Slight adjustment. The tall posts (1-3/16") are used on System 1 playfield for,
1) single sided lane guides or metal sheilds with a 10 point switch under them, or
2) on either sides of a wiireform ball gate.

This works for the post counts in all the System 1 manuals.

Hey guys

I’m in the middle of a Countdown restore. Read reading in various places about the “must-perform System 1 ground mod”, but I’m coming up empty finding a thread on the subject. I just want to shore it up to prevent any issues in the future & read up any suggested changes.

My game has the pascal all-in-one board it btw.

Or this:
http://www.pinrepair.com/sys1/

I'm not positive but I think all of the grounds mods don't have to be performed if using the Pascal All in One.

Recently brought home a super clean TX-Sector. Got it set up, played a few games, turned it off, and flipped it back on a little while later to find that I no longer have sound.

I noticed the LED on the sound board doesn’t flash. Game boots and plays just fine, just no sound.

I also checked the 5v on the CPU and it was 7.5 (YIKES). I tried adjusting the voltage with the pot on the board, but it was completely unresponsive. I’m venturing to guess this is keeping the sound board from booting.

Anyway, I bought a replacement voltage regulator board (and an auxiliary voltage regulator board just for completeness).

Game hasn’t been run for an extended period of time with the voltage out of spec like this, but what are the odds I damaged the sound board permanently? Is there anything I should check in the interim?

Edit: ground mods have been done. At least, the mods in the lower cabinet.

Thanks guys!

Looking to buy an NOS playfield for a Gottlieb Rack Em Up. Please PM me with anything you might have. Also may be interested in other NOS playfields for 80a titles. Thanks.

Parts - Wanted

Wanted: Gottlieb Rack Em Up NOS playfield Archived

Wanted! - “Looking to buy an NOS playfield for a Gottlieb Rack Em Up. Please message me with anything you might have. Also may be interested in NOS playfields for other system 80a titles. Tha...”

2022-11-28

Greenville, NC

Tokkentakker

Wanted

Archived after: 112 days

Viewed: 248 times

Status: Not sold

Can anyone here direct me to where I can procure an apron decal for our Incredible Hulk apron? The center one seems to have lost some of its original graphics and it was repainted by an amateur
Thanks

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Is there any reason everybody uses those decals for these rather than someone making stencils? I figure if someone could get scans of these apron designs they wouldn't be too hard to make...

Thanks!

Hulk shop out pictures for anyone to reference later. The only two taller posts on this machine are under the metal plate up to the right of the spinner.

I installed the lower right metal ball guide after these photos.

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You can make your own graphics with a cameo cutter. See this thread—-> https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/to-save-a-sorcerer-or-how-to-spend-3000-on-a-1200-machine/page/2#post-5153916

You're making me miss mine! Only game I've ever regretted selling.

Edit: Whops that's not true, I've regretted selling every game I've ever sold other than The Amazing Spider-Man

I've got a total noob question. I have a Sinbad solid state that has a burned out bulb in one of the left outlane rollovers and a burned out pop bumper bulb. Are there table-specific bulbs that I need to purchase or are they generic to all system 1s?

Thank you!

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HELP!!

Doing a full Joker Poker restoration, NOS or NEAR PERFECT coin door and bezel needed from System 1 game (some Ems from around that time have the same door as well)

I can't send the metal out to be chromed until I have one. I have a pretty nice one I could trade plus cash. I also have a NOS System 80 coin door skin I could trade, plus cash

All freshly stenciled, and stuck on the bowler....

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#44 bulb
No, luckily it's not pinball specific! On all system-1s the bulb for the GI (General Illumination) and the bumpers are classic #44.
Extract from 1980 parts catalog
Extract from 1978 parts catalog

I might have a bezel for you, I will check later and PM you if I do. Here's a picture of my coin door after some serious rubbing and buffing.

door (resized).jpg

I probably have a box of bulbs you can have.

