I will be setting up a website for the Gottlieb diode clamping boards and some boards for other pins and prototype boards. In the meantime you can read about them in this post:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/home-for-the-gottlieb-sys1-sys-80b-guys-yep-i-guess-it-a-club/page/103#post-6750517

This one shows how I install a memory cap on these boards.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/home-for-the-gottlieb-sys1-sys-80b-guys-yep-i-guess-it-a-club/page/111#post-7069741

Works with original Gottlieb boards and the Swemmer boards. The Swemmer board is easy since it has socketed ICs and just plugs in. Gottlieb boards may need sockets installed.

I gave the playfield a good pounding and I did get a few switches to close. I checked each of them and all seemed to be adjusted with a pretty significant gap and all switch components are cleared of each other.

We’re you able to reproduce the issue again after that?

I see now that the score is increasing each time the locked ball is being ejected early but the score increases by a different amount most every time? Seems to be significant scores of 15k up to 50k??

Not sure what scores those amounts. But definitely a switch or two somewhere else that is scoring when it shouldn’t.

I have a Super Orbit (Gottlieb system80a) that I finally got to work!
There are a few issues still that I would need help with. I dont have the manual so it is a pain to understand where I should start.

SWITCHES:
4 Switches are not registering points, and failes in the dignostics menu. But they are testing OK with the dmm (shows continuety when activated).
Among those is the slingshot switch, slangshot fires when hit by the ball, but no points registered.
Same thing with one of the pop bumpers (fires but dont register any points).

POP BUMPER:
The third pop bumber is not working at all (no points and dont fire).

DISPLAY:
Working OK. But when not in play, it shows "0.000.000" for 5 seconds, then "2.000.000" for about 1 second, then back to "0.000.000" and so on. This happens on all 4 displays.
Is that an error code, or a display issue? If display issue, where to start troubleshooting?

OTHER:
Q40 on the driver board test different than all other transistors (diode with a dmm and game off). It is not shorted, but tests about 800 mv both directions, while all other transistors test 800mv on one direction, and 1400mv the other direction.
Not sure if that is normal though. What does Q40 control?

I should add that I have removed all boards from backbox, and the pop bumper driver boards, and reflowed solder, cleaned contacts etc.

Appreciate ANY help here, it's a pain without the manual ;(

So get a manual. Seriously.

Having a manual makes it easier for us to help you.

Look at the corresponding pop bumper driver board.

Did you look at the Pinwiki page?

See above for replies thx

You could swap them around to see if the problem lies with the pop bumper itself or the pop bumper driver board.

Honestly, that sounds normal. Turn on game and it toggles between zeros and high score to date on all displays. Maybe somebody programmed a high score of 2,000,000 using step 14 of bookkeeping.

Thank you, I'll try to swap the boards.
How about the switches, what could be the issue when a switch tests ok with a dmm but not working in game? Leads soldered to switch seems ok.
Thx again

Bad wiring, loose/dirty MPU connector pins/fingers, or something wrong with a logic chip in the switch matrix on the MPU.

But again, much of this discussion is completely moot if you don't have a manual. You could check the switch matrix chart in the book and see if your bad switches correspond to an entire row or column or if they are randomly distributed. If you're missing an entire row or column, then you can focus efforts on specific wires, connector pins, and logic chips.

I would also recommend getting a logic probe.

https://www.pinitech.com/switch_database.php
For switch matrix charts

Screen Shot 2023-04-03 at 4.01.10 PM (resized).png

Then with the manual you can trace these to specific wires, connector pins, and into the logic chips on the MPU schematic.

Thank you so much for this! SO next step for me is to buy the manual
Oh and I tried swapping the pop driver boards, and the error is now showing up on another pop bumper so YES, it seems that it is one of the pop driver boards causing the issue! I removed the suspected board (again) together with another working one, and measuring with the dmm shows the same results on both (checked all components and traces, including diode testing the chips). That makes me think that I need to reflow all solder on the non-working board, again. Worth a try at least... can´t figure what else could be wrong witht he board.

The transistor? Did you test it with your DMM?

