Custom roms in the works for bad girls and lights camera action, to normalize mystery awards and some other scoring. Stay tuned!

Of course as soon as I sell mine!! Ugh.

Duplicate

Anyone needing these for their back glass? PM me.

Tint (resized).jpg

^^^^^^^^^^^^^ gone^^^^^^^^^^

ISO: Roller Disco plastic set
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/iso-gottlieb-roller-disco-plastic-set#post-7184794

deleted

Looking for (partial, broken, whole) plastics for Gold wings and Hollywood heat.

I am working on my transformer panel and realized the 25 V 10,000 uf capacitor is probably original , I have a 35V 15,000 uf on hand , can I use it or is it slightly to big for the application ?

Genesis btw

Thanks

Exactly which one is that per schematic? Without looking at the schematics for your game, AFAIK, those caps are all used for smoothing out DC so a bigger one is going to be better, within reason. IMO, going from 10,000 to 15,000 uF is reasonable and will provide moderately smoother DC voltage.

Increasing the voltage rating is very good as it's giving you a more durable component.

Thank you , the schematics do call for the 25V 10,000 uf . I just wanted to be sure it was not to far out , I had read 10% higher on uf was ok .

I am not able to set my 5V power supply trim pot any higher than 4.8 V , so I started at the transformer working my way up cleaning fuse blocks and such . Ground mods also need to be addressed .

It all started when my under playfield fuse F14 kept blowing during gameplay as soon as the drop target solenoid fired . working towards that next .

I believed you. I meant that I would have liked to have seen it in the actual circuit to confirm that it is a DC smoothing capacitor. That was just my assumption.

Sorry , I wasn't very smooth in reading that correctly . On the basic print out I have it is the 12V from a bridge rectifier, capacitor , to the 5V power supply

Again not very helpful , but I do not have a PDF file on this schematic yet , unfortunately just half the manual .

Then it's the smoothing capacitor and using a higher capacitance value is beneficial. Why not go even higher? The cap would be larger and more expensive, while the amount of smoothing starts to diminish.

Thanks for you help , I will use the one I have at the moment . Getting electronics up here is difficult unless you buy bulk or have the exact part numbers .

Cheers

Try Digikey.ca - $8 flat shipping for next day anywhere in Canada. Don't need the exact part number, just set a range for voltage, capacitance, and lead configuration and choose anything in stock.

Not sure if this is the best place to post this but figured it's a good place to start.

On my Counterforce I recently acquired, I'm noticing an issue on the player four 6 digit display. It is dropping the 1 anywhere it appears in the score.
It is only happening on player four. All other displays registering correctly during gameplay.

Example of a score:

2345 6 What should be there would be 234516 Another example: 2 3445 should be 213445

When I go into diagnostics and run the displays, they all register correctly.

I pulled the display and cleaned up the contacts on the board and visually all the wiring looks pinned nice and tight and clean on the connector.

Also, the 4 digit display accurately shows ball # in play but at the end of the game no match # is shown. (game is set in freeplay if that matters)

What should I be looking for to solve this problem?

When you physically swap displays 3 and 4, does the problem stay on player 4 or move over to player 3? That test will tell you if you need to look at the chips on the display board or the chips on the MPU.

Thank you for this response. Why didn't I think to swap and see what happens....silly me....lemme see what happens.....

Well...............it is something on the board. Swapped player 4 with 3 display and the problem moved with the board. So it is an IC chip then eh?

I am really curious as to how the "1" works during a 19 test but not during a game. Weird!

Those display boards are super simple and both chips are the same.

Here is the test procedure:

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/File:TestingUDN6118AndUDN7180.jpg

Also make sure edge connections are clean and none of the solder joints to the glass display are cracked. Sometimes the leads going into the glass crack off too.

I forgot about Digikey, last time navigating the trifurcon section was baffling ….

Going to place an order here shortly , any suggestions for additional parts I should purchase for the future ?

