Additionally, Spring Break will power on with music sometimes. Something is out of whack. I know the big resistor on the back of the display board looks like crap. Also, the battery’s were removed from the mpu along time ago.

Does not matter when battery was removed if the corrosion was not dealt with properly. Mine was removed more than 12 years before I finally got all the damage repaired.

Just an update. I replaced all 3 of these pop bumper boards and got them working again. There was different issues with all 3.

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Good morning, Im looking for a 19 pin Single sided edge connector with Rib between pins 4 and 5, pins 7 and 8, pins 11 and 12 & pins 15 and 16. This connector goes to the display for the 80B games. Im needing it for my TX-Sector. If anyone has a spare harness for the 80b display/speaker panel or even just the display connector that they would sell pls let me know. Thanks

i looked hard for those before and could not find any online... your best bet is https://www.docentelectronics.com/httpdocs/AmusementGames/Pinball/Gottlieb/system%2080%20AB.htm check with them their 19 pin ones will work with display, which they should, their ordering process is dodgy but i did before and got my parts so...

I might have one. I have several sets of harness. I'm on my way out of town this morning. Message me Tuesday night and I'll look.

That would be awesome. Here is a couple pictures of the other end of the speaker and display harness.

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If your talking about the connector at the end of that mini harness. Sorry I already know I don't have that one.

Are you looking for an A10-P2 male and female as pictured?

The harness i really need

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The A10J4 is no big deal I can just use a generic connector for that and run some new wires.

Sorry I wasn't able to help. The guy running these auctions looks to have parted out some gottliebs. ebay.com link: itm

Also you might contact arcade boneyard

I have started producing all of the single sided edge connectors used on Gottlieb System 1, 80, 80A and 80B games.
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Single Sided Edge Connectors promo.pdf
I have worked out distribution in Canada. https://pinballleds.ca/index.php?route=product/product&path=95&product_id=564
Still working on distribution in the US.

Excellent. So how do I go about getting a few connectors from ya? Just order off your website?

If you need it now, use https://pinballleds.ca/index.php?route=product/product&path=95&product_id=564 and it will ship from Canada. If you can wait 6 to 8 weeks I hope to have distribution set up in the US.

Do these connectors have the ribs in them or does that even matter?

The connectors are keyed, exactly like the originals.
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Cool. They look great. You will be seeing my order. Thanks.

Hope you are happy with them!
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This is a really cool service. I might be reaching out as well.

Different question has anyone done the brain damage to covert a SYS 1 chimes to something electronic /speaker based. Ideally I’d like to be able unplug the chimes and plug in something electronic. For example the later SYS 1 boards with a speaker. Doesn’t look like it would be too hard just haven’t done the research yet. Trying to control the volume of the pin. I’d also like to leave the chimes installed so I could flip it back if I wanted to.

I'm going to assume, yeah i know, that since you can easily replace the tone board with chimes the reverse would be easily possible as well. i have done 3 machines the opposite direction, replaced the electronic sounds with chimes. I like the chimes much better, but definitely no easy volume control.

So I have an odd one. On my Cleopatra the pop bumpers scoring switches are missing the second leaf. What’s left of the second leaf has a wire on it. If I short it at the connections of the switch it scores correctly. All three pop bumpers are missing their second leaf and score correctly when shorted.
Was this factory or done by an operator or something else?

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Sounds like an operator didn't like all the free points from how frequently the ball is in the pops.

My Genesis was like this. Shady opperator. I would chalk it up to "It just broke" but mine had 3 of the 4 pop bumpers like that.

Just picked up an untested The Games, and working through it. The game powered on, the displays would read a single 0, and the credits would start incrementing to 8, and then the game would lock.

First things first, the game has a rotten dog power supply, and thankfully had a remote battery pack, as the batteries had started to leak. I clipped the battery pack, and tried powering the game again; same thing as before.

I started looking at the coin mechs, and someone had clipped the coin switch wires, and had tied the wires (literally twisted them on) to the closed switch lug, which explained the constant credit increment at game power up. I powered the game and it appeared to enter attract mode, and the displays read all 0s, and went back and forth to single 0’s with the attract mode.

I touched one of the previously tied wires to the closed side of the coin switch lug to add a credit, and the display indicated a credit. I hit start, heard the game start music (!), the tilt and game end relays clicked like it was starting, then the game reset back to attract mode.

I haven’t really done anything else except burnish the card edges and reseat the connectors and reseat the reset board connector. Im guessing this is a capacitor issue somewhere, as the game seemingly wants to start, but crashes right when the solenoids would power to start a game.

