Very interested!

Signed up on the waiting list via your link. Thanks for offering this!!!

I've been working on a Monte Carlo for half a year now (I'm still learning) and I've pretty much got the game working outside of a hangup when it ends. After months of flying blind I installed an LCD display today, and as I suspected there is a closed switch causing me problems. It's telling me SWITCH 12 is closed, from what I can see switch 12 is somehow tied to the right coin chute? In the manual on page 6 it suggests S9, S10, S11, S12, S13 are right coin shoot. Am I understanding this correctly or am I way off here? The boards have been checked out and are ok so I assume at this point I need to adjust a switch on the coin door but I don't see one

Not sure if your machine actually has coin mechanisms, but the switch you're looking for is where the coin would exit the mechanism. It would trip this switch and then fall directly into the coin box.

Switches S9 thru S13 would be used to specify the coin and credit options.

Ok, looks like I missed a part in the manual. It's hard to fix things when I can't even read the directions lol. I always suspected there was something slightly off with the roulette wheel and according to page 48 SW12 is the switch between 8 and 7 which makes a lot of sense. Thanks for the quick response but I think I unintentionally mislead you. Apologies for that

Selling a System backbox locking cam assembly. Will include some original Gottlieb paperwork and a power supply board bracket. $26 shipped.

The last picture shown is for reference purposes.

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Received my new Alien Star Backglass from coos today! It looks wonderful! very good quality as I expected from him. I took a couple pictures, the white flecks are packing material, there are no blemishes, FYI.

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jim5six
Looks great
Show it in the cabinet.

Always nice to unwrap pinball presents..

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/krull-remake-2023#post-7489090

Looks fantastic! Where can I get one and how long did it take to receive it? I need one desperately.

Looking to purchase a Sys80 Sound/Speech board. No SC-01 necessary (going in a Haunted House). Need one ASAP.

Thanks!

There’s a new one on eBay, if you message the seller, he will remove the speech chip and give you a discount

Not for a Sys80 that I can see. I've emailed Fred a few times and he's gone AWOL on me. Any chance the ones that shipped out with Krull (there are a few) would work? They all seem to be missing U12-U19 (that row at least maybe not the numbers themselves)

Fred had them listed on eBay , now they’re not there, maybe he’s making more?? His board works with HH, you just need roms, honestly the speech chip is $50 on the market, if he removes it, it only saves you $25. So keep the chip in and sell it.

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Actually the SC-01 would cost a couple hundred to replace. If you have a source for $50 chips I could use extras…

$50?? Where? Today on eBay... $300...

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My bad, my source is out

I may have a spare Ty.

Let me check and I will get back to you.

Hi guys,

Does anyone know what Q30 controls on Count down?

My yellow drop target bank coil locks on. Q30 appears to test badly (in circuit). I thought the pre driver was Q17, which tests good. I have not tested the under PF transistor yet.

Thanks.

Does this file help?
http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Tech_Charts/Gottlieb_Count-Down_Tech_Chart.pdf

Q30 is the Green Target Bank Reset (if the manual is correct).

It does. Thank you.

Is that on your site?

That was the culprit. OL across all legs. Removed and replaced. All is right with the world again.

Yes it is.
Look in the Tech Chart section.
Not all the Gottlieb games are there jet.
I plan to do the remaining Gottlieb games at a later time.

Robowar: For some reason I cannot cycle through ROBO lights at the top of the play field using my flipper buttons. Flippers work fine. Any suggestions on where to start looking?

Great, Thank you.

Check your right flipper.
Not at the button, but at the mech EOS switch under the playfield.
There should be a double stack of switch blades.
One for the flipper EOS and one for the lane change.
Do not get them mixed!
The flipper is coil voltage and the lane change 5V switch matrix.

Lane change is Switch 46.
Use the self test function in switch test mode.

Are you sure it’s at the cabinet button? It might be at the flipper mech. So if you don’t see it at the cabinet switch, check the mech.

I stand corrected.
I've editted the text accordingly.

I honestly don’t know for sure, but I’ve seen it at the flipper mech in other 80bs.

Monte Carlo has a switch on the right flipper mech at the same location that actually stops the upper rollover light from cycling. Same thing.

It was the switch. Thank you both! Much appreciated.

Help!
I recently bought a Super Orbit which according to seller was working fine until it suddenly stopped.

I kinda boots, but all coils are out including the flippers.

Spent some hours searching on the net and Im going to do the ground mods etc.

3 questions:

1. One of the things Im investigating is the Q/T relays, I am not sure where to find these, perhaps the black boxes circled in the pic?

2. The slam switch under the pf dont have continuety! when triggered by hand it shows 0.2-0.5v in continuety mode (game off). No beep. Is that correct?

Actually there are more switches that measures the same, not only the slam switch, i.e. no continuety even when triggered by hand. Shouldnt all switches "beep" when triggered?

3. I also discovered that all bumper coils, and some other coils, all have continuety between their lugs, which in turn has continuety to ground!
So both lugs are grounded, that seems odd?! There are diodes between the lugs, it cant be that all diodes are shorted?

Where do I start? Help!