Extras for system 80 B ( Genesis), or even Bally SS ( Paragon)

Well................I'm pretty darn sure it did show when I did a "19" but just ran it again on now it is not showing the 1 at all. I pulled two of the displays and compared readings on the IC's and never did get .740 on my "good" display and the one not producing the 1. Readings were identical so maybe my DMM is out of calibration. I think I was getting around .710 on both of them.

So, my issue is still unfixed and wondering if I should send my meter out to Fluke for calibration now.

Ordinarily I would use Great Plains Electronics for that sort of thing, but since the permanent closure of the store I've returned to Digikey. The part numbers used on GPE are the same, so if you find the part you're looking for on the GPE site you can find it anywhere.

That makes a lot more sense!

It does not have to be EXACTLY 0.740; after all these chips are old. Maybe your bad display board has a broken solder connection for that digit/segment combination? You could have a lead cracked off the glass display too. Check it over carefully. Double-check the edge connection fingers too. Last resort, displays are easy to find on eBay if you can't get it figured out.

I don't think those ics are logic chips. They work more like transistors. There's a single HV line in and if the data line for one of the lines goes high then the HV is passed to the output of that line. I don't think diode testing will work.

I did build a tester for these chips and you could probably duplicate.with a power supply and a multimeter. You would attach 5Vdc to the HV pin and then 5v to the toggle pin for an output. If that line works then you would be able to read the incoming voltage at the output pin. Using the datasheet is vitally important here. I would also be quick about it so your not sending DC into the display glass for long assuming you do not remove the chip

They are logic chips and can be tested using a DMM in diode mode. (Logic gates are made with transistors.)

See this: https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/File:TestingUDN6118AndUDN7180.jpg

and this: https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Gottlieb_System_80#UDN6118_and_Other_Display_Logic_Chip_Failures

You don't need to remove the chip and it is accurate enough. I used this method myself yesterday to test both chips on eight display boards and it was 100% reliable.

Excellent info!

Finally found the embed option

Parts - Wanted

ISO: Gottlieb Roller Disco Plastic set Archived

Wanted! - “My roller disco is on route and one plastic has now broken. Looking for a new plastic set, they can be used, but looking for not broken. Let me know what you have!”

2022-11-23

Duluth, MINNESOTA

northvibe

Wanted

Archived after: 88 days

Viewed: 127 times

Status: Not sold

Could someone advise me on how to go about testing all of the relevant voltages on my System 80 B . I looked for a sticky , but nothing came up .

Basically what lead on the DMM to what lug on the transformer = desired voltage

I wish there were actual test points built in to these boards with labeled voltages like Bally .

Thank you

I'm not sure exactly, but on some transformers they label the voltage between the legs.
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Gottlieb_System_80

Voltages are labeled in the schematics. Which game? I would advise obtaining a full manual before tackling any electrical testing or work.

As far as a sticky, everything has been compiled into the Pinwiki site. It's very comprehensive.

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Gottlieb_System_80

I cant seem to find anything related to the transformer module on Pinwiki .

I do have the full schematic manual for my Genesis but was confused about where to put my leads. Reading older posts members mention black lead on post "X' and red lead on rectifier post " Y" will read ...

I just wanted to check for peace of mind , not a big deal .

testing a transformer is VERY DANGEROUS. If you do not know what you're doing or haven't done much DMM'ing before it may be worth skipping and testing voltages at the fuses, power supply or bridge rectifiers.

Transformers usually have multiple AC outputs and you'd need to go ac and put your black and red on the two lines for that one voltage but it can be very easy to mess up, or slip and poof you get hurt or the transformer.

Have you taken voltage tests at the pins of the power supply or fuses?

Thanks for the word of caution .

I'm no expert, but yes I have used my multimeter pretty frequently . No stranger to being cautious in that regard .

I will check the voltages at the fuses and power supply , just wondered if there was any other test that would need to be done from the transformer lugs to gleen another valuable reading .

if not , I'm moving on .

I have to replace one 1-5/8" oval green insert on my Hollywood heat playfield.
PBresource are out of stock, Pinball life wants $43 to ship to Norway ... does anyone have one spare they would be willing to put in an envelope and send to me ?