Where do I go next fellow system 80’ers?

Im including a pic of the borked coin mechs just to see if anything looks suspect there.

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I’d reseat all your display connections and keep them slightly off of what they used to be. Start with the ones on the board. Then I’d try to borrow a mpu and see if that’s causing most of your problems.

Before you go too much further, I'd triple check all of the wire colors to the manual and make sure that everything in the coin door is all kosher.... but....

With the rottendogs, always check your dip switches... My guess is that doesn't change a whole ton when it comes to coin door stuff, but you never know.

They couldn't simply take 1/2 second to adjust the stationary blade back a little so it couldn't close? Geeeez!

Why do System 80s have the label at the power switch reading "Warning - before making any adjustments, repairs or board replacements, turn on/off switch to off, leave power cord plugged in"?

Because making repairs with power on will likely destroy the game.

Also, leaving the power cord connected will keep the game grounded so you avoid nasty electrical shocks.

Yeah I didn't get the part about leaving it plugged in. Then was thinking maybe it could help keep you from zapping chips with static electricity because you'll likely ground out the static just opening the game up?

Any charge that you accumulate in your body will discharge to ground - if you touch a grounded part first.
You will get a (in most cases) mild shock.
But - if you touch anything not grounded, the charge will pass through that component on it's way to ground.
So if you touch any boards before touching ground you may damage ICs and such.

I suppose I should run a new ground wire to my BH's backbox lock because I borrowed it for the ground source for all my circuit board ground mods. Now it makes sense, the lock's the first thing you're going to touch.

I figure you guys will know the answer to this. I am struggling to get some of the roll over switches on my Cleopatra to fire consistently. Some of the switches won't trip if itis "slow" ball roll over. Others always trip. They all work just some might not trip on the first roll over. What is the proper tool to clean these switches. marcospec says not to use flexstone on 1977 and newer SSDs. Well this is a 1977 machine. Just trying to figure the correct abrasive to clean up the switch contacts.

A business card

Never use flexstone on any game that is a solid state game, regardless of year. For your Cleopatra, just use a business card, folded paper, dollar bill, etc.

I have found cardstock dabbed in acetone good for cleaning solid state contacts, worse case I have use a thin strip of scotchbrite to LIGHTLY go over the contacts when nothing else has worked.

Occasionally I have had some stubborn contacts that the cardstock and paper won't clean. While you never want to file or sand those gold contacts I have had excellent results with the super fine lapping sheets:

https://taytools.com/collections/supplies-abrasives-3m-lapping-microfinishing-film/products/3m-lapping-microfinishing-film

The finest ones 8000, 14000, or 60000 grit have helped with some switches and those are still working well.

If the batteries started to leak, I would suspect something on the MPU could be hosed. I would test with another MPU if possible. Otherwise, follow the PinWiki procedure for cleaning the MPU from alkaline damage and replace all affected components on the MPU. The battery damage is centered in the reset section that affects how the machine boots up. I would also add the new reset generator, which eliminates a lot of components and makes booting more reliable.

See: https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Gottlieb_System_80#Battery_Leakage_and_Corrosion

Secondly, the Molex edge connectors are old and worn out. You can re-pin the single-sided connectors as those Molex pins are still available. For the double-sided connectors between MPU and Driver, you can obtain a kit from Docent Electronics that contains new wires and connectors that you install into your existing plastic edge-connector housing. It includes a second ground wire, which virtually eliminates the need for the ground mods.

These two things resolved 90% of the issues I was having with my System 80 game.

Not every Gottlieb problem is caused by capacitors. Clean power is important so change the main capacitor if it hasn't been already, but I doubt the issue you describe is capacitor related. It's more likely a bad pin in one of the edge connectors or battery corrosion on MPU. You just need to methodically troubleshoot your way to the root of the issue.

Still working through this...

As to the battery leak, the batteries were in a remote pack and far away from the boards; there is no battery damage on the mpu.

I was able to get the coin door wiring squared away, but the test switch is acting a little strange, which I will detail below.

So currently, here's where I am:

Game powers on, the two relays click about two seconds later, and the displays all light up with "00000000" Game appears to enter attract mode.

If I add a credit by sliding the arm on one of the two coin switches, it will add a credit, but it is dependent on the orientation of the test button, if that makes sense. The test button is a three-way momentary switch, with left (hold), middle (hold), and right (momentary/clickable); if it is in the middle position, the left coin switch will not add a credit (but will make the credit sound), and the right coin switch WILL add a credit. (The same in the opposite scenario if the test switch is in the left position). 50% of the time, the act of adding a credit, the very first time, will cause the game to reset, then it will take credits from either coin switch, whatever position the test switch is in, and not reset. Very weird.

