I recently picked up a diamond lady that was missing a power supply. I was lucky enough to find one, and I installed it last night. I checked the voltages, and have 12 volts going in and 5 volts coming out, so it seems to be doing its job. With that said, the game turns on and everything lights up solid, but it doesn't go into attract mode or start a game. I checked the slam tilt in the coin door and it seems fine. I checked the voltages going to the cpu and they seem fine. When powered on there is nothing shown on the displays. Any suggestions on things to test next? I do have a good friend who is knowledgeable that is helping me out through videochats, but thought I'd ask here too.

Ball (s) in the trough?

Thanks for the suggestion, I never knew that could be a reason for the issue. I do have the two balls in the trough, but will double check once I'm home to make sure they aren't sitting funny or anything like that.

sixtyfourbits you says when you start the game (power on) you see the lights flashing but no display ? The display connectors can have a false connection.
When you power on there should be display illumination.
May be you can add credits.. you should here the coin sound..
If you do and there are balls , push start and the music should begin. If still no display check connectors .. sytem80b is connector trouble..

Keep us posted
FTN_Ferry

Thanks for the reply. I should clarify that when I power it on, the GI and inserts light up solid, no flashing / attract mode. The display does not light at all.
I tried pressing start but there was nothing. I feel my next step is to figure out what is preventing it from going into attract mode, and then from there getting the game to start.

Speaking about Diamond Lady..

My dad has one , and it had a problem with the top kicker.
It would not kick the ball out.

Tested the coil (it has permanent power on one side, and neative connection is made through the board) by looking what side is connected to the popbumper board and connect it shortly to negative.. it should pop ! But 80% it didn't. But voltage is present on the live side..
So changed out a kicker coil with one from my Big House.
Checked all wiring and repinned connection. At this it looked better and solved.. only for 1 weak..

But looking closely to the manual I checked from the power side.. so started with the fuse. ..

Problem found !! The fuse did not clamp in firmly
It has burn marks, causing high resistance and therefore loss of power.

Cleaned fuse , adjusted fuse clips.. problem kicker solved..

FTN_FERRY

Does the soundboard has a flashing red led.. or is is it not flashing..

If not flashing, steady lights , no display, probably no 'clunk' at power up.. it seems to be a mpu problem..
Does the mpu has corrosion on the board where the battery is/was?

FTN_FERRY

That’s interesting. First power up with the power supply in it was solid, and after playing around and testing more things it’s blinking now. Which is it supposed to be? Thanks in advance.
I should add that it’s battery was removed at some point and a remote one was wired on.

Double post

Sounds to me like the MPU is not booting. I had a similar issue with my Spiderman. For me, it was one of the RIOTs U4,U5,or U6 I can't remember which one.
Also, how's the MPU corrosion situation?

I haven't found any corrosion on any of the boards yet, but I'll take a closer look again after work. I'll also look into the RIOTs u4, u5, and u6.
Thanks for the suggestion.

Edit: I'm thinking I'll send the board away to get fixed. I was recommended someone who has a great track record of repairing all makes and types of boards, and was quoted a very fair price. Fixing a system 80b mpu is a bit above my head, so thought this would be the best route for me. Thanks to everyone here for the advice and suggestions!

Excited about this one. It's one of my favorite 80b's.

20220529_170339 (resized).jpg

Gottlieb pinballs are very sensitive when it comes to the 5 volts. Adjust the pot on the power supply to about 5.2 volts or try to adjust slowly until the display comes on.

Hello everyone,
I'm getting above my pay grade trying to sort out a Hollywood Heat, and figured I'd jump on here and see if anyone can point me in some kind of a direction.

Game currently turns on, Neither display turns on. I can not start a game, but the flippers / slings all work, even without a game being started. Half the time when the game turns on there is a bunch of static from the speakers, the other half is silence. Right now that's about all i can get the game to do.

Until recently the game was working (minus the bottom display) It had all sorts of issues when i bought, but I cleaned up / re-seated all the connectors, did all of the grounding in the bottom of the cabinet, and added the ground in the wire harness. That had me up and running until now.

But now I'm not sure where to start digging or what to even check. Checked all the grounds mods I did, and re-seated the connectors again with no change.

Let me know if you have any thoughts. I'm still an amateur when it comes to tracking issues down. Thanks in advance.

Reproduction backglass for Devil's Dare made by Coos. Anyone see something special?

IMG_4600 (resized).jpg

Seems to be more beings populating the backglass than there is in the original ?