Got a rather interesting Diamond Lady in the workshop at the moment with a non-vitrigraph playfield. I was pretty certain all Diamond Lady's had Vitrigraph playfields and I can't find any mention of this design of playfield online, so whether this is a very rare playfield or what I don't know, thought it might be of interest to a few of you though IMG-20220723-WA0014 (resized).jpgIMG-20220723-WA0011 (resized).jpgIMG-20220723-WA0013 (resized).jpg

Very nice! Clean it up and take some super high quality photos! Maybe one day someone will want to reproduce it

Thank you! You really came through for me.

Strangely enough I just picked up a wood playfield diamond lady at Allentown.

Had to do some work to get it 100% but it’s such a great game.

From my research, some vitrograph playfield had a defect that pretty much ruined the playfield. Gottlieb would replace those with a wood one since they switched back to regular playfields. It might have even switched towards the end of the diamond lady run. It’s all lost info nowadays.

Sorry been lurking in here since I snag the game and still need to change some bulbs lol
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Long-time listener, first-time caller. I was getting my fine Genesis ready for Cal Extreme, and wanted to put it on free-play. Saw all this shtuff about new roms, but wanted to remind everyone who has an 80B machine of this easy and reversible jumper that makes the right advance button (for entering initials) increment credits. Just jumper thusly on the diode board near the coin door.

My Genesis will be for sale at CAX too:

Machine - For Sale

Genesis. Price Drop! Archived

Partially shopped/refurbished - “Pretty nice Genesis. Fully led'ed if yer into that. It does look pretty cool. Plays 100%. I'm in San Luis Obispo. Can/will bring to Cal Extreme in Santa Clara at the end of the mon...”

2022-07-17

San Luis Obispo, CA

fireball2

2,250 (OBO)

Archived after: 77 days

Viewed: 998 times

Status: Not sold

Per pinWiki:
3.6.4 Free Play for System 80B Games
A System 80B game does not have a built-in free play option available, so the fallback option to add credits is usually to open the coin door and trip the coin switches. However, there are a couple of methods that can be used to avoid doing that.

3.6.4.1 Free Play Diode Board Modification
Locate the diode board used for all of the coin door switches. Remove the diode board. Add a jumper between pin 4 and pin 10 of the diode board on the solder side of the board, (this can be done on the component side instead). Make certain that the jumper is soldered onto the banded side of the diodes. This jumper essentially ties the right advance button on the front of the cabinet to the center coin switch.

Now, when the right advance button is pressed, credits will be added to the game. There have not been any ill side effects observed when the right advance button is pressed while scrolling through characters used to enter high score initials.

An alternative method that achieves the same result is to use a jumper wire with minigrabber ends and clip them on to the bottom of the 4th and 9th diodes (from the right) on the front of the board. This requires no soldering and you don't even have to remove the diode board.

The jumper modification should work on games from Chicago Cubs Triple Play to Excalibur. It is unconfirmed if it will work on Hot Shots, Bad Girls, Big House, and Bone Busters, Inc.

780px-GTB_Sys80B_Coin_Door_Diode_Board_Jumper_Added_To_Front (resized).jpg

$2250 for a clean working Genesis ?! You're pretty much giving it away! GLWTS!

I didn't even realize Genesis had the diode board before I swapped ROMs...

Thank you! I'm kind of surprised mice elf...

FIXED!! I wanted to follow up on the repair and diagnostic procedure just in case anyone else runs into a similar problem. Credit goes to a very helpful pinsider, yfz450, who reached out to me and went well beyond the call of duty to help me get this going again. Sound board issues seem difficult to diagnose, so I want to share my procedure in case anyone else finds themselves in a similar situation.

Problem: 5v Power supply was sending too high a voltage through the boards. Soundboard failed to boot. Game had no sound.
First repair: Replaced both the 5v power supply (A2) AND the Aux Power Supply (A5) (which also contains the amplifier circuit). Verified all voltages, all were in spec.

Outcome: Still no sound, however, the heartbeat LED on the soundboard indicated it was booting now.

I swapped the soundboard from TX-Sector into my Robo War. The board worked find in Robo-War, so I know that there wasn't an issue with the sound board. I even flip flopped the ROMs around, so I knew the ROMs were good as well (i.e. kept the TX Sector ROMs in the soundboard while installed in Robo-War.) However, still no sound when installed in TX.