Yep I did. Really strange thing that everything is testing fine. Was hoping to find something. Guess I should order a new board

A couple of mine had loose header pins, but that was in the connector and not the board. You checked the nuts/bolts holding the transistor onto the board to make sure they were tight and electrically connected?

For the heck of it, post close up photos of the front and back of your broken driver board.

Or get a rebuild kit from Big Daddy on eBay.

Anybody have a PI80 board they'd be willing to sell?

Yes I verified the bolts/nuts making continuety as they should. Here are pics, but really Ive spent hours comparing to a working board, visually and by the dmm, and cant find anything that differs! The transistor shows slightly less value compared to the working board, like 550 mv instead of 600 mv, but should still be ok i guess.

20230405_142618 (resized).jpg

20230405_142628 (resized).jpg

20230405_142640 (resized).jpg

If every other component on the board is good, then that leaves the two chips.

Yes I agree, even if not calling it a white wood, the natural wood looks really pretty. I’d sand the rest off for sure. Great game, love mine.

Does anybody know who the main software guy was for Gottlieb around 1982? I really dig the code on my Striker and would like to know who's responsible for it.

Ipdb used to credit Allen Edwall for it, but when I reached out to him on Facebook, he said he didn't do that game.

So an update on the pop bumper driver board issue. I finally fixed it! It was the cap C3 that was bad and needed replacement. Looked good to the eye, but tested bad with the ESR meter.

Next issues to solve are some switches that tests good with the dmm, but dont register in game. One of them is one of the pop bumper switches.
I cleaned them with alcohol but that didnt do the trick
They seem to be adjusted OK... ideas?

The only thing you can verify with a switch and DMM is continuity, so if the switch isn’t registering in test, it’s a wiring/diode issue most likely.

Found this on pinwiki, but not sure where to put the jumper wire..?

"Place the game into switch test
Using a short length of wire, short each column drive to each row return, one at a time
A single switch closure should be shown as each connection is made."

I think I got it, but need to doublecheck before I do something stupid
To test the right pop bumber switch, using the jumper method:
I should remove the A1J6 connector, power on the game and put it in switch test mode, then put a jumper wire on the connector (the male connector on the board) between pins 3 and 12. Is this right??

Screenshot_20230407_221529_Gallery (resized).jpg

Switch 22 is 3 and 11 it looks like. 3 and 12 is switch 23.

Looks like SW 22 is between 3 and 12.

Screen Shot 2023-04-07 at 3.30.36 PM (resized).png

interesting. So where does pin 10 go to?

Looks like 3 & 10 go to SW 20. Are we looking at the same drawing?

Screen Shot 2023-04-07 at 3.50.17 PM (resized).png

Thanks! So I am right by putting the jumper on the board "pins" (i.e. the edge connector pins)?

Yes, the jumper would be simulating a single switch closure. Just be careful not to accidentally touch the adjacent edge finger connection.

Yes. But I’m learning too. Sorry I didn’t see sw 20.

Thanks a lot! Going to test that tomorrow. Cheers!

Don't be sorry. It's all good. I just wasn't sure on the tone of what you were asking/saying ... but that's my fault for making the wrong assumption.

Dots are the connection points. If two lines on a schematic cross without a dot, there is no wire connection there.

Got it. Thank you!

I'm making some progress on my Bad Girls multiball issue but still stumped. Thanks to all for the advice. I went ahead and did all ground mods in the head (had just been done in lower cab). I also repinned the mpu/driver interconnect harness. Issue still remained. I then systematically disconnected switch strobe wires and return wires from the mpu while trying to duplicate the early multiball ejection issue. The results showed me that the switch return signal that is triggering the early lockout is absolutely coming from switch 45...the switch that is closed when the ball is staged for multiball in the upper left vuk? I have rulled out the ball bouncing on the vuk switch as I have simulated that manually by jumping that stobe and return on and off for a few seconds. After at least 4 seconds is where I could control the ejection with my testing harness...if Ieave that switch return disconnected at mpu the ball will never eject from vuk. If I keep the return connected the whole time the ball may or may not eject early (the issue itself). If I leave it disconnected for several seconds then connected it the ball will eject instantly as mpu must be reading this as a new switch closure. It would seen that sometimes the mpu is reading the ball in the vuk as a new switch closure and sometimes it is understanding the the ball there is an earlier switch closure? I already swapped MPUs with no effect but I did have to swap game roms. Could the roms be causing this issue? I do have new roms comming in a few days. Any help greatly appreciated!!