Check the power supply. Ensure you have 5 volts DC outputting, as it supplies the displays and the MPU. The pins on the power supply are notorious for cold solder joints (cracks in the soldered connection). This is an easy fix, as you simply reflow solder to all the pin connections on the backside of the printed circuit board (PCB).

And if you do not have the manual with schematics, you will need to pick one up. Steve Young at Pinball Resource can sell you one.

Proto sexy version.

I appreciate the insight. I’ll see what I find.

Coos took the sexy Devilines from the proto backglass and added them to the production backglass. They can stay as far as I am concerned

Tame by todays standards but Gottlieb wasn't thrilled about them.

Nice touch those little Shedevils.
A combination of the pre-production glass and the regular glass.

so i replaced my Alien Star board with a full Rottendog set from PBL since i had no sound. It worked fine for a couple of day but yesterday the game froze, and when power cycling "1" is stuck on the display and nothing boots.
I noticed that the saucer kicker was stuck on, so i assume it means solenoid 1 is stuck? Is that just replacing the transistor or is there more to it? The coil was pretty warm too though it moves fine so i am not sure it is blown?

replaced the coil and the transistor, still the same pb... urgh

Picked up a Genie. The boards were replaced with a Flippp board.

Game wont start. Displays say to check some coils and the out hole. Which i didnt get around to before bed. What am I going to be looking for? Burnt diodes, busted wires…?

Guy said it worked at one time…it lights up. Just wont start the game.

Any guidance would be appreciated.

A4D4EDA6-B98E-40CB-8368-5955DB0E740B (resized).jpeg

Following pinwiki. I’ve got ~5v at all of the pins on the J1 connector. But measuring across C1 capacitor I get 12v-13v. Which is double what it should be. So it seems like I could have a bad voltage regulator and/or capacitor.

On a side note the pins on the daughter board are looking pretty rough . I’ve heard that this board can be the cause of a lot of issues.

FC79BC7E-5DF5-42AB-A175-992E3AF333FD (resized).jpeg

The issues are usually cracked solder on the header pins, and people ripping out eyelets, through holes, and traces when removing on the main cpu board.

Be aware there are 2 versions of these daughterboards/piggybacks. At earlier system80B boards, these are single sided boards and these are the ones which develops problems like cracked solder joints. Later, Gottlieb changed them to dual sided boards with plated holes. These are much stronger and rarely develop problems. Verify this before removing a daughter board / piggyback. As Slochar mentioned, they are hard to remove and the risk of damaging traces and plated holes at the cpu board when done without proper equipment and experience is high.

I am looking to start manufacturing and selling the edge connector housing used in System 1 through Syetm 80B machines. However, I need to get a senes of which connectors are the most needed. Send me a PM and let me know which ones you would be interested in.

EdgeConn1 (resized).jpg

EdgeConn2 (resized).jpg

EdgeConn3 (resized).jpg

EdgeConn4 (resized).jpg

EdgeConn5 (resized).jpg

EdgeConn6 (resized).jpg

EdgeConn7 (resized).jpg

EdgeConn8 (resized).jpg

I've needed to replace A1J6 on every single one of my Sys80 games.

Thanks for the response.

Anybody have issues sourcing the A1J5 and A3J1 connectors going between the CPU and Driver boards. I have seen the hack using JAMMA connectors, but they look really ugly (IMHO).

You might have noticed I have also included the wire coding for each connection on the back of each connector. Useful or not??? I am trying to decide if it is worth the effort.

I think, honestly, Every single one of these is useful to somebody, but I think the ones that have been susceptible to battery damage are front and center.

I really like the idea of having the voltages and codes printed on the sides.

I replaced all of these when I installed a all in one board.

A1J7
A1J2
A1J3
A1J6
A3J5
A3J4
A3J3
A3J2
A2J1
A2J3

I agree that the Jamma hack for the MPU>Driver inter-board harness looks ugly. As this harness isn't physically attached to the game it may be also be missing completely.... so I'll put a vote in for:

A1J5
A3J1

Having them all available would be a great option as well!

Good luck and thank you

I would be be interested in purchasing every connector that you have shown for system 80 through 80b. I try to get rid of every IDC style connector in these pins.

I would be interested in multiple sets for system 80/80B connectors depending on the price per connector.

The text on the connectors is a nice touch, but not necessary if it substantially increases the price.

If there is anything that can be done to adjust the mpu/driverboard connectors so they don't require the bifurcated pins would be great.

