(Topic ID: 73213)

Home for the Gottlieb SYS1-SYS80B guys, Yep it's a club :)

By Gerry

9 years ago


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#5901 24 days ago
Quoted from DawnP:

Jappie We just picked up a Striker ourselves. Missing the triangle plastic between bottom gate and pop bumper. I think I can manage something for that. The displays worked briefly, but don't now. We have replaced the fuse twice to no avail. Next call is for a tech. Gave it a good clean down & wax, replaced the rubbers all around, some star posts. Still plays and is fun even if you don't know your score.

DawnP
Hey how cool, another Striker owner! Any pictures?

Mine is the other way around: it doesn't play yet, but the displays do work. I have a Pascal board installed. It indicates a coil error that I'll have to look into.

The plastic you refer to is broken on mine. I have a NOS set waiting to be installed though. There should be a good one in there. Let me know if you need a scan.

#5902 24 days ago

Jappie

Cool on the NOS set. If you could scan or take a picture, actual dimensions L x W, I can make another piece. It plays great. We had to replace fuse for drop targets, that fixed those. Still not sure on displays. I took a couple pics this morning. Fun game.

0FDA123F-D90F-4D49-BE96-498E91826925 (resized).jpegF89867C3-E789-4FAD-9914-64A2E31EC349 (resized).jpeg
#5903 21 days ago

Another system 1 query for you guys. The famous Todd N. Tuckey toddtuckey shows a fuse added to the small transformer in a couple of his system 1 videos. Unfortunately, it's always a quick, "hey do this so you don't kill your game" thing and there isn't a detailed shot or explanation. To which line, coming from that transformer, do I need to add a fuse? Thanks, in advance.

-RC

#5904 21 days ago
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:

Another system 1 query for you guys. The famous Todd N. Tuckey toddtuckey shows a fuse added to the small transformer in a couple of his system 1 videos. Unfortunately, it's always a quick, "hey do this so you don't kill your game" thing and there isn't a detailed shot or explanation. To which line, coming from that transformer, do I need to add a fuse? Thanks, in advance.
-RC

I think there is a good write up on pinrepair.com

#5905 21 days ago
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:

Another system 1 query for you guys. The famous Todd N. Tuckey toddtuckey shows a fuse added to the small transformer in a couple of his system 1 videos. Unfortunately, it's always a quick, "hey do this so you don't kill your game" thing and there isn't a detailed shot or explanation. To which line, coming from that transformer, do I need to add a fuse? Thanks, in advance.
-RC

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_1#Recommended_Fuses_to_Install_to_Protect_the_Small_Transformer

#5906 21 days ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

I think there is a good write up on pinrepair.com

Just found it, thanks.

#5907 18 days ago

I have a new Spring Break translite available that features the beach boys!

Spring Break PsT (resized).jpg
#5908 17 days ago
Quoted from DawnP:

Jappie
Cool on the NOS set. If you could scan or take a picture, actual dimensions L x W, I can make another piece. It plays great. We had to replace fuse for drop targets, that fixed those. Still not sure on displays. I took a couple pics this morning. Fun game.[quoted image][quoted image]

Try this. This image file is actually 3" w X 2.5" h.

Gottlieb-Striker_Triangle-Plastic-scan_OTTOgd_Jan-16-2023 (resized).jpg

#5909 17 days ago

Would anyone be able to offer a reasonable explanation as to why it seems as though any work done to my game (TX Sector) would cause seemingly random coils to lock on or cause a fuse to blow?

Got the game working 100% a couple of weeks ago and enjoyed playing it. Decided to replace the drop targets and give it a clean. Turn it on and a coil locks up (this one locked on when I got the game and consequently resolved). I decided to just try to replace the diode, and now when I turn it on, it blows the fuse that powers the 4 saucer solenoids. I tried to replace the fuse, and it blows again...so now I'm out of fuses the coil locking on has happened 2x now (different coils) when i did some other unrelated work (both times resolved) and now this.

