You may just want to start a new thread for your issue. More people than just the ones in this thread will see it.

I got this from pinwiki about the MA-766:
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Two momentary push button switches are present on the board - SW1 and SW2. Upon pushing SW1, the sound board should output a single blip (tone). SW2 is used to manually reset the CPU on the sound board.
A bank of 4 dipswitches is located adjacent to SW1. Dipswitches 1-3 should always be off, while dipswitch 4 should remain on for proper function.
-----

Did you confirm that the switches SW1 & SW2 change when pushed? Neither are always open or always closed. Especially SW2. But... reset starts low then goes high. It seems to be OK...

How about the dip switches? Sure they may be OFF-OFF-OFF-ON, but also to confirm continuity/function with a DMM.

Maybe then you have a bad 6502 effecting certainly the one, but also possibly effecting data/address lines of the other.
I don't have a copy of those schematics... I'd be looking into things that share those data and address lines. It's highly possible some simple TTL chip is botching things up.

Hello, quick question. I just got a Haunted House. It has the Flipp all in one board. I notice that nobody has added the ground wires to everything on this game. Is it advisable to do that ground mod, including grounding the Flipp board? Game runs fairly well, but occasionally the switch matrix goes nuts. Thanks for any advice.

What does "switch matrix goes nuts" mean?

IMO, the ground issue has mostly to do with the MPU to Driver harness not having the power and ground wires doubled up to better pinch the board. Since you have a all-in-one board, you don't have the harness so you don't have that issue. I wouldn't lose sleep over it.

Your switch matrix issues probably have more to do with loose connector pins than anything else. Have you re-pinned the connectors yet?

Not sure if previous owners repinned the connectors, I will take a look. When it goes nuts, it goes in to self test menu. Only happens about once every 50 games or so.

That's an important piece of information, and I doubt that's rooted in a ground issue. Check the self-test button itself - maybe it's flaking out. Then use your schematic and check every connector in the circuit for the self-test button. A "quick" easy test of the self-test button would be to disconnect one wire from it and play 50 games or so to see if the problem is gone.

Also look at the switch matrix logic chips on the MPU. Those can be tested with a DMM and a logic probe.

Super, I will try that. Thanks!

I am giving my genesis a much needed repaint. It will go back to original paint.

The bolt heads/hardware on head and cabinet, are they painted?

What are the names of colors used or something very similar.

Are there any stencils of any kind for the cabinet? (Original)

I traced my own for the head but stencils would cut down on time by alot.

20230524_081218 (resized).jpg

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This might work
ebay.com link: Genesis Pinball Machine CABINET Decal Set

There is currently someone in France who is completely redoing a GENESIS, but which no longer resembles the original at all. For the cabinet, he also used stickers, but which were special "made on demand".
It may give you some ideas : https://www.flipjuke.fr/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=149613&hilit=genesis&start=80#p894936
346135482_1576217729541475_6706119824413213580_n (resized).jpg
Leg bolts are painted black. To place the stickers on the sides, he removed the side-rails, which is a delicate operation.
Currently, the display is being replaced by a DOT (DMD80B) and the pinball should be present at the BGS show in September.
It is sure that there are some differences compared to the original GENESIS!

Thanks, I will check it out

Very nice! I am not that enthusiastic.

Just got some pictures in from the clearcoater.

The paint on this nos Striker playfield was -really- brittle, so there really wasn't any other option than a clearcoat. It came out amazing!

Before:
IMG-20230524-WA0019 (resized).jpeg
After:
IMG-20230605-WA0032.jpg
IMG-20230605-WA0033.jpg
IMG-20230605-WA0034.jpg

And it was bulletproof, no issues since whatsoever! reseating must have sorted it!

It is a beautiful genesis and I've never had any issues with it except that little blip

Long shot, but does anybody have a plastic set for The Games or any way they could get me a nice scan of the plastics?

Have you tried Steve Young at Pinball Resource?

Hasn't had them for nearly a decade.