Moving forward: Z13 on the driverboard sends the soundcall signals to the soundboard. I dug out my trusty logic probe and probed the pins. In attract mode, it tested: Pin 1: high, Pin 2: low, Pin 3: High, Pin 4: Low (this pattern continued across all pins). I compared this to my Robo-War: Same logic levels. I swapped out driver boards just to be sure, and It didn't change the situation in TX. Still no sound.

Moving farther upstream: Z27 and Z31 on the MPU board feeds signals to the driver board to generate sound call information. Again, pulled out my logic probe. In attract mode the logic levels were:

Z27

Pin 1: High
2: low
3: high
4: low
5 high
6: low
7: low
8: low
9: blank (no signal, neither high nor low)
10: low
11: high
12: low
13: high
14: high

Z31 (which is a SN7408N)

1-7: all low
8-13: all low
14: high

These tested identically to the chips in my working Robo-War as well. When starting a game, and hitting targets, pins 8-12 can be seen pulsing through the probe--indicating that calls are being generated.

So, what now? I've verified that the soundboard and the ROMs are working. I've verified that the driverboard is working, and I've also verified that the MPU is working. Maybe sage the game to chase out the spirits and electrical gremlins?

CONNECTORS! It has to be the connectors, right?
Nope. Connnectors are clean, tight, and untarnished.

Ground problems?
Nope. All the ground mods are done.

Downtrodden and exhausted, I ended up switching out the new Aux Power board I got into Robo War. LO AND BEHOLD: No sound in Robo War! I finally narrowed it down.

Chalk this up to the hardest lesson I've had in a while: Don't assume a board is good just because it's new. The replacement A5 Aux Power Supply Board was a dud right out of the box. I reinstalled the original Aux Board, and all is right with the world again.

My best guess as to what happened: That $hitty potentiometer took a dump on the 5v power supply and caused the sound board to fail to boot. I replaced both power supplies thinking I'd future proof it. Aux board was a dud, and didn't need to be replaced.

In a way, I'm glad this happened. System 80B repairs aren't documented too much, and I didn't really understand the platform as well as other platforms like WPC or System 11 so this was an excellent exercise in understanding it.

Achievement unlocked!

C023D44B-A0DD-4A7A-8855-65BB022E594E (resized).jpeg

Just an FYI, I now have all of the Hot Shots ramps available. This news is more notable than usual, as I believe this makes every System 80b ramp available for purchase somewhere...between myself, Freeplay40, Steve Young or Marco. I consider this a bit of a milestone in my pinball career. Its a good time for cheesy pinball!!

Eventually Steve Young will run out of his NOS stuff, but I'll redo it as that time comes.

20220705_183714 (resized).jpg

Let there be light on my Sinbad. Thanks to La4s for the bulbs!

IMG_3809 (resized).jpg

I'm officially in the club. Just picked up a barn fresh black hole complete with a whole set of rotten connectors.

Repining the interconnect brought most of the controlled lights to life and the machine will cycle thru a game. A few switches do not register and a few coils do not work and the sound board just cycles attract mode voice. The connectors are so roached on this thing I'm going to wait until my order comes in from docent to continue troubleshooting.

PXL_20220721_012533543.jpg

Congrats, that's a heck of a find. What kind of condition is the rest of the game in?

Good enough for the girls I go with.

PXL_20220726_234710580.jpg

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Wow, great score!

Just got the new Hot Shots and Excalibur ramps in and they look gorgeous. Thanks again!

Well I am now a member of this club. Picked up a Cleopatra yesterday. First pinball machine ever. I was a bit nervous about the purchase as I couldn't get the backbox open to look at the main board. But to my surprise not a bit of corrosion from the battery. The main board looks brand new. I am hopeful that I will be able to work through the MANDATORY fixes on the http://www.pinrepair.com/sys1/ site and keep the original system boards going as long as I can.

I will post more pictures as I get it put back together.