Going to make up a 1A circuit breaker while I troubleshoot this and wait for more fuses to arrive. I haven't checkednth3 schematics yet but presume that the coils lit on the board coincide with the 4 saucers.

Also has a Swemmer MPU.
20230114_214325 (resized).jpg

#5910 17 days ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Would anyone be able to offer a reasonable explanation as to why it seems as though any work done to my game (TX Sector) would cause seemingly random coils to lock on or cause a fuse to blow?
Got the game working 100% a couple of weeks ago and enjoyed playing it. Decided to replace the drop targets and give it a clean. Turn it on and a coil locks up (this one locked on when I got the game and consequently resolved). I decided to just try to replace the diode, and now when I turn it on, it blows the fuse that powers the 4 saucer solenoids. I tried to replace the fuse, and it blows again...so now I'm out of fuses the coil locking on has happened 2x now (different coils) when i did some other unrelated work (both times resolved) and now this.
Going to make up a 1A circuit breaker while I troubleshoot this and wait for more fuses to arrive. I haven't checkednth3 schematics yet but presume that the coils lit on the board coincide with the 4 saucers.
Also has a Swemmer MPU.
[quoted image]

I had a bad rom in the brand new swemmer board at U5. Might be worth checking out. I wasted a lot of troubleshooting time when all it was was the bad rom on the mpu. Just didn’t occur to me a new board could have faults.

#5911 17 days ago

Just fyi to those in this group. I have spare parts left over from a tx project. I have a new swemmer mpu
Working sound board with new roms
Working driver board
Piggyback board

I have other stuff too just ask.

DB32FCE1-DF1C-4378-8E4F-914C845DD5F5 (resized).jpeg
#5912 17 days ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Would anyone be able to offer a reasonable explanation as to why it seems as though any work done to my game (TX Sector) would cause seemingly random coils to lock on or cause a fuse to blow?

Bad grounds and poor connections can cause coils to lock on. Once locked, the current draw will blow a fuse, hopefully. Otherwise, without fuse protection, the current draw can burn down the coil.

Installing new boards does not fix the bad, dirty, or broken pins inside the connectors. Focus on the last coil that locked up, find it on the schematic, and trace the wires through all the connectors while doing a thorough inspection of each connection.

#5913 17 days ago
Quoted from Jkush18:

I had a bad rom in the brand new swemmer board at U5. Might be worth checking out. I wasted a lot of troubleshooting time when all it was was the bad rom on the mpu. Just didn’t occur to me a new board could have faults.

How do I troubleshoot if it's a bad rom?

Quoted from sparky672:

Bad grounds and poor connections can cause coils to lock on. Once locked, the current draw will blow a fuse, hopefully. Otherwise, without fuse protection, the current draw can burn down the coil.
Installing new boards does not fix the bad, dirty, or broken pins inside the connectors. Focus on the last coil that locked up, find it on the schematic, and trace the wires through all the connectors while doing a thorough inspection of each connection.

It looks like one of the previous owners did all pf the ground mods. There is some not-quite-the-best lighting wiring (pop bumpers) but it should be good enough not to be related.

What do I need to refresh the edge connectors? This is my first 80b so kinda new to the whole system.

#5914 17 days ago

How do I troubleshoot if it's a bad rom?

You’ll need a logic probe. You’ll also need to know where to hook it up so you have 5v power. Then you’ll need to know if the signal you’re testing should be high or low. Then test and if the chip isn’t behaving as intended, replace it.

#5915 17 days ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

... What do I need to refresh the edge connectors? This is my first 80b so kinda new to the whole system.

Everything is Molex. I stuck with everything in the 18-24 AWG wire gauge size and had good luck. The Molex website is full of pictures and specs when you need to see what's what, even the obsolete are maintained there.

https://www.molex.com/molex/home

----

The single sided pins are still obtainable through various sources... including eBay, Amazon, etc. Just a matter of Googleing the Molex part number. The originals are the "punch-down" style. These can be replaced with crimp-on style. The crimp-on style pins fit perfectly the same into the punch-down style plastic housings.