Not a long shot. PM incoming.

I require some help. I have an operator find, and a gottlieb counterforce playfield was in there, partial populated, but cut harness, along with some random gottlieb things. Seems like they parted/gutted the cab so *I think* the funky speaker grill in the top of the head, some other metal like for mounting boards in the head etc. Anyone have an estimated value for counterforce pf? hard to price being pretty rare but not super popular.. Was thinking of trying to get all the gottlieb parts for it and try for 450 ish and work down...Here are some quick pics. I have the apron, but no pic yet of it.

IMG_1664 (resized).jpeg

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IMG_20230617_133737 (resized).jpg
You're looking at Gottlieb's way to incorporate the Lane Change feature to the upper 'GOAL' lanes on my '82 Striker: a 5v switch attached to the high voltage eos flipper switch. The eos is on the left of the red tab, Lane Change is on the right.

To me, this solution looks quite unsafe. The paper divider with the red tab on it is the only thing that seperates 50v flipper power from 5v switch power. Both wear and human error can cause big problems to the boards here.

I'm about to restore this machine and would like your opinions.

2 questions:
1. What's your opinion on Gottlieb's approach to this? Safe or unsafe?
2. If unsafe, any ideas on how to create a durable safer situation?

Many thanks for your replies!

Off topic: yay, my 1000th Pinside post!

1> Everyone did it that way then, with the risks involved as you indicate.

2> Use a plastic lifter like Bally did instead. Less likely to wear and break than the fishpaper insulator.
Put heat shrink on the terminals. You can even put heat shrink on most of the switch blade and just leave the 5v contact exposed at the end.

The biggest thing is NEVER adjust switches with the power live. One slip=blown chips

Hey, that's catchy.

IMG_20230617_142805 (resized).jpg

I like the idea of the plastic lifter and I really like the idea of putting heat shrink on the terminals. I'll try to make it so that only the contacts themselves are exposed.

Thanks slochar!

And for additional safety you can install the diode protection for your switch matrix. You socket 2 of the ics and this board plugs into the sockets and add protection diodes

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/home-for-the-gottlieb-sys1-sys-80b-guys-yep-i-guess-it-a-club/page/103#post-6750517

Interesting! Is something like this needed on Pascal's PI-80 board too? That's what my game runs on.

There's no schematic to verify but I believe pascal has diode protection

I don't know what the Pascal board uses. This extra diode board was meant for the Gottlieb System 80-80B and also works on the Swemmer board. I made this because a friend had a Monte Carlo that would occasionally blow the switch matrix IC's. There weren't any shorts to the switch matrix we could find. I think there could have been some inductive spikes caused by the roulette motor. After installing the diode protection board the problem never resurfaced. It has corrected similiar issues on many other games. It is meant to prevent voltage spikes above 5V or negative voltages from getting to the switch matrix IC's.

If those chips have never blown and are working then I would just leave them as-is. But if they have blown before or are blown then this helps prevent that from happening again.

Hey crew,

Got a Black Hole I'm trying to clean up. Most of the lane guides are shot and we want to replace them with clear versions.
But I'm struggling to find some, especially here in Europe.
Do Williams lane guides like this fit?
https://www.bestofpinball.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=3329

It's for the location at the rear here.
20230622_155306 (resized).jpg

If anyone has a similar lane guide free and can see if it seems to be similar enough dimensions I'd appreciate it

Pinball.center has them, in different lengths. You'll want to measure center of hole to center of hole.

I have noticed on my Rack Em Up my GI lights in the backbox and playfield seem dim lately, the game plays just fine otherwise. I have not pulled out the schematics yet to start tracing things down. Has anyone run into this and are there some common points to check first.

My guess would be a tarnished connector or fuse clip is dropping the GI voltage. I worked on a punk once that wouldn't boot because a tarnished fuse clip dropped the 11vac by half.

Check the voltage across one of the back box GI light and compare against a PF GI light.