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No, those are bridge rectifiers. The QT relays are mounted on the underside of the PF near the top.

Well thank u sire, now I found the relays!
They seem to test fine but Im not sure if In doing it right. I tested the relay switches for continuety. The tilt relay had only 1 switch (rack), continuety obtained when moving relay by hand.

The slam tilt had a 3-rack switch (not sure about the name), the first one is NC and the other 2 NO, all switched fine when relay is moved.

I am cleaning all connectors etc BUT really think that the coils showing continuety between all lugs (also those with 3 lugs) seems strange, or is that normal? Where do I start troubleshooting this issue?

Thanks!

If you haven’t repinned every connector in the backbox yet, do that, and see what’s what after that. Reuse the housings and replace the pins.

Thanks, Im gonna do that. Could a connector be causing the continuety between the coil lugs?
I was thinking maybe a shorted transiator on the driver board could be the cause, but I dont have the manual.

I tested all transistors on the driver board by grounding one lead and touching the metal tab on each transistor with the other lead.

The transistors below showed continuety to ground, does that mean that they are (all) bad?? Could i have found the error??

Q4, Q18-23, Q25-31

Pull the relay and clean the contacts really good and make sure the contacts are pressing really good when solenoid is energized…. For good measure

This was helpful for me.

I just spent the last 8 hours trying to figure out an ongoing issue with my Bad Girls.....I'm absolutely going to lose it soon. Really hoping someone here can help me. It's an intermittent issue. Sometimes after locking a ball, the vuk will shoot the ball onto the playfield...usually a second or 2 before I get a chance to plunge the second ball onto the playfield (start multiball). The vuk coil is suppose to be triggered only after the 1st playfield switch is activated by the 2nd ball. I've run a switch matrix test and no switch is closed. I've adjusted and replaced switch 45 that detects the ball in the vuk. I've adjusted relay A that when not activated allows voltage to reach vuk...when activated sends same voltage to only flashers. It looks like timing is very close from relay A activaton/release and vuk kicking. There is one clue...every time if the vuk is going to kick out the ball early the pin makes the same sound as the vuk ball detect switch being closed just before launching the ball. In trouble shooting I did switch out the MPU and the driver board with known good boards. I did have to reuse the game proms though. Board swap did not resolve the issue. I'm just about at the point of selling this pin even though I love the gameplay. I'd be extremely grateful for any help on this one.

I'm not familiar with the physical setup of Bad Girls but two thoughts.

Could the ball be rattling in the vuk hole and triggering the switch and then moving off it and back on? It could be that your switch is actually adjusted too sensitive and is triggering and then re-opening before the ball settles.

This era of Gottlieb also greatly benefits from having connectors repinned and the MPU card edges cleaned. Have you done this?

Thanks for the input. I did think of the vuk switch possibly registering twice do to ball bounce...I have adjusted the leaf switch every possible way I could, sensitive and non-sensitive. I then replaced the switch, then went back to original. I had forgot to mention that I had repinned all of the strobe and return connectors as well as the double sided connector interconnect (with the correct obsolete pins). I had also cleaned all of the board edges with a fiberglass pen. Ground mods in lower cab were also done. This one has me stumped.

Couple options. Have you tried any alternate MPU boards like the LISY80? May be worth trying that or one of the reproduction replacements to see if there is any difference. Another may be to try one of my diode clamping boards for the switch matrix. Not sure if it would help in this instance but it has helped quite a few other games where switch matrix chips would fail without reason.

It would be worth looking under the playfield again to see if any switches are gapped too close, pinched wires, lamp sockets touching things they shouldn’t, etc.

I would also suspect a possible intermittent diode or short on the switch matrix. Check to see if multiple switches activate when the ball kicks out and activates the shooter lane switch. Also, dooe the game add score before you launch the 2nd ball and before the locked ball activates a switch? This may help narrow down the exact switch being activated if that is the issue.

Try putting into switch test and finding some other switch that is too sensitive that is causing the locked ball to release?

Good thought. Tap around the playfield to see if a switch is adjusted to closely. The through kickout may be shaking the machine and activating a switch.

I had visually checked all the playfield switches for any narrow gaps. I hadn't thought about lamp sockets or other things touching. I will look closely. Thanks.

I might try a Swemmer board I have but I would have to jumper it differently. Where can I learn more about your product?

How could I check to see if other switches close upon early ball eject? Can I be in switch test and activate vuk? Great idea on checking score increase. I will try it.

I had tried tapping around the playfield but hadn't thought of the trough eject causing vibration. Thanks.

It has been a while since I used the switch test in an 80B game, but placing a ball in the shooter lane should show the closed switch (SW 73) on the display. If anything other switch is also closed it should cycle through them on the screen. If it is intermittent, you may need to do it a couple times to confirm.

That’s not what you’re trying to do. You want to see if another switch on the playfield registers when it shouldn’t. That is what is causing the early ball eject. The ball shouldn’t eject until another switch is made. My guess is another switch is registering when it shouldn’t.

Don’t tap the playfield. Pound on it with your fist. Shake the game vigorously. See if you can get a switch to show up in test. Raise the playfield and shake it in your hand.