Single Sided Edge Connectors (KK series 2478, KK 0.156”)

Molex 08-52-0072 (18-24 AWG)
Molex 08-52-0071 - same but sold on strips

https://www.molex.com/molex/products/part-detail/crimp_terminals/0008520072

----

The double sided pins have been obsolete for years and very expensive if you can find new old stock for sale. They are only used in the MPU to Driver harness. Somebody on eBay is producing and selling a knock-off pins. Otherwise, Docent Electronics is selling wires with the pins crimped on for the double-sided connectors. Pricy but easy to just change out these wires.

Double Sided Edge Connector (KK series 4366, KK 0.156”) - MPU/Driver (Qty 66)

Molex 08-03-0304 (18-24 AWG) - OBSOLETE - Docent Electronics kit of 33 replacement wires/pins
Molex 08-03-0303 same but sold on strips - OBSOLETE - Docent Electronics kit of 33 replacement wires/pins
Check eBay for the clone knockoff replacement (equipment99.com)

https://www.molex.com/molex/products/part-detail/crimp_terminals/0008030304

----

You will need a pin extractor tool. It's like a very small screwdriver you shove into the plastic housing to release the tab and pull out the wire. You could make one. Others claim a safety pin works.

----

You will need a crimper for Molex pins. It's dual action to crimp into wire on the end while also crimping into the insulation farther up. Molex crimpers are expensive but Amazon has some "good-enough" knock-offs.

I got this one, but you will need to practice to get a feel for which size die corresponds to your pin/wire combination.

amazon.com link »

----

Also refer to Pinwiki:

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Gottlieb_System_80#Connectors.2C_Connectors.2C_Connectors

#5916 17 days ago
Quoted from sparky672:

Everything is Molex. I stuck with everything in the 18-24 AWG wire gauge size and had good luck. The Molex website is full of pictures and specs when you need to see what's what, even the obsolete are maintained there.
https://www.molex.com/molex/home
----
The single sided pins are still obtainable through various sources... including eBay, Amazon, etc. Just a matter of Googleing the Molex part number. The originals are the "punch-down" style. These can be replaced with crimp-on style. The crimp-on style pins fit perfectly the same into the punch-down style plastic housings.
Single Sided Edge Connectors (KK series 2478, KK 0.156”)
Molex 08-52-0072 (18-24 AWG)
Molex 08-52-0071 - same but sold on strips
https://www.molex.com/molex/products/part-detail/crimp_terminals/0008520072
----
The double sided pins have been obsolete for years and very expensive if you can find new old stock for sale. They are only used in the MPU to Driver harness. Somebody on eBay is producing and selling a knock-off pins. Otherwise, Docent Electronics is selling wires with the pins crimped on for the double-sided connectors. Pricy but easy to just change out these wires.
Double Sided Edge Connector (KK series 4366, KK 0.156”) - MPU/Driver (Qty 66)
Molex 08-03-0304 (18-24 AWG) - OBSOLETE - Docent Electronics kit of 33 replacement wires/pins
Molex 08-03-0303 same but sold on strips - OBSOLETE - Docent Electronics kit of 33 replacement wires/pins
Check eBay for the clone knockoff replacement (equipment99.com)
https://www.molex.com/molex/products/part-detail/crimp_terminals/0008030304
----
You will need a pin extractor tool. It's like a very small screwdriver you shove into the plastic housing to release the tab and pull out the wire. You could make one. Others claim a safety pin works.
----
You will need a crimper for Molex pins. It's dual action to crimp into wire on the end while also crimping into the insulation farther up. Molex crimpers are expensive but Amazon has some "good-enough" knock-offs.
I got this one, but you will need to practice to get a feel for which size die corresponds to your pin/wire combination.
amazon.com link »
----
Also refer to Pinwiki:
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Gottlieb_System_80#Connectors.2C_Connectors.2C_Connectors

Thanks for the comprehensive rundown! I have changed connectors and header pins on my Ballys, so familiar with all that is involved with that. Just wasnt sure how to tackle the edge connectors, but it seems like I might have some of the parts already, at least for the single edge. For the double edge...well that just really sucks!