Hey guys and girls..
Anyone happen to own a Monte Carlo that has the 'roulette wheel' sticker on the apron?
I am looking for a decent picture of it.
May be any one willing to make a picture? So I could try to reproduce it?
It's worth a try..
Further more ... the MC I bought has a bag of black star posts.. the ones on the playfield are transparent. And a lot of pictures I see has also transparent ones. Which one's are original?
Br
FTN_Ferry

Transparent

I am getting 7.03 VAC on both the playfield and backbox GI. I suspect it may be related to the LED bulbs I am using. Here is why I suspect this. I removed a light that is dim and replaced it with a new LED bulb ( same bag of bulbs as I used before ) and it is bright as can be. I did this with a few and same result.
I am not going to say where I got these bulbs as I have used them in other Pins with no issue so far. The game plays with no issues and I may order another brand of bulbs for this machine and see what happens.

I can take better pictures tomorrow in the daylight if needed. The dimensions are 5x11 cm

IMG_20230703_214518629 (resized).jpgIMG_20230703_214547717 (resized).jpgIMG_20230703_214815988 (resized).jpgIMG_20230703_214902631 (resized).jpg

Nice image.
This I can work with.
I've added to apron label 25299-E to the instruction cards file.
It will be on my website at the end of the month.

Perhaps you can send me a clear straight on photo (and size) of the playboard fuse ratings label?
It is located under the playfield.
I could add it to the file too before uploading.

Here is a copy of the file with the 25299-E label.

Peter
www.inkochnito.nl
If you like my work, please send me a donation via PayPal.

Gottlieb_Monte_Carlo_25299-E.pdf

Wow.. thats cooperation..
Will surely use this.
I will look in to this at the weekend..
I will check your site Peter.. thanks for the great work.

Mooi gedaan ! (Dutch for 'nice job!')

FTN_Ferry

Anyone have a fuse list for Caveman?
I just picked one up and don’t want to turn it on without the proper fuses.
Thanks!

IMG_2650 (resized).jpeg

zacaj may have the manual?

Thanks for the fuse list.
Video works. Test mode works. Displays work. Sound test works.
Both red leds are solid?
Feature lights flash.

The bad, the pinball portion seems to be resetting. Like a ground issue?After a few seconds, the playfield relays fire and displays and PF lights go black. Then turn back on.

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Is there a reset board plugged into the 40 pin header on the mpu? If som unplug the molex connector on that board. If it's faulty it will reset the mpu

Wow, nice thank you. It no longer resets. The white/purple wire was loose on that molex.

Now I just have to figure out how to set the game to free play.
The coins just drop in the return chute.

Wow, nice thank you. It no longer resets. The white/purple wire was loose on that molex.

It works! Pulled the coin door solenoid bar over so the game would accept a quarter.

Boom!

I've been struggling to get the coin door on my HH to not jam. Seems that the HH cabinet is at such a steep incline (with the notched shooter lane and leg height difference makes most coin mechs reject (or at least it SEEMS to make most coin mechs reject). The coin return slot just FILLS up and then jams the mech. Anybody have experience operating system 80s and know some tips or tricks with the coin door? TIA.

I have some sys80 mpu and driver boards (maybe some power and others) from on operator stash, any idea on value untested? I don't have any sys80 to test on so just looking to move them

EDIT: Attached some pics, there are I think are 2-3 of each

IMG_1933 2 (resized).jpeg

IMG_1934 2 (resized).jpeg

I may be interested in one or two, but really taking a chance if operating condition is unknown. PM me once you have an idea about what you want for each or the lot.

I am interested as well.

Please PM me when you have a price in mind, and what inventory you have left. Thanks.

Ok, out of town for a day or so, let me go through all the sys80 boards and compile them with pics etc

Sorry, have some personal stuff that is taking time. BUT part of the operator pile is at my buddies house. I'm going to try to pull all gottlieb boards out so I can get a better inventory. I didn't realize it would be sort of popular..... I have time stamps on who/when posted with interest but I'll sort things and try to come up with fair pricing as they are all untested.