20230409_131220 (resized).jpg

I am having an 80B display issue if anyone has any advice: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-80b-display-out

NEVER disconnect or connect anything while the machine is powered up.

Here's some pics of the Counterforce I've been working on for a while. Painted the cabinet in a candy metallic purple, 2pac clear coated the pf, maple rails and a pascal 4-1 to name a few things. Game also had an original goody bag when I bought it with the warranty cards. Just waiting on a new lift bar for the bg. Going to bring it to pinfest for free play.

20230415_183626 (resized).jpg

20230416_124224 (resized).jpg

20230416_131230 (resized).jpg

20230416_131446 (resized).jpg

20230416_131451 (resized).jpg

20230416_131517 (resized).jpg

20230416_131540 (resized).jpg

20230416_131805 (resized).jpg

20230416_204407 (resized).jpg

I believe I see broken solder joints on that pop bumper driver board. Second picture. at connector pins.

They looked fine to me, but it wouldn't hurt to re-flow them.

Screen Shot 2023-04-20 at 11.52.58 AM (resized).png

Listed some 80B goodness.

Machine - For Sale

Gold Wings Archived

Fully shopped/refurbished - “Some 80B goodness. 1 of the nicest GW's your going to find. Clearcoated N.O.S. pf, N.O.S. plastics, N.O.S. Translight. Rampomatic pink ramp (clear original included). Powdercoated ...”

2023-04-18

Elburn, IL

psd4me

3,000

Archived after: 10 days

Viewed: 474 times

Status: Didn't sell to Pinsider

Machine - For Sale

Raven Archived

Fully shopped/refurbished - “Selling my Raven pinball. Clearcoated N.O.S. pf, alternate translight (have an N.O.S. original that goes with the game). Powdercoated siderails, Lockbar and legs. Leds in the pf in...”

2023-04-22

Elburn, IL

psd4me

1,950

Archived after: 54 days

Viewed: 681 times

Status: Not sold

Machine - For Sale

Amazon Hunt II Archived

Fully shopped/refurbished - “Some rare 80B goodness here. These originally were conversion kits for early 80B games. I think they mainly went overseas. This started as an N.O.S. pf assembly (minus apron and sh...”

2023-06-04

Elburn, IL

psd4me

2,300

Archived after: 37 days

Viewed: 968 times

Status: Didn't sell to Pinsider

Here's a couple of pictures of my 80b collection, the only time they've all been together in a line was for one night at UK Pinfest last year. I don't have a lot of space where I live so I rotate them through loans and storage fairly frequently, I was overjoyed to see them all together. Genesis got pulled for the UK league finals and then later on TX was taken for the classics comp so thankfully I got a few pictures while they were all together!

FB_IMG_1682358519698 (resized).jpgFB_IMG_1682358528317 (resized).jpg

*Double post*

Sorry!!

Nice collection of SYS80B.

Here, MAD SCIENTISTS are working hard on a new project for 2023 DMD80B (resized).jpgWhat ? A new GENESIS of display ? er, no, not only but I can reveal more, this is still a secret
Stay tuned, other revelations could leak out before this summer.

Hey, may be just in time for me to pull out genesis for a restore, been collecting parts for a while to help out

System-80B question; I have a few of these that seem very reliable, yet about every 10 time or so I turn them on the displays do not light up, yet game plays perfectly? However, if it does this I simply turn off and back on right away and the displays always come back on, why are they off every once in a while? Thanks

It's the fluorescent light, not sure if it's the starter or what.

Not the light, it’s the blue displays. The light always seems to work fine, this happens on nearly every system-80B I’ve ever owned, but not on the alpha-numeric system-3’s?