#5917 17 days ago
Quoted from OTTOgd:

Try this. This image file is actually 3" w X 2.5" h.
[quoted image]

Cool, thank you. We will make a piece to replace that one!

#5918 15 days ago
Quoted from sparky672:

The single sided pins are still obtainable through various sources... including eBay, Amazon, etc.

The single sided edge connector kits (housing with pins) are available from Marco Pinball.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=CONNECTOR%20EDGE%20SINGLE%20PIN%20.156%20INCH&VIEW_SIZE=60&VIEW_INDEX=0&sortOrder=SortKeywordRelevancy

#5919 15 days ago

Yes, Marco is a good reliable source, but also very pricey at 29¢ each for single-sided 08-52-0072 pins.

8¢ each on Amazon:

amazon.com link »

EDIT: Amazon vender: "The Molex Store". Apparently sold out after I posted the link. Available from other vender(s) at a different price.

#5920 15 days ago
Quoted from sparky672:

Yes, Marco is a good reliable source, but also very pricey at 29¢ each for single-sided 08-52-0072 pins.
8¢ each on Amazon:
amazon.com link »

Thats not what im seeing, I see $.32

5810E078-7FAA-4744-BFC2-70B4AC1D30F6 (resized).jpeg
#5922 15 days ago

10 cents, plus a discount when you order a hundred or more, which I always do.

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=08-52-0072

#5923 15 days ago
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:

10 cents, plus a discount when you order a hundred or more, which I always do.
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=08-52-0072

Great Plains shut down no?

#5924 15 days ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Great Plains shut down no?

I believe Ed announced that he was selling the business, but would be filling orders until that time.

#5925 15 days ago

Great Plains has been closed for a few months.

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/
News on the front page of the web site:

Latest store news
10 September 2022 -
After more than 20 years, I have retired.
Great Plains Electronics will not be taking any further orders.
All existing orders have been filled or are in the process of being filled.
To all my customers - it has been my honor serving you.

#5926 14 days ago
Quoted from RGarriott:

Thats not what im seeing, I see $.32

The pins at the Amazon link I posted yesterday are sold by Amazon vender "The Molex Store", are not showing available now... probably sold out after I posted the link. They were $3.99 for Qty 50, which is 8¢ each. I recall they never stocked large quantities with Amazon. "Jump on 'em when you see 'em" kind of thing.

You are showing $15.77 from a totally different vender... "KHC Shop", unfortunately right now the only seller for this Amazon listing.

Screen Shot 2023-01-19 at 12.18.39 PM (resized).png

I would recommend waiting for The Molex Store to restock as their prices were always very good for these pins.

amazon.com link »

From yet a different vender, 5.3¢ each but need to buy larger qty. Molex 08-52-0071 is same pin but sold in bulk strips.

amazon.com link »

Screen Shot 2023-01-19 at 12.33.16 PM (resized).png

Like anything, you need to shop around and grab a deal when you see it. As shown in the next post below mine, Mouser's quantity pricing is pretty good too.

#5927 14 days ago

Mouser Electronics has them for $0.09 if you purchase 100+. Just received another order.

412A0044-4450-4DFF-9950-B0C22412BC88 (resized).png6A471D23-1933-40B0-AE9D-65912B6D639E (resized).jpeg
#5928 14 days ago
Quoted from Snowtrooper:

Mouser Electronics has them for $0.09 if you purchase 100+.

There you go... good deal!

#5929 14 days ago
Quoted from sparky672:

There you go... good deal!

My last order for pins from GPE he sent me the actual bag with the item number he uses to order from Digikey, I believe. Obviously, he ordered a lot at one time.