I've only had to do it twice on a gottlieb sys1. I had mapped the transformer out, triple checked and then did the ac tests and iirc it brought in dc to do something for the displays or what not. had to be super careful but for all the ac's you'll have 2 tabs. the sys1 was labeled but hard to read on that old paper.

I'd start with the bridge rectifiers in the cab, at the fuse holders (blk on ground, red on a fuse tab to see power) and then the connector going to the power board. that should be in the pinwiki of what pin should be what. if those show funky numbers then start investigating the transformer but man those don't go bad "often" you say that and poof it does

Thank you ,

I will check all those points you mentioned . This started because my 5V power supply was causing an issue where the sound would go all scratchy and pop . Pressing on the top connector would temporarily remedy this , so I replaced all the wire connector pins and inspected the board . It appears the soldering repair had been done on the back already , no cracking . I proceeded to check the voltage at the pot , only to discover it was low at 4.3V , attempted to dial it up , but would not go past 4.75 V . I have placed an order for a replacement , and in waiting wanted to research more on the subject . Just in case its not the potentiometer .

I figured start at the beginning , work my way up .

Big daddy enterprises, if they are still active, used to have kits for rebuilding things like the power supply. Totally worth doing.

sys1 board set available from Roller Disco

SOLD!

Parts - For Sale

FS: Gottlieb sys 1 board set Archived

Used, poor condition - “These were pulled out of a Roller Disco. RD did not work fully with these in it. When I diagnosed it, it could of been an interconnect harness issue or mpu. Game turned on but out...”

2022-10-25

Duluth, MINNESOTA

northvibe

120 (OBO)

Archived after: 42 days

Viewed: 125 times

Status: Sold (amount private)

Looking for the following sound board and aux sound boards if anyone has spares.

Bad Girls Sound Board - MA886-717

and

Aux sound board - MA1033 or MA1294

Parts - Wanted

ISO: Gottlieb Sound Cards For Bad Girls Archived

Wanted! - “Looking for the sound card and aux sound card for Bad Girls. MA-886-717 and MA1033”

2022-12-27

Joppatowne, MD

La4s

Wanted

Archived after: 58 days

Viewed: 142 times

Status: Not sold

Hi guys,

I need help. I got a cleopatra, swapped the boards with a brand new Janin, fired it up.
It's all set correctly and all good, EXCEPT for the coils; it tells me that all coils are permanently stuck, except for the relays which test fine.

Any idea on what I should check? Many thanks in advance!

Did you swap to the all in 1 flippp board or the mpu only?
Did you repin the connectors in the head?

The all in 1.
Not repinned, original connectors, don't have any of this kind to replace them.

brand new doesn't mean perfect sometime, could be a blown transistor on that board already- Had that on my Rottendog brand new board.

Found I think; one of the coil is shorted

https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=Tx+sector+piggy

I have this part of anyone is looking since Marco is sold out.

Ok so I turned on my Genesis to check voltages on the fuse block near the transformer here is what I got ….

Mine ——------- Schematic
F1- 13.4 v ac ——- 12 v ac
F2- 12.3 v ac ——- 11 v ac
F3- ? ?? ——------ - 32 v ac ( under assembly , trying to find a test point somewhere else )
F4- 29.4 v ac ——- 27 v ac
F5- 9 v ac ——---- 8 v ac
F6- 7.3 v ac. ——- 6.3 v ac

118V ac at service outlet

+ on bridge rectifiers ( left to right )
12.2 v dc
36 v dc
7 v dc

Test switch says all switches open
Solenoid test fires and blows F14 1A fuse under the play field ( target bank reset , outhole )

Check everything, nothing obvious, replace fuse , turn on power , now it fires a solenoid and locks up . Some lights on , turned off , @&#$!

Can I upload the 2 pages of schematic to this thread to view, Or is that not allowed with Gottlieb/ mods ?

Are you measuring those ac voltages to ground? You have to measure to the return on AC which means finding the lug on the transformer

I thought something was wrong , yes that was to ground. I re-tested with return leg and updated post above with correct values .