago
Quoted from gearheaddropping:

If anyone is looking for a nice Torch, I have one with a new Pascal 4x1 board installed. Its a nice game and plays well.
I have too many machines and am out of room so I am open to trades for smaller items like slot machines (Mills) or trade stimulators.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/158602

Very fun game!

#6456 82 days ago

Torch is the most underated System 1 game IMHO

#6457 80 days ago

Have a quick question for the hive mind... Vari targets - specifically Buck Rogers... I've adjusted and cleaned... All switches register 100%, the mech functions cleanly (pivots cleaned, switches adjusted, etc), and it's running a new MPU with lots of repinning...

Stupid thing won't reset back to zero. Usually resets well, but sometimes 1-2 steps, sometimes it makes it to 2 or 3... But never fully back to 1. Any thoughts? I've already tightened the spring 1 full turn and don't want to just brute force it home (I have it set so it's lightly returning when the coil pulls if no ball and PF against head per the manual)

#6458 80 days ago

Not exactly sure why, but the two woood pieces that help hold the glass in on this diamond lady are missing.
20240131_210835 (resized).jpg20240131_210835 (resized).jpg
20240131_210842 (resized).jpg20240131_210842 (resized).jpg

Should I just trace them, cut them out, paint them black, and glue them back in?

Also, I'm having the all too familiar mid-game reset.

I'll start with ground mods, unplugging the daughter board, then new mpu to driver harness from docent if necessary.

Any other advice to try?

#6459 80 days ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

Not exactly sure why, but the two woood pieces that help hold the glass in on this diamond lady are missing.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Should I just trace them, cut them out, paint them black, and glue them back in?
Also, I'm having the all too familiar mid-game reset.
I'll start with ground mods, unplugging the daughter board, then new mpu to driver harness from docent if necessary.
Any other advice to try?

Check the slam tilt switch on the coin door. It's an NC switch and games from this era tend to have them get loose and cause resets.

#6460 80 days ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

Not exactly sure why, but the two woood pieces that help hold the glass in on this diamond lady are missing.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Should I just trace them, cut them out, paint them black, and glue them back in?
Also, I'm having the all too familiar mid-game reset.
I'll start with ground mods, unplugging the daughter board, then new mpu to driver harness from docent if necessary.
Any other advice to try?

When you say mid game reset. Do all the asterisks come on the display when the “resets” happen? If so, that a slam tilt and you’ll need to double check all the wiring especially around the coin door. I would double check the coin door switch is soldered shut and the square connector at the coin door hinge is repinned.

#6461 80 days ago

I don't recall seeing the asterisks. But I'll pay closer attention the next time it happens. I do know the game recently lost sound and wiggling the interconnect harness while a game was playing made it start working again. So I immediately suspected a ground issue.

#6462 79 days ago

Hey all, earlier this week I joined the club! I've wanted to own Black Hole since playing the digital version on Pinball Arcade back in 2012 and now in 2024 I finally made it happen! The previous owner installed the Pascal combo board and had the sound and speech board serviced recently by Clive at Coin-Op Cauldron. There are a couple small things I need to fix, but otherwise the game looks and plays great!

IMG_3287 (resized).jpegIMG_3287 (resized).jpeg

#6463 79 days ago
Quoted from EntityClay:

Hey all, earlier this week I joined the club!

Kitty approved.

#6464 79 days ago

I have a friend that had the auger motor go out on big house. Anyone know of a suitable replacement?

#6465 78 days ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I have a friend that had the auger motor go out on big house. Anyone know of a suitable replacement?

I bought this synchronous motor at AliExpress and 3D printed a new coupler and shim. Works perfectly! The parts are printed in PETG, the shim needs 4 M4 threaded inserts and the coupler needs 2 M4 or M5 (don't remember) grub screws. I do have the STL's if you are interested.

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For the motor you need to specify a D shaped shaft, 24VAC, 30-36RPM and a CW (clockwise) direction of rotation.

Search for TYC-50 or JS-50B at AliE.

#6466 78 days ago

Thanks! I’ll get with them a db report back.