#5930 14 days ago

The Ball Launch motor on my Hot Shots just quit. It was working fine. I tried an extra motor that I happened to have, still dead.
The voltage to the motor through connector A9J10/P10 should be around 120 VAC. My meter shows 54 VAC there. I cannot figure out where I'm losing 66 or so volts.
Any ideas ad to where to start looking? See pic below.

20230119_175034 (resized).jpg
#5931 14 days ago
Quoted from sparky672:

From yet a different vender, 5.3¢ each but need to buy larger qty. Molex 08-52-0071 is same pin but sold in bulk strips.

I don't like the bulk strips. You have to use small snips to get in close enough and you have to get the width correct. If they are too wide they don't fit in the housing.

#5932 14 days ago
Quoted from Alan_L:

... The voltage to the motor through connector A9J10/P10 should be around 120 VAC. My meter shows 54 VAC there. I cannot figure out where I'm losing 66 or so volts.

Is the "A" relay working? Are the "A" switch contacts fully closed and clean?

7cc01a83c211f66cc32fde92077fb36de0bf01fe (resized).jpg

"VR1" looks like a varistor for clamping transient voltage spikes across the "A" switch contacts. If that is blown, then your switch contacts "A" are going to be arcing, burned, and not fully conductive. Considering the age, the varistor may be fine, but the "A" contacts are still dirty from years of use.

• Verify 120 VAC at the transformer output
• Verify the "A" relay coil is working
• Verify the "A" switch contacts are clean and conductive
• Verify that "VR1" is good (not partially shorted out - should read open or near infinite resistance)

https://electronicshacks.com/how-to-test-a-varistor/

Note: Motor would still work with a bad varistor, but it's harder on the switch contacts (more arcing/burning) and it could potentially be sitting there as a partial/full short across the switch.

#5933 14 days ago
Quoted from RDBowers:

... You have to use small snips to get in close enough and you have to get the width correct. If they are too wide they don't fit in the housing.

All true ... but with a good snips, I never had a problem.

#5934 14 days ago
Quoted from sparky672:

Is the "A" relay working? Are the "A" switch contacts fully closed and clean?

The "A" Relay works when a game is started, the contacts have been card cleaned. I got the A relay to work by repeatedly pressing the Interlock Switch and taping it down with the playfield up.

The varistor doesn't look blown or burnt, it's bright red, but could it still be bad?

It's tough to verify 120vac at the small transformer because there are no lugs like a Bally. The wires go down into the transformer. There are factory crimped wire nuts at the first junction between the green (5) wires coming out of the small transformer and the vio-brn-brn (711) and the vio-vio-vio- (777) wires going to A9J10 through the A switch and varistor. Should I remove these nuts to get a good reading on the transformer output?

Thanks for your help. Turning in, I'll check with you in the morning.

Alan

#5935 14 days ago

I cut myself off.

It's tough to get a good reading on the small transformer output because the wires go down inside the transformer unlike a Bally which has lugs. There are two factory-crimped wire nuts at the junction of the green (5) wires and the vio-brn-brn (711) wires and the vio-vio-vio- (777) wires. Should I remove these nuts to get an accurate reading of the transformer output?

The ohm reading on the varistor is 17.2.

Thanks for your help. Turning in, I'll check in in the morning.

Alan

#5936 14 days ago
Quoted from Alan_L:

I cut myself off.
It's tough to get a good reading on the small transformer output because the wires go down inside the transformer unlike a Bally which has lugs. There are two factory-crimped wire nuts at the junction of the green (5) wires and the vio-brn-brn (711) wires and the vio-vio-vio- (777) wires.

If you cannot get close to the transformer, just take your reading between the two points as indicated below. One lead at pin 2 of the A9J10 connector and the other lead on the 777 wire on the "A" contact switch. Unless you have bad wires/connections, this should be the same thing...