Not sure what you mean "bifurcated". The connector housing is designed for the standard Molex 08-52-0072 crimp edge connectors.

Screenshot_20220612-110146 (resized).png

Not all of them. The MPU to driver double connector (and one other) takes the unobtainium 08-03-0304.

The double sided edge connector from the MPU to Driver Board use an obsolete pin.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/08-03-0304

Use a Jamma connector like these : https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002516823200.htm

Thanks for the link. This is a great alternative.

I would prefer a connector that is closer to the original.

Interesting. The original System 1 MPU-Driver interconnect used the 08-50-0106 pins, along with all of the other Molex single-sided card edge connectors. These are tin plated brass and are subject metal fatigue. There is another version of the pins made from tin plated phospahte bronze and they are harder, have better corrosion resistance and resist metal fatigue better. The part number is 08-52-0072. I suspect this is the best option for System 80 MPU-Driver interconnect, and stick with the Molex single-sided card edge connectors.

I don't think the 08-52-0072 pins fit in system80 in mpu/driver interconnect. This is also a double sided connector so the single edge will not work.

For System 80, I agree completely. I am going to try and design a double-sided connector housing that will fit the 08-52-0072 pins. Anybody see any issues with this approach?

I would think this is possible. The bifurcated pins are slightly longer, and have more surface area on the tang that contects the pcb.

Just another thought/suggestion. Possibly add the windows so the pins can be easily removed by depressing the tab on the back of the pin. Similar to what molex does on their KK series housings?

I really like the work so far. This will be a great resource for all the warn-out housings and pins.

x

Just to update since I last posted. Yesterday I finally got Diamond Lady to boot up and play!
I first had to find a power source for it.
Then I sent the MPU away to get tested/fixed. The gentleman who fixed it did a fantastic job, and did the following:
- Replaced R8 1 x 180 ohm, Replaced VR1 1 x 1N5225
- Replaced U4 1 x R6532P, Replaced EPROM Daughter Board
- 1 x Versatile System 80 / 80A / 80B EPROM Adapter Board
- Installed Lithium Battery Upgrade Kit & Tested 100% OK
Then I went through and tested/checked all the fuses on the underside of the playfield, as well as at the bottom of the cabinet. 3 were blown, and quite a few spots had the wrong size of fuse in them. So once I put properly sized, working fuses in where needed, it booted up and played a game!
I still have some work to do, as I have one target bank, the kickback, and the one upper kicker not working. But overall I'm very excited for the progress made so far.

I put some thought into creating a double sided connector housing (A1-J4, A3-J1 and A3-J3) that would use the more common 08-52-0072 crimp connector. I have plans for the polarizing key that can be plugged in where needed. Here are some images of the System 80 A3-J1 connector I designed. The connector would have the be squeeezed a litle when it is pushed through the hole in the back, but it is do-able.
Front of A3-J1
Back of A3-J1

The one potential problem I see is the contacts from opposite sides will touch each other when the connector doesn't have a board plugged into it.
For A1-J4 and A3-J1
1 - Ground shorts to Ground - A
2 - +5 VDC shorts to +5 VDC - B
3 - DS2 shorts to DS1 - C
4 - LD3 shorts to DS4 - D
5 - LD4 shorts to DS3 - E
6 - LD2 shorts to DS6 - F
7 - LD1 shorts to DS5 - H
,,,
,,,
21 - Knocker shorts to Sound 8 - Y
22 - 3rd Counter shorts to Sound 4 - Z
23 - 2nd Counter shorts to Sound 2 - A*
24 - 1st Counter shorts to Sound 1 - B*

Shorting 1 to A and 2 to B is no problem, but I am not really sure if the rest would 1) be a serious problem and smoke something on one of the boards, 2) just be a minor problem and produce erratic behaviour oe 3) there would be no problem. I suspect scenario 1 applies to A3-J3. Does anybody know the electronics well enough to offer their opinion?

There is a simple solution. DON'T TURN THE POWER ON WHEN ONE OF THE DOUBLE SIDED CONNECTORS IS NOT PLUGGED IN, or PLUG AN INSULATOR INTO UNCONNECTED CONNECTOR BEFORE TURNING ON THE POWER.

La4s any comments? Others?

Its inevitable that someone will, at some point, turn on the pin with one of these connectors unplugged, particularly when troubleshooting.
While I applaud your efforts you are introducing an extra and unnecessary hazard which I don't think is acceptable.
Perhaps a re-design is in order.