At this point I am in preservation mode... and a little bit of mouse poop removal mode and maybe a little bit of vacuuming out broken tempered glass mode.....

Couple of questions.
1. Is there a good post or instructions on how to seal / preserve the back glass?
2. Anyone have any 27" Gottlieb legs that would go with this game that they would be willing to sell and ship to Colorado?
3. Any other recommendations or things I should do beyond the mandatory list mentioned above before I turn on the game.

Thanks,
Keith

BackGlass (resized).jpg

no_acid (resized).jpg

Joes classic arcade has a series on Gottlieb system one. He may have cleopatra in his Playlists.

That’s really nice, enjoy the adventure of system 80 lol. Can’t lie wish I found that.

Yep I have watched Joes video on the Cleopatra. He did a whole lot of repining and corrosion clean up. Looks like our playfield is worn out in almost the same place as his.

Posted this in the tech forum and received no replies. Any help is appreciated…

Haunted House outhole solenoid isn't energizing. Every thing else plays fine when I manually eject the ball. The out hole switch is fine as it ends a game and resets the lower drops when the ball drains.
In fact as long as the ball is on the out hole switch it cycles through the reset process and stops when I remove the ball - so I know it is good.
Coil Ohms are good, grounding the coil activates it.
Tested Q59 it was good. I replaced it anyway. I can activate the coil from Q59 so I know the wiring is good. I also checked the relevant traces to make sure my soldering was good.
I have continuity from Q59 to the MPU board beyond the connector, so I know the connectors and traces are good to right before U6- 6532-3.
I reseated U4 U5 and U6. All legs looked OK.
Still nothing.
Did I miss anything along the way or is it time for a new 6532 or board repair/new board? I don't have a probe and never used one.
This machine has had the connectors re done recently and the grounding work recommended in pinwiki.

A3J4 pin 9 is the ground return for Sol 9. If it isn't a good ground the coil won't work. The reason grounding the tab works is you supplied another path to ground. You should be able to test this with a DMM from the emiter on Q59 to the ground on the bottom board.

The Top Hole Sol 1 shares this ground. Any issues with it?

Did you also do the driver board ground upgrades?
That will tie all the gound connection to the board.
That results in a massive 16 ground connections to the board.

I thought it was on the Pinwiki page, but it isn't.
I will attach the pdf file here...

Peter

Gottlieb_System-80_Driver_board_Ground_update.pdf

The last tech that worked on this machine did a lot of grounding work and tied all the boards to additional ground points in the head, but I'll have to double check to see if he did the on-board items in your pdf.

However, Sol #1 & #9 use the same ground and #1, the cellar kickout, works fine in both test and when playing. The only other solenoid that isn't working is #8, the knocker, and I haven't investigated that yet since I didn't think it was related.

If I need to do these upgrades what type/gauge of wire do you recomend?

I don't know what gauge (size) wire is in your country.
I used a small wire type (used in an UTP cable AWG 24?) as it will not carry much current.
It is just a backup ground connection, not a main ground wire.
Just like some of the board traces....

Would someone mind posting the backglass dimensions for tx sector?? Thank you.

Can you verify the emmiter is actually connected to ground? If it is we need to find a way to prove the mpu can fire it

Swapped the 6532 chips around and out hole works, but new funky behavior started. So buying a new one. thanks for the advice.

Good morning guys and gals! Guess we should join this club. Since hubby bought first Gottlieb, that seems to be almost all he buys now. Latest we have picked up is Robowar, should have it in about a week. The games are solid and fun to play. Don’t know much about under the playfield but will learn over time.

Dawn

How is your Gottlieb Spirit?

Robo-War isn’t just one of the best System 80B games, I think it’s easily one of the best solid state games from that whole era. A true players game with heaps of strategy.

It’s dead simple too. You won’t have to pull the playfield much on it once it’s gone through. Make sure the drops all score and reset properly.

The left ramp shot isn’t designed to be makeable from a trapped ball on the right flipper. It needs a rebound shot with gathered momentum. Otherwise, multiball will be too easily obtained.

Enjoy it!