#6467 72 days ago

Anybody experienced a game going into tilt erroneously during multi ball? My Spring Break has started doing that, a few times now I get multi ball and all of a sudden after a few seconds it detects a tilt, even with no/very little cab movement.

#6468 72 days ago
Quoted from woz:

Torch is the most underated System 1 game IMHO

Wow, the market has really imploded for these games. Not even any somewhat interesting trade offers.

#6469 72 days ago
Quoted from gearheaddropping:

Wow, the market has really imploded for these games. Not even any somewhat interesting trade offers.

It always seems to slow this time of year. Just wait until people start getting their tax refunds.....

#6470 72 days ago
Quoted from adamtoth:

Anybody experienced a game going into tilt erroneously during multi ball? My Spring Break has started doing that, a few times now I get multi ball and all of a sudden after a few seconds it detects a tilt, even with no/very little cab movement.

Have you inspected the tilt switches yet? My guess is one of them is gapped so close that the extra vibration from multi-ball is setting it off.

#6471 69 days ago

I'm looking for the German sound rom files for my Striker. Got the USA and French ones already. Anyone?

Picture for attention.

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#6472 65 days ago

Hi guys,
I am working on a Hulk and I am left with one issue; some missing lights.
Boards are the OG ones.

All drains special lights excepts the leftmost one do not come up. Transistors test fine. Are they on the same chip?
Without the manual it's hard to troubleshoot, and being in Europe, an order to PBC only for this is a tad pricy

#6473 65 days ago

I have a lisy mpu set up for a black hole and a ni wumpf driver with two smoked traces. Send me a message if interested.

#6474 65 days ago
Quoted from Nihonmasa:

Hi guys,
I am working on a Hulk and I am left with one issue; some missing lights.
Boards are the OG ones.
All drains special lights excepts the leftmost one do not come up. Transistors test fine. Are they on the same chip?
Without the manual it's hard to troubleshoot, and being in Europe, an order to PBC only for this is a tad pricy

The special lights are all separate lamp numbers on connector A3J5-10 through -13 with -10 being on the left.

#6475 61 days ago
Quoted from BorgDog:

The special lights are all separate lamp numbers on connector A3J5-10 through -13 with -10 being on the left.

Thanks. Connectors are ok, transistors are ok, but those 3 are still out.
Question: if the chip goes bad, do all the attached light go out or not?

#6476 60 days ago

Does anyone have recommendations for ant-glare glass for System 80 widebodies like Black Hole? I know the dimensions are not quite the same as B/W Superpins like Twilight Zone.

I believe the dimensions needed are 24-5/8" x 48-3/8" x 3/16" ?

#6477 60 days ago

I'm trying to get a few System 1 boards going, and I'm following Clay's guide. From what I am reading, if any of the data lines from U1 are not pulsing, then U1 is bad, and that's the end of the story. (Also assume that the reset and clock circuitry has been verified good.)
The pulses are checked at TC pins 1 thru 13. I have a few boards where a few of the lines are not pulsing - so, I'm looking for verification that this means U1 is bad.

I have a handful of these boards, and if U1 is bad, any suggestions of what to do with the boards since the spider chips are unobtainium?

#6478 60 days ago

Not all "spider chips" are unobtainium, only the ones unique to System 1 boards (U4 and U5) are hard to find (and there are plenty of old boards around, that those can be harvested from). In your case, U1, the CPU, is not too difficult to find (there's a NOS one on ebay right now) however, U1 is rarely bad, U5 is the most often failed component, but I just had a bad U3 (10696EE, of which there are several NOS ones on ebay today) preventing a board from booting by loading down some of the Instruction/Data bus lines.

#6479 59 days ago

Mthomassio - thanks for the info. So, for the boards where I'm missing data lines out from U1 - how should I proceed in finding out whether its bad or if something downstream is loading it down? Do I lift a leg from U1 and check for activity?

I'm really trying to learn these boards and its hard to believe that I have 8 bad boards. (Batteries have all been removed, luckily only one puked.)