Once the game has a credit, when you hit the start button, it plays startup music, but then the game resets (and plays the sound that I can only guess is the "tilt" sound sequence, but I'm not sure as I haven't played a "The Games" in a couple years and don't remember), seemingly right before the playfield coils would energize. Maybe once every ten times trying this, it will actually kick the ball to the shooter lane, but still reset.

Another oddity with the test button, is that I'm able to enter test mode by clicking it to the right, and it will stay in test mode "01" seemingly ideffinitely; if I try to advance further, the game may make it to test "02" or "03", but then resets. If I click the button really fast, or just hold it to the right, it must have gotten to some type of coil test, because I have heard it cycle a coil, and then reset.

I was planning on adding the ground jumper to the interconnect harness this evening. I'm thinking it's either that, or corrupted roms, but I'm not even close yet.

Confirming you checked all your tilt switches?

It does not matter. When they leak, the fumes travel and cause corrosion. Just saying, be absolutely sure. Sometimes the MPU looks fine, like mine, but it's not. I had cracked resistors and broken transistor legs that could not be seen with the naked eye.

I doubt what you're describing is because of a bad ground. You need to get a set of schematics and do some authentic troubleshooting. Compare your existing wiring to the factory schematics because it sounds like you might be dealing with somebody else's modification gone bad. I'm not 100% sure about the 3-position test switch on your game so that's something else to verify with a schematic.

coin door slam switch is closed, playfield slam switch is open, tilt bob is open...

Is there another mystery one I'm not aware of, haha?

I'm finalizing my order from Steve tonight, and an actual manual is at the top of the list.

I'm currently asking around the local pinball crowd to see if anyone has a spare, known good mpu for me to try and see if it's an actual mpu issue.

Well I think your first problem is this shouldn't be there I don't think. Unless this era skinny coin door Mylstar games (of which there are only a few) had a lot of different versions that switch should just be a straight up N/O momentary switch.

Reading what your wrote about the process of trying to boot a game, I would guess that yes, there might be a slam switch somewhere in the game that's still closed (or open as it may be) and weird coin door wiring is preventing it from registering until you start a game.

You should be able to cross reference your coin door wiring (colors and what not) with the Alien Star manual which (like a few gottlieb games) is floating around on the internet.
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I agree. It it were mine, I would disconnect and isolate ALL the wires from this 3-position switch to see what happens. The default test button is N.O. (normally open) so disconnecting these wires should not have any effect on normal game play. Tape them up so they don't touch each other. It really sounds like a free-play mod gone awry.

If everything works properly after disconnecting the switch, then I would obtain the correct momentary switch and re-attach only the correct wires.

Then if you want free-play, follow the PinWiki directions for a simple mod. It's basically a jumper wire from the play button to one of the coin switches; it adds one credit whenever you press play. (important note: you must use a coin switch that is configured 1 coin = at least 1 credit). PinWiki shows it wired into the main cabinet by the diode array. I did mine on the door and added a hidden switch to disable it.

Or I guess realistically there could be a problem with the A10P1 or A1J5 connector or the diode board. You might want to triple inspect those and make sure there isn't any tomfoolery going on there that might be making the slam switch slip.

Also note that in the Alien Star schematic, there's also an amendment that shows you how to switch over to a three chute coin door, using what I'm assuming were some wiring that, maybe, in a stock skinny coin door setup would have allowed for only 2 switches...

Anyway, the schematic will tell all about it.

Good luck, keep us posted, and send us a picture of the boards.

Just got home and clipped the “test switch” out. Turned the game on, flicked the left side coin switch to add a credit; the game made the credit noise but didn’t add a credit. Flicked the right side one, and the game reset. Flicked it again, and it added a credit. Hit the start button, and same thing as before.

Will get back to it later tonight after the kiddos are asleep.

That's exactly what it's supposed to do if it's setup to take multiple coins. Is the game configured for 1 coin (1 flick) = 1 credit?

Not sure about the reset; maybe you just have something wrong on the right chute. Maybe the right chute's wires are crossed with the slam switch circuit somehow.

The dip switch settings on the MPU configure how the chutes take coins and convert them to credits. It's possible it's configured for multiple coins. I have one of my slots setup so 2 coins = 3 credits; first coin is a beep with no credit and second coin beeps and adds the 3 credits.

Switch 14 ON will force left & right chutes the same (forces right to match the left despite other settings)

How are your switches set?

EDIT: Originally posted switches for System 80.

The following is for 80A, from a Caveman manual...

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