7cc01a83c211f66cc32fde92077fb36de0bf01fe (resized).jpg

If you read something way less than the expected 110/120 VAC, then inspect the wires/connections.

Quoted from Alan_L:

Should I remove these nuts to get an accurate reading of the transformer output?

No. You should be able to read the 120 VAC while everything is connected. Same same.

Quoted from Alan_L:

The ohm reading on the varistor is 17.2.

That's a bad (aka "shorted") varistor. So now you need to inspect the "A" switch contacts as they are likely burned up because of that, and perhaps the source of your issue. Without a working varistor, you'll get a nice long arc of induced high voltage at the "A" switch contacts every time it opens. Eventually, it's so loaded with carbon it acts like a resistor instead of a switch.

You can take a voltage reading across the "A" contacts while the "A" relay is energized (closed switch), as indicated below. If the switch contacts were clean and working, you would see ZERO volts here, and the full 120 volts at the motor. Since you're seeing a lot less voltage at the motor, then you'll probably see a significant voltage drop (reading voltage) across the "A" switch contacts.

7cc01a83c211f66cc32fde92077fb36de0bf01fe (resized).jpg

#5937 13 days ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

I think there is a good write up on pinrepair.com

Got it done.

20230120_185851 (resized).jpg20230120_201701 (resized).jpg
#5938 11 days ago

My original countdown mpu has been draining batteries for quite awhile now and I'm getting tired of it.

I put in a diode and a button battery holder initially and it worked for awhile. I've replaced the diode a few times just incase that was the issue and I have the band facing away from the battery side.

If the ram is bad, can it be replaced on this boardset? Thanks for the help

#5939 10 days ago

The RAM is a 5101 that is probably soldered in. You could remove it, put in a socket, and try a different RAM chip.

#5940 10 days ago

Found the problem with my non-working Hot Shots' Ball Launch Assembly. After all the electrical back and forth, the cause was that some wretched doofus had replaced the set screw in the small white gear with a 1/4" machine screw. Sounds innocent but the outside of the screw was hitting on the bottom of the metal plate opposite the gear. The screw was actually digging into the metal and was preventing the shaft from spinning. Also, all the spinning shafts were gummy and dirty. After correcting those problems and it works great.

Many thanks for your help and advice to sparky672.

#5941 10 days ago
Quoted from Alan_L:

Found the problem with my non-working Hot Shots' Ball Launch Assembly. After all the electrical back and forth, the cause was that some wretched doofus had replaced the set screw in the small white gear with a 1/4" machine screw. Sounds innocent but the outside of the screw was hitting on the bottom of the metal plate opposite the gear. The screw was actually digging into the metal and was preventing the shaft from spinning. Also, all the spinning shafts were gummy and dirty. After correcting those problems and it works great.
Many thanks for your help and advice to sparky672.

You're welcome. You said you were only seeing 54 volts going to the motor. I assume that when you locked up the motor, it pulled the voltage way down. Surprised you weren't blowing fuses.

#5942 10 days ago
Quoted from jdoz2:

My original countdown mpu has been draining batteries for quite awhile now and I'm getting tired of it.
I put in a diode and a button battery holder initially and it worked for awhile. I've replaced the diode a few times just incase that was the issue and I have the band facing away from the battery side.
If the ram is bad, can it be replaced on this boardset? Thanks for the help

Quoted from Robotworkshop:

The RAM is a 5101 that is probably soldered in. You could remove it, put in a socket, and try a different RAM chip.

At that point, I'd just replace the RAM with NVRAM and eliminate the battery entirely.

https://flippers.com/catalog_oc/5101-gottlieb-system-1-nvram-module-p-8739.html

If you'd rather not spend the money, then at least put the new RAM chip into a strip socket so you can more easily install an NVRAM later.

#5943 10 days ago
Quoted from sparky672:

At that point, I'd just replace the RAM with NVRAM and eliminate the battery entirely.
https://flippers.com/catalog_oc/5101-gottlieb-system-1-nvram-module-p-8739.html
If you'd rather not spend the money, then at least put the new RAM chip into a strip socket so you can more easily install an NVRAM later.