#6480 59 days ago

Hi All. Working on a Cleopatra. Received completely unassembled. Put back together. Had 2 extra power supplies on hand. Found one that provided all of the power needed. Hooked everything up, got all GI but no boot and accordingly no displays. Added transformer and ground mods. But for this, wanting to eliminate the transformers and power supply from the equation, I went to the bench test described in the repair guide.

Hooked up a computer power supply with good +5VDC and -12VDC, tested them both at the power supply. On the board, checked CAP C16 for 5, got it. Checked cap C17 for -12, got it. The repair guide mentions the "alive LED". Rather than install the LED with the resister, I took a reading at Z16 pins 15 and 8 which is supposed to power up the LED. I received readings bouncing from 1.4 to 1.8. Can I assume this bounce is that the board has booted and is moving between player score and high score on the displays ? With an LED tied to a 150 ohm resister, would that be enough to even light up the LED ?

I have tested for power at the displays and I have 60, 42, 8 & 4. Thoughts ? And thanks in advance.

Eddie

#6481 58 days ago
Quoted from Billc479:

Do I lift a leg from U1 and check for activity?

That's one possibility, but cutting the trace at the pin might be safer, since the pins are so fragile. Also, you may want to use a scope on the suspect pin to see if there is any activity right after the reset. It's possible that there is, right at first, but if it's not reading valid code from the ROM's in U4 or U5, it will lock up and not complete the "boot". You may want to do that before disconnecting a pin and also look to see that it's "swinging" between +5 and -12. You should probably look at all of the address and data pins on TC1 and TC2 to see if any have a much lower voltage swing than the others, as that's typically what you'll see if the bus is being loaded down.

#6482 58 days ago

Thanks - I'll report back what I find - I'm planning to go thru all of them again and get better documentation on what I have for each board.

EddiePi - I have used the alive LED, and yes, there's enough voltage there for an LED.

#6483 58 days ago

Ok. I decided to work one board at a time on the bench. I’ve got a Joker Poker rom in it, and an external battery. I’ve got 3.5 volts at the RAM.

I’m using a computer power supply, solid -12 and +5 volts. At power up, power supply is good, but looking TC1-14, my reset signal keeps resetting. In fact, on the scope, it looks like a heartbeat, going from -12 to +5 about every 6 tenths of a second. The heartbeat pattern is also at Z2.

I’m not sure why the constant reset or where to look next. Any ideas? Thanks

#6484 57 days ago

. Any ideas?

I would guess that some "noise" on the +5 from your power supply is re-triggering the reset ("PO") circuit. Before starting any troubleshooting on these boards, the three electrolytic capacitors should be replaced (C16, C17 and C20). Also, be sure the edge connector J1 is clean, to ensure that the ground is good. While you're looking at the reset circuit, it would also be a good idea to make sure it has been updated, if not already done...

R159 Change 2.7meg to 3.9meg ohms
R160 Remove.
R161 Change 27k to 43k ohms
R162 Change 6.8k to 2k ohms
R163 Change 27k to 6.8k ohms

#6485 57 days ago

I'll go ahead and do the changes you mentioned, hopefully today/tonight and let everyone know. I did look at the power supplies on a meter while testing, and they looked solid. I'll look at it with a scope to see if there's any noise.

#6486 57 days ago
Quoted from statictrance:

Have a quick question for the hive mind... Vari targets - specifically Buck Rogers... I've adjusted and cleaned... All switches register 100%, the mech functions cleanly (pivots cleaned, switches adjusted, etc), and it's running a new MPU with lots of repinning...
Stupid thing won't reset back to zero. Usually resets well, but sometimes 1-2 steps, sometimes it makes it to 2 or 3... But never fully back to 1. Any thoughts? I've already tightened the spring 1 full turn and don't want to just brute force it home (I have it set so it's lightly returning when the coil pulls if no ball and PF against head per the manual)

I could not get mine working right either then finally checked the coil . Someone had installed the wrong coil and that was the problem .

#6487 57 days ago

Hey, thought Id ask the hive mind about my SYS1 Genie.

I can't get the memory to clear properly. My high scores keep showing garbled data after each power off.