I used to do that on all the games but on these Gottlieb boards switched to using a large 4F memory capacitor. I have yet to have one discharge enough to loose the settings. I keep those 5101 NVRAM modules for the early Williams boards.

Either option works well.

#5944 10 days ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

I used to do that on all the games but on these Gottlieb boards switched to using a large 4F memory capacitor.

I had a memory cap on my Volcano before switching to a $30 NVRAM. No complaints with it. The caps only provide trickle for about a year, which may or may not be good enough. For me, I went years without touching the game so I wanted something more modern and robust. Now that it's fixed up so nice, it's getting a lot more use. Meh... I guess it comes down to a balance of personal preference, what you can afford, and what you can live with.

In the OP's case, it sounds like he has to change the RAM anyway.

#5945 10 days ago
Quoted from sparky672:

I had a memory cap on my Volcano before switching to a $30 NVRAM. No complaints with it. The caps only provide trickle for about a year, which may or may not be good enough. For me, I went years without touching the game so I wanted something more modern and robust. Now that it's fixed up so nice, it's getting a lot more use. Meh... I guess it comes down to a balance of personal preference, what you can afford, and what you can live with.
In the OP's case, it sounds like he has to change the RAM anyway.

They are both good options. Most memory caps are 1F - 1.5F in size. Came across some new surplus 4F caps and with those and the availability issues getting some NVRAM started using them on some games. Been happy with them. Will continue to use those and NVRAM on machines. Just not fond of batteries unless a coin cell.

Also, Volcano is an awesome game! Have one and don't see that leaving.....

#5946 6 days ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

They are both good options. Most memory caps are 1F - 1.5F in size. Came across some new surplus 4F caps and with those and the availability issues getting some NVRAM started using them on some games.

I have several Sys1 machines with original CPU boards that I have installed 1.5F mem caps. They have worked for me without issue...but it is rare for them to go 1 week without being turned on.
Screenshot 2023-01-27 124906 (resized).jpgWhen reviewing some other discussions, I find comments about installing a resistor on one of the mem cap leads to prevent a huge in rush of current when the capacitor is fully drained. As I said, I haven't noticed a problem, but would prefer to do things the safest way possible.

What is the right size the resistor? I would guess there has to some equation based on the size of the capacitor (in my case 1.5 F), the current available (? mA), the voltage drop (should be about 5 V), the time to fill the mem cap (say 15 minutes) and the resistor value.

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.

#5947 6 days ago

Anyone have a spare 2" flipper for Excalibur laying around? https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-21464

It's out of stock everywhere.

#5948 6 days ago
Quoted from frisbez:

Anyone have a spare 2" flipper for Excalibur laying around? https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-21464
It's out of stock everywhere.

If I'm reading this correctly, Steve has them in stock.

http://pbresource.com/flippers.html#2in

Also looks like Marco does too:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/C-11241

Unless you need the shaft, as well.

#5949 6 days ago
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:

If I'm reading this correctly, Steve has them in stock.
http://pbresource.com/flippers.html#2in
Also looks like Marco does too:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/C-11241
Unless you need the shaft, as well.

Yea I need both!

#5950 6 days ago
Quoted from RDBowers:

What is the right size the resistor? I would guess there has to some equation based on the size of the capacitor (in my case 1.5 F), the current available (? mA), the voltage drop (should be about 5 V), the time to fill the mem cap (say 15 minutes) and the resistor value.

Found the answer. To reach 99% of a full charge the equation is,

R=t / (5 * C)

R is resistance in Ohms
t is time in seconds
C is capacitance in Farads

For my example R = 900 s / (5 * 1.5 F) = 120 Ohms

So a 1.5 F memory capacitor connected to a 5 V source inline with a 120 Ohm resistor will take 15 minutes (900 s) to go from no charge to 99%. Theoretically speaking!

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