I have replaced the coin cell battery,
I have continuity from the battery to the socketed (newer) 5101 chip,
I have reset each data value individually with the coin door button,

Not exactly sure what else to check, I haven't tried another 5101, but it's socketed now so I suppose I could try another one.

Ideas?

#6488 57 days ago

Wouldn't you know it - a zillion resistors here, and I'm missing two of the three I need. I think I'll start on a different board tonight, and leave the reset resistors alone for now.

#6489 57 days ago
Quoted from Billc479:

Wouldn't you know it - a zillion resistors here, and I'm missing two of the three I need. I think I'll start on a different board tonight, and leave the reset resistors alone for now.

If it's an urgent thing you need to try out, you could put available resistors in series and/or parallel configurations to get the value you need, at least temporarily.

#6490 55 days ago

System 1 sanity check, please.

Does the reset signal on TC1-14 stay at +5volts after startup or is it a 5 volt pulse, dropping down to 0 volts? (It starts ant -12 volts.). I ask since Z2 is a pulse output device, and I only see a -12 to +5 volt pulse, then zero volts on my scope.

Thanks

#6491 54 days ago

It should be -8 to -12 for about 60 ms then +5 until loss of power

#6492 50 days ago

OK - got reset going - bad Z2. Checking for data pulses on TC1, logic probe says I have all the pulses. I'm not getting any display activity. The ABCD inputs to Z30 are not active. I checked the CPU bus for activity - there's some, but for the most part, just a constant 5 volt level, with waveform dips to about 3 volts. I am thinking I should see dips to near zero.

Is it possible I have a U chip that is bad, holding everything near 5 volts? Should I start lifting legs of the chips on the CPU bus to see is anything changes?

What a journey - these are so different than Bally/Wms!

#6493 50 days ago

unfortunately that may need to be the next step, but as I mentioned earlier, cutting traces might be better than lifting pins

#6494 50 days ago

I forgot about that - I like that option better - easier to repair. Any idea on which signal line would be my best option to start with?

#6495 50 days ago

I’d start with any instruction/data bus line that have a substantially lower voltage swing (viewed on a ‘scope) than the rest

#6496 48 days ago

Looking for a working or non working 80B CPU

#6497 47 days ago

Seeking a used Bad Girls playfield! If it's collecting dust in your workshop or doubling as wall decor, I'm interested. Whether it's seen better days or just needs a new home, I'd love to take it off your hands. Happy to discuss donation or a reasonable purchase. Drop a reply or PM!

bad-girls (resized).pngbad-girls (resized).png
#6498 42 days ago

Hello all you fine folks!! Well I've recently joined the Sys 1 club with a lovely CETK, but have sadly spent more time tinkering than playing. I've never owned a Sys 1, so still coming to terms with its operation and nuances. I've completed the obligatory ground mods, the power supply seems to check out ok, I have removed the OG battery and replaced with a remote battery. There was some repaired corrosion around this area, which I've gone over again and neatened up.

Some days it works well, other days the sound doesn't work, or only the credit sounds work. Somedays the high scores don't show, some days they do. Cables have been reseated a number of different times, no corrosion is evident on the cables/connectors. Last week it blew the 25v fuse 3-4 times and has been fine since. It seems very fickle.

Last night I was roasting a chicken on the BBQ and playing some CETK in-between, everything working perfectly. Popped out to check the temp of the chicken, came back maybe 10min later and none of the coils were working, except the ball trough. Its issues seem consistently inconsistent which has me confused as to where I should be looking.

Any ideas?

CETK (resized).jpgCETK (resized).jpg
#6499 42 days ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

Cables have been reseated a number of different times, no corrosion is evident on the cables/connectors.

It has absolutely nothing to do with corrosion or anything you can see, nor is it something adding ground wires will fix.

Those metal Molex pins are 40+ years old and simply worn out. They only last for a certain number of unplug/plug cycles and lose their "spring". You will have to re-pin the connectors and your game will be much more reliable.

#6500 42 days ago

You can tell they’re sprung by looking across the inside of the connector and look at the height of the mating surface.

I agree with Sparky, your issues are due to the connectors. Repin them all, DO NOT try trifurcon pins.

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